Rojoires

TPMS is unrelated to the hardwired wheel speed sensor, which is used for anti-lock and anti-spin systems.

For winter, a completely waterproof vehicle cover is required. I use Monsoon vehicle coverings; this is the third cover I have acquired in 14 years, bought from Cover Craft. It is essential to choose covers with mirror pockets, as otherwise, the cover will lift in the middle. I wrap the automobile with old cotton sheets and secure them to the door handles.Subsequently, affix the automobile cover. The only issue with automobile coverings is securing them against the current winds. They may be used effectively. However, if you are able to

Could this indicate a more significant problem, such as deteriorated piston rings or valve seals? To what extent should I be concerned?

Please be patient, since the details are crucial. I purchased a MY07 R56 1.6 Cooper for my son in June, which had 62,000 miles, and he has been driving it until lately, when he returned to university. He likely travelled over 1600 miles, and I monitored the oil level weekly (he is inept at it), which seemed to remain consistent. Having sufficient time, I performed an oil and filter change after almost 64,000 miles, using the appropriate 5W30 Fuchs Titan GT1 Flex 23 oil. I have used it for around 200 miles since that time. The oil level seems to have decreased over that little distance. I have seen it emitting oil, with sporadic bursts of blue smoke visible in the mirrors when accelerating from a crossroads - I did not notice this while my son was driving, but what reason would I have to do so? Should I go to a 40 oil to see if it alleviates the burning? It may have been the contents of the automobile before. What is the optimal oil for a 64,000-mile Cooper R56 that consumes 5W30 in practical conditions? Any recommendations would be much appreciated!

My 3L diesel E53 often remains stationary for six weeks and starts normally. No rattles or other irregularities; it starts as it usually does.

The fan operates because the ECU detects a defect, serving as a protective measure. P0128 may be attributed to: Thermostat that is leaking or remains open Insufficient engine coolant level Inadequate warm-up duration Defective engine coolant temperature sensor; the sensor harness is either open or short-circuited. Deficient electrical connection in the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit Provided that the coolant is adequately filled and thoroughly bled, and the thermostat installed is both accurate and functional (the mere fact that it is new does not guarantee its efficacy), I would examine the coolant sensor harness and connection, as well as trace back to the ECU for any signs of damage, corrosion, or a compromised connector. I would consider replacing the sensor and then clearing the codes.

Thank you for providing the information. I will examine it.

I plan to postpone it till the servicing is scheduled.

Affirmative, the anterior one is functioning effectively.

I attempted to use the 12-volt power outlet located in the trunk to inflate the tires, but it seems that there is no electrical power being supplied to it. I have attempted it both with the engine running and with the engine turned off. Are there any recommendations or should I presume that the issue is with my car?

I trust that I am not the harbinger of catastrophe. Identifying the source of tapping or banging noises may be somewhat challenging. The sound in my automobile originated from the front top end and travelled to the back bottom end. Any factor that has a positive correlation with engine speed when the vehicle is not in motion should be thoroughly examined. I am unable to provide any words of solace. Apologies. Elevate the object and use a mechanics stethoscope to examine it. This may indicate the location of the knock. Best wishes.

Take a look at my thread documenting the process of restoring a 124.

I believe that they are designed to ensure that your wheels completely occupy the wheel arches, resulting in a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. As far as my knowledge extends, they will not enhance any other aspects, but they have the potential to generate certain imbalances. Please provide your comments, gentlemen. Thank you.

What is the reason behind choosing the name "silverfox"? Alternatively, why not?

However, it is important to note that you still own a transfer case and differentials.

The P06A8 code often indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has identified an abnormal reference voltage signal or a performance issue with a specific sensor labelled as "C". The sensor in issue is often linked to the automatic gearbox, transfer case or one of the differentials. Typically, there will be an additional sensor code that provides more precise information beside this code. The P06A8 code indicates that the sensor reference circuit voltage is either beyond the anticipated range or not performing as expected. To ascertain the position and use of the "C" sensor for the specific vehicle, go to a reliable source of vehicle information such as AllDataDIY. If the P06A8 code is saved by itself, it is likely indicative of a PCM programming mistake. Prior to addressing the P06A8 issue, it is necessary to first detect and correct any additional sensor codes.

The rate is essentially standard. Failure to use the air conditioning system results in the contraction of the seals, leading to the escape of the gas. Regas contains a fluid that aids in the resealing and repair of the system's seals.

Indeed, it is possible to use gas, but it is crucial to ensure that the gas used is appropriate and suitable. If the product is defective, it is advisable to seek warranty repair.

MB 269.2 Lubricating Paste A 001 989 14 51 Daimler AG, Stuttgart/Germany Principles for managing grease https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/

Quotation By MB BEVO Lubricating paste, Sheet 269.2 Intended for lubricating slide shoes on a sliding roof http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/269.2_en.html

The devastating force likely resulted from years of someone attempting to physically open or shut it forcefully. When the lever forcefully penetrated the housing, it is possible that I unintentionally did this due to my panicked actions in the rain. The lever refused to shut since the ball had detached from the main gear.

Are you referring to a complex or controversial issue? I accessed the malfunctioning device. Most likely caused by the gradual deterioration from use and maybe by individuals manually helping with the tailboard over time. It is likely that the leg with the ball and socket became free from the main gear, causing movement. As a result, the ball twisted out of and damaged the socket. Subsequently, it was pressed against the motor housing and, with continued usage, became trapped and broke the housing. The white cog below is powered by the electric motor. The primary mobile component, equipped with teeth, is propelled by a metallic gear located underneath the four cog assembly. There is no lubrication present on the black plastic gear on top or on the four cog section of both the damaged unit and the replacement used one. There is a little amount of material on the top lid of the device where it attaches to two mounting points. Furthermore, there are no additional damaged components. All other internal components seem to be in good condition. If I were to refrain from using the MB grease option, is there an alternative available at motor factors that can be purchased without a prescription for the metal and plastic components?

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I was hoping someone might provide the MB advice to avoid me from having to contact MB. I am uncertain about whether the white cog operates the primary mechanism. It is possible that it functions in opposition to a metal gear, but I will examine it again to confirm. The ball detached from its connection to the gear, causing the casing of the motor to fracture where it was punctured. Tonight, I may examine the damaged one to determine its cause.