Matt865

Vehicle: L405 - Range Rover 2018 Scanned on: 19-02-2024 at 10:10 Tool used: IIDTool BT V4.0 B3907-83 AAM stands for Audio Amplifier Module. Code B1D9F-11 indicates a short circuit to ground in the Engine Speed Input circuit. BCM stands for Body Control Module. U2300-54 (2F) Central Configuration lacks calibration. CHCM stands for Chassis Control Module. C1131-92 (2E) Air Supply - issue with performance or inappropriate operation C1A20-64 (AF) Slow pressure increase during reservoir filling - plausibility failure signal IPC stands for Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module. The code P060A-08 (6C) indicates issues with the Internal Control Module Monitoring Processor Performance related to Bus Signal / Message Failures. TCU stands for Telematic Control Unit Module. U2109-09 (AF) Back-up Battery - Component Failures

The infotainment system and cluster are rebooting every minute. I suspect it may be due to a problem with the auxiliary battery. The car was parked in the garage for four years from 2019 to 2023. A buddy replaced the battery, but the exact actions taken are unknown. A dealer then installed a new battery. The cost to repair the problem is estimated to be above $10,000. I purchased a GAP insurance policy with Breakdown and Theft coverage. Here is the policy code:

The Gap IID tool is unable to read code due to a backup battery problem. I purchased a new one but am unsure of its proper placement.

Hello everyone, I need your assistance, please! I have been looking extensively for the auxiliary battery but have been unable to find it. I opened the side panel of the cargo area as shown in a YouTube video. 2018 Range Rover L405 Thank you!

To accurately check the oil level, remove the dipstick, wipe it clean with a lint-free cloth, reinsert it and then remove it again.

Emphasise the importance of measuring on level ground, as it may significantly affect the result, and ensure that the engine has been switched off for 10 to 15 minutes before taking the measurement. In the past, during the age of forecourt service, dishonest personnel would quickly check the oil level with a dipstick just after the engine was switched off. This deceptive practice would often display a deceptively low reading, pressuring the driver into purchasing oil needlessly. Excessive oil in an engine may be detrimental since it may cause the crank to drop into the sump oil, churning and emulsifying it.

Do you mean a rivet gun?

I assume they would either provide complimentary items or suggest what to get.

Inquire at a nearby auto repair shop. They will own the accurate tape.

Approximately twenty years ago, I had the spark plugs changed by a Vauxhall main dealer on a Saturday morning. The technician was assisting me directly due to the absence of service advisers, resulting in a very peaceful atmosphere. The technician recommended that I observe in the workshop if I choose to do so. From the moment he opened the hood to the moment he closed it, it took 10 minutes, despite speaking. However, the standard time shown in the book and invoice was 60 minutes.

This also applies to time. Main dealers charge based on "book" time, which is the duration Mercedes specifies for completing a work, rather than the actual time taken.

Regrettably, I am unaware of the potential expense. It is likely that the container was not filled to the proper level after servicing, particularly if there was a greater level recorded a month earlier. It is advisable to add modest amounts of liquid to ensure that you do not exceed the recommended capacity.

Some owners report to authorised dealers that their oil level is not at the maximum mark; it should be at the midpoint between the minimum and maximum levels five minutes after the engine has been turned off, with the engine oil at operating temperature. Your snapshot indicates that the level is below the minimum, which is unacceptable, particularly after a 60-mile journey. When was the most recent time you inspected it prior to the service? I am inquiring about the possibility of a sensor malfunction. When adding more, do it gradually and check the level again to prevent overfilling, since it is easier to add than to remove. Avoid adding more than 250 ml or 500 ml at a time until you confirm the sensor is working.

Due to the recent hot weather, with temperatures in the late 20s, I need the air conditioning set on Low. The supporters are making quite a racket. Inside the automobile, everything is tranquil and silent, yet outside, it resembles a jet aircraft getting ready for departure.

The configuration seems to be identical to that of the w211 and w219, to be honest. I fail to comprehend any reason for it to be dissimilar. 👍

Autodoc

Within the black box, there is a motor and pump. To determine whether the pump is providing air, you must detach the pipes and activate the motor. In my situation, I was required to unpack the box and dismantle the motor and pump due to the motor's malfunction.

Have you verified the pump's output when the motor is operational? There may be a malfunction with the pump or a leakage of air in the pipes. The pump will consist of four chambers and will use little rubber diaphragms. It is possible that one of these diaphragms has malfunctioned. I hypothesise that the issue may be attributed to a pipe that is allowing liquid to escape. However, I recommend examining the output of the pump as a first step.

Thank you for providing this great information! It seems that the component is really integrated into the printed circuit board (PCB). The traditional approach for repairing the earlier Mercedes cluster lighting rheostat is not applicable in this situation. The only viable options are to either replace the cluster or get it fixed. Can we exclude the possibility of a defective light control relay in the fuse box if the issue is limited to the malfunctioning of cluster lights, central dash lights, and gear-window switch lights? Alternatively, may it potentially be the underlying issue?

Yesterday, I removed the cluster from the vehicle and discovered that there is no Potentiometer/rheostat for the +/- adjustment. I then reinstalled the cluster. Could it be conceivable that one of the relays in the fuse box is defective? The lighting on the cluster fuse is satisfactory.

Indeed, I have come to the realisation that my photograph contains an error, namely, the presence of vacuum lines. However, with relation to my issue with the Illumination, I would very appreciate any advise or guidance you may have to provide.

Hello The lighting of my W202 1998 instrument cluster, including the window buttons, gears, and centre dash, is not functioning. They simultaneously departed. All lights and fuses are in satisfactory condition. Is it possible that the issue lies with either the Dimmer switch, which offers adjustments of 3-2-1, or the Main headlight switch? I am sceptical that the issue lies with the lighting control relay/module, given all other components are functioning properly. This is a photograph of the back side of my dimmer switch, which is positioned next to the main headlight switch. The dimmer switch belongs to a W202 1998 C180 AUTO model. Is it possible that the issue lies with the Purple and pink tube/wire that is connected to the Dimmer switch? We would much appreciate any guidance or recommendations.

Rules are regulations that insurers enforce with authority.

This is applicable to the W205 model. The auxiliary battery of the W222 is located in the trunk on the right side, behind the panel.