Howard_silver

The garage has not previously indicated any issues, but, I may bring the vehicle in for further inspection and verification. The battery is an intriguing subject, since it is maybe the prototype battery. I am uncertain about the identification of the batch or date code. Do you have any insights or suggestions on this matter? Would it be beneficial if I were to include some visual illustrations in the form of photographs?

Greetings, everyone. I am experiencing a problem with the Digital Information System (DIS) whereby it sometimes powers off without any discernible cause. The device has the potential to remain inactive for extended periods of time, only to resume functioning in an unpredictable manner. During the course of this week, I found myself situated in a line, whereupon I proceeded to engage with the electric windows. Subsequently, an occurrence transpired wherein the display ceased to function. When the device is turned on, it operates flawlessly without any display-related complications or other malfunctions. When the vehicle is deactivated, it also disables the telephone controls situated on the steering wheel. I attempted to reactivate the device by using the switch located on the right-hand side of the lower portion of the device. However, this action proved ineffective in reactivating the device or eliciting any kind of reaction. The observed phenomenon seems to be indicative of a power line fault; however, I am currently lacking the necessary knowledge or guidance to start the process of identifying and resolving the issue. I do not possess expertise in vehicle electrical systems, but rather possess a diverse set of talents as an engineer. Has anybody seen a such phenomenon or can someone direct me to a suitable resource to commence my research? The wiring diagrams that have been encountered so far have not proven to be especially informative. I express my gratitude in anticipation.

The White Magic Eraser may be considered a viable option for experimentation. The cost of purchasing 10 pads is around £2.

It is advisable to exercise caution while considering the purchase of "remanufactured" compressors. I acquired a component from Arnott, which proved to be a pre-owned item that had been repainted black. However, it was discovered that many of the air tube fittings had been damaged, leaving the component non-functional. It is worth noting that these fittings are integral to the compressor and are not available for individual purchase from Audi. I just became aware of this situation when my previous compressor malfunctioned, leaving my vehicle elevated on jackstands on a Saturday. I encountered a predicament when Audi quoted a price of $1200 for the required component. I recollected seeing information on an online platform indicating that Mercedes Benz used a same component. I visited the nearby Mercedes-Benz dealership and was pleasantly surprised to find that a new compressor was available for purchase for a price of around $325, with a discount applied to the final cost. I simply need to integrate the wiring connection by splicing and used gasoline line as a means to link the MB air fitting to my vehicle. Not too intricate for the majority of amateur mechanics that engage in automotive repairs as a hobby, such as myself. The product functions well and reliably, and its novelty eliminates any uncertainty over the durability of previously owned or refurbished components. The part number for the MB component is 211-320-03-04. It is worth noting that Arnott did agree to accept the return of the item; however, they declined to provide a refund for the shipping costs. In the event that one of my bags becomes worn out, I anticipate a more favorable outcome with regard to their durability, since the price point is rather enticing.

I have used the Alcoholics Anonymous (AA) program on several occasions. During my experience with the S197 vehicle, when returning from a track event held at Dunsfold, I had a situation where a van was sent to diagnose the fault codes and afterwards arranged for recovery. The whole service provided was commendable. On the second occasion, my son contacted the service provider after experiencing difficulties with the immobiliser system on his previous model of the Defender. The service provider swiftly sent a technician who attempted to circumvent the malfunctioning immobiliser. Subsequently, I arrived at the location and proceeded to circumvent the ignition system in order to start its operation. To be equitable, I had a greater familiarity with the fuel/ignition mechanism; but, I speculate that he would have comprehended it eventually. Although it may not be inexpensive, if one own a substantial number of automobiles, the cost becomes rather reasonable.

The competence of the car's handlers is readily apparent. The condition is excellent.

That's correct, however the circumstances under which regeneration is possible are what vary depending on whether or not flaps are present. If the engine achieves normal operating temperature while the flaps are in place, regeneration may occur even in city driving. You won't notice a difference with or without the flaps if you do a lot of interstate driving.

Hi, If you want to deFAP your 2009 320d E91, I would advise against removing the swirl flaps. It seems to me that doing so made regeneration of the DPF more challenging, which in turn led to more frequent soot buildup. I've written about the soot accumulation with and without the swirl flaps. After much deliberation, I decided to purchase a replacement manifold on eBay. With the proper socket, swapping out the intake manifold is a quick and painless process. If there is an air leak at the intercooler connection, the engine will misfire because of a poor air/fuel ratio. Best of luck!

This is just a brief update. The problem was traced to the cam adjusters and a damaged rail guide.

