dave783

Hello, everyone. I purchased a W126 300SE from 1992, which is said to have an authentic AMG bodykit installed by the manufacturer. I purchased it impulsively due to its low price and appealing appearance. I'm seeking information on these bodykits. How do I authenticate this one? Were they indeed installed at the factory? Can you share any intriguing facts? I am having difficulty finding any information regarding them and would really appreciate your assistance. Thank you!

The sounder on these automobiles is located beneath the hood.

Thank you for your response. Since the vehicle's ignition switch has already been replaced, I will attempt to move the car into the shed and begin inspecting the connections. Is it advisable to prioritise the inspection of ground connections initially? I have seen that my video has not been posted either. 🤷‍♂️

Greetings, individuals. I am now experiencing some difficulties with my 2009 w204 C250 cdi. The issue arose during a drive on the motorway when the dashboard illuminated the ESP warning light and displayed a series of problems. ESP/abs not accessible The ESP system is currently not accessible. The run flat system is not yet accessible. The Speedtronic cruise control is not available. Presafe system not operational Simultaneously, the dashboard seemed to be intermittently activating and deactivating, accompanied by the illumination of the brake warning light. The vehicle exhibits symptoms of gear disengagement and sliding gearbox, resulting in increased engine revolutions. Concurrently, the Power Assisted Steering (PAS) system fails to function during this occurrence. The primary high-intensity headlights intermittently illuminate and extinguish. The engine's pre-heat indicator is intermittently glowing. This may include a mixture of any or all of the aforementioned options. After the automobile is shut off, the dash ticks and the needles exhibit little bouncing. However, the most significant issue is that once the engine is turned off, there is a frequent occurrence of failure to restart, with the engine not even turning over. Typically, but not always, disconnecting a battery terminal for a few hours will enable the vehicle to be restarted. Occasionally, it seems to spontaneously rectify the issue temporarily, only to go back to its original state shortly thereafter. The issue first manifested as sporadic, but it has gradually deteriorated. As a result, I have been without a functioning vehicle for many days now. I lack confidence in the car's ability to restart and safely transport me to my destination. The Mercedes-Benz expert I consult with has attempted many troubleshooting measures, including the installation of a different Signal Acquisition Module (SAM), a new Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS), a new Electronic Steering Lock (ESL), thorough examination of grounding connections and wiring, replacement of the battery, and analysis of diagnostic codes, all of which consistently indicate the presence of CAN communication issues. Initially, the situation was frustrating, but now I am considering driving my wife's vehicle to the repair shop to get a replacement battery and a gallon of gas. I appreciate anyone who have read thus far and I would be glad for any insights or information anybody can provide. I was unable to locate any information throughout the search. Moderators, if this question has been previously asked or violates any rules, please handle it accordingly. 🙂 I own a little film capturing the dash in action, which I will promptly upload from my mobile device.

Using baby wipes and then a cotton bud consecutively is an effective method to reach and clean hard-to-reach corners.

I do not use a single one.I purchased a Hand Held Vacuum Pump Brake Bleeder Set Bleed tester Tool Kit with 2 Jars for Car Bike UK 788537801016 from eBay. However, if you are not skilled in do-it-yourself projects, I recommend purchasing a large cigar. Exercise caution to avoid burning your fingertips while the match burns completely.

Have you replaced the OVP relay -- Create a homemade smoke machine.I use a container equipped with a cover that features three apertures - the first one intended for a tyre valve, the second one for a nylon tube, and the third one for an outdated soldering iron. All three components must be tightly sealed within the lid to prevent any smoke from escaping. First, place the material in the bottom of the jar. Then, thoroughly soak the rag with baby oil. Finally, tightly screw on the lid to ensure it is airtight. Subsequently, proceed to inflate the jar using a tyre pump.In order for smoke to be produced on a low heat, the soldering iron must come into direct contact with the cloth. Detach the brake servo booster line and firmly attach the nylon hose originating from the jar. Activate the soldering iron to heat the duster or substance within the jar until it begins to smoulder. Inspect for leaks using a high-quality torch.

I have never had any issues while uploading anything from YouTube in the past.

Use a smoke machine, namely the M103 W124 model, to detect and locate any leaks in the hoover system.

To identify and address vacuum leaks in the M103 W124 engine, it is recommended to use a smoke machine. This device will help you detect any leaks more effectively.

In the event of a hoover leak, the smoke will just dissipate. You own an identical W124 model as mine. What difficulties are you now experiencing?

I believe the toffee wheel will be too large to fit inside the spaces.

Thank you for your assistance, everyone.I am uncertain whether I have ever seen acetone at a retail establishment, but I am certain that I can get some nail varnish remover.

Greetings, everyone. Having extensively reviewed several posts on this topic, I apologise for maybe posing a mundane issue once again. After thoroughly cleaning my alloy wheels, I have noticed that there are still remnants of adhesive residue from the wheel weights present, causing uneven areas on the surface. Is there a reliable (and preferably effortless) product or technique available to eliminate the adhesive residue that remains after removing wheel weights from alloy wheels? Attached is a picture (not taken by me).

I will provide a more comprehensive evaluation at a later time, as I am now occupied but wanted to share my first thoughts. I successfully mounted the 12-inch display and it works well without any significant problems.

