Darrellll

Doesn't every service work include the replacement of sump bolts according to MB manufacturer policy? Is it a good idea to get new bolts if the old ones seize or peel easily?

My only regret is that no one has ever tinkered with my wiring, and I hope it will never happen. Even though I'll be installing extra cables for some of my gear and making my own unique ISO harness for the radio power, I will never cut or damage the car's original wiring. After I install anything, it will be easy to remove it, so the automobile will remain unaltered. In order to install the loudspeakers, I only need to procure new trim panels to cover the areas on either side of the back seats.

Two of the ISO connectors on my R129 are the standard 8-pole varieties (one for power and the other for speakers), and there's a third, 10-pole one that came from the memory that I assume supplied power to the optional amplifier—which, to be honest, isn't in my vehicle. Even though my car only has four wires connected to the 8-pole ISO speaker connector, the VIN decoder—which I have used a few times—suggests that it has rear speakers. In this thread you can find various images of these connectors. There are two tweeters in the dash, a larger (bass) speaker, and a smaller (midrange) speaker on the R129 front doors. Being on my second R129, I can say that the original speakers are mediocre at best. I replaced them with JBL units of the same size in my previous vehicle and am planning to do the same in my current one. The car's factory stereo was a Sony cassette player with a few shaky functions; I'm replacing it with a higher-quality CD player, which doesn't have any built-in amplifier. I plan to install my digital signal processor and multi-channel amplifier in the trunk, with the original speakers mounted on the sides of the back seats and a passive subwoofer on the luggage shelf—which forms when the back seats fold down—that can be easily removed if more room is required for luggage. It seems like someone may have tampered with the wiring in your car, since the front door speakers and dash tweeters are connected in parallel. I'll be installing a 6-1/2" bass only unit in the lower door positions and 4" dual concentric units in the upper door position, also wired in parallel. My previous car had 5-1/2" dual concentrics in the rear, but this time I'll be using a 5-1/2" component system with the bass unit in the same spot and surface-mounted tweeters higher up for better sound dispersion. I'll post pictures of these in my thread once I have better lighting. Typically, the speaker outputs on the main radio are where the Becker amplifiers are connected. When I acquired my W140, it was already equipped with the original Blaupunkt unit and a factory amplifier in the boot.

In this case, I'd bet on the swap.

I assume by "amp" you mean the central unit located in the trunk on the left side? Maybe you could elaborate on the make and model of the car we are considering. Does the date of the errors that return match?

I would recommend erasing the errors and rechecking the oecus because all of them are dated 2008.

It may be difficult to "guess" this without reading the codes, as previously mentioned.

https://www.torqueflow.co.uk/our-services/

Feel free to contact Imran at Torqueflow Birmingham. Maybe he can lend a hand.

To my question, I have the complete response. I didn't know that when you pick a destination, under Route Options, you can toggle "include charging stations" on or off, as well as set the minimum charge for the en route and the journey finish. Only that time out have I ever allowed!

There you have it, a hint. You have my gratitude. My personal "anxiety threshold" needs to be determined. It may have just missed the 30% mark because it was pointing me toward a charger seven miles away from my house on the way.

Allow me to paint you a picture. I'm confident in my battery's ability to get me home on a lengthy journey without charging. (Really made it with 30% of the total). Overnight at home was going to be my charging session. I just said "go home" to turn on the navigation system whenever I received a diversion. For the most part, I've been pleased thus far, and I'm not one to use voice commands—I like to press buttons. Thus, the GPS system activated, along with the battery conditioning, and the vehicle arbitrarily chose a charger along the way that I had no need for. With the battery life dwindling, I decided to give the command "stop battery conditioning" a try. An error message reading "Feature not supported" is displayed. I intended to utilise the navigation without a mid-route charging point, but cancelling the navigation was the only option I could think of to halt the battery heating. Can I get what I want just by speaking into the phone, or do I have to get out and fiddle with the settings? (Down the M5 at night, I despise menu surfing!). Does anyone have any ideas? Additionally, if someone knows of a good syntax guide, I would greatly appreciate it. Yours faithfully.

Hello there!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166294403076?_skw=Sealey+E/Start&epid=13017006776&itmmeta=01KFCZD1W7W67MZJXVYWEAJ81N&hash=item26b7eb3804:g:NboAAOSwY0Jk5d1E&itmprp=enc:AQALAAAA0O7PUuNWmJ++UShgI9tQz/r7aLOYGXQbqxpWCCKfn1tvwBz4Du6Y06SFuXdAhM+R7SSzffhK5Jp5iHWZwi0bhN1G0ZbUEXFKJ1a+9L8OybpbP+/ea6DOHPWOcrk9nxTK8tkJQCXLmUi9vNrLdHWkGQnHrZ+KimnXxUuWvl9A0MwjJgD6xf3Cti3jBxFbLnof1As8iVU3XlL9JNnsX4YYe/zvCvCkw2q+UyAeqteblsk93NmFiEZ3kOgsM9N7kqWC7iJUSQRZHS5gqJXW0YkD8bY=|tkp:Bk9SR6KetJ_7Zg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X32f0ff9abd1ad1d760a0f184c635f1c0&subId2=15

I possess a Sealey Electrostart, as referenced in the link, but I did not spend anything near that price; I continued to search for a deal and acquired two units for slightly over £110 each, specifically the 1600 amp models. Provided the car battery maintains a voltage over 5 volts, the vehicle will initiate without necessitating the frequent recharging of the pack, as it derives power from the residual charge in the car's battery.