IrvesBMW

If you want to retain ownership of the vehicle for an extended period, it is advisable to replace the oil and filter between 7,000 and 10,000 miles. Perform the routine maintenance, but also include additional oil and filter changes. You may accumulate lunar miles by taking care of it in this manner.

Thank you for your reply, friend! Indeed, the ticking description is likely a result of my lack of proficiency in articulating the auditory sensation. Yes, I have stored it in the garage and the brakes and discs are in good condition. Additionally, they have moved the dust cover back as a precautionary measure. over doing many test drives, they have noticed that the sound is intermittent and becomes more noticeable over extended periods of driving. I want to return the item and request that they do a more extensive test drive to inspect the condition of the wheel bearing.

In 2018, I brought my F33 car to a shop where the mechanics first believed that the noise was caused by the dust shield. They informed me that they had made some adjustments to push it out somewhat. However, despite their efforts, I am still experiencing the same noise. I only perceive the sound while making left turns, however I am uncertain whether this detail is of any significance. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? It would be beneficial to have an understanding of the issue before I bring it back to the garage, expressing dissatisfaction once again, in a humorous manner.

Did the solenoid emit a clicking sound after you made the change? The presence of air leakage and failure to cease at the appropriate time is evident. Is there a problem with the level controller?

Sounds indistinguishable from my own three years ago. Despite applying fresh air bags, I continue to have sporadic collapse. Ultimately identified the issue as the bleed solenoid needle being lodged. The needle is situated inside the solenoid, like a large receptacle for salt or pepper, next to the compressor. The only method was to remove the whole unit (consisting of just 4 bolts on GT) and place it on the bench. I then used my lawnmower batteries and WD40 to repeatedly connect and disconnect a few wires. The sound of it oscillating within is audible. Initially, my object was stuck, but I managed to initiate it by touching carefully. It has been flawless ever since. If yours has been exposed to dampness, it is quite probable that the problem exists. My mine had been waiting for EGR components for a period of 3 months, which I believe was the catalyst for mine. A bleed solenoid is required to decrease the suspension, while a compressor is responsible for increasing it. I have acquired two unnecessary bags. Wishing you the utmost success.

The temperature on the hidden menu does not exceed 90 degrees, and there is no loss of coolant. Additionally, I did not complete my job until 7.30 yesterday night, so I did not have the opportunity to visit my colleague to see whether his 330d also has the same issue

I am uncertain about the origin of the vehicle, as I acquired it from a friend. However, I allowed it to undergo a tickover process for a duration of three hours, specifically from 1pm to 4pm. During this time, the top hose exhibited a pleasant and pliable quality, while the expansion tank did not experience any back pressure. Consequently, the vehicle's performance deteriorated upon a thorough booting. In light of this, I have requested my friend, who is responsible for arranging a 330d e90, to arrive later so that we can conduct a similar booting procedure. I will provide you with an update at a later time. Thank you for your responses.

Hi no I haven't put any head gasket stuff in as I'm sure it's not the head gasket I don't have any head gasket symptoms and also done a test woth the blue dye and the dye stays blue also no oil in coolant, my oil isn't milky no loss of compression no fluid or excessive smoke from exhaust, I did put new radiator on last night took for a 10 min run amd top hose was fine and no back pressure from expansion tank, so took for another run but gave it a good booting and top hose went hard again, forgot to mention its running stage 2 tune, egr delete,dpf delete upgrade intercooler its running 370 bhp so would that cause my problem, thanks

Hello everyone, I recently replaced the water pump and thermostat on my 2007 335d m57. The expansion tank was bubbling over. I also conducted a CO2 test in the expansion tank, but the die remained blue, indicating that the head gasket was not the issue. I then filled the tank with new coolant and bled the system. Unfortunately, I had to do this manually because I have a mechanical pump. I drove the car until it reached warm temperature and everything appeared to be fine. However, when I returned from a 5-minute drive, I noticed that the top hose had solidified again. When I opened the expansion tank, it erupted like a volcano. Therefore, my next step is to replace the radiator. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Additionally, it is a commendable suggestion... I was unable to complete the task tonight due to a lack of time, but I will resume working on it soon.

Understood - it seems like a well-thought-out strategy. I will provide a report once my return.

