IrvesBMW

Please examine this information. I hope it is beneficial.

They should easily and seamlessly fit your reproductions without any issues. In order to ensure that you get the exact components that were initially specified, you may verify them on the realoem website by entering your vehicle identification number (VIN) and doing a search. It is unnecessary to visit the dealer for programming. To resolve the issue, you must reset the TPMS in the idrive system and then drive for about 10 minutes. The electronics should establish communication with the module in order to operate the idrive and synchronise their functions.

Can you confirm whether your car is equipped with TPMS sensors? I am asking because you are now at a location, and if you have a specialised car like the one shown in your avatar, it is likely that you do not have tyre sensors installed. Prior to 2014, specialised vehicles were equipped with the FTM (flat tyre monitor) system instead of TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system). They operate by gauging the tire's rotation rather than the tire's pressure. I am aware that this is true for my 2013 X6M. If you are uncertain, you may verify by visually inspecting the tyre valve.

Continue using the original factory spark plugs. I had misfires on many unconventional components, and while visiting an independent repair shop, it is crucial to ensure that the part number precisely corresponds to the logos marked on them. In terms of oil, I have also experimented with 0w 40. However, it is crucial to utilise the original oil filter. I have had worn oil pump sprockets and oil pump problems that required a significant amount of time to repair and identify.

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I have just purchased a can of AC90. I will inform you about the outcome. Thank you.

I failed the MOT on my BMW lately and have decided to attempt fixing the problem myself. The problem I encountered is that the brake hoses on my old car (2005) seem to be rusted and stuck in the calliper. I attempted to remove them using a 14mm wrench and WD-40, but was unsuccessful. In the photos, you can see that I had to cut one hose to gain better access. I have two new hoses to replace them. Any advice on how to successfully remove the rusted hose?

Thank you for your response, I will proceed as instructed. It is all somewhat suspicious, isn't it?

The breakdown occurred immediately, and the dashboard displayed a warning indicating a problem with the powertrain. From my comprehension, there are occasional occurrences of power loss and coolant alerts that may have been detected if I had a more technical understanding. However, in September, I brought my vehicle to the shop for the EGR recall, but they failed to do the necessary service. The garage confirmed the presence of metal filings in the oil, but they firmly said that it could not have been caused by the defective Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. It is worth mentioning that the EGR and intake manifold were severely damaged and perforated by the time they were replaced. The occurrence of the engine failure in isolation from the malfunctioning EGR seems to be very improbable, suggesting a lack of coincidence.

Is it feasible, however? The vehicle is now being taken to an independent shop for the installation of a new engine. However, it is unlikely that the mechanics would dismantle the faulty engine to determine the precise cause of its failure. Although the situation remains uncertain, BMW declined to provide any assistance despite its failure to carry out the EGR recall when I brought the vehicle in September. However, when my vehicle unexpectedly malfunctioned on the motorway in December, the first course of action taken was to replace the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system and the intake manifold.

Indeed, a similar occurrence happened with my own device, and I surmise (albeit without concrete evidence) that this had an adverse impact on the engine. The dealership has provided me with a quote of £12,000 for a new engine. And uncooperative in offering any assistance!

Greetings, everyone. Has anybody encountered a situation where an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) defect has directly resulted in a complete engine failure? The dealership/BMW UK refuses to contribute to the cost of replacing the engine in my 1 series, claiming that it is unrelated to the malfunctioning EGR. However, they were unable to determine the specific cause of the engine failure without doing a further examination that I would have to pay for. Is this correct?

A potential cause for the engine idling at a set speed of 1500rpm without any reaction to the accelerator might be a malfunctioning accelerator pedal sensor or an erroneous connection to, or issue with, the fuel rail pressure sensor. Perhaps the availability of these items is lacking....? Did you use contact cleaner to cleanse the plug pins and inspect for water infiltration by removing the plug backshells when you modified the DDE?

Indeed, the date code corresponds to the year of the automobile (2021), providing assurance that it is the original battery from the manufacturer.

