Matt865

Greetings, I apologise for the little information. The vehicle is a 2008 BMW 320d, displaying warning lights on the dashboard, lacking parking sensors, and indicating a DPF engine management issue with a message of lower power; yet, it operates OK. It does not have satellite navigation. The vehicle operates OK; nevertheless, warning lights activate intermittently, and it sometimes stalls. I own a diagnostic reader, although no errors are detected. I have performed a DPF regeneration, but it continues to malfunction.

Greetings, everyone. My BMW is exhibiting peculiar behaviour, such as random dashboard lights activating without any stalls. Could this be related to the head unit, if that is the correct term?

The only issue is that I am now midway through the replacement process (the old rusted subframe has been removed, and the new is partially constructed) and BlackC55 (the Mercedes dealer) has told me that without a comprehensive corrosion inspection history documented in the service book, Mercedes would not consider the matter at all. I believe the subframe problem ought to have been classified as a recall item; but, consider the financial implications for the ostensibly kindly Mercedes that we are familiar with. I will publish some text and images once completion.

Hello everyone, may I provide a few ideas? Indeed, the 'parking pawl' is a mechanism that secures the gears from rotation. Many people depend on this mechanism to secure the vehicle while parked on an incline; nevertheless, it was not designed to support the weight of the automobile and may sometimes fail. The proper approach on an incline is to engage the foot brake, activate the parking brake, shift to neutral, release the foot brake to allow the parking brake assembly to take up slack, and then shift to park. Vehicle immobilised with no stress on the parking pawl/pin. It is OK to use Park mode while on a level surface. A 'thump' while shifting gears may indicate that the rubber couplings in the prop shaft have stiffened over time. Replacing these components may resolve the issue; however, it is neither a cost-effective nor straightforward solution, since each unit costs around £40 to £50, and considerable disassembly of the underbelly is necessary for removal and replacement. I will replace these components on my vehicle as part of the rear subframe and suspension arms refurbishment job I am now doing.

formerly priced at £99 for any updates, regardless of warranty status or recall work.

It is not just concerned with the worth of the alterations. The insurance company may categorise an individual who has made certain modifications as a 'boy racer' and hence a greater risk, which I am convinced the original poster is not.

The configuration was same on the VW T4 Transporter; the driver's side was 'landscape', while the nearside was 'portrait'.

A superior option involves cutting a piece of metal from a discarded beverage or soup can to use as a shim for the battery post. Adjust the strip's width to match the height of the battery post. Adjust the length to accommodate the space required between the post and the terminal.

The battery terminals are conical. Ensure that the terminal is positioned at the widest section of the post; otherwise, it will not achieve complete tightness. Occasionally, it is necessary to loosen the terminal nut and slightly open the terminal to enable it to descend completely down the post.

This implies that all front sensors are nonfunctional, indicating a potential malfunction in the connection to the control unit, potentially a damaged cable. The reason for the bumper replacement is not specified, although it is likely due to a frontal collision, suggesting that damage may be concealed and not limited to the bumper itself.

A fractured nozzle holder cap may result in leakage at the injector foot, perhaps leading to subsequent black death. Rear wells are inferior due to the drain line's positioning towards the rear of the engine, which I suspect is somewhat slanted.

OTA updates fails so much on last time

I would not engage in such endeavour. Oil has a far longer lifespan than 30,000 miles, therefore £560 is too high. Conserve your finances; the issue lies not with the oil. I operated a 530d equipped with a six-speed automatic gearbox. Sytners conducted a recall, disconnected the battery cable for many hours, and upon retrieval, the vehicle operated much better. As previously said, just drive it for over 500 miles, and unless it is severely damaged, the gearbox will self-correct.

Same problem on e-class

thanks for the link

50% chance excluding the possibility of the coin falling on its edge

If it is at 0V, I believe you are expending your efforts in vain. The battery will not recuperate. While it may ultimately display a reading of 12V, its functionality will be compromised, resulting in little capacity.

Appears to be a genuine detriment. Adore it 😀

As stated in pages 8-44 to 8-47 of the handbook, the fuse responsible for the baggage power outlet is labelled "Power Outlet 1" and can be found in the fuse box located in the engine compartment. It is marked in yellow for easy identification. Power Outlet 2 is located next to it and serves as the front power outlet. Both fuses have a rating of 20 amperes.

Does anybody have any ideas?

That does not seem to be the underlying reason. Thank you, however. Are there any further concepts or notions?

Thank you, I will attempt that and then provide you with an update.

While I cannot be completely positive, there is indeed a possibility. What would be the significance of that?

Issue with BMW 3 Series Now please bear with me since I am not familiar with the technical aspects of an automobile. I own a 2014 BMW 3 Series diesel car with a manual gearbox, and it has lately been experiencing issues. The issue initially arose during gear shifting, particularly when transitioning from 3rd to 4th gear. It gave the sensation of unintentionally engaging the brakes, although this occurred only on a few occasions. Subsequently, while driving on the motorway, the vehicle abruptly decelerated from 90mph to 40mph, resembling the effect of an emergency brake or engine braking at excessively high revolutions per minute. Currently, the issue persists consistently anytime I exceed a speed of 40mph, to the extent that it gives the sensation of being on the verge of losing control. The manual gearbox has not been shifted or impacted, and there are no fault messages or dashboard lights after connecting the computer. Has anybody encountered this phenomenon or had any insights on its nature?

I fail to get this trend – the purpose of DRLs is to enhance your visibility, so why would one choose to lower it? Style takes precedence over practicality.