Howard_silver

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Indeed, it was cleverly concealed within another article! Apologies.

Thank you, but I am uncertain if you noticed that both I and the vehicle are located in France. Since 2021, the transportation of goods between France and the UK has become more complex than it was previously. Value Added Tax and import duty are required when goods cross the borders in both directions. Additionally, a handling fee applies.

Because it is a highly unpredictable endeavour. Indeed, it may be successful, but I prefer to accomplish the task in a single attempt.

WDC1631542A327127 What is the significance of that change?

Greetings, I have recently joined in the hope that someone can assist with a problem. The automobile is a 2002 ML320, with a VIN concluding in A327127. The vehicle is equipped with Brembo callipers on all sides; however, I have broken the bleed nipples on both rear callipers and wish to replace them. Parts fiches indicate a part number alteration at VIN A343161; however, suppliers of new components only reflect a change at VIN A289560, coinciding with the transition to Brembo brakes. From A289560 to A343161, the rear right calliper has a Brembo part number A1634230198; beyond A343161, it changes to A1634230898. A comparable alteration exists for the left side. Is this merely a minor alteration, involving components sourced from a different Brembo facility, slight modifications in shape, etc., or is it a significant change? My primary concern is whether these two versions of the Brembo rear calliper are interchangeable. Can anyone assist?

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Thank you for the valuable information. Outcomes of alternator and battery examinations: I recorded measurements directly from the battery; my multimeter can only display one decimal point. I trust this is adequate. Battery voltage after overnight rest: 12.3V (fluctuating to 12.2V) Battery voltage after 10 minutes of using headlights and warning lights: 12.1 volts Battery voltage after 3 minutes of engine operation: 13.7V Engine operational, lights, back window, and heated blowers: 13.1 volts Please share your thoughts. This afternoon, I will attempt to remove the battery and inspect the ground for stability, as suggested by the other respondent. Additionally, I possess an other battery that I may substitute for testing. Would it be prudent to replace it to determine if there is a variation in voltage?

I will examine that, thank you.

Understood, I will adhere to that and incorporate it into the original post if possible. Thank you for the clear directions! I am grateful for your notification.

I conducted a brief review but did not find anything that aligns with my specific circumstances, so I decided to submit in hopes of receiving insight or being directed to the appropriate resource. I possess a 2004 Mondeo MK3 Ghia X equipped with a 3.0L V6 Duratec engine. The problem is that while driving, the interior electronics (as detailed below) and the headlights intermittently activate and deactivate, which is clearly problematic. I initially believed the battery was failing; however, upon testing, it registered 13 volts after remaining idle without the engine running for a whole day. The battery measures 14 volts with the engine running and 16 volts with the headlights activated, indicating that the alternator appears to be functioning properly. Consistently initiates on the first attempt and engages and disengages properly. I suspect the problem may stem from a loose connection; nevertheless, I am not a mechanic and lack certainty. The brake lights function properly and have never malfunctioned, even when all other systems are deactivated; this same applies to the indicators, power steering, and the engine. I am pleased to address enquiries and furnish further information if required. Have any similar difficulties been observed? Is there anyone who can identify a probable cause? Devices that have been activating and deactivating intermittently: Dash cluster (all gauges simultaneously) Power windows Climate-controlled seats Blower fans Thermal displays Radio or head unit Headlight assembly (comprising sidelights, dipped beam, and main beam integrated into a single unit) Thank you for any responses.

Concur with others; replace the battery with a reputable brand. My CEED exhibits same behaviour, with erratic warnings gradually increasing in frequency until the battery is changed.

While not a significant issue, it does seem rather inexpensive; at times, options may be limited. If a tyre is required, you may need to choose from the available options.

An stunning transformation; nothing surpasses meticulous craftsmanship.

I will attempt it; thank you for the encouragement.

I have not used the Kia Connect app for charging; the schedule is configured in the Ovo app to charge to 100% by 6 AM, with the car plugged in at 5 PM the previous evening. However, it fails to begin charging (the Kia Connect app indicates it is not plugged in). I believe this is the source of the problem, since the OVO app is linked to the Kia app, and I suspect the car is not reporting its connected status. All additional information is provided in both applications, including current charge percentage and range, among others.

I believed that the OVO app required interaction with the Kia Connect app to facilitate charging; however, I will uninstall the Connect app from my phone and attempt to charge without it, as I am eager to explore all options. Thus far, I have been unable to charge at home unless utilizing the Wallbox app, which does not provide access to the cheaper tariff, hence my reliance on the OVO Energy app.

I have just acquired an EV6 as a corporate vehicle, installed a Sync2 home charger, and use Ovo Energy for charging at any time. Unable to establish a connection for scheduled charging with the OVO Energy app. When the car is linked, the dashboard indicates a connection with the illumination of the green cable light; yet, the Kia Connect app displays it as not plugged in. The Ovo Energy app interacts directly with the Kia Connect app, leading me to believe it perceives a lack of connection, hence preventing the initiation of charging. The vehicle will begin charging upon command using the Sync2 app; however, you will not benefit from reduced rates until using the Ovo Energy app. Any assistance is welcome.

