dave783

I’ve seen a few of these companies pop up recently as long as the payment is actually held somewhere secure and not going straight to them it’s a bit different than just wiring money Still, I’d double check everything like others said

😁

Please tell me if you've been through this or know how to fix it. Car has been on standby for one year

No matter how hard I turn the key, the diesel pressure stays the same. I don't know if this is a malfunction or if I'm just messing up.

In 2003, I owned a BMW e46 320D with six speeds.... On the way to work one day, it suddenly stopped moving. After then, it continues to crank but won't start. Even though diesel is getting to the high pressure diesel pump, the pressure isn't high enough to do much more than flow. The high pressure diesel pump, in-tank diesel pump, and the one beneath the car have all been replaced by myself. My automobile still hasn't gotten over this problem after a whole year. Give me some pointers on how to fix my automobile so it starts up again.

I fail to comprehend the tuner's peculiar behaviour.

Appointed my E93 I enjoy frittering away money for no good reason.

I also checked out your Facebook profile. What a shame your twin isn't a Chester resident. You seem like the ideal individual to provide me a hand.

Your kind words of guidance are greatly appreciated. Near Liverpool and Chester, I am. The first place I went was to a BMW expert. I was offered the option to purchase a new DPF or have it removed for the pitiful sum of £700.

Greetings, everyone Since I'm new to this website, I apologize in advance if this is posted in the incorrect area. As a result, I am completely distraught and hopeless. My 2016 BMW 318d Touring serves as both my personal vehicle and my mode of transportation when I provide end-of-life care as a practitioner and paramedic. When my car was chilly, it began to hesitate, jerk, and stall around two weeks ago. The automobile exhibited none of the aforementioned issues (only when engine was cold) after it was warmed up, and its pulling power was identical to the day I purchased it new. In any case, I was outside a patient's house when it stalled three times and the alarm for the drivetrain turned red. It was determined by a mechanic to be the DPF and an air plausibility code after I had them investigated. A mechanic I took it to for an inspection found no problems with the DPF, but the air intake breather hose was drenched in oil and broke apart in his hands. Two days after I swapped it out, the red drivetrain light went out and was replaced with a yellow light, which indicates reduced performance. Thankfully, I no longer experienced any symptoms, hesitancy, or uncertainty. After two garages (I appreciate you sticking with me thus far), Halfords diagnosed an air leak and told me it was my turbo, but the repair cost £1650, which is out of my price range. Apologies, but I'm not a mechanic. However, I seem to recall reading that the boost hose could pop out due to excessive boost pressure. So as not to appear to be an absolute moron, I only nodded. They claimed it would be a coin flip as to whether it was the turbo or not. I hate to beg, but after a terrible week of worry, I've been to three different garages and could really use some reassurance. No matter how much I wish I were mechanically inclined, the truth is that I am not. On the other hand, I observed that, similar to the previous pipe, the charge pipe that leads into the air intake had fresh oil surrounding its junction (image attached). Back smoke is nonexistent No odd "whistling" coming from the top Exhaust (before the warning light becomes red) It would be really appreciated if you could lend a hand. Air and DPF plausibility codes are being displayed. In exchange for medical advice, I will gladly trade mechanical advice 😉. Once again, I'm really grateful.

As far as I'm concerned, the tires can be shredded since they aren't my current preferred option (I would love a whole set of similar ones). My goal in scheduling gearbox repair for this coming Friday is to finally have the 'thump' out of lower ratios eliminated, a problem that has plagued me with every high-miler I've ever owned.

I want to thank everyone. I was able to get it for free as a buddy of mine had it sitting on his drive for three years and was about to send it for scrap. This antique diesel-powered vehicle has 148k miles on the odometer and is now a weekly commuting route between Nottinghamshire and West London. It starts up with the first turn of the key. I haven't spent enough money on her to make the experience as "finessed" as I would want it to be just yet, but she drives well and when I press the fun pedal, I get the results I desire. Plus, it's completely free of the features that have irritated me in the last several vehicles—for example, lane keep assist, speed sign alert, weariness monitor, etc.—so I can relax and enjoy the ride. Progress: Replaced battery Equip yourself with discs, pads, callipers, and flexi lines. A few tires Concrete manifold Inclusive service Carrier for new driver door handles The other set of items: A code for a remote fob Rear ARB bushes (MOT notice) Change the gearbox fluid. Vac cylinders and lines, as well as new engine mounts Updated audio system with Apple CarPlay compatibility (the original device only had one functional corner) With any luck, the vacuum cylinder will fix the engine's last wobble, and then everything will be fine. Since Turbo is the first, it may be considered later this year.

The X5 was mys at no cost. I rescued it from the scrapyard, restored a few parts, and am now using it every day.

The back sensor on the right or left side? Also, are xenon headlights standard on this vehicle? The sensors on the driver's side are responsible for auto-leveling the headlights.

The additional oil changes are essential. One of my vehicles has had oil changes every 12 months, although only accumulating 1,700 miles. However, I prioritise the MOT and oil and filter replacement while it is on the ramp, with other filters replaced as needed.