IrvesBMW

I express my gratitude for the responses received and intend to undertake the suggested actions during the next week. I am aware that red calipers are popular among individuals, but, they do not align with my own preferences. Although I expressed my own opinion by using the terms "awful" and "hideous," it is important to acknowledge that aesthetic preferences vary across individuals. I have engaged in unconventional behaviors with my automobiles at instances characterized by both impulsive and rational states of mind.

I will attempt to implement the suggested approach. The rear brake pads are in need of replacement, and it may be convenient to do this maintenance task over the course of a weekend.

I am uncertain whether this is the appropriate forum for my inquiry. I am in possession of a 2007 5 series automobile, which I find to be aesthetically pleasing. However, I am perplexed by the decision to paint the calipers in a red hue, since it does not align with my personal preferences. The objects in question do not possess characteristics often associated with industrial production, and their appearance is subjectively unattractive. What is the most effective approach to address this issue? Is it sufficient to apply a layer of paint to cover the existing marks, or is it necessary to erase the marks, sand the surface, and then apply a fresh coat of paint? If feasible, it would be preferable to explore other options that are more cost-effective. However, it should be noted that all four calipers exhibit similar characteristics.

I have also seen the same phenomenon wherein I maintain consistent pressure in the tire sticker as shown by my non run-flat tires. This practice has been consistently applied to all of my BMW vehicles.

When encountering the issue, does it exhibit a crank no start condition or does it demonstrate a lack of any response? It is recommended to conduct a diagnostic scan using ISTA in order to get a more comprehensive understanding of the situation at hand.

Did you ascertain the root cause of the issue in question?

I am intrigued to see the resultant consequence. After seeing some recent reluctance, I discovered the same problem code. Additionally, I have seen on bimmerlink that there is a discrepancy between the goal and actual values of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Specifically, when the target value exceeds 50% during cruising and subsequent gradual acceleration, the real value of the EGR does not beyond 50-51%. Consequently, this leads me to suspect that the EGR may be experiencing stuck issues.

It is vital to ensure the placement of an axle stand underneath the gearbox prior to removing the engine, or alternatively, the use of a jack. Additionally, the steering universal joint (UJ) restricts the engine's range of motion, which might be a problem during reinstallation. To address this, I recommend use a hoist to support the weight of the engine and then removing the engine mount bracket to provide some flexibility.

The bonnet may be retained on the engine throughout the removal process on the E90 model by using a hoist. This can be achieved by first raising the hoist to its maximum height while the bonnet remains in its regular position. Subsequently, the hoist can be slightly retracted and further elevated until the bonnet is freed. In this scenario, the individual disengages the struts on the side of the vehicle and proceeds to open the hood closer to the windshield. It is worth noting that the hinges are specifically engineered to allow for a wider opening range than what is often seen during regular operation.

What is the age of the automobile in question? If the vehicle's identification number is N47, I would personally choose for repairing it. However, regardless of the decision made, it is necessary to remove the engine. In the case of the N47 engine, it is seen that the rockers are designed to be sacrificial. Consequently, in the majority of instances, resolving the issue requires the installation of a new chain kit together with the replacement of certain rockers. On rare occasions, it is possible for the cam carrier to develop cracks, as I have seen in a single instance. Regarding the removal of the engine, it involves use a hoist to lift it from the top, with the most challenging aspect being accessing the upper bell housing bolts. I am able to complete the installation of an e90 engine within an estimated time frame of one and a half hours, while working independently on my own driveway.

Only if you don't know how to read and don't have any feet!! Look it up on the forum, but I think you have to have the key in the ignition but the engine turned off, the gas pedal all the way down, and you have to keep holding it for approximately 40 seconds until you hear a faint click (and it is really faint, so go someplace quiet!). Turn off the ignition, start the vehicle, and continue driving as you normally would............ I really doubt that this will be of any use to you, but it's a free option that you may try out on your own!

