IrvesBMW

I would want to express my gratitude once again for your assistance, which I much value.

Thank you once again for your response. Considering my decision to get the Mahle PowerPak forged pistons, which possess a distinctive coating, I am contemplating the possibility of abstaining from piston machining and instead using a thicker head gasket. What is your opinion on the matter at hand? Regarding the rod bearings, would you suggest the Lead-indium bearings from Mahle MotorSports as a suitable option? I kindly want your recommendation on the matter of valve seating. I express my gratitude one again.

Thank you for providing your feedback. I really like the opportunity to engage with the S65 engine as a novice. Regarding the increase, it will range from 7 to 9 pounds per square inch (psi). I discovered a head gasket with a thickness of 1.3mm, which I am contemplating using in conjunction with Mahle pistons that have a compression ratio of 12.2:1, as opposed to the original ratio of 12.0:1. This adjustment is intended to compensate for the anticipated refreshment of the cylinder heads. Regarding the valves, I want to do a minimum of triple valve angle seating. However, I will consult the engineering company with whom I will be collaborating to inquire about your recommendation. I kindly request that you provide further information, as it would be very appreciated. Regarding the valve spring kit, could you recommend any other manufacturers or configurations? Would you recommend that I pursue an other course of action? I express my gratitude one again.

Following a year of using the VF620 Supercharger Kit on my 2008 BMW M3 e92, I have made the decision to dismantle the engine and implement enhancements aimed at enhancing its reliability and maybe achieving superior performance. I am composing this essay with the intention of seeking recommendations on the optimal components to include in my engine repair. The vehicle will be used for both street and racing purposes. Please provide me with your sincere evaluation and recommendations. I own a pre-existing collection of Arrow connecting rods. The crankshaft will achieve complete balance with the acquisition of all the necessary components in accordance with the specifications. The further enhancements that I want to install on my S65 engine are as follows: A comprehensive set of valve springs that have been enhanced for improved performance. I have observed the SCHRICK HIGH-PERFORMANCE VALVE SPRING KIT. In your opinion, do you believe them to be the optimal choice? Could you recommend other brands? I am considering the use of a complete piston set manufactured by Mahle. However, I am now uncertain as to whether I should choose for the 4032 or 2618 forged pistons. Additionally, I am also undecided between using the original 12.2:1 compression ratio or the alternative 10.1:1 compression ratio. The bores were meticulously measured and are in excellent condition, with a bore size of 92mm. Could you kindly provide advice, please? I am considering the use of 12.1:1 compression ratio (CR) pistons in conjunction with a 1.3mm thick head gasket sourced from FCP Engineering, with the intention of slightly reducing the compression ratio. Kindly provide guidance or recommendations. The topic of discussion pertains to rod bearings. Presently, I am examining two potential options for bearings: the polymer-coated bearings manufactured by King Racing and the lead-indium racing bearings produced by Mahle Motorsport. Kindly provide guidance or recommendations. Which options would you recommend? Could you kindly provide any other recommendations? The whole gasket set is sourced from either Elring or Victor Reinz. Which option would be selected? I am replacing the original head bolts with ARP head studs. Kindly provide guidance or recommendations. The following enhancements are under consideration for implementation during the engine overhaul process. Could you provide any recommendations for the use of the VF620 supercharger kit from VF Engineering in street/race scenarios? Please do not hesitate to provide me with alternate items to the ones mentioned above. Additionally, if you are aware of any websites that are now giving discounts, I would really appreciate it if you could kindly indicate them. I express my gratitude in advance.

The BMW M Performance electronic steering wheel does not need any programming, as per my understanding.

I have acquired a collection of 19-inch wheels for my BMW 750i, which have been equipped with All Season tires in preparation for winter conditions. The quality of the ride exhibits a marginal improvement, yet it falls short of the significant disparities that are being expounded upon inside this discussion. Perhaps the reason for this might be attributed to the possession of Executive Drive Pro.

I used my creative problem-solving skills to arrive at a solution. I retrieved one of the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) speakers that I had previously removed and proceeded to establish a connection with the wiring harness, assuming that it was the designated location for the speaker wire. I used the fader and balance controls to ascertain the identification of each speaker. The task has been successfully completed.

