Matt865

Excuse me, I'm experiencing something quite similar and was hoping you might share your solution. Currently having troubleshooting with mechanics who have ruled out compressor and leak problems. The airmatic failed twice, both times while doing school runs (the vehicle would sit on its wheels and display a warning message). Outside of this, getting the kids to school went well. In the first instance, all four sides collapsed, but in the second, just the back collapsed. After waiting around for ten to twenty minutes in each instance, the vehicles were able to resume regular operation and go back on the road. This problem occurs so seldom that the garage can never reproduce it.

To give it a little bounce, is I correct in assuming that the Audio 20 option is superior or more refined for early W213s? I don't want to be let down, therefore I'm just looking at 2016 and 2017 models. Is the widescreen version of Audio 20 the best option? I'm particularly curious about CarPlay.

Could you, if at all possible, utilize the big ULEZ thread? Thanks

In the Corolla, it's easy to pass other cars. Power is fast.

Most likely, the Seat Leon e-Hybrid is the finest alternative? Or, a Suzuki Swace.

I just bought one as a family car and part-time PHV. At first glance, it looks great. The car is useful, gets a lot of miles per gallon, and comes with good tools as standard. People have said that the car looks cool, and my family seems to like it. I looked at the Mercedes c350e, the Toyota Prius, and other cars, but this one seemed to be the best fit. Toyota makes solid cars, and since I had a Lexus for a short time, I thought it would be best to be safe. Because they have more room than Priuses, a lot of PHV drivers are getting them instead. I'd recommend getting one. My car has a pan roof, which looks great and makes the inside feel more open. Though it might be risky if you plan to carry things on the roof.

Apologies for the delayed response. I've attached some images. It has a pink/white wire from the coil, but it is difficult to determine where it goes (although it appears to lead to what I believed was the 'ballast block'; see images 1 and 2). However, it is difficult to determine if there is a pink/white component to that. Probably irrelevant if you do not believe this to be significant. Any thoughts on what I could do next, now that these photographs have presumably clarified my current setup? Thanks also for additional responses. All of this began when I attempted to jumpstart (I'm still unsure if the act of jumpstarting itself caused the issue, within a component, for example). But I will also check to see if any cables are rubbing against the bodywork.

Ie appreciate your response. The coil specifies that it must be wired into a ballast circuit. I know this makes me seem really foolish, but I believe I located the ballast in the screenwash container. It's not an exact match, but it's around the same size as this one: Back to Search | Minispare.com | The hues you describe are ones I'm not familiar with. I can't say for sure, but it may have been redone at some time. I may have messed up the jumpstarting process. Do I have it right that this is a suitable replacement and that it is as simple as rejoining it in the same way it was removed? The Haynes handbook is vague on this topic, and it does not specify where the ballast should be situated.

I replaced the battery. The elderly was tested and found to be dead. The new one spins perfectly, but the issue persists. I cleared off all accessible connections, but the problem persisted. Next, I'll remove the grill and clean up the area surrounding it before inspecting the wiring. I'm still thinking it's electrical. I was cautious with the amount of jumpstarting I was performing, but is there a possibility it fried something and it wasn't going flat that created this issue, but the jumpstarting screwed something up? I didn't mind purchasing a new battery since it was probably past time. But, failing that, are there any other components I should consider replacing that are "worth it" even if they aren't the root of the problem? Apart from serviceable items like spark plugs, wires, and the distributor cover (done 3 years ago), I don't believe anything related to the engine has ever been changed on it!

UPDATE: Because the battery store is now closed, I attempted to start without jumpstart wires. The symptoms are the same. Then using jumper cables, with the same symptoms (only quicker turnover). I removed a spark plug (see picture). Not spotless, but not filthy either, particularly at the contacts, and with a touch of petroleum on it. When the domestic boss switched on the engine, there was no spark. Taking out the battery revealed that it was also well linked.

