IrvesBMW

It’s getting more and more prevalent, I have done a number of these already, also happens to the 2.0d engines. You can get lucky sometimes and a rebuild will sort it but more frequently than not the spinning mains harm block thus it’s garbage.

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I would enter the concealed menu for the coolant temperature and drive while this is displayed, allowing you to record the temperature during this occurrence, thereby determining whether it is a genuine overheating issue or anything else.

Thank you! I was about to remark that! Those are, in fact, our neighbours! We reside in Guildford, Surrey, however my wife possesses Scottish ancestry. Last year, we undertook a road trip to Scotland to explore her family's origins, primarily along the East Coast. Visited numerous graves dating back several centuries.

Thank you, it is an automatic gearbox. I have observed that it accelerates more effectively in Sport mode, whilst Comfort mode exhibits a slight delay.

Greetings to everyone It appears unusual to post on a BMW site, as I often engage with Alfaowner or MB Club! We have exchanged my wife's previous Abarth 500, which had 135,000 miles, for an exquisite Estoril blue 120i. We acquired it from Sytner as a certified used vehicle after evaluating several options. It is well-equipped and in pristine condition with a comprehensive history.

Thank you. Could you identify the section in the accompanying screenshot that corresponds to pre cat bank 2?

Do you have any information on the other items?

I am attempting to eliminate these two mistakes. 2CAB - lambda sensor 2 before to catalyst, temperature 2CA7 - Lambda sensor pre-catalyst 2 heating function Enquiries: Is the lambda probe 2 located before or after the catalytic converter? I acknowledge it states otherwise, but other Google results indicate the contrary, so I wanted to verify. Do the two errors pertain to the same sensor? 3. Upon examining realoem, there are two sets of lambda probes/sensors; could you clarify their distinctions and functions?

That would certainly suffice.

The windows and sunroof must be re-initialized; without initialisation, they will not operate via the remote. The two front windows must completely open and shut with a brief button push; the sunroof should also fully open and close with a short touch.

No, that is unnecessary.

I'm crossing my fingers that you get the long pliers. If they don't work, getting out will be a real pain. Yes, I make foolish decisions and have regretted some of them, but some of them worked. I might even try pushing it all the way to the tank.

Nothing should be put there, in my opinion.

*Enfield, apologies for the typographical error.

Greetings, On Saturday, while driving my BMW M3 G80 in Isle of Man green on a national road in Greater London, specifically Unfield, I maintained a speed of 50 MPH. I observed several attractive women on the pavement and decided to shift into neutral, revving the engine to approximately 8500-9000 RPM. One of the four women glanced at me and laughed, while the other three appeared entirely indifferent. After passing them, I noticed a significant amount of smoke emanating from under the hood, and the cockpit became saturated with a noxious, burnt metal odour. Visibility was severely compromised due to the smoke, prompting me to park on the pavement, completely obstructing it. I quickly shut down the engine using the start-stop button, retrieved the car key, opened the door, and fled the scene. Upon reaching a safer distance, I contacted my roadside assistance service and provided them with the precise position of my vehicle using my mobile GPS application. They informed me that they lacked the ability to tow the car but emphasised the need of not moving the vehicle even slightly. I returned home on foot and contacted the service for updates. They informed me that the police had seized my vehicle. Upon calling the police, they confirmed that they do not possess any cars and stated that I have no outstanding debts, nor is the vehicle associated with any criminal activity. They suggested that the service may have defrauded me, as it is possible they duplicated the key multiple times while in their possession. They indicated that they would investigate the service in relation to my car, but advised me to have no expectations of a positive outcome. Furthermore, I reviewed TikTok in the evening, and the video of me fleeing from my flaming vehicle, filmed by one of the ladies, was uploaded and had around 30,000 likes within three hours.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315396182019?_skw=ISTA&itmmeta=01JNEC4E8D8Z99VWCKGQDWAECF&hash=item496f13d003:g:HzYAAOSwTZZm1yqJ&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cebKVfQcn4aM3DGcqXwhEzmagANXsLLqQ6sJ6raNKp4L6p4vWeVolYcz0KKPljJu1SvP93hWJ8Zij9YKZNHLPVE+BhRLwjtCltuYVHhPz45oMbzRfGvP0/Nf3/aRf1rGF5O4+kgkwV/qIFOOMfRUOU1PpzjCojmUbmSPqzk82nh8Q+5/poDK2tJyo+ui1kFgHKv59wLj2A2rir2gQZiA/f+c6ZupTabc1aafdrH2k7etF1XrlpoD3wOz4PZEGgkBInwHpP2fLL+/1aSlzJpdNH|tkp:Bk9SR6zkkcyrZQ&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858Xd2f73a1b02c2c9acaa7f3c365f0a43ca

Products of this kind claim that they are very simple to configure or provide guidance during the process; nonetheless, it would be beneficial to have feedback from an individual who has used it about its ease of implementation for someone without technical expertise. We apologise for the disruption... I believe the sensors may be confused, however I have remained attentive to that issue. They are discreetly colour-coded, with one containing four cables and the other five. I should verify, although it is improbable that I would have committed that error consecutively. I must admit, it is exasperating at this juncture. Until now, I have contemplated potential solutions, considered various approaches, and examined components in the post, all with the expectation of discovering a remedy. I am now perplexed and making no progress.

