Darrellll

My only regret is that no one has ever tinkered with my wiring, and I hope it will never happen. Even though I'll be installing extra cables for some of my gear and making my own unique ISO harness for the radio power, I will never cut or damage the car's original wiring. After I install anything, it will be easy to remove it, so the automobile will remain unaltered. In order to install the loudspeakers, I only need to procure new trim panels to cover the areas on either side of the back seats.

Two of the ISO connectors on my R129 are the standard 8-pole varieties (one for power and the other for speakers), and there's a third, 10-pole one that came from the memory that I assume supplied power to the optional amplifier—which, to be honest, isn't in my vehicle. Even though my car only has four wires connected to the 8-pole ISO speaker connector, the VIN decoder—which I have used a few times—suggests that it has rear speakers. In this thread you can find various images of these connectors. There are two tweeters in the dash, a larger (bass) speaker, and a smaller (midrange) speaker on the R129 front doors. Being on my second R129, I can say that the original speakers are mediocre at best. I replaced them with JBL units of the same size in my previous vehicle and am planning to do the same in my current one. The car's factory stereo was a Sony cassette player with a few shaky functions; I'm replacing it with a higher-quality CD player, which doesn't have any built-in amplifier. I plan to install my digital signal processor and multi-channel amplifier in the trunk, with the original speakers mounted on the sides of the back seats and a passive subwoofer on the luggage shelf—which forms when the back seats fold down—that can be easily removed if more room is required for luggage. It seems like someone may have tampered with the wiring in your car, since the front door speakers and dash tweeters are connected in parallel. I'll be installing a 6-1/2" bass only unit in the lower door positions and 4" dual concentric units in the upper door position, also wired in parallel. My previous car had 5-1/2" dual concentrics in the rear, but this time I'll be using a 5-1/2" component system with the bass unit in the same spot and surface-mounted tweeters higher up for better sound dispersion. I'll post pictures of these in my thread once I have better lighting. Typically, the speaker outputs on the main radio are where the Becker amplifiers are connected. When I acquired my W140, it was already equipped with the original Blaupunkt unit and a factory amplifier in the boot.

In this case, I'd bet on the swap.

I assume by "amp" you mean the central unit located in the trunk on the left side? Maybe you could elaborate on the make and model of the car we are considering. Does the date of the errors that return match?

I would recommend erasing the errors and rechecking the oecus because all of them are dated 2008.

It may be difficult to "guess" this without reading the codes, as previously mentioned.

https://www.torqueflow.co.uk/our-services/

Feel free to contact Imran at Torqueflow Birmingham. Maybe he can lend a hand.

To my question, I have the complete response. I didn't know that when you pick a destination, under Route Options, you can toggle "include charging stations" on or off, as well as set the minimum charge for the en route and the journey finish. Only that time out have I ever allowed!

There you have it, a hint. You have my gratitude. My personal "anxiety threshold" needs to be determined. It may have just missed the 30% mark because it was pointing me toward a charger seven miles away from my house on the way.

Allow me to paint you a picture. I'm confident in my battery's ability to get me home on a lengthy journey without charging. (Really made it with 30% of the total). Overnight at home was going to be my charging session. I just said "go home" to turn on the navigation system whenever I received a diversion. For the most part, I've been pleased thus far, and I'm not one to use voice commands—I like to press buttons. Thus, the GPS system activated, along with the battery conditioning, and the vehicle arbitrarily chose a charger along the way that I had no need for. With the battery life dwindling, I decided to give the command "stop battery conditioning" a try. An error message reading "Feature not supported" is displayed. I intended to utilise the navigation without a mid-route charging point, but cancelling the navigation was the only option I could think of to halt the battery heating. Can I get what I want just by speaking into the phone, or do I have to get out and fiddle with the settings? (Down the M5 at night, I despise menu surfing!). Does anyone have any ideas? Additionally, if someone knows of a good syntax guide, I would greatly appreciate it. Yours faithfully.

Hello there!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166294403076?_skw=Sealey+E/Start&epid=13017006776&itmmeta=01KFCZD1W7W67MZJXVYWEAJ81N&hash=item26b7eb3804:g:NboAAOSwY0Jk5d1E&itmprp=enc:AQALAAAA0O7PUuNWmJ++UShgI9tQz/r7aLOYGXQbqxpWCCKfn1tvwBz4Du6Y06SFuXdAhM+R7SSzffhK5Jp5iHWZwi0bhN1G0ZbUEXFKJ1a+9L8OybpbP+/ea6DOHPWOcrk9nxTK8tkJQCXLmUi9vNrLdHWkGQnHrZ+KimnXxUuWvl9A0MwjJgD6xf3Cti3jBxFbLnof1As8iVU3XlL9JNnsX4YYe/zvCvCkw2q+UyAeqteblsk93NmFiEZ3kOgsM9N7kqWC7iJUSQRZHS5gqJXW0YkD8bY=|tkp:Bk9SR6KetJ_7Zg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X32f0ff9abd1ad1d760a0f184c635f1c0&subId2=15

I possess a Sealey Electrostart, as referenced in the link, but I did not spend anything near that price; I continued to search for a deal and acquired two units for slightly over £110 each, specifically the 1600 amp models. Provided the car battery maintains a voltage over 5 volts, the vehicle will initiate without necessitating the frequent recharging of the pack, as it derives power from the residual charge in the car's battery.

My 639 has a curb weight of slightly under 2.2 tonnes. The gross train weight exceeds 4.9 tonnes. There is considerable tolerance required for the drivetrain to manage. The percentage growth can be obtained from websites that display the percentage of increase in circumference. However, this is primarily attributable to the additional revolutions required to initiate movement, particularly on an incline, if so chosen. Years ago, I upgraded the tyres on a Vito from 205/65 to 205/75 to enhance the ride quality. Over approximately 60,000 miles, it did not cause any damage. The speedometer was then as near to GPS accuracy as possible. I would not appreciate the road noise and atmosphere, but to each their own.

I anticipate that the differential will fail before the automatic gearbox. However, that would be contingent upon the extent of your demands. Obtaining the torque specification for your box should be feasible. Subsequently, contrast the power output of motors directed towards it with that of your own.

Completed. Apologies, my friend; I was in a state of urgency and did not completely comprehend how to utilise this. 🤣

I possess a 2010 BMW 320d Touring. N47 engine: Intake has been removed and replaced. The glow plug was broken but has already been removed and replaced. The car has been reassembled but fails to start. The engine turns over, but the halo side lights flicker. I believe perhaps a brief one? Is there anyone that can assist with this? Thank you.

If it originates from an automotive business, there are possibly EU regulations that safeguard you for a specified duration, irrespective of the dealer's assertion of no warranty. Verify that first; nonetheless, 211,000 miles is negligible for a contemporary diesel engine.

What specific Earth fix did you implement?It appears like the back earth pin or wire has been burned or is burnt out.

I concur. Schedule an appointment with a Kia dealership. You are not restricted to the original retailer; you may schedule an appointment at any location convenient to your daughter's university.

It is advisable to put your question in the appropriate section, as not everyone will check this area to greet and view it.

The outcome is contingent upon the urgency of the sale; if you can afford to wait weeks or months, you may get a higher price, albeit the exact increase is unpredictable.

The DSC module has a brake drying mechanism that activates while the wipers are in use, applying little braking pressure to dry the discs, which should be imperceptible to the driver. The modules may malfunction, resulting in excessive braking force when the drying function is engaged. You own three alternatives. Replace DSC. 2. Dispatch the DSC for repair to ECU testing or a comparable facility. Eliminate the coding for brake drying.

Indeed.🥰