bvlenci

Consider using an alternative Bluetooth OBDII reader. They are sufficiently inexpensive. The majority use the same ELM327 chip.

Indeed, that exceeds the potential returns from a savings account. However, 'winnings' denotes chance; so, prior success does not clearly indicate whether retaining the funds is a prudent or imprudent option. Next year, you may get either twice that amount or nothing at all. My assertion is that there exists a component of risk, rendering a comparison to interest on a savings account mathematically insignificant.

I am uncertain about my comprehension of your inquiry. The earnings are not interest; they represent a 'return on investment,' resulting in around 6.4%. If interest were paid monthly, compound interest would need to be considered; but, without knowledge of the frequency and magnitude of each winning, it is impossible to compute the total amount.

I am unaware of the expense associated with changing the thermostat on the OM646 engine; but, for the M274 engine, anticipate a cost of around £350 at an independent garage (including parts and work), or twice that amount at a dealership.

While I am uncertain about the author, I can assert with some confidence that, having participated in this forum for the last 16 years, problems with the M274 engine (except the thermostat) are seldom. I own a vehicle equipped with the M274 engine for five years, and the only problem encountered was the thermostat; nonetheless, this is a singular case. In summary, except from the thermostat, I anticipate no problems with the M274 engine.

Indeed, the placement (almost) under the engine block necessitates payment for three hours of labour.

It is a dual chain, and it is not an established cause of issues. The problem with the timing gear of the M271 engine was mostly related to the camshaft sprocket wheels and the hydraulic tensioner, rather than the single row chain. The main issue with the M274 engine is a malfunctioning thermostat, which incurs significant repair expenses relative to thermostat replacement rates for comparable engines.

It is unsurprising that we have installed hundreds of these units without encountering a head unit failure. Therefore, I remain sceptical that the IMI is causing the head unit to malfunction; I suspect there may be an issue with the cable. Consequently, I would like to test the old head unit on a bench to ascertain whether its video output has genuinely failed. I have observed numerous dealers and a few independents erroneously asserting that a head unit has failed when it has not.

Hello, can you recall the email address you utilised? Kindly use [email protected], and I will review your email. We apologise for the lack of response, which is unexpected since communications are sent only to myself or Alfie (Mark), both of whom prioritise email communication and monitor it throughout nights and weekends. Additionally, consult Integrated Automotive; we use their product due to their UK presence and excellent assistance. Do you still have flickering after removing the IMI-1000, which I presume you installed? The IMI cannot amplify the visual input from COMAND; it just utilises a relay to alternate between that stream and its own, which is audible via a clicking sound. This may only be a malfunctioning connection between the COMAND and the IMI. I recommend replacing the video lead to see whether the flashing persists. Do you still own the defective unit? Send it to me, and I will attach it on the bench to verify whether the visual output works when directly linked to a screen. The configuration required to effectively observe any visual flicker or issues is complex, and I would be astonished if an independent Mercedes expert had such a setup. A flicker may occur while using CarPlay and engaging reverse, when the IMI transitions from its video feed to the visual output from the head unit (i.e., the relay changes).

If the battery is very depleted, a smart charger such as the Ring or CTek will be ineffective. It requires many hours on a 4 - 6 amp mains charger before the smart charger can assume control. Could you get a mains charger to begin the charging process? The battery may need replacement if it has been fully discharged for an extended period.

It seems to provide substantial value for the price, in my opinion. Timeless aesthetics and not overtly worn. Nevertheless, there are certain CI's that would prompt me to do meticulous inspections prior to contemplating a purchase.

Do any codes appear when the vehicle is scanned?

Two switches are present for the 722.5 gearbox: E/S and 4/5th. I resolved four-fifths of the gear issues by detaching and cleaning the switches using premium electrical contact cleaner. Under no circumstances should regular WD40 be used. Your symptoms, in my opinion, do not indicate issues with those switches, provided that the 4th and 5th gear shifts are functioning well.

Do not apply excessively. Detach the trim and switches, then cleanse the switches using a high-quality contact cleaner. Non-standard WD-40. Subsequently, reconstruct. You may need to erase error codes like I did, but because yours is a newer model, I will refrain from further commentary until I have had less alcohol. Keep us informed.