Salutations. Upon examining RealOEM, I saw that the connections for both oxygen sensors are positioned above the valve cover, and I have manipulated both connectors and their cabling many times this week. Additionally, there are the connections for the fuel injectors and coils, the MAF sensor, and the sensor connector located on the intake pipe at the front of the engine. I also disconnected the vanos solenoids and the oil control valve. The symptoms of the misfire have almost remained same since the first restart. Everything seems OK, however it begins to malfunction after one or two minutes. However, the codes have inexplicably altered, and coupled with the observation of a hoover leak during the smoke test, it led me to believe that although I may have rectified the first issue, another problem persists. It is unfortunate that the post-catalytic converter sensor does not affect fuelling, among other parameters. That may have constituted an impressive response! Regardless, it seems crucial that the vehicle idles well at first and thereafter begins to misfire after about one minute. That is likely pertinent to an operational change occurring shortly after the chilly start. Is there a standard ISTA kit available for purchase that requires little effort to set up and operate?

this issue. I will try to be concise; but, this has been a week-long ordeal, so I apologies if my account is rather disjointed. The vehicle is a 2011 F11 535i. I rebuilt the valve cover and now see a pronounced misfire at idle around one minute after startup. Code: 12A902 Lambda sensor - short circuit to ground. The whole edition: Last week, I began some tasks that I had been procrastinating on for some time. The valve cover and gasket need replacement due to significant oil accumulation in typical areas, leading me to anticipate a leak from one or both components. Oil shift is imminent. Clean the vanos solenoids and the oil pressure control valve, since I have seen sporadic error codes associated with oil pressure and exhaust vanos. The works need significant disruption, including disconnection of lines and electrical hookups, so I recognise the multitude of possible complications that may arise. During my investigations, I found that the cage inside the oil filter was absent, which I assume contributed to the vanos and oil pressure issues. Nevertheless, I proceeded to clean the solenoids, among other components, since I was already engaged in the task. The OFHG was completed without complications; however, it is noteworthy that the intake manifold required little repositioning, and I did not replace the gaskets, which may have been advisable. The valve cover was changed with no difficulty; but, when purchasing the replacement cover, the only available option I encountered was a Ridex product, which I acquired with much reluctance. In hindsight, I regret not exercising more patience to get a higher quality alternative. Upon reassembling the components, the vehicle initially seemed to start properly; but, after about one minute, it had a significant misfire and displayed error code 102002, indicating an air mass plausibility problem. I reviewed all my work and saw no apparent problems; but, considering Ridex's reputation for subpar quality, I opted to reinstall the original valve cover with a new gasket, since there were no misfire issues before. After repeating all the previous steps, I restarted the vehicle, which initially functioned well; however, it began to misfire again after about one minute. This time, I encountered a different problem. 101F01 - Throttle valve angle - absolute pressure in the intake manifold, comparison: pressure too elevated. At this juncture, I was persuaded that I had either compromised a vacuum line or was displacing the valve cover gasket due to my fitting approach; hence, I resolved to get a smoke test equipment before proceeding further. On Saturday, I activated the smoke machine and saw a wisp or two of smoke originating from the back of the valve cover. Ah, I realised. I have damaged the gasket; yet, there is hope on the horizon. I removed the valve cover for the third time, cleaned and reinstalled the gasket, and ensured it remained properly positioned throughout assembly. On this occasion, I conducted a smoke test prior to reassembling the fuel rail and electrical connections, and I saw no indications of leaking; hence, I proceeded to reassemble all components. This time I started the vehicle, again, starts good, idles smoothly for a minute or two then begins misfiring. Curiously, the only code I received was 12A902, indicating a short circuit to ground in the lambda probe after the catalytic converter. No other faults; nonetheless, the vehicle is idling quite poorly. I saw a little gurgling sound emanating from the PCV valve. Given that this was the original cover and I had invested some time in its restoration, I began to contemplate if I had inadvertently introduced cleaning solution into the PVC region, perhaps leading to obstruction. I opted to remove the valve cover once again and reattach the Ridex unit. Consequently, I executed my tasks yesterday with painstaking attention to detail throughout the process. During the smoke test, there were no indications of leakage whatsoever. I started it again; it idled OK for a minute or two before misfiring, with a recurring 12A902 Lambda fault. That is my current situation. I am quite perplexed, to be honest. I see that I have three alternatives, but I would really appreciate feedback from others. 1. Substitute the post-cat lambda, since I may have damaged it due to the many initial misfires, perhaps associated with hoover leaks that I have now resolved. I read that the lambda is disregarded at the cold start for a brief duration, which aligns with my observations. I am rather hesitant due to the additional £80 expense, which may out to be a complete misdirection, as I had none of these concerns prior to my modifications to the valve cover and input manifold. 2. Acquire ISTA, since I am uncertain about the necessary components to become operational, given that I presently own just Bimmerlink. Perhaps there is further information to be obtained from ISTA or methods I might explore? Tow it to a garage, concede defeat, and provide a blank check. alternative 3 is a last recourse for me, as I am much more inclined towards acquiring knowledge, investing in appropriate equipment for the future, and maintaining cost management; nonetheless, I finally need to rectify the issue, making it a viable alternative. I apologise for the digression. It has been a challenging task. Any assistance would be highly appreciated.

Thank you for your assistance

The 24k offers originated from a luxury automobile dealership.

Greetings, I am requesting guidance about a 2017 M4 Competition with 41,500 kilometres that I have just obtained. The vehicle is in great condition and has several modifications (see to the attached picture). I am aware that it has an aftermarket exhaust system, although I am uncertain of the brand. I have solicited offers for the sale of the automobile, but I am receiving just £23,000 to £24,000. I have seen normal M4s with elevated mileage being sold for over £27,000, therefore I am enquiring if anybody could provide a ballpark estimate of the actual value I would anticipate for mine.

I agree that yearly oil changes or those every 10,000 miles are essential for maintaining engine health; the BMW intervals are detrimental to engine longevity.

Consider Jason at BW Auto Repairs Ltd Unit 8 Alpha Industrial Estate Clayton Road Hayes Middlesex UB3 1BB Telephone: 0208 561 1818 Mobile: 0783 110 3030