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The functionality of the W218 Eco mode remains unresolved after to the installation of a new auxiliary battery.


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The model W218 2016 CLS 220D is being referred to.

The functionality of my ECO mode ceased to operate early this calendar year. The yellow ECO text is shown on the dashboard instead of the green box with inverted text, indicating that the activation of the feature has not occurred.
Additionally, it was observed that the air conditioning system failed to distribute cold air when operating at its lowest temperature setting. Furthermore, even when the temperature was set to 20 degrees Celsius, for instance, and the surrounding temperature was between 18-22 degrees Celsius, a noise like the sound of air passing over the top of a bottle was audible emanating from the vents.

The automotive service provider inspected the air conditioning system and reported that no issues were found. However, it was noted that the system does not emit cold air, but rather reaches a temperature that is at most 10 degrees lower than the surrounding environment. This observation is peculiar considering that the air conditioning system initially produced chilled air that was capable of causing numbness in the fingers. It is worth mentioning that a similar experience is observed with the Nissan Juke owned by my spouse.

In any case, it has been said that the auxiliary battery is the source of the issue. It is hypothesized that the issue may stem from a sensor inside the heating matrix, hence preventing the activation of the ECO mode due to failure to satisfy the requisite criteria, particularly if it perceives an inadequate ambient temperature. However, the prevailing belief is that the auxiliary battery is the root cause of the problem.

Today, a new auxiliary battery was installed, incurring a total cost of £200 for both the materials and labor involved.

The specific actions undertaken by the responsible party remain unclear, as the ECO mode functionality continues to be non-operational and the displayed text color persists as yellow rather than green.

I experienced a lack of engagement with the start/stop mechanism throughout my 30-minute commute home.

It is worth considering the possibility of doing a preliminary test, although one may question the need of doing so for a newly acquired battery. I proceeded to accelerate vigorously down a divided highway. The object in question remains yellow in color and exhibits impairments.

I am dissatisfied with the expenditure of £200 resulting in no tangible outcome. Furthermore, the dissatisfaction is heightened by the fact that they claimed to have resolved the issue, however it is evident that the problem persists upon just engaging the ignition.

Could you kindly provide any suggestions or recommendations, please?

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While there is a slight possibility that it may be attributed to another factor, it is important to note that this alternative explanation is tenuous at most.
Ideally, the new battery should have been subjected to a charging process prior to installation. However, in the absence of this precautionary measure, it may need several days for the battery to attain a sufficient charge level to enable the functioning of the stop/start feature. It is important to note that there are other requirements that must also be satisfied for the stop/start functionality to be operational.
From my perspective, I would advocate for allowing a period of around one week to elapse before contemplating any more actions.
Please provide us with an update on the progress of the situation.

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I have just completed a 20-mile drive on the highway, during which I deliberately deactivated the air conditioning, turned off the screen, and removed the USB cords in an attempt to provide a potential boost to the newly installed battery.
The indicator light on the dashboard of the vehicle remains illuminated in the yellow color, indicating that the eco mode is still engaged. I will let a few days to elapse in order to see the outcome.

It is somewhat perplexing because upon my attempt to retrieve the item, I am informed that it has been completed and is in working order, despite obvious evidence to the contrary.

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It is advisable to measure the voltage of both the newly installed auxiliary battery and the primary battery prior to starting the vehicle's engine.
A reading of 12.6 volts or above is often indicative of a fully charged lead acid battery. However, it is worth noting that if you own an AGM battery, the voltage reading may be higher than 12.6 volts.


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I am now experiencing confusion and a sense of bitterness.

I have returned the item to the vendor. After doing an examination, the individuals in question have determined that the primary battery is responsible for the issue at hand, as it is generating a mere 11.6 volts. Furthermore, the service provider demanded a payment of £370 or more for the replacement of the battery as well as the associated labor costs.

I have engaged in a dispute due to the imposition of a fee for an auxiliary battery, with the assertion that its installation will rectify the issue at hand, despite the fact that it did not. The vehicle diagnostics panel in the automobile displays engine data, indicating that the battery is generating a voltage of 14.7 volts. However, the current situation remains unclear.

It has been mutually decided that I will assume the cost of purchasing the new battery, while the labor price will be waived. However, I remain dissatisfied with having paid £200 last week for a repair that was unnecessary.

We will assess if the eco mode is ultimately resolved.

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It may be advisable to consider the purchase of a CTEK Battery Conditioner, namely either the MX5 or MX7 models. Undoubtedly, using the CTEK charger on your vehicle proves to be a more cost-effective alternative compared to purchasing a new battery. Additionally, the use of the CTEK charger contributes to an extended lifespan of the battery.
A significant number of individuals on this forum use the utilization of CTEK.

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It is possible that the auxiliary battery was also in a state of disrepair. The output of the alternator, which charges the battery, is 14.7 V. The provided information does not provide any insights into the battery. The voltage of the battery is measured in the absence of engine operation.
It seems that there may be an issue with the primary battery, necessitating its replacement. Is this the original version? If this is the case, it has been executed satisfactorily.

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A battery may have a single cell failure, resulting in an initially accurate charging voltage reading while the engine is operational. However, after the engine is turned off, the voltage level of the battery may subsequently drop below the designated threshold for a fully charged state. The activation of the ECO-drive is contingent upon the presence of the "Fully Charged" status flag. It should be noted that this particular kind of cellular malfunction might result in the vehicle starting smoothly without any issues, and no indications of alternator malfunctions or diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) being shown on the dashboard.

An exhaustive diagnostic examination need to include a load test, whereby a substantial number of A's are applied for a brief duration to simulate a crank. Additionally, the battery voltage should be measured when the engine is operational and all electrical consumers, such as the Infotainment system, heated seats, headlamps, and AC/Fan, are activated at a predetermined engine RPM. In order to eliminate any potential issues associated with the alternator, it is necessary to conduct a thorough examination.

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I have had a similar issue with my Range Rover, whereby the installation of a new battery did not resolve the malfunctioning stop-start feature. The dealer suggested that the individual should increase their use of the vehicle. The vehicle was brought to an Auto Electrician who retained possession of it for a duration of two days. During this time, the Auto Electrician made attempts to address the issue by using various strategies and allowing the vehicle to enter a dormant state before repeating the process. Discovered the presence of a parasitic drain. After the issue was resolved, no more complications were encountered. Furthermore, as previously said, it is advisable to get a Ctek charger, since this is a practice I have used for all of my vehicles.

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