Matt865

I assume they would either provide complimentary items or suggest what to get.

Inquire at a nearby auto repair shop. They will own the accurate tape.

Approximately twenty years ago, I had the spark plugs changed by a Vauxhall main dealer on a Saturday morning. The technician was assisting me directly due to the absence of service advisers, resulting in a very peaceful atmosphere. The technician recommended that I observe in the workshop if I choose to do so. From the moment he opened the hood to the moment he closed it, it took 10 minutes, despite speaking. However, the standard time shown in the book and invoice was 60 minutes.

This also applies to time. Main dealers charge based on "book" time, which is the duration Mercedes specifies for completing a work, rather than the actual time taken.

Regrettably, I am unaware of the potential expense. It is likely that the container was not filled to the proper level after servicing, particularly if there was a greater level recorded a month earlier. It is advisable to add modest amounts of liquid to ensure that you do not exceed the recommended capacity.

Some owners report to authorised dealers that their oil level is not at the maximum mark; it should be at the midpoint between the minimum and maximum levels five minutes after the engine has been turned off, with the engine oil at operating temperature. Your snapshot indicates that the level is below the minimum, which is unacceptable, particularly after a 60-mile journey. When was the most recent time you inspected it prior to the service? I am inquiring about the possibility of a sensor malfunction. When adding more, do it gradually and check the level again to prevent overfilling, since it is easier to add than to remove. Avoid adding more than 250 ml or 500 ml at a time until you confirm the sensor is working.

Due to the recent hot weather, with temperatures in the late 20s, I need the air conditioning set on Low. The supporters are making quite a racket. Inside the automobile, everything is tranquil and silent, yet outside, it resembles a jet aircraft getting ready for departure.

The configuration seems to be identical to that of the w211 and w219, to be honest. I fail to comprehend any reason for it to be dissimilar. 👍

Autodoc

Within the black box, there is a motor and pump. To determine whether the pump is providing air, you must detach the pipes and activate the motor. In my situation, I was required to unpack the box and dismantle the motor and pump due to the motor's malfunction.

Have you verified the pump's output when the motor is operational? There may be a malfunction with the pump or a leakage of air in the pipes. The pump will consist of four chambers and will use little rubber diaphragms. It is possible that one of these diaphragms has malfunctioned. I hypothesise that the issue may be attributed to a pipe that is allowing liquid to escape. However, I recommend examining the output of the pump as a first step.

Thank you for providing this great information! It seems that the component is really integrated into the printed circuit board (PCB). The traditional approach for repairing the earlier Mercedes cluster lighting rheostat is not applicable in this situation. The only viable options are to either replace the cluster or get it fixed. Can we exclude the possibility of a defective light control relay in the fuse box if the issue is limited to the malfunctioning of cluster lights, central dash lights, and gear-window switch lights? Alternatively, may it potentially be the underlying issue?

Yesterday, I removed the cluster from the vehicle and discovered that there is no Potentiometer/rheostat for the +/- adjustment. I then reinstalled the cluster. Could it be conceivable that one of the relays in the fuse box is defective? The lighting on the cluster fuse is satisfactory.

Indeed, I have come to the realisation that my photograph contains an error, namely, the presence of vacuum lines. However, with relation to my issue with the Illumination, I would very appreciate any advise or guidance you may have to provide.

Hello The lighting of my W202 1998 instrument cluster, including the window buttons, gears, and centre dash, is not functioning. They simultaneously departed. All lights and fuses are in satisfactory condition. Is it possible that the issue lies with either the Dimmer switch, which offers adjustments of 3-2-1, or the Main headlight switch? I am sceptical that the issue lies with the lighting control relay/module, given all other components are functioning properly. This is a photograph of the back side of my dimmer switch, which is positioned next to the main headlight switch. The dimmer switch belongs to a W202 1998 C180 AUTO model. Is it possible that the issue lies with the Purple and pink tube/wire that is connected to the Dimmer switch? We would much appreciate any guidance or recommendations.

Rules are regulations that insurers enforce with authority.

This is applicable to the W205 model. The auxiliary battery of the W222 is located in the trunk on the right side, behind the panel.

The voltage converter is located next to the auxiliary battery, positioned below the carpet inside the passenger footwell. To uncover the huge plastic cover, just pull back the carpet slightly and you will find it secured by three nuts. To access the converter, just remove the three nuts that secure the cover. Once the cover is pulled back, you will find the converter fastened with a single 8mm nut. I trust that this information is beneficial.

This issue pertains to the auxiliary battery, rather than the primary vehicle battery. Recently, I had the same malfunction on my C250 W205. Purchased a voltage converter from the online marketplace Amazon and successfully repaired it without any difficulty. The auxiliary battery on the W205 is located in the footwell area beneath the carpet. This seems to be a prevalent defect. Below is the provided hyperlink. https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51La0XV6YWL._AC_UL232_SR232,232_.jpg Although there are more affordable alternatives available, the feedback on them is unfavourable.

Unfortunately, the pulley was not properly aligned and was forcefully attached.

Valid observation

It seems like the snout and one side have been rounded off, but the photo does not clearly depict this. The pulley was misaligned and caused damage by digging into it. I installed a replacement part that subsequently failed at the key way, which was only discovered as a result of an oil leak. Is it OK to use a new pulley and seal with a torque setting of 220 + 90 degrees?

Indeed, it seems that the process of removing the cam cover to get access to the cam shaft sprockets is fairly laborious.

I was expecting that the half moon, positioned in the shaft, may be dislodged from under the sprocket.

Is it possible to remove the half moon type without having to remove the chain sprocket?