I have had significant challenges throughout the latter phases. The front door speakers have been successfully attached, and I have documented the wire colors for future reference. The colors under consideration are yellow and yellow/blue. The subject matter under consideration is the concept of "left," specifically in relation to the colors white and white/blue. I have removed the CCC iDrive and intend to sever the input and output cables for the new speakers. This is the location where I anticipated seeing a pair of wires, one white and white/blue, and another yellow and yellow/blue. Nevertheless, I do not own the aforementioned wires, since there are many other connections connected to the rear of the machine. I am now facing a significant impasse. Could someone kindly provide answers to two questions I have? Does the presence of a BMW vehicle between the speaker and the head unit result in any alteration in the color of the speaker wires? Could someone please provide information on the specific cables located in the front left and right areas? I would want to express my gratitude in advance.

Today, I successfully completed the installation of my Rockford Fosgate front speakers, which have a diameter of 4 inches. The speaker, although being 4 inches in size, has much larger cone area and depth. Remarkably, the mounting holes exhibit alignment with those of the RF's as a result of the basket design. In order to accommodate the cone excursion adequately, it was necessary to remove a portion of the plastic by grinding. Once the door panel was joined, it was seen that it protruded more, but it was successfully reinstalled without any difficulty. The operating system Windows, along with other related software, operates without any noticeable issues. The audio quality has much improved; however, I have not yet established a connection between these components and the amplifier. Currently, they are still operating via the head unit. Even in the absence of other installations such as amplifiers, these speakers are capable of fitting into the system and producing superior sound quality compared to the original stock speakers. The approximate cost of a set is around $55.

The first step should include identifying the head unit in question, specifically whether it is a CCC or CIC. Conducting an online search to determine the corresponding screen that aligns with the identified head unit is recommended. Additionally, may I inquire about the volume of your audio system? I have come upon a little piece of information that may be of use. If tweeters are absent from the front doors, it may be inferred that the audio system is classified as "Base." If tweeters are present in the front doors and there is an absence of speakers in the rear "D-Pillars" of the X5, it may be concluded that the audio system in question is categorized as "Standard (Hi-Fi)." If there are speakers present inside this particular region, it may be inferred that the audio quality is of a premium kind, specifically categorized as "Premium (Top Hi-Fi)." If one has a high-fidelity (Hi-Fi) or top-tier Hi-Fi audio system, it is likely that an amplifier is present, often located in the passenger side of the vehicle's trunk. One may get high-level input from that source. In the event that one has a foundational or rudimentary configuration like to mine, the reception of information at a higher level is facilitated by the posterior aspect of the primary control unit. Subsequently, the high-level signal is sent to a high-low converter, resulting in the generation of pre-outs. If one has a filtered signal, it is advisable to use a subwoofer equalizer/crossover or verify that the amplifier being used possesses a proficient crossover and the capacity to enhance frequencies. Failure to do so may result in the transmission of a signal lacking in bass to the amplifier. The following is a description of my experimental arrangement: I use cache cloc+d as my line converter in order to optimize bass performance. Additionally, I employ the Vibe Delta Bass generator to fine-tune the bass output.

Could you please provide further information? I own a CCC unit and have successfully obtained a wiring schematic for such equipment, which conveniently delineates the requisite speaker cables. I will proceed to access the dashboard and ascertain if the components I own align with the provided diagram. After examining the CCC Idrive unit and referring to the diagram provided below, it is evident that the diagram does not correspond to the CCC Idrive unit.

I am contemplating the acquisition of a dashboard camera for my E92 vehicle, although I am encountering difficulty in locating a good option. I am disinclined to remove it from the vehicle each time I depart due to the inconvenience it entails. However, I am also reluctant to keep it visible, since this increases the likelihood of theft. Ideally, the preference is for a camera lens with an extended cable, allowing for the majority of the equipment to be stored in the glove box while just a discreet camera remains visible. However, it seems that such camera configurations are not readily available, particularly at a reasonable cost. An alternative suggestion is using a dated mobile device in conjunction with a USB webcam or endoscope that is connected through a USB port. The primary aspect of concern in this context is to the quality of the images. Dash cameras are capable of capturing high-quality images, particularly in low-light conditions, due to their superior night vision capabilities. Additionally, these cameras provide a wide-angle perspective, which further enhances their visual coverage. Consequently, it may be challenging to locate a webcam with equivalent specifications. According to an acquaintance employed in law enforcement, the incidence of dash cam theft is rather infrequent, although the prevalence of stolen satellite navigation systems is much higher. The rationale for the comparable pricing of sat navs and dash cameras remains unclear. One could have anticipated dash cams to possess more appeal, given that sat navs are considered outdated technology due to the prevalence of Google Maps. I am curious about the practices and behaviors of others. Has an inconspicuous solution been discovered or do the majority of individuals just retain their dash cameras in place, relying on the chance that they will not be stolen?

