IrvesBMW

Greetings, I own a BMW 116i, which is a model from 2012 and belongs to the F21 series. An really troublesome automobile. I have successfully resolved the majority of my oil leaks and have seen positive outcomes. Subsequently, there was a misfire detected in cylinder 4. Replaced the spark plugs and coils, however the issue persists in the same cylinder. Disassembled the manifold and saw an accumulation of oil in the combustion chamber of cylinder 4. It is worth mentioning that I saw the presence of oil on the spark plug, both on its surface and around the threads. It seems that the gasket on my valve rocket cover broke, causing a leak into the spark plug. The spark plug was found to be loosely attached and had oil accumulation at the tip, with visible oil present in the surrounding hole. Could the presence of oil in the combustion chamber be solely attributed to oil leakage from the spark plug? I want to do a compression test. I hope that the issue does not include a damaged seal inside the combustion chamber, since I would then have to repair it myself. I have no prior experience in fixing a combustion chamber, which makes me apprehensive about doing so. While I understand that the test will assist me in determining the issue, is it conceivable that the spark plug just facilitated the leakage? Regarding compression testing, I have seen that some automobiles allow for the removal of the fuel line fuse and ignition fuse to facilitate the test. Does this car possess these specific fuses, or are there other processes that need to be followed? Appreciation is extended for your kind gesture.

I would refrain from acquiring a new vehicle that is unsatisfactory. It may be advisable to disengage and seek for an other vehicle. The trader must possess somebody with coding proficiency. My concern is that if you retrieve the automobile and discover that the problem is not only a code issue, you will be left with the car and will have to arrange for it to be fixed or returned. Thank you.

Yes, coding is a very straightforward task that a skilled individual should be capable of doing. Wishing you success.

Did they using authentic BMW software for coding?

The object is devoid of any dirt or rust, and moreover, it has previously been ruled out as the source of the malfunction. (It is worth mentioning that for the e90, you just need to replace the ring, not the hub.) The problem seems to be an electrical malfunction, since it is resolved when the vehicle is starting with a fully charged battery and only happens again after the car has been parked for many hours (which is why I replaced the battery). I am presently contemplating if the starting motor, or another component, is responsible for a voltage decrease and disrupting the computer during a cold start-up. The next step I suggest is to start the car's ignition and thereafter reset the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) computer by removing the fuse. Then, observe whether the issue persists without any problems.

I am now experiencing difficulties specifically with the right wheel speed sensor and the steering wheel position sensor. There are no instances of low voltage or any other diagnostic trouble code (DTC) computer faults.

Seeking assistance from someone knowledgeable. I am experiencing difficulties with the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System), DTC (Dynamic Traction Control), and other related systems on my 2005 E90 320D. The issue originated from the occurrence of front right ABS sensor problems. I have replaced the sensor, inspected the reluctor ring, examined the wires, and performed other routine diagnostic procedures. Now, let me explain. When I start the vehicle in the morning after it has been parked overnight and begin driving, the dashboard illuminates with several warning lights like a Christmas tree, and the ABS/DTS system becomes deactivated. Upon inspection, the codes indicate a problem with the front right ABS sensor, namely related to difficulties with the power supply, lack of signal, or implausible readings. Additionally, I have intermittent occurrences of a steering wheel position sensor error, as well as infrequent malfunctions of the speedometer. Operate the vehicle over a substantial distance, preferably 20-30 miles or more. Bring the vehicle to a halt, remove the key from the ignition, and then start the engine once again. As a result, all the lights will cease to illuminate, and there will be no more complications for the remainder of the trip, even if I take a little pause lasting 3 to 4 hours. When I leave the vehicle overnight, the issue reoccurs and persists until I take the car for an extended drive. Replaced the battery because of its age and slightly reduced voltage. The problem persists, but I am certain that it is caused by a power issue that is disrupting the computer, or maybe the battery backup for memory is malfunctioning. Does anybody have any suggestions?

It is necessary to replace the Teflon seals and decoupling element while reinstalling the injectors.

In such scenario, I would expect a potential problem with the injectors, since the n43 injectors are known to be of subpar quality. Remove the spark plugs and inspect their condition to see whether they are covered with soot. It is advisable to check the items the next day to see whether any of them are also moist. Did you install an authentic low pressure sensor?

