Darrellll

It is essential to equilibrate the velocity. 7kW units are generally ineffective, while a solitary 150kW unit would also be suboptimal. A handful of 50kW units operating at 80% efficiency during your shopping would be ideal.

This is really helpful information for me, so thank you very much. The wheels were cleaned with a jet washer two days prior to my attempt to drive the car, but I was unable to do so because the handbrake was stuck! Since it happened the other day, I haven't attempted to move the car. Tomorrow, I plan to take a hammer to it and gently drive it backward and forwards to see if that helps. Nonetheless, this must be deliberate. The inside of the drum must have become rusted from water intrusion. Everything you've done to assist me is greatly appreciated. After I examine the vehicle, I will provide an update to everyone on this thread.

Hello everyone, I am having trouble getting the car to move when I release the hand brake lever. I think it's probably just one corner where the shoes are stuck because the car dips at the back in one corner when I try to start it. But it's stuck so firmly that the vehicle won't move. As a first step, could someone tell me what I can do to try to identify the problem's origin? My ability to attempt a self-repair depends on the nature of the problem. Despite the fact that it may be difficult to remove the drum...It would be great if there was a way to release the hand brake first, so I could take it the half-mile distance to the garage to get it fixed right. I am grateful.

The rear suspension design is essentially derived from the WRX, which accounts for its significant anti-squat characteristics and an unpredictable rear end.

The inquiry was directed toward the original poster.

Do not consider the Mercedes primary dealership as your final option; instead, prioritise them as your initial choice. This will enable you to ascertain the price of an item from them. Occasionally, you may find yourself pleasantly astonished (I concede, not frequently), yet it remains an excellent point of departure. 👍

Cracks in the suspension arms are an ever-present possibility. It seems like the front arms are aluminium and the control arm is cast iron.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=JM72-EUR-02-2017-G31-BMW-520d&diagId=18_2116

Indeed, I am concerned that once he departs, the 1962 250 GTO (which was recently valued at approximately £50 million) will no longer be visible to the public and will most certainly not be placed on someone's lawn so that the general public can examine it closely, just like I was able to do a few years ago.

To get to his residence on two wheels, park at the Corsham CoOp and pedal over.

https://www.chippenham.gov.uk/event/chippenham-lions-cherished-vehicle-family-fun-day/

https://middlewickhouseopengarden.com/

Be aware, as I indicated a year ago, the traffic on the Bath road, the only way to reach Middle Wick Lane, is becoming worse during this time of year. The other day, I was driving through that area when I noticed AA "yellow" signs alerting drivers of the heavy traffic. By the McDonald's on the bypass, I even noticed more displayed further down the road. Reason being, the area's bypasses are undergoing a tremendous amount of road construction. Since there is only one route to enter Nick's house and one way to leave, through his neighbor's private land, I am unsure of how they will enforce this. It is my sincere hope that no one will miss this event, so I urge everyone to arrive early on Saturday. It would be unfortunate if this event had to be rescheduled because of how popular it is. You may always spend the weekend at Nick's place and then head a little distance to the Cherished vehicle exhibition on Sunday.

Have you attempted a gearbox reset? If so, how exactly is it damaged? Although I am not familiar with the costs, I am sure that a new gearbox would not be too expensive. After all, many people have done just that, and they have kept on going strong.

Doesn't every service work include the replacement of sump bolts according to MB manufacturer policy? Is it a good idea to get new bolts if the old ones seize or peel easily?

My only regret is that no one has ever tinkered with my wiring, and I hope it will never happen. Even though I'll be installing extra cables for some of my gear and making my own unique ISO harness for the radio power, I will never cut or damage the car's original wiring. After I install anything, it will be easy to remove it, so the automobile will remain unaltered. In order to install the loudspeakers, I only need to procure new trim panels to cover the areas on either side of the back seats.

Two of the ISO connectors on my R129 are the standard 8-pole varieties (one for power and the other for speakers), and there's a third, 10-pole one that came from the memory that I assume supplied power to the optional amplifier—which, to be honest, isn't in my vehicle. Even though my car only has four wires connected to the 8-pole ISO speaker connector, the VIN decoder—which I have used a few times—suggests that it has rear speakers. In this thread you can find various images of these connectors. There are two tweeters in the dash, a larger (bass) speaker, and a smaller (midrange) speaker on the R129 front doors. Being on my second R129, I can say that the original speakers are mediocre at best. I replaced them with JBL units of the same size in my previous vehicle and am planning to do the same in my current one. The car's factory stereo was a Sony cassette player with a few shaky functions; I'm replacing it with a higher-quality CD player, which doesn't have any built-in amplifier. I plan to install my digital signal processor and multi-channel amplifier in the trunk, with the original speakers mounted on the sides of the back seats and a passive subwoofer on the luggage shelf—which forms when the back seats fold down—that can be easily removed if more room is required for luggage. It seems like someone may have tampered with the wiring in your car, since the front door speakers and dash tweeters are connected in parallel. I'll be installing a 6-1/2" bass only unit in the lower door positions and 4" dual concentric units in the upper door position, also wired in parallel. My previous car had 5-1/2" dual concentrics in the rear, but this time I'll be using a 5-1/2" component system with the bass unit in the same spot and surface-mounted tweeters higher up for better sound dispersion. I'll post pictures of these in my thread once I have better lighting. Typically, the speaker outputs on the main radio are where the Becker amplifiers are connected. When I acquired my W140, it was already equipped with the original Blaupunkt unit and a factory amplifier in the boot.

In this case, I'd bet on the swap.

I assume by "amp" you mean the central unit located in the trunk on the left side? Maybe you could elaborate on the make and model of the car we are considering. Does the date of the errors that return match?

I would recommend erasing the errors and rechecking the oecus because all of them are dated 2008.

It may be difficult to "guess" this without reading the codes, as previously mentioned.

https://www.torqueflow.co.uk/our-services/

Feel free to contact Imran at Torqueflow Birmingham. Maybe he can lend a hand.

To my question, I have the complete response. I didn't know that when you pick a destination, under Route Options, you can toggle "include charging stations" on or off, as well as set the minimum charge for the en route and the journey finish. Only that time out have I ever allowed!

There you have it, a hint. You have my gratitude. My personal "anxiety threshold" needs to be determined. It may have just missed the 30% mark because it was pointing me toward a charger seven miles away from my house on the way.