QuirkEinstein

I am hoping to get it to one of the Indi that I have contacted.

Greetings, everyone! Might mean a lot of things, but it's not really clear. My 2013 Mercedes C220 CDI AMG line with an OM651 engine has covered 167k miles with the sole problem of a split turbo pipe. Has received routine maintenance and, up until this point, has performed admirably, pulling and driving like new. For your information, an ECU remap was performed on it approximately nine years ago. I can attach a video if needed; I only noticed a loud engine sound and haven't driven since. The car is trembling slightly, the knock is audible, and it idles less than ideal. On rare occurrences, the knocking stops, and the engine starts up normally; nevertheless, on occasion, it starts up again. The question now is, is it worth repairing because it's an injector knock, is it worth it because it's a bottom end knock, or is it something else entirely? I'm trying to get an appointment with a Mercedes specialist to diagnose it, but it's taking longer than expected because most of them are booked up weeks in advance. Icarsoft does not display any error codes, and the engine light is not on, by the way.

Good point, and I hope it's common courtesy; I did it when I scheduled it in, and I'll do it again when I drop it off.

This might potentially be a problem.

Yesterday I got a flat tyre and the warning system worked great. I followed the directions to a T for using the onboard repair kit. Even though the tyre was obviously still inflating, my primary worry was that the compressor gauge stopped rising at 20 psi. After switching to my own pump, I noticed that the tyre pressure was higher than 40 psi, which is obviously not ideal. The tyre had the sealant poured into it, but after a long drive, it didn't seem to have made any difference. This afternoon, I will change the tyre and, later on, I will explain the reason for the puncture, since it may be pertinent.

I appreciate the responses. Based on what we can see, the vehicle is completely stock. My present SL and another were housed in a stable block by the former owner, a woman who owned a fleet of cars and used one every other year. A major dealer has always taken care of maintenance before that. Thanks to the car's long history of dry storage, the wiring and speakers are in excellent shape, and I haven't noticed any modifications to them. On one side of the center console is a dealer-fit Nokia phone cradle; it's well-made and matches the interior's right blue hue, so I plan to preserve it. After taking another look under the dashboard, I noticed a fused link for the phone along with its microphone and antenna wires. Additionally, there is a tiny multi-pin socket with two brown wires that connect to one terminal on the main harness. The radio's ISO ports and the Sony multichanger's connectors are also listed. It is possible that the multi-pin socket is to blame as it appears to be unplugged. The car's radio and CD player stopped working shortly after I picked it up from the auction; I subsequently discovered that the aerial had been detached and that the autochanger still had 10 CDs inside. If I can find a speaker output on the Becker amplifier, I may be able to short the two wires together using the multi-prong adapter. Given that I already have a spare radio, two Kenwood component speakers, and a variety of wiring and connectors, I don't see the need in going to any more lengths to acquire music. I keep the hard top in the rear of the garage, but I doubt I'll ever use it since I only use the car during the summer. The Alfa Romeo Spider, which I had been driving for a while but was finding increasingly difficult to enter and exit as I became older, was replaced by the SL. The Kenwood radio/CD/multichanger in the car worked fine; it appeared to be more user-friendly.

Hello, I own a Sony radio that came with my SL280 R129, however it only works with the tweeters. The issue persisted when I tested a different model of the same brand of radio. I have a build sheet from MB, and the car came with speakers but no radio when it was new. There are standard ISO connections in the dashboard, and there is a Sony 10 CD autochanger in the trunk mounted on a factory bracket; nonetheless, the same issue persists: there are no primary speakers. It has been suggested that a Becker amplifier, which is located beneath the passenger side of the back seat and appears to be in excellent working order when plugged in, could be the source of the issue. Is erasing this even possible? Because they are more modern and have features like bluetooth and aux, aftermarket radios are more than adequate for my purposes. Thanks for any advice or suggestions.

You did everything; thanks for the info. Everything was done in August with the blower and without a hitch! Along with the new water pump, I also constructed the one at the rear out of aluminium. I must have underfilled it, let some air out, and then let it fall. It has worked wonderfully ever since I top-filled it using the bleed screws. Unfortunately, I disconnected the tube that goes to the top of the radiator because I failed to see the bleed screw in the coolant reservoir. There is absolutely no air in the coolant reservoir after today's drive. I did not realise there was no air in it the first time I filled it, but now I know better. Even after an hour on the road today, it was still showing as max queue when I returned home.

Yes, it is absolutely insane that the side Rads effectively cool the supercharger. Either there's a leak or I didn't fill it correctly. It took two top-offs before my wife's Fpace's leak became apparent on the front auxiliary cooling system, which is somewhat to the front. I smelt coolant where the car was, so I checked for leaks, but thus yet, nothing has come up.

Okay, as some of you may recall, I installed a water pump and upgraded all of my coolant pipes to aluminium. It was a problem-free summer. I haven't added coolant since topping it up in the autumn, so it was strange that I had to do it recently. Even though it's winter where I am, I detected the fragrance of coolant and did not detect any leaks after pressurising the system. The headgasket isn't leaking, either. Tomorrow, when it's cold, I'll bleed the system on the reservoir as well and top it off. I should have done that earlier. I may have experienced a vaporous state. I was wondering if the supercharger coolant was on its own loop or if it was mixed all together. I get that the answer is affirmative when taken as a whole, but I don't see why, when the water temperature is normal but the lines leading to the supercharger are very cold, the electric pump is circulating this icy water to keep the supercharger running smoothly, and the water lines are connected to the main coolant line. Two frontal, miniature radiators are used to circulate water using an electric pump that is part of the supercharger. Just so we're clear, the coolant isn't mixing with the other coolant.

The issue is in the fact that it is ultimately the responsibility of the prior owner to eliminate their data, which raises the question of why one would neglect to do so, particularly when engaging with third-party garages. Considering the quantity of vehicles, it is unreasonable to anticipate that they possess knowledge of all procedures... Examine the seven-year warranty on that item. One thing is certain: deleting a previous user will not render the car inoperable. A default user exists.

Howdy, pal! It was that is why I had them changed.

Salutations everyone, So far, no one at two different local repair shops has been able to pinpoint the source of the terrible noise emanating from the back driver side wheel. Even when weighted, it cannot be reproduced on a ramp. Brand new discs and pads. Lots of people have looked at it, and nothing seems to fit. Not to the point of disassembling it to reach the drive shaft, but I believe all other options were exhausted. I was wondering if anyone experienced this problem and might offer some advice.

Thank you. Thus, it has a belt. How about intervals of service?