Mistral

Never heard of them specifically but there’s loads of these companies floating about now repo cars can be decent value but also depends what you’re getting. Some are fine, some have clearly been neglected If it’s priced well below the market I’d be asking why before anything else

Is the 12V AGM battery something you changed out on your own?

I agree with you. After much Googling, I've come to the conclusion that it is recommended to change the Auxiliary Capacitor (voltage converter) together with the 12V battery anytime it is replaced. I had the car since it was 8 months old, therefore I assume both parts are original. They are now approximately 7 years old.

Even though I use my C63S occasionally, it often sits unused in the garage for weeks at a time. It's probably because the car is over seven years old and still uses the original battery, but I'm well-acquainted with the "Starter Battery" alerts that come up from inactivity. I fix it by slowly charging it, and then it works for a time. It wasn't the Starter Battery, but rather the "12V Battery" that prompted a fresh warning yesterday. It's likely that I haven't received this notification previously. At the moment, it's charging. It's due for a big repair next month, but I'm afraid they'll charge me a fortune to replace the battery, even though I've done it previously on other cars—my Jaguar XKR being the most recent—so I'm considering doing it myself. Given that it mentions a Starter Battery and a 12V battery, I'm unsure about the total number of batteries in this vehicle. According to my research, there is a single 12V battery located under the hood (or bonnet, in American English) on the passenger side; I attach the positive connector of the charger to this battery. It appears like there's an auxiliary device in the footwell that's not easy to access, but it's definitely an electrical gadget and not a battery. So, I'm hoping you can shed some light on the following questions: 1. What's the deal with the two separate warning messages for the 12V battery and the starter battery? The "Starter Battery" alerts are resolved by charging the "main" battery, so why is there a difference? 2. When it comes to a 2019 C63S, which battery do you think would be the best replacement? Thirdly, is it really essential to reset codes after changing the battery? A quick Google search reveals that many individuals have successfully swapped the batteries without needing to reset the passcode. They could refuse to reset the codes during next month's servicing because they didn't supply or install the replacement batteries, but I was wondering whether it was possible. Much obliged.

Alternatively, you may enter it privately in the next Nurburgring 24h, where another EVO II has already raced.

https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/mc26/lots/r0045-1990-mercedesbenz-190-e-2516-evolution-ii/#/smallgallery_1435378

One for twenty-four thousand dollars?

Not sure because I'm not into mapping (I bought one without mapping), but I believe they also make a map for the box. I'm quite sure I've seen it mentioned in some of the posts here. From what I've observed in the posts here, it seems like the generic maps are causing problems, thus it's best to acquire a custom one.

A plaque will be located beneath the hood or on your weight plate, displaying the maximum figure in the corner, typically less than 1.5; this is the maximum for earlier vehicles lacking the plate. My 2009 ALFA featured the number on the plate; therefore, your 2014 model will probably certainly have it as well.

I ponder whether debris from the damaged gauze filter is obstructing the central valve, preventing the actuator from depressing it, hence causing the actuator housing to be displaced outward. I cannot get the reason for its oscillation when idle.

Here is a link demonstrating the motion of the vanos actuator.

I am receiving error codes 130F11, indicating an exhaust camshaft plausibility fault, and 120408, which pertains to boost pressure control, specifically a blocked cut-off pressure rise. Research indicates that the boost error arises from the camshaft error rather than the actual defect. While the engine is idling, I observe the plastic vanos actuator housing oscillating in and out, away from the cam cover. The spring clips are insufficiently robust to secure the housing firmly against the cam cover, resulting in the actuator displacing it instead of actuating the central vanos valve. It has been recommended that I substitute the huge O-ring (seal) encasing the actuator within the cam cover, as well as the spring clips securing the actuator, due to their tendency to weaken and become more malleable with time. Has anyone encountered this previously and can confirm if the clips, among other components, serve as the solution?

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Thank you for your response. I have removed the antenna (bag) situated near the ignition switch, as well as the chip and the DAS module located behind the dashboard of the W140. Initially, I saw a "FAULT DAS" message; but, upon locating the precise DAS diagram, the issue vanished, enabling me to access and interpret engine trouble codes such as P0431.