Whee! I get to be the one to write a "welcome to the forum" message. The Land Rover was the first thing that sprang to me when I heard the term "rover," but then I recalled the Rover Sedans that BL had imported. When I first heard about Land Rovers, I pictured the dealer in Grand Junction, Colorado, maybe around 1968 or 1972. Aside from Toyotas, they also sold Land Cruisers. Was there a potential for bias there?

Update: I was unable to collect enough money to purchase the vehicle, but they are not destroying it for parts. They have decided to sell off the vehicle since it is in too excellent a condition to be destroyed. I appreciate everyone's kind words and am including the auction link below. https://auctions.asm-autos.co.uk/vehicle-list/details/1999-audi-a4-quattro-2771cc-petrol-5-speed-4-door-saloon--not-recorded--at-asm-auto-recycling-ltd-asm-auto-recyling-ltd/580034?x=0&type=9&memr=32&make=AUDI&trns=0&fuel=0&catc=0&dist=0&sort=0&srch=

I was phoned today and told that the bodyshell would be smashed tomorrow after being stripped. Perhaps Fate has other plans:)

Thank you for your assistance, however I was able to get the vehicle returned without it.

Many thanks for your help. Thank you very much.🫠

We appreciate the $10 thus far, Ian. 😃

Hi Even though it broke his heart to let it go, "needs must" since he hasn't been feeling well.

Greetings, everyone This is a really odd request, and I suspect it violates the rules of the forum, but I'm at a loss for who else to ask. We had a great time at Audis in the Park in August of 2017, and some of you may remember us and our Audi A4 from that day. I was devastated when my dad sold my Audi a few of weeks ago, even though the new owner promised to take good care of it and restore it to its former glory, and I am a devoted Audi aficionado. Sadly, I found out a few days after selling the Audi that it had been taken to a nearby scrap yard. You can understand my anger and disappointment upon hearing this. Everyone who shares my passion for Audis would agree that this vehicle, with her 2.8 v6 engine, is much too wonderful to be destroyed and made into a washing machine. Since my father is now in a financial bind and unable to replace his vehicle, I would really appreciate the opportunity to retrieve it and get it back on the road. I have to return the automobile to the junkyard by Monday, but it will cost me £300. Can anybody provide a hand in making this a reality? It would be fantastic and very appreciated if you could provide a hand in any form. If you're able to assist in any way, please click the link below. http://paypal.me/JacquesBurnard .

I appreciate everyone who responded. There is a lot to consider. Skodatezzer In what ways do you find yours to be ideal? I'm so sorry this has happened to you. If not the Vrs, then what would you recommend?

Excuse me, As the name would imply. I'm considering getting a new car in the new year to replace my 59-plate Ford Focus ST. I'm leaning toward a used Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0 petrol from the last several months. I was hoping to get some feedback from anybody who has driven either the manual or DSG versions of this vehicle. We would also appreciate hearing any potential additions to the list. Thanks a lot

And make a new topic about it.

This is ridiculous behavior on the part of a Main Dealer; nevertheless, it is not unexpected, and the more individuals who condone such shady practices, the more they will continue to do it. You made it quite clear what you wanted them to do, but they chose to disregard your instructions in favor of a speedy "non-fix" that resulted in a hefty fee. There are a few choices available to you, the first of which is to file a formal grievance with Mercedes Customer Service, or to write a scathing online review on Google that should create results since it will be viewed by everyone, including Merc CS, and/or to visit MCOL - Money Claim Online - Welcome in order to get your money back. My latest attempt to use the Google review was successful, but the worst that anybody can do is put up with this ridiculously overpriced trash. Best of luck, and please keep us updated....

Ocean Blue is my favourite.

This ^ If money isn't too tight, a new one would be best.

replaced I made mine about seven years ago because my hardlines were rusting. It's still working great, but getting the flanges ready took skill, patience, and a few tries. I wouldn't buy anything until you know for sure where the leak is. The paint bubbles will cause a lot of rust, so you should take care of them as soon as possible. They are also a sign of a continuing problem in the system. It may not be a bad MC, but a bad joint on the DIY lines. check all of the links. I bought my MC on EBAY and got lucky because it was good. Don't buy cheap aftermarket brands like Dorman, which use cheap rubber inside and will give you ghosting problems. If you can, get one from AutoZone or a local store that lets you return things. I hate ACDelco, but it might be your best bet at AutoZone. Note that when the brakes on these cars are working perfectly, they're about as good as a 25-year-old Honda with 25-year-old brake fluid. Just so you know.

After trying out three different head protection options, I finally settled on a motorcycle helmet owing to the superior noise suppression it offers. Has to be stated that the internal drop-down shaved visor and the lift-up front are both excellent features. It's a Schuberth C3 Pro, which is pricey but well worth the investment. IMO However, it will not be suitable for the sprint or the race since it does not match the requirements.