Rojoires

Thank you everyone. I am attempting to communicate with the dealer who sold me the car in order to persuade them to assume responsibility for the expenses associated with repairing it, or alternatively, to do the repairs themselves. However, I am also seeking assistance here to see whether anybody else has encountered a similar situation and is aware of the appropriate solution. Optimally, the goal is to resolve the issue efficiently and expeditiously for all parties concerned. The dealer from where the car was purchased seems to lack the expertise to repair it, since they are not an authorised Kia dealership. The Kia shop in my area, which is unconnected to the issue at hand, recommended replacing the back tyres. However, I was dissatisfied by the dealer's lack of certainty over whether this would resolve the problem. If anybody has encountered this problem and discovered a solution, it would greatly benefit me to have the ability to guide the dealer towards the appropriate course of action. Seeking to minimise recurring trips to several garages without achieving any repairs.

I am now experiencing a problem with the TPMS sensor on my just purchased 2020 Kia XCeed, which occurred within the last two months. The TPMS warning is activated. Subsequently, I bring the car back to its place of origin and allow it to remain there overnight, allowing the tyres to reach a lower temperature. After the car has cooled down, I check the tyre pressures and confirm that they are all accurate. Subsequently, I use the TPMS button inside the vehicle to recalibrate the tyre pressures, doing this by maintaining pressure on the button for a duration of 3 seconds, so eliminating the alert. However, usually after 5-10 minutes of starting my next drive, the TPMS alert reappears. I have performed this procedure an indeterminate number of times! Thus far, I have returned the car to the dealership from whom I made the purchase, as well as to a nearby Kia dealership. Both individuals have been unsuccessful in resolving the problem and are uncertain about the appropriate solution. The technician at the Kia store said that a potential reason of the issue might be an inconsistency in the tread depth of the two rear tyres. Specifically, one of the rear tyres has a tread depth of 5mm, while the other three tyres have a tread depth of 7mm. He suggested that I consider replacing the two rear tyres, stating that it "could potentially resolve the issue." Has anybody encountered this problem and identified its root cause? I am hesitant to spend over £200 on purchasing two new rear tyres, especially considering that it is only speculative that this action would resolve the problem. Thank you in advance for any assistance.

Perhaps it would be beneficial to provide a hyperlink to a video within this platform, so enabling others to provide guidance and recommendations on the issue of noise. Are you familiar with the car's service history? If there is any uncertainty, it is advisable to start the maintenance process by doing an oil and filter replacement, using oil that adheres to the appropriate specifications and a filter of satisfactory quality. This approach is recommended due to its cost-effectiveness, simplicity, and absence of adverse effects. If the aforementioned troubleshooting steps do not resolve the issue, it would be advisable to seek the professional opinion of a specialist on the potential chain-related problem. However, it is worth noting that it would be unexpected for a vehicle with a mileage of 109,000 miles, namely the om642 model, to encounter such an issue.

A suitable coolant is composed of certain ingredients that enable it to maintain a lower temperature, unlike water which is prone to boiling. Therefore, the term "summer coolant" is used to describe the practise of using tap water in an engine, which may lead to increased heat and potential damage to the engine.

It is highly recommended to use Mercedes ready mixed coolant as opposed to distilled water, since the latter is primarily employed for battery replenishment purposes.The presence of water inside the washer bottle is deemed acceptable.

The vehicle successfully passed the Ministry of Transport (MOT) inspection, despite having just one operational fog light, which might be considered a positive outcome. I am curious to ascertain if the primary fog lights are intended to operate in conjunction with the spoiler lighting or whether they are deactivated when the spoiler is installed.

Thank you for providing that information. I had previously conducted an examination to see whether they had failed the Ministry of Transportation (MOT) test, and as you have correctly said, they have not undergone testing. I am intrigued by the efforts undertaken by other van owners. I am unlikely to expend effort in replacing the faulty item. I seldom need the use of fog lights.

Greetings. I have scheduled a MOT appointment for my Vito 120 Sport X on Tuesday, and as a precautionary measure, I have decided to inspect the lights beforehand. I am experiencing an issue with my fog lights. The lower front spoiler of my van is equipped with fog lights. The near side is non-functional and the dashboard illuminates to indicate the presence of a faulty bulb. It is hypothesised that a previous issue has occurred in the lower region, as shown by the damaged trim on the inside of the wheel arch and the absence of a protective barrier for the rear portion of the lamp unit against wheel wash. Upon removing the rear cover of the light unit, it is evident that the internal components are in a disorganised state. It seems that there is a need for a new light. I would want to inquire if it is necessary to retain functional fog lights inside the headlight modules. It is evident that there are bulbs there, however, none of them emits light. Does the installation of the Brabus front spoiler render them superfluous? I express my gratitude for your assistance.

It is necessary to maintain a neutral position by engaging via the passenger side. It is not possible for someone to shift the automobile into neutral and exit the vehicle via the driver's side door. The vehicle will automatically engage the locking mechanism upon opening and closing the driver's side door. I received assistance from a single individual at a specific carwash establishment who was able to successfully resolve my issue. On alternate occasions, I communicate to them the need of seeking assistance in the event of unfamiliarity with the task, urging them to accompany someone experienced in its execution. Regrettably, I am unable to provide more precise details at this time. However, I am aware that a potential solution exists, which involves executing a certain action from the passenger side.

