IrvesBMW

Indeed, it is accurate.

Apply a generous amount of plus gas to thoroughly saturate it overnight. Assuming that the bolt has a standard head, utilise a socket and breaker bar to attempt to initiate its movement. Subsequently, gently tap it to remove it.

Thank you. Does anybody know the procedure for disabling a missing key? Will the spare key we are using also be deactivated?I apologise for my lack of knowledge on these subjects. Is it performed by authorised BMW dealers or locksmiths?

I would want to express my gratitude to my friends for their valuable remarks. The key remains undiscovered. If the key had been lodged in the crevices of the seat, are I correct in assuming that I should have been able to start the car's ignition? No, it did not. It is likely that the automobile was inadvertently dislodged after being started. Our driveway is monitored with a Ring camera. No one has been seen collecting. Is it possible for the i3 to go a distance of 2 miles without the key being inside the car? Thank you.

I am seeking assistance and would really appreciate it if someone could provide me with support. We own a BMWi3. In order to go shopping, I placed the shopping bags inside the vehicle and left the car key on the driver's seat cushion, which my spouse uses to drive. I desired her to operate the vehicle and proceeded to unlatch the entrance gates to the driveway. Reluctantly, I removed the cushion and occupied the vehicle as my partner rejected to drive. After pressing the start button, the automobile started and we proceeded to the store. After parking the automobile, I deactivated the engine by pressing the button and exited the vehicle. Now the enigma starts. The automobile key eluded my search. When I attempted to start the vehicle, it displayed an error message indicating that the remote control device was not present. Suspecting that I may have misplaced my keys at home, I contacted a friend who graciously offered to drive me there. However, despite our diligent search, we were unable to locate the keys at my residence. We retrieved the additional key and began the vehicle. I have yet to locate the key. As part of an experiment, I started the car's ignition using the auxiliary key and intentionally dropped the auxiliary key. To my astonishment, I successfully operated the vehicle and managed to drive a considerable distance. Subsequently, I returned home by driving. Could someone kindly inform me of the location where I should direct my attention in order to locate my auto key? Has anybody else had a similar experience? Thank you.

I had not previously considered that perspective, but you are correct. I am now contemplating the fact that one of my three vehicles has two tires exhibiting signs of sidewall splitting. I have a preference for Uniroyal tires and unfortunately, their prices have increased. This particular automobile is mostly used on bingo outings.

Although it is not to my own preference, I do not criticise or dismiss them. Inspect for any necessary repairs and also check the date code to ensure that you do not purchase outdated tires.

It may be necessary to click the button to deactivate the engine, after which the electronics will shut down when the door is opened, depending on the idrive configuration. Since I own a 530e, the engine remains inactive while the vehicle is not in motion.

Did you neglect to deactivate the engine by pushing the button? Within the idrive system, there is a specific menu option available that allows you to activate the feature of automatically shutting off the engine when the door is opened. Perhaps using this menu item would be beneficial for your situation. Since I have a keyless system, I am unfamiliar with the purpose of deleting the key.

The M57 engine has a maximum oil capacity of 8 litres. However, it is important to note that overfilling the engine with oil will not conceal any underlying issues if the engine is already in poor condition.

I would accept VWDaveBMW offer and get a quotation for transport services from Shiply or Anyvan.

Locate an alternative BMW dealership. If the consistency of the oil is similar to sludge, it is possible that it was not replaced at the appropriate time. What is the current mileage of the vehicle, and how many miles have you added to it since you bought it?

Yes, I am considering replacing one of the fuel injectors with another. I often notice the smell of gasoline, and it has been more pronounced recently. However, upon discovering a buildup of oil in the chamber, I am contemplating doing a compression test after removing the oil residue.

Gratitude is expressed towards @ChatMaven. In order to confirm an alternative hypothesis, would the presence of a seal problem not result in the depletion of oil from the combustion chamber? Based on my assumption, does the oil go in a downward direction? Unless there is a problem with the seal being broken around the top.