If you are in proximity to Bedford, I will come and do the task for you.

I had a same issue, except with a Jeep rather than a Mercedes (which had a Mercedes engine at the time). Following advise from a site, I unplugged the battery overnight, and the error did not reappear.

You may have difficulty in obtaining the precise hue. I had a similar issue when purchasing my vehicle; attempts to match the colour were unsatisfactory, ultimately leading me to have them professionally done.

I wanted to inform you that after visiting a local Mercedes-Benz specialist who merely reset the Engine Management Light, I opted to purchase a real Mercedes-Benz sensor, as it was their subsequent recommendation. I am uncertain why the Bosch unit I installed last year was ineffective; it may be counterfeit, but I cannot verify this. I successfully procured an authentic new MB part directly from Germany through eBay for £103, in contrast to nearly £300 from Sytner Newcastle, not accounting for the potential markup and labour costs if a professional had provided and installed it. After removing and reinstalling the component several times, including refitting the original MB part, I completed the replacement in under 10 minutes, as the lower covers were already removed. I rectified the problems, and we have completed approximately twelve flights from a cold start. Previously, the EML would activate after 3-4 visits, and I observed several 'pending' problems on my code reader prior to that. It successfully passed its MOT today without any prior manipulation, so I am optimistic that this resolves the issue. I anticipate achieving substantial mileage from this replacement part, and I expect the MPG will return to the prior mid-40s during a run, rather than just over 40 MPG. The implication is to exclusively utilise authentic MB components; nevertheless, I believe that companies like Bosch should be competent enough to perform well, particularly given the exorbitant costs imposed by MB at retail. It is advantageous to compare prices and engage in some do-it-yourself activities.

I appreciate that; but, I always manage to clear the EML, and it remains off for several days. I am merely hoping to pass the MOT with the light extinguished. I may address the matter at my convenience.

That appears unfavourable. It is really unfortunate that the vehicle has only endured 38,000 miles. The back O2 sensor occasionally registers around 0.200V with few fluctuations, whilst the pre-catalytic converter sensor exhibits erratic behaviour. I have utilised a cat cleaner in the vehicle; nevertheless, it seems to have little effect. I tend to view additives as quite desperate measures, to be frank. The vehicle may fail the MOT on emissions if the catalytic converter is malfunctioning, irrespective of whether the engine management light is illuminated at that moment. On the positive side, I can replace it independently; however, on the negative side, it will not be inexpensive if it proves to be the issue. 😞

Thank you for your response, alpaco45. I have inspected the wiring from the sensor to the best of my ability, albeit it vanishes into the loom within the confines of the engine compartment. Additionally, verified the earth continuity to the sensor's body, which measured approximately 0 ohms, indicating a satisfactory connection. The pre-catalytic converter sensor activates, as you indicated, once it reaches operational temperature, while both the pre- and post-catalytic converter sensors appear to initiate at a constant voltage during open-loop mode during warm-up, with typical 'cold start' values of 1.275V for the pre-catalytic converter and 0.200V for the post-catalytic converter. Infrequently, when starting from a cold state, the post-catalytic converter oxygen sensor displays 0.000 volts during open loop mode; however, it is uncertain if this is a misleading indicator. I operated the vehicle as my wife observed the live data, and the two sensors appeared to fluctuate in unison after they reached optimal temperature, with the pre-catalytic converter value generally elevated and the lambda reading approximately 1.000 as well. I have thoroughly inspected the exhaust from beneath and seen no visible or audible signs of a leak. I have seen a high-pitched screech when the engine is shut off, which has been occurring for an extended period prior to the illumination of the EML. The scream ceases when the throttle body undergoes a reset (I can detect a clicking sound from that region after powering off), but it occasionally reemerges. I have attempted to identify the source of the scream; but, its intermittent nature complicates the determination of whether applying pressure to a pipe or component influences it. I believe I may need to consult an expert regarding Star. I detest capitulating, and I wish to prevent them from indiscriminately hurling components at the vehicle in an attempt to rectify it; therefore, I aim to ensure that I have thoroughly examined all possibilities beforehand. I will need to subject it to the MOT to determine whether any issues are identified. I have a family visit approaching, therefore I will have limited time for repair work following the MOT due to poor scheduling. I am disinclined to undertake a 300-mile drive in our Alfa Mito, therefore I may ultimately resort to renting a vehicle at this pace. 😞 The EML activates earlier when my wife operates the vehicle.I typically drive more cautiously, whereas she accelerates more aggressively between traffic signals. The EML may activate after two drives with her, whereas it may require over five drives with me; nevertheless, I am uncertain how to interpret this. 😄