IrvesBMW

To elaborate further, having used the vehicle once more: Engine turned off for 5-10 minutes, then restarted, with no warnings and oil level indicating maximum. After driving for five minutes, the light reactivates, after a two-hour parking period subsequent to a three-hour highway excursion. Operates flawlessly and drives seamlessly.

2006 BMW 325i N52, 104,000 kilometers A comprehensive service was performed by BMW a few weeks ago, and since then, the vehicle has traveled 300 to 400 miles. Today, while traveling on the interstate on route home, the yellow low oil warning light illuminated. Stopped at the gas station and verified that the oil level was low. I entered the store and purchased some oil, which took around five minutes. I doubted the reading, so before adding more, I checked again, and it was at maximum, so I left it. Upon returning to the freeway, a few miles later, the low oil indicator illuminated once again. Do you have any insight on the potential reasons behind this?

I saw a fissure in the flexible pipe immediately after the catalytic converter. I have applied putty, which has resolved the misfire. I presume that external air infiltrated the system, causing confusion in the O2 sensor. Displacing objects and enriching the injectors, resulting in misfires. White smoke is presently emanating, but it lacks a nice odor. I hope the head gasket has not failed. The saga continues for the time being.

Prior to pursuing the ECU option. Would the ECU deactivate the injectors to avert harm if a gasket failure occurred between cylinders 2 and 3? I am quite unfamiliar with ECU matters and am uncertain if it is advisable to examine that prior to the ECU.

I was apprehensive about it myself. This may be better suitable for an automotive electrician.

Any assistance would be much welcomed in this matter. I am not a mechanic nor an electrician; nonetheless, I possess sufficient ability and confidence to attempt repairs before consulting a garage.

I need informed guidance on a problem with my engine misfiring (I understand this is not electrical, but I will explain my reason for posting here). I own a 2010 E92 equipped with an N43 engine. The misfire persists on cylinder 2 after replacing the spark plugs, coils, and injector 2, as well as coding and clearing the error code. Currently, the diagnostic codes I am receiving indicate misfires on cylinders 2 and 3. I conducted live data testing and found that after around 10 seconds of engine operation, the injectors are losing all electrical charge. I have examined the wire, and there are no visible signs of damage or corrosion; I am uncertain about the further steps to do. Any assistance would be much welcomed in this matter. I am not a mechanic nor an electrician; nonetheless, I possess sufficient ability and confidence to attempt repairs before consulting a garage.

Occasionally, the clamp may not align properly with the injector, resulting in a loose fit. Apply a jointing torque of 9 Nm, followed by a final torque of 26 Nm. Did you also clear the injector bolt hole, since oil accumulation in that area might produce the symptoms you described during tightening?

Did you thoroughly clean the seat within the head? New bolts are unnecessary since they are regular torque and not TTY. Did you tighten them properly?

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The automobile will never be fully paid off; it will only be exchanged.

Neither item is related to finance. Exhibiting your car's registration is especially unwise, since BMW credit has clearly shown its opposition to any modifications while the vehicle is financed.

Hello, I am inquiring if anybody has had any experience with TDI tuning boxes. I am in finance, therefore a remap is not a viable choice, although the potential power advantages are quite appealing. I was inquiring if anybody has had troubles with them, whether their stats are precise, and if they are worthwhile, etc.

I completed that task, connecting the earth mount on the body to a lift hook on the engine, nevertheless the engine would not start.

Are you proposing to connect a cable from the earth terminal on the passenger side inner wing in the engine compartment to any point on the engine, such as a lift hook, and then attempting to start or jump the vehicle as usual?

Greetings everyone, I want your assistance about the persistent issue of my X5 failing to start. I will begin with my acquisition and detail my attempts and observations so far. The former owner reported intermittent starting issues; it functioned properly one day, starting in the morning and ceasing in the evening, yet failed to start the following morning. When the key was turned, there was no response—no clicking sound, although the lights remained illuminated, with some flickering as if attempting to start. Occasionally, a jump start would succeed, but often it would not. Subsequently, the ignition switch was replaced, and a new key was programmed, yet these measures proved ineffective. Since acquiring it, we have had no success. Despite installing a new battery, there was no improvement; nonetheless, we saw that the battery consistently discharged to 11.5 volts, suggesting a potential power loss. I have not yet been able to verify, since I have been eager to attempt to start the automobile; despite a newly charged battery, it failed to start. One evening, in my absence, my father attempted to start it with a companion. They were examining the ignition switch wires, confirming the presence of 12 volts, and probed one of the lines, which he identified as purple. The vehicle unexpectedly began and operated without any issues, leading us to exclude the possibility of a faulty starter or mechanical difficulties. We suspected a defective ignition switch connector, since the ignition switch had been changed, and I had no more information because I was not there. The next morning, the vehicle failed to start again. My father attempted to start it, and then connected a jump pack, which enabled it to start. We then took the car on an extended trip without any issues. Although we did not verify the functionality of the alternator, it presumably operated well, since we drove for around one hour. The following morning, I attempted to start the vehicle, but it failed to respond. I connected a jump pack to the engine bay terminals, yet there was no change; the battery registered 11.5V, and the jump pack did not enhance the voltage during the starting attempt. Unsure of my jumping technique, I suspected the front terminals might be faulty. Consequently, I disassembled the rear to connect the jump pack directly to the battery, but the voltage remained unchanged, and the car still would not start. Subsequently, I charged the battery until it reached a healthy 12.7V, but the vehicle still failed to start. I inspected and manipulated the ignition wires extensively, but to no avail. I am uncertain if the issue is a nightly power drain causing the vehicle to fail to start due to a depleted battery, or whether there is a malfunction in the ignition wiring, or maybe both. The car seems to operate erratically, and I find electrical systems perplexing, leaving me unable to assess the problem. Any assistance would be welcomed; please feel free to guide me through a comprehensive diagnosis from the beginning, providing explicit instructions in case I have overlooked any details. Best regards

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Is there a more effective method to bargain for a 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 liter 8 valve when viewings are strictly by appointment only? The original 3 Series chassis is reportedly identical; is this exactly correct (allegedly)?

Z£ for the rejection of any unjust bankers' draft will be permitted for seeing by appointment only. Necessities demand, consuming excessive time. Prior mots and BMWSH from English garages with prior P114 registration

This would deactivate the alarm, and I also want to install a concealed GPS tracker in the event that the vehicle is towed overnight. One cannot afford to be complacent; individuals are exhibiting unusual behaviors in contemporary society. 😰

Greetings to everybody. In light of the persistent economic crisis, a vehicle theft has just occurred on my neighborhood, along with an increase in thefts around the city. I want to put a concealed switch in my vehicle as an auxiliary anti-theft precaution in the event that someone circumvents the immobilizer. I own an E46 320d (acknowledging its age, although vintage BMWs are more coveted), and I am inquiring about the most appropriate circuit for switch installation. I am considering the ECU; however, I am concerned that deactivating it may also deactivate the alarm. Does anybody has expertise with this? Do you have further recommendations?