Greetings, I own a BMW 116i, which is a model from 2012 and belongs to the F21 series. An really troublesome automobile. I have successfully resolved the majority of my oil leaks and have seen positive outcomes. Subsequently, there was a misfire detected in cylinder 4. Replaced the spark plugs and coils, however the issue persists in the same cylinder. Disassembled the manifold and saw an accumulation of oil in the combustion chamber of cylinder 4. It is worth mentioning that I saw the presence of oil on the spark plug, both on its surface and around the threads. It seems that the gasket on my valve rocket cover broke, causing a leak into the spark plug. The spark plug was found to be loosely attached and had oil accumulation at the tip, with visible oil present in the surrounding hole. Could the presence of oil in the combustion chamber be solely attributed to oil leakage from the spark plug? I want to do a compression test. I hope that the issue does not include a damaged seal inside the combustion chamber, since I would then have to repair it myself. I have no prior experience in fixing a combustion chamber, which makes me apprehensive about doing so. While I understand that the test will assist me in determining the issue, is it conceivable that the spark plug just facilitated the leakage? Regarding compression testing, I have seen that some automobiles allow for the removal of the fuel line fuse and ignition fuse to facilitate the test. Does this car possess these specific fuses, or are there other processes that need to be followed? Appreciation is extended for your kind gesture.

I would refrain from acquiring a new vehicle that is unsatisfactory. It may be advisable to disengage and seek for an other vehicle. The trader must possess somebody with coding proficiency. My concern is that if you retrieve the automobile and discover that the problem is not only a code issue, you will be left with the car and will have to arrange for it to be fixed or returned. Thank you.

Yes, coding is a very straightforward task that a skilled individual should be capable of doing. Wishing you success.

Did they using authentic BMW software for coding?

The object is devoid of any dirt or rust, and moreover, it has previously been ruled out as the source of the malfunction. (It is worth mentioning that for the e90, you just need to replace the ring, not the hub.) The problem seems to be an electrical malfunction, since it is resolved when the vehicle is starting with a fully charged battery and only happens again after the car has been parked for many hours (which is why I replaced the battery). I am presently contemplating if the starting motor, or another component, is responsible for a voltage decrease and disrupting the computer during a cold start-up. The next step I suggest is to start the car's ignition and thereafter reset the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) computer by removing the fuse. Then, observe whether the issue persists without any problems.

I am now experiencing difficulties specifically with the right wheel speed sensor and the steering wheel position sensor. There are no instances of low voltage or any other diagnostic trouble code (DTC) computer faults.

Seeking assistance from someone knowledgeable. I am experiencing difficulties with the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System), DTC (Dynamic Traction Control), and other related systems on my 2005 E90 320D. The issue originated from the occurrence of front right ABS sensor problems. I have replaced the sensor, inspected the reluctor ring, examined the wires, and performed other routine diagnostic procedures. Now, let me explain. When I start the vehicle in the morning after it has been parked overnight and begin driving, the dashboard illuminates with several warning lights like a Christmas tree, and the ABS/DTS system becomes deactivated. Upon inspection, the codes indicate a problem with the front right ABS sensor, namely related to difficulties with the power supply, lack of signal, or implausible readings. Additionally, I have intermittent occurrences of a steering wheel position sensor error, as well as infrequent malfunctions of the speedometer. Operate the vehicle over a substantial distance, preferably 20-30 miles or more. Bring the vehicle to a halt, remove the key from the ignition, and then start the engine once again. As a result, all the lights will cease to illuminate, and there will be no more complications for the remainder of the trip, even if I take a little pause lasting 3 to 4 hours. When I leave the vehicle overnight, the issue reoccurs and persists until I take the car for an extended drive. Replaced the battery because of its age and slightly reduced voltage. The problem persists, but I am certain that it is caused by a power issue that is disrupting the computer, or maybe the battery backup for memory is malfunctioning. Does anybody have any suggestions?

It is necessary to replace the Teflon seals and decoupling element while reinstalling the injectors.

In such scenario, I would expect a potential problem with the injectors, since the n43 injectors are known to be of subpar quality. Remove the spark plugs and inspect their condition to see whether they are covered with soot. It is advisable to check the items the next day to see whether any of them are also moist. Did you install an authentic low pressure sensor?

The issue with the 2AAF code on our e91 was resolved by replacing the low pressure sensor located on the fuel piping on the right-hand side of the rocker cover. I do not believe that is the root cause of the misfire on cylinder 3 problem. I suggest attempting to resolve the issue by exchanging the coil pack with another cylinder and seeing whether the error reoccurs. The issue with the map thermostat is most likely due to a requirement for a replacement thermostat.

Please refrain from installing low-quality accessories such as carbon eyebrows on your vehicle. Although it may provide entertainment when seen on the road, it is important to note that such modifications are considered tacky and associated with a lower social class.