Already, thanks for the answers. If it's an old battery anyway, I might as well buy a new one and see if that fixes the problem. I'll send the housekeeper to get one, and I'll keep the thread up to date. Yes, I'll look into it if it's still the same problem, as coopertaz so kindly offers. (I forgot to mention that fuel is getting to the engine fine and is only a month old). This could be related: I put in a USB port a long time ago. Worked well, and the directions were clear. I did notice, though, that while it works fine for small devices, it doesn't really charge a GPS and seems to even make the idle jerky. The USB isn't the problem because it's not plugged into anything right now. But the GPS seems to add a demand that the circuits don't like. So I no longer use the GPS in my mini. Could this mean the battery had already reached the end of its useful life? Or maybe minis aren't made for this kind of technology?

Hi folks, I acknowledge that this may be a common issue with multiple potential causes, but the problem began only after the battery died, so I'm focusing on this for now and hope I'm not duplicating another thread. 1984 Mini Mayfair automatic with 1000cc displacement. The wife left the lamps on, draining the battery. It turns over when attempting to jump-start it, but does not always ignite. About 1 out of every 50 tries is successful (considerably undesirable!). After being started and driven to charge the battery, then halting and attempting to start it again, it did start but expired after 5 yards. Again, the engine cranks over but will not start (even with jumper cables). This 1 in 50 chance/independent mind suggested a loose connection, but all connections appear to be secure... All connections appear to be in good standing; Spark plugs and distributor cables are approximately three years old, but have seen minimal use. Everything looks parched; The battery's age is unknown, but it is at least six years old and presumably older. All connections are good. Therefore, given that this only started when the battery ran out, could it merely require a new battery? If jump-starting simulates a battery in ideal health, can the battery be ruled out as the cause? Or, even with a jumpstart, can a deceased battery still disrupt the circuit/prevent adequate charge for ignition/sparks? Please excuse my naiveté. I trust this adequately explains how the depleted battery and abrupt onset of the problem appear to be no mere coincidence. Any thoughts?

I've only taken a few hundred, guys!!!!

wow, that's quite the discovery. The day m10 fuel injection engine is also in my car. I'll include some additional pictures showing its current level of reconstruction as well as the dusty condition it was in when I first spotted it. I want to hang out with some of you when it's completed.

Hello there; have you figured out how to get rid of this trim yet? My plan is to remove it in order to facilitate the installation of the wiring for the back dash cam (which will go through the rubber gaiter and into the headliner). I have the same assumption as you, that it is just a collection of push clips, and that it can be removed by just pulling it off, but I'm basing that intuition on my experience with my prior BMW; I'd prefer have some Mercedes expertise to lean on.

Yes, I did read it back and didn't understand it. I meant that if I could drive a track with either bookatrack or another company, I would always choose bookatrack. Does that make sense

If I had the option to do the circuit I wanted, Bookatrack would be my first choice.

When my suspense runs out, I feel the same way. Really scary on country roads, and I almost drove it into a bush once. It was fine before I changed the rear gas shocks that were leaking. I think the guy from Gaz, dampertec, sent me the ones he thought were best. The stroke on them was shorter than on the old ones. To get the right ride height, I had to change the rear top shock support. Now, if I set them up for a softer ride on the road, they easily bottom out. I now have new ones that are the same as the originals and have put the rear top bolts back to how they were. I have major back problems, so when I run normally, I like a softer ride. My seats are big and comfortable, but they aren't good enough for stiff settings.

I have no idea. Some folks utilise oversized shells and grind their own cranks. There used to be the option of metal spraying.

New crankshaft or grinding? This carapace doesn't even appear circular...

I appreciate everyone time and insight into this company, I think I have greater clarity on the situation and will move forward with the deal with Enviosec Group.

I'm looking to purchase a Fiat 500 on eBay, and the seller has said that he prefers to do the transaction through Enviosec Group. How reliable is this company? Has anyone here purchased anything through them? Due to my current internet difficulties, I fear about being scammed I wanted to make sure I had the right information before acting hastily.

Boostist, that's a great sticky post.

Fill the washer bottle with water and add a couple of Milton tablets (the stuff you use to clean baby bottles). This stuff breaks down all sorts of things and is safe for plastic and rubber. Every time I fix the car, I put one tablet in. It doesn't hurt paint and kills the germs that cause the sludge in the first place.