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Thank you. I lack access to Star; but, I now own an iCarsoft MB, which enables me to show pressures and other data. The fuel system pressures seem satisfactory; nevertheless, I have not plotted them throughout the rough operation to analyse the occurrences. I can interpret some pressures, but I am uncertain about the expected ratios between MAF, MAP, boost, and other parameters. I will attempt to unplug the EGR to see if it alleviates the harsh idling. That is contingent upon my ability to access the connection, since the space is really confined.

I pursued the fuel path due to the first symptoms, namely the harsh idling until the engine warmed, and the diagnosis obtained from Google. The P0401 code appeared thereafter, and I presumed this was a result of the erratic operation disrupting pressures inside the system. This evening, I took it for another ride and, after many error resets, I now got a new fault: “P227962 - Leak detected in the intake air system.” The signal comparison is erroneous. The P0401 code has been resolved. Unless P0401 appears while cold and P227962 manifests when heated. Unless I have inadvertently created a leak when disassembling it to replace the Y94 valve! I am uncertain if this would lead to harsh idling or stalling.

I have used diesel fuel system cleaning for around 50 miles in all my activities so far, with no discernible difference. Did you experience rough operation as well, or just the error code?

Greetings everyone, It has been some time since I last visited the forum, but I am seeking assistance as I am exasperated by this issue. Lengthy article, but I want to provide comprehensive information. The vehicle is a 2012 W204 C220CDI with 149,000 kilometres. It was operating OK until one morning when it exhibited rough idling and occasional stalling upon startup. Engaging the throttle while stuttering allows it to continue operating; otherwise, it stalls if left alone. While attempting to accelerate, the engine light illuminated, and the vehicle entered limp mode. The only problem number is P0401, indicating inadequate flow in the EGR system. I suspect this inaccuracy may be a symptom rather than the underlying problem, considering it emerged after the tough operation; nonetheless, I might be mistaken. After around five minutes of warming, the engine operates correctly, although in limp mode. I have successfully reset the problem while the engine is warm and after many on/off cycles, temporarily exiting limp mode; however, it reoccurs after harsh operation from cold, resulting in a return to limp mode. Measures undertaken so far after online investigation! - Attempted to disconnect as many accessible sensors and valves as possible to identify a potential malfunction. This generates a new problem number that disappears upon reconnection, indicating that I do not believe I have identified one that is malfunctioning. - I conducted an injector leak-off test, revealing little flow, although the output was rather consistent across all injectors, with two exhibiting somewhat more flow than the other two. I have only performed this with a cold engine, not with a heated one. - Replaced fuel filter - no improvement seen. - Installed a used injector rail from a breaker to determine whether the pressure valve or pressure gauge was defective; however, this did not result in any change. I had significant difficulty in starting the engine after doing this procedure, likely due to an air lock. The battery was depleted several times; however, I ultimately succeeded in bleeding the system by utilising a suction pump to draw diesel into the rail via one of the injector pipes. - I subsequently concluded that the issue lay with the Quantity Control Valve/Flow Regulation Valve Y94, since the vehicle operates OK initially but begins to malfunction after around 30 seconds. Yesterday, I mostly focused on disassembling components to access and replace this valve, followed by reassembly. Significant carbon accumulation was present in the EGR pipe leading to the input manifold and throttle control valve, which I subsequently cleaned. I refrained from removing the EGR valve, since it seemed to be a much more arduous task and I was short on time. The issue remains unresolved! It is performing identically. Rough idling and P0401 error after few minutes. I have reached my limit and may need to consult specialists. I am reluctant to invest financially on the automobile due to its limited value. Any assistance or guidance would be much appreciated! One more inquiry - does anybody know which sensor activates the EGR inadequate flow error? I presumed it was the little component on the intake manifold next to the entry point of the metal EGR input pipe. It seems to be connected to a venturi orifice, which I verified was unobstructed after the cleaning of the manifold.

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Thank you for your kind feedback.

Thank you, really valued

I am requesting to purchase a new CLE Coupe. After selecting Red Metallic for the exterior, I now need to choose the inside colour. The available options are Black, Brown/Tan, White/Cream, or Red upholstery. Does anybody have any insights or expertise in selecting combinations of outside and interior elements? What would be the most aesthetically pleasing option for the CLE Coupe?

Is the CarPlay kit wireless?

Has the gearbox not been serviced for 50,000 miles and 15 years? The vehicle is significantly overdue for a servicing.

Opie Oils is a reliable supplier that can provide you with the appropriate oil, especially if you choose not to purchase it from the Mercedes-Benz parts department.