The issue with the 2AAF code on our e91 was resolved by replacing the low pressure sensor located on the fuel piping on the right-hand side of the rocker cover. I do not believe that is the root cause of the misfire on cylinder 3 problem. I suggest attempting to resolve the issue by exchanging the coil pack with another cylinder and seeing whether the error reoccurs. The issue with the map thermostat is most likely due to a requirement for a replacement thermostat.

Please refrain from installing low-quality accessories such as carbon eyebrows on your vehicle. Although it may provide entertainment when seen on the road, it is important to note that such modifications are considered tacky and associated with a lower social class.

There is no need to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) along with the clutch. It depends on your desired activity and the condition of the item, namely whether it is worn out and showing signs of extreme wear and tear. Upon purchasing my automobile, I discovered that the previous owner had just changed the clutch but not the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF). However, I was dissatisfied with the unpleasant noise emitted by the flywheel. Since I planned to retain the car permanently, I decided to repair the whole assembly once again. If you want to retain ownership of the automobile, it would be more efficient to complete the work once, since the labour costs would remain relatively unchanged, regardless of whether the tasks are performed separately or simultaneously. Why are you reluctant to disclose the mileage of the car?

The probable cause of the bearing sound is the failure of the clutch release bearing. However, if you want to repair the mentioned component, it would be advisable to have a complete set of replacement parts available. Additionally, it may be necessary to replace the clutch and dual-mass flywheel (DMF) based on the mileage of the vehicle and a thorough examination.

It seems that you may need a replacement for your clutch and dual mass flywheel (DMF). What is the current mileage of the vehicle and has the clutch undergone any previous replacements? Where precisely is the vibration occurring?

My E46 car had corrosion on the rear wheel arches, sills, and rear trunk.In addition, there were some minor improvements in various aspects. Both my e90 330d and e92 335d models performed well, surpassing the e46 type body of the previous e series.These may be acquired at a low cost, in fact, at a lower price than the 46 type body.

I agree with the previous comment. The automobile is excellent, albeit it is susceptible to corrosion.

I am located in Worcester. Thank you.

The remapping process has not been carried out yet. I intended to have it done after removing the problematic swirl flaps. However, I am aware that I need to address this issue before considering the remapping procedure. Thank you.

Thank you for your response. I believe it is necessary to scan it with ISTA, as you have suggested. Is there anybody in close proximity to Worcester who would be willing to examine it on my behalf? Thank you once again for the responses.

Thank you for your response. I had my vehicle thoroughly examined using comprehensive diagnostic procedures, since I have a buddy who is a professional mechanic. I am now experiencing issues with the turbo-related electrical system. Specifically, the problem occurs when the system is turned off and then back on again. However, when the start-stop feature is on and the vehicle pauses at a set of lights before starting again, the issue reoccurs.

Thank you for your response. Over the weekend, I thoroughly cleaned the mentioned components, including removing the intake and swirl flaps. Nevertheless, the problem has persisted for around three months.

I am experiencing a problem with my X5 where there is a noticeable decrease in power starting from about 2500rpm. However, when I stop the vehicle and restart it, the issue seems to be resolved. There is no error message log (EML) shown on the dashboard and no information is being shown on the diagnostics. My hypothesis is that the lack of power transfer from the small side turbo to the large turbo is due to a vacuum issue. The small side turbo is equipped with an electronic actuator, which provides initial power. However, when the power is supposed to move to the big turbo, there is no power until the engine is restarted. Currently, I am required to start the vehicle twice before driving, which may have a detrimental impact on the battery. Has anybody encountered this problem before, or am I just experiencing unfortunate circumstances? If there are no diagnostic clues, finding the cause is as difficult as finding a needle in a haystack. Assistance urgently needed.

Please include further details such as the specific engine type, automobile specifications, service history, and the desired pricing.

Inspect all earths/groundings.

It seems that the location I was going to suggest, BW Chip Tune in West London, is quite a distance away from your current location. Have they informed you about the specific diagnostic codes that were retrieved and the precise issue with the turbocharger?