Howard_silver

I am now considering the removal of the cylinder head and oil sump, extracting the pistons, replacing the valve stem oil seals, removing all the valves, thoroughly cleaning all components, and reseating the valves. Prior to dismantling the engine, I want to do some preliminary tests. However, my primary objective is to determine the vacuum level at idle. It is important to ascertain if the rocker cover is functioning well. If you agree, I will proceed to immerse the pistons in a substance that has the ability to dissolve carbon deposits. Prior to commencing the disassembly of the engine, I have many tasks that I will attend to. I have previously replaced the rocker cover gasket and removed the sump to replace the oil pump solenoid. The inside of the engine is pristine. The performance is flawless, with the exception of the oil consumption problem. I want to ensure that the piston crowns are free from dirt and that the piston grooves are clean, while also ensuring that the oil control rings are not adhering or sticking. If there is no improvement, then the necessary actions will be taken, such as replacing the cylinder head, removing the oil sump, and addressing any other required repairs, such as replacing the timing chain and water pump. I will remove the engine and dismantle it, replacing any components that show signs of wear.

Greetings, I have been researching the aforementioned prevalent problem online. I believe the issue is in the oil control rings of the engine. Based on my observations, driving 100 miles on a motorway often results in the use of around 500 millilitres of oil. Regrettably, I have replaced the oil separator breather, but there has been no difference. I am now contemplating the replacement of the complete valve cover with a new original equipment manufacturer (OEM) one. When I remove the oil filler cap, I see a significant vacuum at idling. Presumably, the vacuum level is considered normal while the engine is at idle. According to my reading, there are two non-return valves located inside the valve cover, which have the potential to get obstructed. I am attempting to determine if the absence of vacuum at idle while removing the oil filler cap is a typical occurrence or maybe indicative of a malfunction with the rocker cover. The mileage is around 115,000. The engine is clean inside and there are no fault codes. However, the rear of the exhaust is covered with soot. The average fuel efficiency over the last 1000 miles is nearly 50 miles per gallon. I would very appreciate any advise from other members. Additionally, I have seen that I own an incorrect vacuum pump, since it is equipped with a small outlet intended for the N18 engine, which is now blocked off. I am certain that my engine is the N16. Finally, use BMW LL04 specification oil with a viscosity grade of 5w30. Thank you in advance

Let us hope that they do not damage or spoil Bugattis.

Are you experiencing an auxiliary battery error?

A significant number of discs labelled as "GERMAN" are manufactured in other countries. It is advisable to search for discs that are really produced in Germany. ATE was once manufactured in Germany, although it is uncertain whether this is still the case. Porsche will not manufacture their own discs, but they may require stricter standards from the vendors they choose. https://911uk.com/threads/who-supplies-porsche-with-brake-discs.121661/

From whence do you get these manuals?

I purchased the lenses from a vendor on Ali-Express. These goods are not available for individual purchase as OEM products. Nevertheless, they are simply made of transparent polycarbonate material. I have never come across rear lenses that are sold individually. Generally, rear lights are more affordable than headlights, which is why most individuals choose to replace the whole set.

I personally completed the task on my own for a total cost of £350.00. It is not too challenging for a proficient do-it-yourself enthusiast. The photo below shows the previous lenses in their original position prior to the installation of the new ones.

What is the reason for not doing it? Yes, I do! Exhibit intelligence. It is not possible to purchase a Rover that is 10 years or older and expect the dealer to accept any amount of money without question. To be eligible for participation in Rovership, one must possess a high level of intelligence, a low level of intelligence, or a significant amount of wealth. These dealerships specifically target customers that fall into the second and third demographic segments. Conduct a comparison between your car and a Toyota Land Cruiser. At that age, they are about three times more expensive. Used Rovers are inexpensive for a specific reason. You must locate an autonomous establishment that is not inclined to deceive or overcharge you.

To remove the residue, first remove the badge. Then, saturate a piece of kitchen roll with petrol and apply it to the residue. Allow it to sit for 30 minutes before simply scraping off the residue. I have recently used the double-sided number plate tape and it came off in less than a minute. I had been attempting to remove a substance by scraping for almost 30 minutes using WD40 and other methods, but I did not make any progress.

The performance of this product is excellent, with fast and efficient operation.

Due of the latest modifications to my garage lineup, I am facing significant problems. Laughing out loud However, you only have one opportunity, and sometimes it is necessary to indulge in self-care.

Is it preferable to possess knowledge rather than remain ignorant? By purchasing it, you can ensure that this exemplary item is going to a suitable home.

Ultimately, it is really a matter of finances.... 😈 Perform the task. Perform the task...

I am pleased to report that everything has been successfully resolved. The steering wheel adaptor effectively performs its function, resulting in a fully operational system. It is only a question of locating the appropriate individual who has the necessary equipment. Thank you everyone for your assistance.

I have successfully located the necessary equipment, and it is now being sent to me. It is just an adapter that attaches to the squib and enables it to function properly.Will provide an update after the installation process is completed.

Fortunately, no harm has occurred as I have reinstalled the old wheel and everything is functioning well, exactly as it was before. It seems that I only need someone who can execute the technique you have advised. There is hope for a resolution, and I appreciate your assistance.

I have also learned that transferring the squib from the old wheel to the new one is effective. However, I have not personally attempted this yet. I understand that the squib refers to the whole wire harness in the airbag system.

This vehicle is from a more recent model of the C-Class, therefore it has not been downgraded. However, it requires the correct programming to be completed. Thank you for your message.

Hello, thank you for your message. I followed the necessary steps to detach the battery and watched an informative YouTube video on how to remove it. However, I have been informed that because the battery is from a later model of the C class, it would need programming to be compatible with the vehicle. I am hoping that someone who has experience with this will provide guidance on how to proceed.

Thank you for your response. However, I was disappointed to learn that after paying £550, the option I want was not available. I was informed that it can be installed, but it requires some kind of programming. This is the specific assistance I am seeking.

Hello everyone, I have just replaced the steering wheel of my 2016 220 w205 with a 2019 model. However, I am now seeing two error codes and the horn and buttons are not functioning properly. The error codes are as follows: The user's text is "B00012B". The squib for the driver's airbag, also known as stage 1, is a component of the vehicle's safety system. A malfunction has occurred due to a short circuit between the electrical lines. The B000213 code indicates a malfunction in the driver's airbag stage 2 squib, specifically an open circuit. Could someone provide guidance on the necessary steps and requirements?

Currently, you are experiencing the absence of your wife. I suggest contacting the fire brigade immediately.

Over time, intake pipes become rigid and fragile, causing them to lose their grip and perhaps leading to an increase in RPM.

Is there a vacuum leak originating from the intake hoses?