I believe that is quite probable, provided they still possess it. The 928 used the 722.3 gearbox. My gearbox is the 722.5, which is derived from the 722.3 but has an additional fifth gear. Therefore, it is likely identical to yours, correct?

There is an abundance of items available on eBay.

Consider consulting your nearest Porsche dealership. I acquired mine from Porsche for €60 compared to €95 from Mercedes-Benz.

Thank you. I lack access to Star; but, I now own an iCarsoft MB, which enables me to show pressures and other data. The fuel system pressures seem satisfactory; nevertheless, I have not plotted them throughout the rough operation to analyse the occurrences. I can interpret some pressures, but I am uncertain about the expected ratios between MAF, MAP, boost, and other parameters. I will attempt to unplug the EGR to see if it alleviates the harsh idling. That is contingent upon my ability to access the connection, since the space is really confined.

I pursued the fuel path due to the first symptoms, namely the harsh idling until the engine warmed, and the diagnosis obtained from Google. The P0401 code appeared thereafter, and I presumed this was a result of the erratic operation disrupting pressures inside the system. This evening, I took it for another ride and, after many error resets, I now got a new fault: “P227962 - Leak detected in the intake air system.” The signal comparison is erroneous. The P0401 code has been resolved. Unless P0401 appears while cold and P227962 manifests when heated. Unless I have inadvertently created a leak when disassembling it to replace the Y94 valve! I am uncertain if this would lead to harsh idling or stalling.

I have used diesel fuel system cleaning for around 50 miles in all my activities so far, with no discernible difference. Did you experience rough operation as well, or just the error code?

Greetings everyone, It has been some time since I last visited the forum, but I am seeking assistance as I am exasperated by this issue. Lengthy article, but I want to provide comprehensive information. The vehicle is a 2012 W204 C220CDI with 149,000 kilometres. It was operating OK until one morning when it exhibited rough idling and occasional stalling upon startup. Engaging the throttle while stuttering allows it to continue operating; otherwise, it stalls if left alone. While attempting to accelerate, the engine light illuminated, and the vehicle entered limp mode. The only problem number is P0401, indicating inadequate flow in the EGR system. I suspect this inaccuracy may be a symptom rather than the underlying problem, considering it emerged after the tough operation; nonetheless, I might be mistaken. After around five minutes of warming, the engine operates correctly, although in limp mode. I have successfully reset the problem while the engine is warm and after many on/off cycles, temporarily exiting limp mode; however, it reoccurs after harsh operation from cold, resulting in a return to limp mode. Measures undertaken so far after online investigation! - Attempted to disconnect as many accessible sensors and valves as possible to identify a potential malfunction. This generates a new problem number that disappears upon reconnection, indicating that I do not believe I have identified one that is malfunctioning. - I conducted an injector leak-off test, revealing little flow, although the output was rather consistent across all injectors, with two exhibiting somewhat more flow than the other two. I have only performed this with a cold engine, not with a heated one. - Replaced fuel filter - no improvement seen. - Installed a used injector rail from a breaker to determine whether the pressure valve or pressure gauge was defective; however, this did not result in any change. I had significant difficulty in starting the engine after doing this procedure, likely due to an air lock. The battery was depleted several times; however, I ultimately succeeded in bleeding the system by utilising a suction pump to draw diesel into the rail via one of the injector pipes. - I subsequently concluded that the issue lay with the Quantity Control Valve/Flow Regulation Valve Y94, since the vehicle operates OK initially but begins to malfunction after around 30 seconds. Yesterday, I mostly focused on disassembling components to access and replace this valve, followed by reassembly. Significant carbon accumulation was present in the EGR pipe leading to the input manifold and throttle control valve, which I subsequently cleaned. I refrained from removing the EGR valve, since it seemed to be a much more arduous task and I was short on time. The issue remains unresolved! It is performing identically. Rough idling and P0401 error after few minutes. I have reached my limit and may need to consult specialists. I am reluctant to invest financially on the automobile due to its limited value. Any assistance or guidance would be much appreciated! One more inquiry - does anybody know which sensor activates the EGR inadequate flow error? I presumed it was the little component on the intake manifold next to the entry point of the metal EGR input pipe. It seems to be connected to a venturi orifice, which I verified was unobstructed after the cleaning of the manifold.

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