The dealership required a significant amount of time to identify the underlying cause of the creaking suspension issue on my S203 vehicle.

It is likely that a modification of the sensor will be necessary in order to initiate a reset. I attempted to inspect the back end of my spouse's vehicle and found that the sensor seemed to be in satisfactory condition. However, despite my efforts to reset it, I had difficulties in achieving the desired outcome. I was required to modify the sensor.

Did the brake pads exhibit a low level of wear when you replaced them? In BMW vehicles, the sensors operate in a two-stage manner. When the first stage of the sensor becomes worn out, there is no visual indication in the form of a light, but the iDrive counter decreases. Subsequently, an indicator of service is often received following the completion of around 500 kilometers. When the second stage is in operation, it illuminates the orange pad light on the instrument panel.

Based on previous discussions, it seems that you had a configuration consisting of Eibach springs and Koni red shocks. I am taken aback by your recommendation of the yellow dampers, since my understanding was that the yellow dampers are characterized by a higher level of stiffness, while the red dampers are generally considered more appropriate for street applications. Have you experimented with both options and developed a new preference?

Have you experimented with Meths or a ceramic hob cleaner?

The rationale for BMW's decision to designate the M60 840ci as the 840i remains unclear. However, it is worth noting that this nomenclature was indeed used by the company. The decision to include sensors was well made.

I had a similar problem with my 2013 Evoque vehicle. While doing research on potential solutions, I encountered the following information on the process of rectifying the issue. It seems that this is a frequently seen phenomenon. What are the potential causes for the occurrence of a cracked front bumper on a Range Rover Evoque? Baron and Herskowitz

Is this statement authentic and accurate? I have been searching for a handbook for my S3 vehicle for a duration of one year. Despite purchasing three various discs, including Elsawin, none of them have proven functional. This persistent issue has been a source of frustration for me. May I have a duplicate or, at the very least, the title of the DVD? Thank you in advance.

For your information, it should be noted that the term "HPI clear" does not necessarily indicate the absence of any previous accidents involving the automobile. This implies that the vehicle in question has not been engaged in an accident resulting in repair expenses that would render it uneconomical to fix. In the context of a relatively new and valuable automobile, this might include significant damage that remains financially viable to repair. The act of substitution is often uncommon, unless in cases of accident-related repairs.

Wishing you a pleasant experience with your LR3 vehicle. I am in possession of a 2013 LR4 vehicle. I really appreciate it. The P38 aircraft has a perpetual status as a personal pursuit and leisure activity for me. Despite continuing to engage in significant off-road expeditions, the LR4 offers enhanced drivability in several aspects. I want to persuade Arnott to revert to the previous connections, since the introduction of new connectors has proven to be a significant obstacle for me. If the Dunlops perform adequately, then it may be considered satisfactory. If the opportunity arises, I would consider revisiting Arnotts in the event that they are willing to implement certain modifications.

Currently, the Dunlops do not seem to present any issues (hoping for a positive outcome). The springs were separated by the use of a valving system, and it was seen that the ride height remained unchanged throughout the course of one night. Nevertheless, there exists a peculiar and novel pattern of conduct. Upon entering the garage at a highway height, with the intention of ensuring clearance for my garage door, I have seen that upon turning off the engine, the front end of the vehicle experiences a discernible decrease in elevation, estimated to be around 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Upon initiation, it rapidly returns to its original position. The reproducibility of this phenomenon is not guaranteed. One such explanation might be the use of front ride height sensors. I am optimistic about the outcome. I possess a strong affinity for the EAS and am committed to doing the necessary measures to ensure its sustenance. Richard G, who has extensive expertise in this domain, strongly favors the Dunlop brand. This preference is mostly influenced by the subpar quality control shown by Arnott, along with the introduction of new hose fittings, which ultimately caused Richard G to go back to Dunlop.

I am uncertain about the exclusivity of my predicament; however, I deem it necessary to document my personal experience, with the intention of maybe mitigating any inconvenience for others. I have lately made a purchase of a set of new Generation 3 components for my 1999 P38 HSE vehicle. There were two primary concerns: The air line intake to the spring is not the conventional "push to connect" (PTC) fitting anymore. The existing springs are equipped with an additional connector that allows for the insertion of a 6mm nylon pipe, similar to the Push-to-Connect (PTC) mechanism. However, it is not possible to detach the pipe by depressing a collet. Evidently, the task at hand was deemed too straightforward. The subsequent step involves the detachment of a fitting by unscrewing in order to extract the pipe, so facilitating the removal of the spring. Due of the little space between the frame and the rear spring, doing this task is quite challenging, particularly from my perspective. Fortunately, I made this discovery prior to the installation of the spring. The plastic casting located on the top of the spring's back is specifically designed to conform to a template on the frame. Despite spending an hour attempting to fit it, the casting remained incompatible even after some filing. I contacted Arnott technical support and received assistance from a someone who was both knowledgeable and accommodating. Ultimately, he proposed that I initiate the process of returning the spring and get a set from an other vendor. This recommendation stems from the possibility that during the production of a new batch of springs, there may be slight discrepancies in the casting. Consequently, it is plausible that I may be able to obtain springs from a different production batch. The assistance provided was limited in its effectiveness. For the last eight years, I used the Arnott Gen 3 in my P38, which proved to be satisfactory. However, the performance of the newer models did not meet my expectations. I have returned to Dunlops. The PTC fitting was retained and fitted with exceptional precision.