Howard_silver

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1A12-EUR-06-2012-F20-BMW-116i&diagId=11_5012

In the same vein as before, the coolant temperature sensor is probably not connected or has an open circuit. Section 5 located behind the skull.

Yes, I was considering that as well. I'll place it in S and paddle to fourth for half an hour to observe its behaviour; if it remains after that, who knows?

About eight months ago, I had the low pressure fuel pump replaced. After doing some research on the old Internet, I was given three potential issues. 1. A Maf indicator The throttle body should be cleaned. 3. The exhaust's oxygen sensor Should I pay attention until a caution triangle appears, at which point I can decipher the code? Would it be simple to clean or make changes to the above? I would want to do it myself if possible. Much obliged.

When the engine becomes hot, it occurs.

Greetings everyone, I've been fortunate enough to possess my Evoque 2.2 Sd4 for the past two years; thus far, I've only had to repair the haldex, fuel pump, and passenger door lock. However, today it seems like my good fortune may have finally run out. My issue is that in both forward and backward gears, when I come to a stop at lights, I have harsh idling, where the rev counter decreases and then rises again in a matter of seconds 🤔 There are no lights on the dashboard, and nothing appears on the scanner. I would really appreciate any assistance you can provide. Much obliged.

If it's like the later X5, removing the arch liner and access panels will give you better access. In my opinion, it's practically feasible to keep turbo in there.

I suppose MB no longer places the folded printed fuse legend in the small slot next to the fuses here? I suppose in an effort to cut costs. When did that finish? That was in my S203 C class back in 2006. A once-great "tool" that is definitely long gone 😞

On eBay, you can get an ELM327 OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter for next to nothing, and the Torque app, which can read it, is available for free on Android.

Indeed, I will explore local options to identify any electric vehicle specialists capable of updating and reprogramming the ECU. Currently, the ECU appears to recognise the prior 7Kw battery as installed, thereby treating the replacement battery as if it were the defective one. Additionally, it is unclear whether the ECU retains information regarding the fault of the old battery, which could influence its charging and usage protocols. Consequently, updating and recoding the ECU would reset these parameters, ensuring the proper utilisation of the replacement battery. I remain hopeful!

Indeed, I suspected that would be the situation; but, I am uncertain how to proceed. Ultimately, the crucial aspect is that the vehicle is operational, powered by electricity, without any warnings or faults; however, it would be preferable to perform the task thoroughly. Thank you.

Greetings, I need guidance on the necessary steps to take following the installation of a replacement high-voltage battery in my 2016 225xe. The physical procedure seems to have proceeded successfully, as a pre-owned HV battery was acquired and a local EV specialist replaced the defective HV battery with the new one. The vehicle operates effectively, exhibiting no errors (auditory alerts, warnings, or drivetrain error messages). Although the range appears to have improved, the range indicator on the EV battery screen continues to reflect the previous battery range of 10 miles (originally a 7kW battery), despite achieving greater distance with the newly installed 10kW battery. Is a software upgrade or reset necessary to inform the vehicle about the new HV batteries, enabling accurate range display and proper charging? Thank you very much.

Legally, the vendor can have you sign whatever document they want. Having said that, the buyer assumes most of the risk when making a private transaction.

It is highly probable that this is one of those cases where MB part numbers have been revised or replaced.

The client claims the problem worsened over time; nonetheless, a new problem has emerged: the vehicle suddenly stops cranking. I connected it to a charger after seeing the warning "low battery, please start the car" on the dashboard, but the engine still wouldn't crank. Could it be just a blown fuse, or is there anything more serious going on? By the way, I was wondering if you had any recommendations for a good VCI to utilise with ISTA right now; I'm having trouble measuring injector flow with my current diagnostic tools (XTool D8S and Autocom).