If the problem only occurs when the vehicle is loaded or while it is moving away, might it be a problem with the traction control? Imagines that it has regained traction and that everything is back to normal after turning off the power because it believed it had lost it. It's possible that the problem lies in the gearbox's software; why not try resetting the throttle and going from there?

Thank you for your assistance. I have reviewed all of the items and they seem to be satisfactory. I am now endeavoring to investigate the root cause of fault 8040B1, which pertains to the wake-up line connecting to the IBS sensor. Is it feasible to implement measures to prevent the DDE from initiating wake-up events?

I was previously unaware of the existence of any further fuseboxes, since the graphic provided only depicts three fuseboxes.

After conducting a thorough examination, I have verified the integrity of all connections, repositioned the DDE (Digital Diesel Electronics), evaluated the functionality of the Relay, re-inspected all fuses, including those next to the Relay and inside the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) red box located near the rear battery. Based on my assessment, all components seem to be in satisfactory condition. There continues to be a lack of contact with the DDE. This situation is causing me significant distress. Are there any more recommendations that you can provide? I am inclined to posit that adopting a novel Direct Drive Extruder (DDE) represents the only viable solution. However, a fraction of my perspective remains convinced that the underlying problem may be attributed to either a power-related or grounding-related matter.

After conducting many tests, it seems that there is no reaction detected from the DME/DDE unit. Does anybody have knowledge of the specific location of this? Furthermore, would the process of replacement need programming?

I have also procured an ISTA cable for the purpose of doing diagnostics using Ista-D at a later time this evening. I am hopeful that a prompt resolution may be achieved.

I just had my vehicle transported to my residence and would want to begin by inspecting all fuses connected to gasoline, drivetrain, and the electronic control unit (ECU). However, I am currently unable to locate any comprehensive diagrams or listings of these fuses. Could you please provide any relevant sources or references? Greetings

After doing a diagnostic scan, the sole detected fault is U1164, which is a somewhat general error code that pertains to communication issues originating from the Electronic Control Unit (ECU).

Greetings. The vehicle in question had a sudden cessation of functionality shortly after departing from the driveway, originally leading the user to suspect a potential issue with the start-stop system. Subsequently, the vehicle has failed to initiate the cranking process. Several errors were encountered. The occurrence of a drivetrain malfunction. The provision of fuel The user's text contains an error. The brake system is an essential component of a vehicle's overall safety mechanism. It is responsible for slowing down or stopping the vehicle by The individual had a failure and was unable to start their vehicle. They determined that the problem was not related to electricity, since a voltage measurement of 12.8V was obtained and the vehicle still failed to start. Postscript: Approximately one week before, while operating a motor vehicle, the driver experienced a sudden jolt and afterwards received an error message related to the drivetrain. The driver attempted to resolve the issue by turning the vehicle off and on again, and has since driven a distance of 200 miles without further incident. At the time, the driver did not attach any significance to this occurrence. Do you have any suggestions on potential starting points for excavation?

Yesterday, I attempted to do maintenance on our equipment. However, I encountered a challenge as the spindle was firmly stuck owing to significant corrosion. Consequently, I made the decision to purchase a pre-owned bracket/spindle combination in excellent condition for a total cost of £12. The act of cleaning and greasing the final E91 was deemed worthwhile, since it did not encounter any issues.

The circular component mentioned is an integral element of the wiper motor. In the event that there is resistance in the spindle, it will result in the motor being deactivated due to an excessive flow of electricity. In order to do a motor test, one should use a screwdriver to activate the latch and thereafter engage the rear wiper switch. It is vital to verify that the motor disk is rotating as expected. It is important to remember to activate the glass button once more before to its deactivation.

To disassemble the arm, it is necessary to remove it first. Once the arm is off, one will find a circlip that secures the spindle inside the housing. Remove the aforementioned item and proceed to apply a penetrating fluid inside the designated enclosure. In order to get optimal results, it is preferable to liberate the spindle. However, it is desirable to extract the spindle from the opposing side for the purpose of thorough cleaning and lubrication.

Alternatively, the spindle may be immobilized at the point where it traverses the glass handle.