Rojoires

Is there a drain plug on your torque converter? You fortunate individual! Consider us, the 722.6 5-speed enthusiasts. Some have a drain, whereas others did not. No rewards for deducing which one I received 😞

Congratulations - do you have any photographs?

😇

I will verify if the Amazon fish filter is effective. Curiously, I am unable to comprehend the input method of the RRC. I experience a lack of suction from those hood vents. When does it intake external air at this location?

I am also intrigued. I want to address this straightforward issue, but I am uncertain about the current practices in use.

Indeed? That is peculiar. A setting exists on the C Class.

There should be a setting that gentley picks up the ‘slack’ whenever you click in your seat belt clasp. Like a small embrace. standard on most C Class 205’s

One might partition the screen and scroll to show a clock. The timestamp in this video is 03:36.

I have had the c350e for the last two years and have just drove the new e350e, as I am considering a potential shift. It seems you own a SE model; the literature delineates the enhancements of the AMG variant. All PHEV versions include air suspension, with ride quality dictated by the settings. Both vehicles perform well; nevertheless, the E exhibits somewhat more composure because to its extended wheelbase. The Comfort option, however, imparts a floaty, disjointed sensation. Select Individual options and adjust them to your satisfaction. Specify the superior dashboard and the Premium Plus package; the E is an enjoyable environment. The engine noise is unappealing when the internal combustion engine activates. I am not making any changes; I am only awaiting the debut of a completely electric Mercedes that is not a B-Class.

Your optimal course of action is to first get a vehicle, followed by locating a reputable independent Mercedes expert in the vicinity. If you are unable to locate one, consider contacting the local authorised dealers. Regardless of the expert or dealer you choose, they will likely request that you bring the vehicle to them, mostly to facilitate inspection on a lift and secondarily to minimise both time and costs for you. I believe that a standard AA/RAC or general mechanic's examination will only identify overt apparent issues such as worn tires, degraded brakes, and damaged components or bodywork. They are unlikely to recognise the faults that bother you most and are the most costly to rectify, such as worn cam followers, deteriorated variable valve timing plates, and latent problems. If a specialist or authorised dealer is unavailable for the inspection, go to a MOT facility of your choice. They will not detect engine problems; nevertheless, they will provide some reassurance.

TPMS is unrelated to the hardwired wheel speed sensor, which is used for anti-lock and anti-spin systems.

For winter, a completely waterproof vehicle cover is required. I use Monsoon vehicle coverings; this is the third cover I have acquired in 14 years, bought from Cover Craft. It is essential to choose covers with mirror pockets, as otherwise, the cover will lift in the middle. I wrap the automobile with old cotton sheets and secure them to the door handles.Subsequently, affix the automobile cover. The only issue with automobile coverings is securing them against the current winds. They may be used effectively. However, if you are able to

Could this indicate a more significant problem, such as deteriorated piston rings or valve seals? To what extent should I be concerned?

Please be patient, since the details are crucial. I purchased a MY07 R56 1.6 Cooper for my son in June, which had 62,000 miles, and he has been driving it until lately, when he returned to university. He likely travelled over 1600 miles, and I monitored the oil level weekly (he is inept at it), which seemed to remain consistent. Having sufficient time, I performed an oil and filter change after almost 64,000 miles, using the appropriate 5W30 Fuchs Titan GT1 Flex 23 oil. I have used it for around 200 miles since that time. The oil level seems to have decreased over that little distance. I have seen it emitting oil, with sporadic bursts of blue smoke visible in the mirrors when accelerating from a crossroads - I did not notice this while my son was driving, but what reason would I have to do so? Should I go to a 40 oil to see if it alleviates the burning? It may have been the contents of the automobile before. What is the optimal oil for a 64,000-mile Cooper R56 that consumes 5W30 in practical conditions? Any recommendations would be much appreciated!

My 3L diesel E53 often remains stationary for six weeks and starts normally. No rattles or other irregularities; it starts as it usually does.

The fan operates because the ECU detects a defect, serving as a protective measure. P0128 may be attributed to: Thermostat that is leaking or remains open Insufficient engine coolant level Inadequate warm-up duration Defective engine coolant temperature sensor; the sensor harness is either open or short-circuited. Deficient electrical connection in the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit Provided that the coolant is adequately filled and thoroughly bled, and the thermostat installed is both accurate and functional (the mere fact that it is new does not guarantee its efficacy), I would examine the coolant sensor harness and connection, as well as trace back to the ECU for any signs of damage, corrosion, or a compromised connector. I would consider replacing the sensor and then clearing the codes.

Thank you for providing the information. I will examine it.

I plan to postpone it till the servicing is scheduled.

Affirmative, the anterior one is functioning effectively.

I attempted to use the 12-volt power outlet located in the trunk to inflate the tires, but it seems that there is no electrical power being supplied to it. I have attempted it both with the engine running and with the engine turned off. Are there any recommendations or should I presume that the issue is with my car?

I trust that I am not the harbinger of catastrophe. Identifying the source of tapping or banging noises may be somewhat challenging. The sound in my automobile originated from the front top end and travelled to the back bottom end. Any factor that has a positive correlation with engine speed when the vehicle is not in motion should be thoroughly examined. I am unable to provide any words of solace. Apologies. Elevate the object and use a mechanics stethoscope to examine it. This may indicate the location of the knock. Best wishes.

Take a look at my thread documenting the process of restoring a 124.

I believe that they are designed to ensure that your wheels completely occupy the wheel arches, resulting in a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. As far as my knowledge extends, they will not enhance any other aspects, but they have the potential to generate certain imbalances. Please provide your comments, gentlemen. Thank you.

What is the reason behind choosing the name "silverfox"? Alternatively, why not?