There are currently no updates available. During my conversations with my superiors, they shared anecdotes of instances when the installation of aftermarket stereos resulted in automobiles being unable to start or caused complete system failure. I have a tendency to be concerned about these matters, so I have been actively searching for a professional to handle the installation. However, I have not been successful in finding one so far. Given its Asian origin and the intricate IDrive system, I see a potential catastrophe. However, this is only my own viewpoint, since others may have other opinions. I am considering taking decisive action by the end of the week and personally installing it. I will provide an update if this occurs.

I was likewise in search of a 12-inch display and I was unable to locate a verified and dependable touch screen for Android. Nevertheless, Seicane offers a 12" android display, prompting me to make the decision to buy it. The website link provided is: https://www.seicane.com/for-2011-201...on-system-h879 I have not yet installed the system, but I will certain to come back here and provide an update.

Thank you for providing the information. I have placed an order with an independent supplier for a new auxiliary battery for the figment device. It is anticipated that the battery will be delivered sometime this week. I will provide an update on the result after the replacement has been received and tested.

I have been in possession of the automobile from its initial acquisition, since it was allocated to me as a corporate vehicle. There have been no discernible incidents that may have initiated the occurrence, no extensive journeys undertaken, and no exposure to any instances of flooding. Moreover, the vehicle in question had maintenance procedures in June of the year 2023, performed by my customary independent service provider. The only individual with whom I have interacted on this platform is my spouse, and even that encounter was just a casual encounter in a public establishment. The vehicle has accumulated a total mileage of 48,600 kilometres. Currently, I am seeing a malfunction alert that is displaying an orange outline of the vehicle, without any other information. I experienced an additional alert, namely an auxiliary battery warning, although on a singular occasion.

Seeking assistance, gentlemen. I am in possession of a 2016 C350e vehicle and it seems that the suspension system is now fixed at its maximum height configuration. The vehicle seems to resemble a 4x4 or pickup truck, and the ride quality is notably harsh. The vehicle's suspension does not exhibit a decrease in height while operating in sport or sport+ mode, nor does it undergo any reduction in height when travelling at speeds over 35 miles per hour. Each of the four corners has identical characteristics, with no discernible areas of lower elevation. In addition to the aforementioned matter, which has persisted for a duration of nearly two weeks, the Command system has started a recurring cycle of rebooting as of today. The display activates for around 30 seconds before shutting off and then restarting, returning to the first startup screen of the motherboard. The duration for which the screen remains active is insufficient in the event that adjustments to vehicle settings are required. Is it a mere coincidence, or is there a presence of common resources across these systems?

Although I do not have a personal affiliation with them, I have used their services for a variety of audio enhancements, as have several individuals within this community.

I recommend contacting ComandOnline since they may provide you with many solutions.

The filter seems to be satisfactory.Taking into consideration the aforementioned statement, it is worth noting that the subject in question is of significant age, namely 13 years old.

I am uncertain about your reference to "half way down." Nevertheless, it is recommended that the oil level on the dipstick be positioned at the midpoint between the minimum and maximum indicators. This measurement should be taken five minutes after the engine has been turned off, when it has reached its typical operating temperature. This presupposes the possession of a dipstick. In an alternative formulation, it is advisable to switch off the engine on a flat area subsequent to an extended drive. Ideally, this would occur at a refuelling break on a lengthy voyage, when the terrain is level and the engine has reached its typical operating temperature. Following this, it is recommended to wait for a duration of 5 minutes before proceeding to inspect the oil levels. The time required for refuelling and completing the payment process is almost same. Have you conducted several iterations of verification in the past, and if so, have you seen a decrease in magnitude across successive observations? Upon initial acquisition or after a maintenance procedure, it is reasonable to anticipate that the value in question would reside at the median position between the minimum and maximum values. Consequently, if the value indeed aligns with this midpoint, it may be inferred that it has not seen any significant decrease in use.

I am curious about the utilisation of bore scope inspection and cylinder compression testing. It appears that the individuals involved in the assessment believe that the conducted coolant combustion and pressure testing has provided sufficient information. However, I will contemplate this matter further, taking into consideration the engine's continued strong performance, absence of exhaust obstructions, and absence of coolant contamination in the oil. Naturally, in the event that the head gaskets (HGs) are deemed to be in satisfactory condition, it is plausible that the block may have incurred damage due to overheating. Consequently, it is reasonable to consider the replacement of the engine, since investing £1400 just for the purpose of testing the block seems imprudent. However, it is worth noting that opting for a used engine entails a significant degree of risk, thereby perpetuating a cycle of deliberation. There are allegedly pre-tested blocks available for purchase on eBay for a price of £600. However, it is important to consider the associated risks, work, and overall cost, which ultimately make this option more riskier than purchasing an entirely unknown engine. In addition, it is hypothesised that the initial cause of this situation was likely a radiator leak, followed by excessive use of sealant, leading to the obstruction of the coolant system, including the heating system. Consequently, the overheating occurred due to the escape of coolant under high pressure. As a result, the current state of the vehicle suggests a potential cracked engine block and probable failure of the head gasket on the coolant side, rather than the oil side. Despite these issues, the vehicle's performance remains unaffected, as evidenced by clear oil and exhaust emissions. Furthermore, the coolant system experiences extreme pressure, resulting in bubbling and leakage upon shutdown. I was seeking information from anyone who have experience with engine replacement, particularly if it pertains to a TDV6 engine. The narratives I have seen on this platform pertain to accounts of unfortunate experiences with high-end automobiles that have beyond their warranty period. These accounts often include exorbitant cost estimates from LR (Land Rover) and a reluctance on their part to accept responsibility for the issues at hand.