Yes, indeed! Automatic Number Plate Recognition (ANPR) is still capable of reading the information on the number plate.

I express my gratitude for the responses received and intend to undertake the suggested actions during the next week. I am aware that red calipers are popular among individuals, but, they do not align with my own preferences. Although I expressed my own opinion by using the terms "awful" and "hideous," it is important to acknowledge that aesthetic preferences vary across individuals. I have engaged in unconventional behaviors with my automobiles at instances characterized by both impulsive and rational states of mind.

I will attempt to implement the suggested approach. The rear brake pads are in need of replacement, and it may be convenient to do this maintenance task over the course of a weekend.

I am uncertain whether this is the appropriate forum for my inquiry. I am in possession of a 2007 5 series automobile, which I find to be aesthetically pleasing. However, I am perplexed by the decision to paint the calipers in a red hue, since it does not align with my personal preferences. The objects in question do not possess characteristics often associated with industrial production, and their appearance is subjectively unattractive. What is the most effective approach to address this issue? Is it sufficient to apply a layer of paint to cover the existing marks, or is it necessary to erase the marks, sand the surface, and then apply a fresh coat of paint? If feasible, it would be preferable to explore other options that are more cost-effective. However, it should be noted that all four calipers exhibit similar characteristics.

I have also seen the same phenomenon wherein I maintain consistent pressure in the tire sticker as shown by my non run-flat tires. This practice has been consistently applied to all of my BMW vehicles.

When encountering the issue, does it exhibit a crank no start condition or does it demonstrate a lack of any response? It is recommended to conduct a diagnostic scan using ISTA in order to get a more comprehensive understanding of the situation at hand.

Did you ascertain the root cause of the issue in question?

I am intrigued to see the resultant consequence. After seeing some recent reluctance, I discovered the same problem code. Additionally, I have seen on bimmerlink that there is a discrepancy between the goal and actual values of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Specifically, when the target value exceeds 50% during cruising and subsequent gradual acceleration, the real value of the EGR does not beyond 50-51%. Consequently, this leads me to suspect that the EGR may be experiencing stuck issues.

It is vital to ensure the placement of an axle stand underneath the gearbox prior to removing the engine, or alternatively, the use of a jack. Additionally, the steering universal joint (UJ) restricts the engine's range of motion, which might be a problem during reinstallation. To address this, I recommend use a hoist to support the weight of the engine and then removing the engine mount bracket to provide some flexibility.

The bonnet may be retained on the engine throughout the removal process on the E90 model by using a hoist. This can be achieved by first raising the hoist to its maximum height while the bonnet remains in its regular position. Subsequently, the hoist can be slightly retracted and further elevated until the bonnet is freed. In this scenario, the individual disengages the struts on the side of the vehicle and proceeds to open the hood closer to the windshield. It is worth noting that the hinges are specifically engineered to allow for a wider opening range than what is often seen during regular operation.

What is the age of the automobile in question? If the vehicle's identification number is N47, I would personally choose for repairing it. However, regardless of the decision made, it is necessary to remove the engine. In the case of the N47 engine, it is seen that the rockers are designed to be sacrificial. Consequently, in the majority of instances, resolving the issue requires the installation of a new chain kit together with the replacement of certain rockers. On rare occasions, it is possible for the cam carrier to develop cracks, as I have seen in a single instance. Regarding the removal of the engine, it involves use a hoist to lift it from the top, with the most challenging aspect being accessing the upper bell housing bolts. I am able to complete the installation of an e90 engine within an estimated time frame of one and a half hours, while working independently on my own driveway.

Only if you don't know how to read and don't have any feet!! Look it up on the forum, but I think you have to have the key in the ignition but the engine turned off, the gas pedal all the way down, and you have to keep holding it for approximately 40 seconds until you hear a faint click (and it is really faint, so go someplace quiet!). Turn off the ignition, start the vehicle, and continue driving as you normally would............ I really doubt that this will be of any use to you, but it's a free option that you may try out on your own!