Blu_Ray_UK2007

Based on my experience with my other mini, I know that the pump isn't the problem. After reviewing the scan tool's data, I've narrowed it down to one issue: the fuel rail pressure is only 1.3 mpa, while it's 5.2 mpa on my other mini. My only remaining guess is that the fuel rail pressure sensor is giving a false reading and preventing the engine from starting.

They were all removed from a running vehicle, and the sensors that were in there were likewise tested on the running vehicle and found to be in working order.

Amazon.com

ey there! I just acquired a 2007 R56 Cooper S. The test drive was great, however the seller wanted it gone fast because he was going on a six-month work trip (which I verified). Any advice? We drove out after agreeing on a price—which was ridiculously low—but the vehicle suddenly stopped working on me after just 4.6 miles.I am an old-school mechanic who is familiar with carbs and distributors, so I thought this would be easy. However, it ran out of fuel when I was on a busy road, and I tried to start it until the battery died. Now, two weeks later, I have bought a second-running R56 Chevy to try to fix it. It starts up and runs smoothly, but that's about it. Following is a rundown of everything I've done thus far; I've swapped out all the parts for runners and it still operates, however a quick Google search revealed that the HPFP change was unsuccessful. The reader displays 27ce codes. Revised hpfp Revised lpfp to Vanos solenoid replaced Replaced the camera's sensor Modified maf sensors I used the setting tool to verify the timing, and it was perfect. During priming and cranking, 12v at LPFP Ignite all four spark plugs Has the sensation of exhaust pressure when turning the crank Cold compression test results show 155 to 166 psi. I use the easy start method, however it only moistens the plugs. Both horsepower and torque gages show fuel rail pressures of 1.3 mpa on the reader and 5.1 mpa on the runner. The only sensors I haven't switched out yet are the ones for fuel rail pressure and crank, and now I don't know what to do. Who can provide me a hand?

The executive bonuses are also very good.

Much obliged. I just updated my first bimmercode, which allowed my TV to function while driving. It's really easy to use.

My home is in Wales, yet I'm Scottish. I found this old obe with only 53,000 miles on it, and it's in almost mint condition. I've always owned a volvis, so it was time for a change.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=timing+chain&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X0fefcda91f46e4baa8d44588828dbadf&subId2=15

This is just one more reason why you shouldn't use the start-stop feature on these engines; it could be related to the chain.

Please tell me the signs that prompted you to check the vehicle.

😊

My PCP rifle, which I use when there are rats around, would be perfect for posting if I didn't fear being banned 😂

It seems like there was a temporary canbus problem that prevented the startup checks from reading your turn signal. After that, it correctly read the system the following time you switched it on.

You can see the oil leaking from the engine's sump and central area.

Is it typical for these engines to not produce any visible signs of wear and tear, such as a milky cap, white smoke, etc., unless the engine is run in cold weather? Additionally, I've read that a water pump leak may cause the coolant to become black and cause coolant loss, even if the leak is just a hairline.