Issue - The parking sensors are non-functional and a manual intervention warning is shown on the screen. This particular variant has the PDC module integrated into the "Junction Box Electronics" module, which is located next to the fusebox. The actions I have taken. Verified with ISTA. The statement asserts that all the sensors are defective, which is improbable. To the best of my knowledge, the sensors consist of three wires - a 12-volt wire, a ground wire, and a sense wire. I have verified the presence of electrical power at the JBE connection when the PDC is in the "on" position. There is no information or content. Both the 12V and ground connections register as ground when tested with a power probe. Additionally, I have verified this by disconnecting the sensor's connector, in case there is a possible hard short. There is no 12V power available. I am unable to locate a specific fuse for the PDC, and ISTA (unfortunately) states that the PDC circuit receives power from the JBE. All the fuses for the JBE are in fine condition. In my opinion, it seems to resemble a defective JBE. Given the substantial amount of money involved, I would want to inquire if anybody have any prior experience, innovative ideas, or insightful views before I forward with the action.

That is the matter at hand. Currently, I do not own any TPMS sensors. The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) wheels were equipped with sensors. Subsequently, I have acquired three sets of aftermarket wheels. According to online sources, programming of these devices can be done using a multi tool, but they can also be reset using iDrive. Maybe contacting a nearby store can provide me with some information.

Please examine this information. I hope it is beneficial.

They should easily and seamlessly fit your reproductions without any issues. In order to ensure that you get the exact components that were initially specified, you may verify them on the realoem website by entering your vehicle identification number (VIN) and doing a search. It is unnecessary to visit the dealer for programming. To resolve the issue, you must reset the TPMS in the idrive system and then drive for about 10 minutes. The electronics should establish communication with the module in order to operate the idrive and synchronise their functions.

Can you confirm whether your car is equipped with TPMS sensors? I am asking because you are now at a location, and if you have a specialised car like the one shown in your avatar, it is likely that you do not have tyre sensors installed. Prior to 2014, specialised vehicles were equipped with the FTM (flat tyre monitor) system instead of TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system). They operate by gauging the tire's rotation rather than the tire's pressure. I am aware that this is true for my 2013 X6M. If you are uncertain, you may verify by visually inspecting the tyre valve.

Continue using the original factory spark plugs. I had misfires on many unconventional components, and while visiting an independent repair shop, it is crucial to ensure that the part number precisely corresponds to the logos marked on them. In terms of oil, I have also experimented with 0w 40. However, it is crucial to utilise the original oil filter. I have had worn oil pump sprockets and oil pump problems that required a significant amount of time to repair and identify.

ok 👍

I have just purchased a can of AC90. I will inform you about the outcome. Thank you.

I failed the MOT on my BMW lately and have decided to attempt fixing the problem myself. The problem I encountered is that the brake hoses on my old car (2005) seem to be rusted and stuck in the calliper. I attempted to remove them using a 14mm wrench and WD-40, but was unsuccessful. In the photos, you can see that I had to cut one hose to gain better access. I have two new hoses to replace them. Any advice on how to successfully remove the rusted hose?

Thank you for your response, I will proceed as instructed. It is all somewhat suspicious, isn't it?

The breakdown occurred immediately, and the dashboard displayed a warning indicating a problem with the powertrain. From my comprehension, there are occasional occurrences of power loss and coolant alerts that may have been detected if I had a more technical understanding. However, in September, I brought my vehicle to the shop for the EGR recall, but they failed to do the necessary service. The garage confirmed the presence of metal filings in the oil, but they firmly said that it could not have been caused by the defective Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. It is worth mentioning that the EGR and intake manifold were severely damaged and perforated by the time they were replaced. The occurrence of the engine failure in isolation from the malfunctioning EGR seems to be very improbable, suggesting a lack of coincidence.

Is it feasible, however? The vehicle is now being taken to an independent shop for the installation of a new engine. However, it is unlikely that the mechanics would dismantle the faulty engine to determine the precise cause of its failure. Although the situation remains uncertain, BMW declined to provide any assistance despite its failure to carry out the EGR recall when I brought the vehicle in September. However, when my vehicle unexpectedly malfunctioned on the motorway in December, the first course of action taken was to replace the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system and the intake manifold.