Affirmative, it is. Please refer to the accompanying photograph. To be frank, I find it quite peculiar. I have discovered an additional x1 available for purchase online that has an identical battery. I am seeking information from those who have an electronic flight bag (EFB) in order to enhance my knowledge before discussing it with BMW. The car I possess is a 2021 BMW X1 M Sport with a 2-liter engine. It was previously used as a demonstration by the BMW dealer, and I am now the first private owner. Is an EFB battery sufficiently potent for the electronics of BMW vehicles? I am receiving battery low notifications.

Greetings I would want to inquire about the battery in my 2021 BMW X1, which is equipped with a Genuine original BMW EFB battery manufactured by Banner. I have noticed that most X1 models are equipped with AGM batteries. Is the BMW X1 or any other model equipped with a factory-installed EFB battery or an AGM battery? Kindly respond to the poll. Thank you.

During the process of renovating the front suspension, I used Febi components for both the inner and outside parts. They are satisfactory considering their cost. I have also used Lemforder, which is likewise excellent. I engage in aggressive cornering manoeuvres.

The blower motor only draws air via the coarse foam filter located on the front side of the heater motor box. This foam filter effectively prevents the passage of any particles visible to the human eye.Any dust particles that manage to get through are effectively blocked by the more refined pollen filters. The dashboard outlet vents are the only potential entry point for foreign objects in the system. The motor itself might be the cause, but it is unexpected for it to squeal at all speeds. However, increasing mileage increases the likelihood of this possibility. If you decide to remove the motor for replacement, I recommend taking photographs using your mobile phone and using correction fluid or a marker pen to clearly label the drive wheels and other relevant components. Wishing you success.

Hello, Removing the blower motor requires great care and precision. To begin, open the bonnet (hood) and locate the two strengthening tubes positioned at the top of the engine bay, extending from under the windscreen plastic scuttle panel to each of the strut tops. Start by removing the plastic trim in the right-hand corner that is adjacent to the windscreen.Subsequently, you will have the capability to detach the right-hand strengthening tube that connects to the strut top. Presented before you is a sizable lid with a flat, box-like structure.The dimensions are about 300mm x 200mm.There is a rough filter foam on the front side, as well as an AUC sensor.Exercise caution while handling the sensor, since its fastener is prone to easy breakage.To access the inside, it is necessary to detach the large lid by unscrewing the four torx screws. It is advisable to clean the coarse filter. Once you remove the large lid, you will be able to locate the fan motor and the recirculating vent flaps. These vent flaps are not secured and just rest in place. Furthermore, at the termination of the vent flaps, there are driving gears that, if detached, must be reinstalled in the correct orientation to ensure the complete opening and closing of the vent. It is advisable to lubricate the bearings of the motor shaft, provided that they are not sealed bearings. This may be done by applying mild oil to the ends of the shaft.Avoid excessive application of oil, as it may result in an unpleasant odour inside the vehicle. Additionally, please note that the end-of-line resistor is located in that area. Inspect the fan blades for any abrasions that might potentially cause it to get entangled. Do not activate the fan without the box cover attached. Another plausible explanation for the noise might be that an object has been accidentally put into an air vent. The low setting of the fan may not have sufficient strength to dislodge it, but the high setting could be more effective. It is advisable to remove the lid of the pollen filters box and take out the pollen filters. Then, increase the fan speed.The pollen filters are changed during maintenance, and if they are not reinstalled properly, they may get disturbed.

There may be a wide range of radio stations available, however the number of TV channels could be limited based on your region. The aftermarket antenna installed in my 320d could not get any television signals outside my home, so I did not pay much attention to it. However, one day while waiting for my wife at a higher place, I decided to experiment with it and it successfully picked up 60 to 70 television channels. Attempt it once again in an other setting.

It is now the time of year ... Not just on this platform, but also across several online forums and Facebook groups, there is a prevalent occurrence of individuals engaging in the practise of mindlessly duplicating and sharing the responses of others.

It is advisable to inspect the condition of the springs for any signs of breakage. Additionally, it is worth noting that wheels are susceptible to cracking. Consequently, it may be necessary to dismount the tyres in order to conduct a thorough examination of the wheels.

Could you please provide visual representations in the form of images?