Is this link beneficial? It is from a different forum. I created it at a time when I had questions comparable to yours.

THIS SUGGESTS THE LOCATION OF THE CRACK - the one seen in the photo has been poorly welded.

It is possible that the issue might be caused by a valve. There may be a little issue with the connection between the connecting rod and the piston gudgeon pin. As your expert said, it is difficult to establish the issue without dismantling the engine, which would incur expenditures similar to replacing it with a reliable used motor. Using a thicker oil may be used as a diagnostic tool to determine whether excessive clearance, wear, or bearing issues are present, since it has the potential to reduce noise levels. At the very least, this will provide you with a more accurate understanding of the geographical area you are now situated in. It seems that there may be an uncommon issue with the exhaust manifold, such as a fracture or leak, which might potentially cause an odd sound.

The issue at hand is the concerning problem of hub run out. To address this, it is crucial to ensure that the surface is well cleaned. Afterward, the brake rotor should be installed and checked for any run out. If everything seems to be in order, it is possible that a flexible hose restriction or a sticky calliper may be causing one brake pad to not make proper contact. In such cases, the most cost-effective solution would be to consider trading in the automobile.

I have been using a personalised license plate on my vehicle for almost three years. However, when I reach out to the Mercedes dealership, they still refer to the car's original license plate. Therefore, your scenario is not unfamiliar to me. However, it is possible that others may have a contrasting experience.

Discs and pads are considered consumable parts, making it difficult to get them changed under warranty. Were the discs changed based on the dealer's recommendation or did you notice that they were warped? For what it's worth, the cost of £490 for authentic discs, pads, sensors, and maybe calliper bolts is still high, but not worth resorting to extreme measures like leaping over the Erskine Bridge. Typically, the lifespan of front brake pads and discs is about 25,000 kilometres, while the rear brake pads may last up to 40,000 kilometres and the discs up to 80,000 kilometres. However, these figures may vary depending on driving style and use. Replacing the discs and pads can be a profitable venture for the dealer. Today, I replaced my pads because I was informed by the dealer during the last visit that the rear brakes needed to be replaced. Upon inspection, I found that the rear pads were approximately 60% worn and the discs were more than 50% worn. Given my yearly mileage, I could have continued using them for another five years. However, it is always enjoyable to have a new set of brakes.

It is quite disheartening, as you said, to see the decline of such a renowned brand. The stock Recaros in my Vauxhall Novas were excellent, but the Recaro seats on the last easyJet Airbus I went on were really uncomfortable.

Rest assured, you are not alone. Currently, in the era of mobile applications, the only documentation you get to confirm a payment is a receipt, which may not include any information on insurance. Recently, I had a similar situation and was able to identify it by seeing a World Pay email in my junk folder.

The insurance should clearly indicate its expiration date. Retrieve and review your emails from the same date in past years, specifically searching for emails containing the keyword "insurance". That's the action I took when I had a lapse of memory about the insurance provider I was affiliated with 😉

The initial cause of the task was the dragging caused by the disconnected brake lining and the partially stuck pads in the carrier. Prior to this, I had no knowledge of any problems.

Thank you for all the responses. Here are a few responses: 1. The fronts were colder than the rears. 2. I completed a run without using the hand brake, and I used minimum braking. The brake temperatures were acceptable for all wheels. 3. Engaged the handbrake while stationary to inspect temps. Stopped once again a few kilometres down the road - rear brakes exhibited higher temperature than the front brakes. I am concerned that the wire connecting the handbrake lever to the mechanism in the centre of the chassis may not be releasing correctly, since both brakes are exhibiting signs of overheating. It is time to once again get beneath the vehicle and inspect the motion of the different components of the system

A 2020 316 4x4 MWB camper van conversion with around 20,000 km. Occasional periods of inactivity have caused the rear handbrake linings to get trapped and separate from the brake shoes. Additionally, the rear pads have been caught in their carriers. The handbrake shoes have been replaced with new ones, and the pad/carriers have been thoroughly cleaned and lubricated with copper slip by my reliable local garage. Currently, everything is free and in excellent condition. Now, leave the vehicle parked at home without using the handbrake. When the rear wheels are lifted off the ground, they rotate without any resistance. However, despite this, both rear brakes get much hotter than the front brakes after driving. I do not brake heavily. All hand brake cables seem to be unrestricted, but I see that the situation deteriorates after using the handbrake. Do you have any insightful explanations for why this may be occurring? Additionally, are there any additional examinations I can perform? Thank you.

A voltage output of 13.8V from the alternator indicates that the battery has achieved a charge level of 80% or above.