IrvesBMW

Hello, I am inquiring if anybody has had any experience with TDI tuning boxes. I am in finance, therefore a remap is not a viable choice, although the potential power advantages are quite appealing. I was inquiring if anybody has had troubles with them, whether their stats are precise, and if they are worthwhile, etc.

I completed that task, connecting the earth mount on the body to a lift hook on the engine, nevertheless the engine would not start.

Are you proposing to connect a cable from the earth terminal on the passenger side inner wing in the engine compartment to any point on the engine, such as a lift hook, and then attempting to start or jump the vehicle as usual?

Greetings everyone, I want your assistance about the persistent issue of my X5 failing to start. I will begin with my acquisition and detail my attempts and observations so far. The former owner reported intermittent starting issues; it functioned properly one day, starting in the morning and ceasing in the evening, yet failed to start the following morning. When the key was turned, there was no response—no clicking sound, although the lights remained illuminated, with some flickering as if attempting to start. Occasionally, a jump start would succeed, but often it would not. Subsequently, the ignition switch was replaced, and a new key was programmed, yet these measures proved ineffective. Since acquiring it, we have had no success. Despite installing a new battery, there was no improvement; nonetheless, we saw that the battery consistently discharged to 11.5 volts, suggesting a potential power loss. I have not yet been able to verify, since I have been eager to attempt to start the automobile; despite a newly charged battery, it failed to start. One evening, in my absence, my father attempted to start it with a companion. They were examining the ignition switch wires, confirming the presence of 12 volts, and probed one of the lines, which he identified as purple. The vehicle unexpectedly began and operated without any issues, leading us to exclude the possibility of a faulty starter or mechanical difficulties. We suspected a defective ignition switch connector, since the ignition switch had been changed, and I had no more information because I was not there. The next morning, the vehicle failed to start again. My father attempted to start it, and then connected a jump pack, which enabled it to start. We then took the car on an extended trip without any issues. Although we did not verify the functionality of the alternator, it presumably operated well, since we drove for around one hour. The following morning, I attempted to start the vehicle, but it failed to respond. I connected a jump pack to the engine bay terminals, yet there was no change; the battery registered 11.5V, and the jump pack did not enhance the voltage during the starting attempt. Unsure of my jumping technique, I suspected the front terminals might be faulty. Consequently, I disassembled the rear to connect the jump pack directly to the battery, but the voltage remained unchanged, and the car still would not start. Subsequently, I charged the battery until it reached a healthy 12.7V, but the vehicle still failed to start. I inspected and manipulated the ignition wires extensively, but to no avail. I am uncertain if the issue is a nightly power drain causing the vehicle to fail to start due to a depleted battery, or whether there is a malfunction in the ignition wiring, or maybe both. The car seems to operate erratically, and I find electrical systems perplexing, leaving me unable to assess the problem. Any assistance would be welcomed; please feel free to guide me through a comprehensive diagnosis from the beginning, providing explicit instructions in case I have overlooked any details. Best regards

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Is there a more effective method to bargain for a 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 liter 8 valve when viewings are strictly by appointment only? The original 3 Series chassis is reportedly identical; is this exactly correct (allegedly)?

Z£ for the rejection of any unjust bankers' draft will be permitted for seeing by appointment only. Necessities demand, consuming excessive time. Prior mots and BMWSH from English garages with prior P114 registration

This would deactivate the alarm, and I also want to install a concealed GPS tracker in the event that the vehicle is towed overnight. One cannot afford to be complacent; individuals are exhibiting unusual behaviors in contemporary society. 😰

Greetings to everybody. In light of the persistent economic crisis, a vehicle theft has just occurred on my neighborhood, along with an increase in thefts around the city. I want to put a concealed switch in my vehicle as an auxiliary anti-theft precaution in the event that someone circumvents the immobilizer. I own an E46 320d (acknowledging its age, although vintage BMWs are more coveted), and I am inquiring about the most appropriate circuit for switch installation. I am considering the ECU; however, I am concerned that deactivating it may also deactivate the alarm. Does anybody has expertise with this? Do you have further recommendations?

It’s getting more and more prevalent, I have done a number of these already, also happens to the 2.0d engines. You can get lucky sometimes and a rebuild will sort it but more frequently than not the spinning mains harm block thus it’s garbage.

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I would enter the concealed menu for the coolant temperature and drive while this is displayed, allowing you to record the temperature during this occurrence, thereby determining whether it is a genuine overheating issue or anything else.

Thank you! I was about to remark that! Those are, in fact, our neighbours! We reside in Guildford, Surrey, however my wife possesses Scottish ancestry. Last year, we undertook a road trip to Scotland to explore her family's origins, primarily along the East Coast. Visited numerous graves dating back several centuries.

Thank you, it is an automatic gearbox. I have observed that it accelerates more effectively in Sport mode, whilst Comfort mode exhibits a slight delay.

Greetings to everyone It appears unusual to post on a BMW site, as I often engage with Alfaowner or MB Club! We have exchanged my wife's previous Abarth 500, which had 135,000 miles, for an exquisite Estoril blue 120i. We acquired it from Sytner as a certified used vehicle after evaluating several options. It is well-equipped and in pristine condition with a comprehensive history.

Thank you. Could you identify the section in the accompanying screenshot that corresponds to pre cat bank 2?

Do you have any information on the other items?

I am attempting to eliminate these two mistakes. 2CAB - lambda sensor 2 before to catalyst, temperature 2CA7 - Lambda sensor pre-catalyst 2 heating function Enquiries: Is the lambda probe 2 located before or after the catalytic converter? I acknowledge it states otherwise, but other Google results indicate the contrary, so I wanted to verify. Do the two errors pertain to the same sensor? 3. Upon examining realoem, there are two sets of lambda probes/sensors; could you clarify their distinctions and functions?

That would certainly suffice.

The windows and sunroof must be re-initialized; without initialisation, they will not operate via the remote. The two front windows must completely open and shut with a brief button push; the sunroof should also fully open and close with a short touch.

No, that is unnecessary.

I'm crossing my fingers that you get the long pliers. If they don't work, getting out will be a real pain. Yes, I make foolish decisions and have regretted some of them, but some of them worked. I might even try pushing it all the way to the tank.

Nothing should be put there, in my opinion.