Matt865

Indeed, I have come to the realisation that my photograph contains an error, namely, the presence of vacuum lines. However, with relation to my issue with the Illumination, I would very appreciate any advise or guidance you may have to provide.

Hello The lighting of my W202 1998 instrument cluster, including the window buttons, gears, and centre dash, is not functioning. They simultaneously departed. All lights and fuses are in satisfactory condition. Is it possible that the issue lies with either the Dimmer switch, which offers adjustments of 3-2-1, or the Main headlight switch? I am sceptical that the issue lies with the lighting control relay/module, given all other components are functioning properly. This is a photograph of the back side of my dimmer switch, which is positioned next to the main headlight switch. The dimmer switch belongs to a W202 1998 C180 AUTO model. Is it possible that the issue lies with the Purple and pink tube/wire that is connected to the Dimmer switch? We would much appreciate any guidance or recommendations.

Rules are regulations that insurers enforce with authority.

This is applicable to the W205 model. The auxiliary battery of the W222 is located in the trunk on the right side, behind the panel.

The voltage converter is located next to the auxiliary battery, positioned below the carpet inside the passenger footwell. To uncover the huge plastic cover, just pull back the carpet slightly and you will find it secured by three nuts. To access the converter, just remove the three nuts that secure the cover. Once the cover is pulled back, you will find the converter fastened with a single 8mm nut. I trust that this information is beneficial.

This issue pertains to the auxiliary battery, rather than the primary vehicle battery. Recently, I had the same malfunction on my C250 W205. Purchased a voltage converter from the online marketplace Amazon and successfully repaired it without any difficulty. The auxiliary battery on the W205 is located in the footwell area beneath the carpet. This seems to be a prevalent defect. Below is the provided hyperlink. https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51La0XV6YWL._AC_UL232_SR232,232_.jpg Although there are more affordable alternatives available, the feedback on them is unfavourable.

Unfortunately, the pulley was not properly aligned and was forcefully attached.

Valid observation

It seems like the snout and one side have been rounded off, but the photo does not clearly depict this. The pulley was misaligned and caused damage by digging into it. I installed a replacement part that subsequently failed at the key way, which was only discovered as a result of an oil leak. Is it OK to use a new pulley and seal with a torque setting of 220 + 90 degrees?

Indeed, it seems that the process of removing the cam cover to get access to the cam shaft sprockets is fairly laborious.

I was expecting that the half moon, positioned in the shaft, may be dislodged from under the sprocket.

Is it possible to remove the half moon type without having to remove the chain sprocket?

Greetings, everyone. Can the crankshaft woodruff key be extracted without having to remove the crank sprocket? The key was broken when attempting to install an aftermarket pulley. Thank you.

I have replaced the master cylinder, and the situation remains same, my friend. As I have previously said, while I am driving, it functions perfectly.

The pedal is experiencing bottoming out, where it reaches the green zone when stationary and then gradually diminishes to zero. This issue was identified by the MOT tester.

Their functionality is flawless, but they fail to meet the requirements for a MOT certification.

I have previously encountered similar issue, my friend. However, my vehicle did not pass its MOT due to this problem. Consequently, I am uncertain about the appropriate course of action, since the issue persists when I am driving.

Yes, the task has also been completed. I performed a bench bleeding procedure on the cylinder, installed it, and then eliminated air from the pipes leading to the ABS unit. I thoroughly examined and bled all the nipples in the right sequence, ensuring that there was no air present in any of the fluid lines. Despite these efforts, the issue remains unchanged. When I am driving the vehicle, the brakes function flawlessly. However, when I come to a halt and press the brake pedal, it remains up for a brief moment before gradually descending.

Apologies, I intended to say "falling away".

Yes, the bench bleeding process was performed.

Thank you for your brilliant input, buddy. I will examine it again tomorrow, specifically focusing on the whole vacuum system. Additionally, I have already tested the vehicle on the brake tester at the garage, and it seems that just the rear brakes are experiencing fading. Do you have any other information that might provide insight into a potential solution?

Do you own any schematics illustrating the configuration of the vacuum pipes? Thank you.

Thank you, friend. I will verify that.

Hello everyone, I am experiencing a significant issue with the braking system in my estate. While driving, the brakes appear to function properly. However, when the vehicle is stationary and I apply pressure to the brake pedal, it gradually loses effectiveness. I have already had a new master cylinder installed and the system has been thoroughly flushed and replenished with fresh fluid. Despite these measures, the problem persists. The ABS unit does not indicate any faults. I am curious if there is anything I may have overlooked or if anyone has any suggestions regarding the potential cause of this issue.