bvlenci

Considering the high mileage and warm environment, my first idea, apart from the boost system, was that the EGR or intake manifold may have deteriorated. However, if a smoke test reveals no smoke leakage, I can only conclude that it is not a boost leak. A sensor is the rational choice. Have you examined the DPF pressure sensor and associated lines? The component is sufficiently inexpensive to warrant replacement if it has not been done before. My E350 exhibited problems without consistently generating error codes. I am uncertain about the similarities between the two engine systems, unfortunately.

Do you own a code reader, such as STAR or iCarsoft?

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/combustion-leak-detector

A compression test may reveal a blown head gasket, since failures often occur at the narrowest point, resulting in low compression in two contiguous cylinders. A pressure gauge installed in the cooling system will indicate if the system retains pressure when the engine is turned off. If it does not, there may be a leak, maybe into the cylinder head. Compress the upper radiator pipe, then assess the internal pressure. Remove the radiator cap to alleviate pressure (with the engine off), then replace the cap, start the engine, and then increase the RPM. If pressure accumulates rapidly, the head gasket is likely compromised, since pressure should increase gradually during engine warm-up. When you bring the automobile to a MOT testing facility and request that they insert an exhaust gas analyser into the expansion bottle (ensuring it remains above the coolant level), the apparatus will identify any exhaust gases present in the cooling system. Alternative methods for verification also exist: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Block-Tester-Bt-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF/

I would get the automatic gearbox serviced again using the appropriate fluid first.

It is only a consideration, but my devices do not function below a certain velocity. Are you travelling at a enough pace to activate them?

My assumption is that the warning exists (maybe) to deter anyone from attaching the obsolete Mercedes Me Adapter to the OBDII port.

Consider using an alternative Bluetooth OBDII reader. They are sufficiently inexpensive. The majority use the same ELM327 chip.

Indeed, that exceeds the potential returns from a savings account. However, 'winnings' denotes chance; so, prior success does not clearly indicate whether retaining the funds is a prudent or imprudent option. Next year, you may get either twice that amount or nothing at all. My assertion is that there exists a component of risk, rendering a comparison to interest on a savings account mathematically insignificant.

I am uncertain about my comprehension of your inquiry. The earnings are not interest; they represent a 'return on investment,' resulting in around 6.4%. If interest were paid monthly, compound interest would need to be considered; but, without knowledge of the frequency and magnitude of each winning, it is impossible to compute the total amount.

I am unaware of the expense associated with changing the thermostat on the OM646 engine; but, for the M274 engine, anticipate a cost of around £350 at an independent garage (including parts and work), or twice that amount at a dealership.

While I am uncertain about the author, I can assert with some confidence that, having participated in this forum for the last 16 years, problems with the M274 engine (except the thermostat) are seldom. I own a vehicle equipped with the M274 engine for five years, and the only problem encountered was the thermostat; nonetheless, this is a singular case. In summary, except from the thermostat, I anticipate no problems with the M274 engine.

Indeed, the placement (almost) under the engine block necessitates payment for three hours of labour.

It is a dual chain, and it is not an established cause of issues. The problem with the timing gear of the M271 engine was mostly related to the camshaft sprocket wheels and the hydraulic tensioner, rather than the single row chain. The main issue with the M274 engine is a malfunctioning thermostat, which incurs significant repair expenses relative to thermostat replacement rates for comparable engines.

It is unsurprising that we have installed hundreds of these units without encountering a head unit failure. Therefore, I remain sceptical that the IMI is causing the head unit to malfunction; I suspect there may be an issue with the cable. Consequently, I would like to test the old head unit on a bench to ascertain whether its video output has genuinely failed. I have observed numerous dealers and a few independents erroneously asserting that a head unit has failed when it has not.

Hello, can you recall the email address you utilised? Kindly use [email protected], and I will review your email. We apologise for the lack of response, which is unexpected since communications are sent only to myself or Alfie (Mark), both of whom prioritise email communication and monitor it throughout nights and weekends. Additionally, consult Integrated Automotive; we use their product due to their UK presence and excellent assistance. Do you still have flickering after removing the IMI-1000, which I presume you installed? The IMI cannot amplify the visual input from COMAND; it just utilises a relay to alternate between that stream and its own, which is audible via a clicking sound. This may only be a malfunctioning connection between the COMAND and the IMI. I recommend replacing the video lead to see whether the flashing persists. Do you still own the defective unit? Send it to me, and I will attach it on the bench to verify whether the visual output works when directly linked to a screen. The configuration required to effectively observe any visual flicker or issues is complex, and I would be astonished if an independent Mercedes expert had such a setup. A flicker may occur while using CarPlay and engaging reverse, when the IMI transitions from its video feed to the visual output from the head unit (i.e., the relay changes).

If the battery is very depleted, a smart charger such as the Ring or CTek will be ineffective. It requires many hours on a 4 - 6 amp mains charger before the smart charger can assume control. Could you get a mains charger to begin the charging process? The battery may need replacement if it has been fully discharged for an extended period.

It seems to provide substantial value for the price, in my opinion. Timeless aesthetics and not overtly worn. Nevertheless, there are certain CI's that would prompt me to do meticulous inspections prior to contemplating a purchase.

Do any codes appear when the vehicle is scanned?

Two switches are present for the 722.5 gearbox: E/S and 4/5th. I resolved four-fifths of the gear issues by detaching and cleaning the switches using premium electrical contact cleaner. Under no circumstances should regular WD40 be used. Your symptoms, in my opinion, do not indicate issues with those switches, provided that the 4th and 5th gear shifts are functioning well.

Do not apply excessively. Detach the trim and switches, then cleanse the switches using a high-quality contact cleaner. Non-standard WD-40. Subsequently, reconstruct. You may need to erase error codes like I did, but because yours is a newer model, I will refrain from further commentary until I have had less alcohol. Keep us informed.

I believe that is quite probable, provided they still possess it. The 928 used the 722.3 gearbox. My gearbox is the 722.5, which is derived from the 722.3 but has an additional fifth gear. Therefore, it is likely identical to yours, correct?

There is an abundance of items available on eBay.

Consider consulting your nearest Porsche dealership. I acquired mine from Porsche for €60 compared to €95 from Mercedes-Benz.