MrGreedy

That seems like a very obvious oversight, so here's hoping....

I'm reviving my topic since I never did figure out what was causing the whining while the engine was on. I removed the undercarriage cover to discover that the noise was not coming from the belt but rather the air conditioning pump. We need to know: what might it be?....under intense stress?Is that....? Since it had just been regassed before the noise began, I'm going to think that the pressure is too high. Any thoughts? When it comes to automobiles, air conditioning is not my forte.

The noise is not coming via the vents, and there is no leak. I suspect that my problem is different. Car air conditioning systems naturally lose refrigerant....up to around 10% each year....which is why it gradually becomes warmer over time and why you will need to recharge it every few years to maintain it at 100% efficiency. The low pressure switch should turn off the air conditioner to prevent damage.

Which is it, the red or the white?! Anyway, I've lately observed that the subtle engine speed whine that has always been there in my wife's low-mileage A169 A Class (A170 Elegance) has gotten substantially louder. Having crawled under the vehicle (if you've never worked on one of these, the engine is essentially beneath the car; changing the spark plugs requires you to do so!! ), we had a look. The noise is most likely coming from the air conditioning compressor, which is located next to the driver's door on the driver's side of the vehicle. All systems are go, yet the AC is STILL frigid. I'm curious to know whether anybody else has experienced this and, if so, how they resolved it. For the record, my wife had the air conditioner recharged throughout the summer without incident. However, that was many months ago, and the whining has just now become more evident, so it might just be a coincidence. Please let me know if you have any ideas or further information.

To sum up:.TV is out.

I/we possess both The squared-off version is preferable in most cases, while the other comes in handy when working in confined spaces. TV

This response is somewhat extensive. First of all, tell me how the faulty upstream NOx sensor was identified. There have been at least four versions that I am aware of on this side, but the newest and greatest has an NGK sensor tip linked to a Bosch solid state box approximately halfway up the cord, and this setup generates its very own computer page. What is the component number listed on the box's reverse side? Let's say the new part was better than the old one, but it still required SCN coding after installation so that it could communicate with the engine control module (ECM). The upstream NOx sensor must provide NOx information in LIVE DATA., and the automobile must re-generate automatically after around 30 miles of driving once the technology has been implemented. If there is almost any measurable signal, either air is leaking into the "zorst system upstream or the Cat is blocked. The EBP and diff pressure sensor data should then be validated in HPa. So you go back to the store to find out what happened.. When doing a road test, if upstream is confirmed to be functioning, what is the function of the rear NOx sensor? When the system is functioning, the two numbers should be added together, and there should be at least a 50% decrease throughout the SCR cat. More than 75% decrease is possible with new sensors and an SCR cat. So far, we've been able to prove at least that it's functional by touching the scan tool and printing out the numbers as you drive with an aide. According to your description, the system "sees" after a number of drive cycles that the two sensors are not SCN coded and can't "talk" to one another. It's like attempting to go on a date with a stunning foreign beauty if you can't communicate with her in her own language. Exists confusion! Oh my, Mr. Smoothy, you blew a golden chance. Third Proposition and Question Adblue DEF fluid MUST be injected into the system as necessary for NOx reduction to take place. A bidirectional scan tool was also used to verify fluid injection into the SCR cat through the DEF pump.The pump has to be able to produce 5000 HPa, have the pressure backed down by the return system, and have an operating pressure of around 3600 HPa. These are crucial, as is making sure the DEF fluid has the right specific gravity and that the dosing injector hasn't been clogged with crystals. So, here's the useful Certainly, you can use an O2 plug. Use a long knuckle bar and opt for a cranked approach; don't tinker with it. When I'm sure the sensor is bad, I'll occasionally just snip the wires at the end of the harness and use a double-depth 1/2-inch socket to pry the thing out. If the boss is stuck, you may require a penetrant like Plus Gas and a plumber's MAP gas torch to loosen it. About what would a shop charge once installed? About $250, including programming and a road test to verify the system's performance; the client receives and keeps the test printouts on the completed R/O. I'm hoping that clarifies things for you. Best wishes👍

As a general rule, yes. After cleaning and clearing the threads, insert the sensor and turn it in until it is flush with the housing. You may recycle one in thirds. Alternatively consult the NGK O2 sensor experts who MB hired to do it (NOx sensors) "right" as the chassis is identical:-. Adjust the torque according the guidelines below: M18 sensors (threaded sensors of 18mm diameter) - Tighten the O2 sensor socket to 26-33 foot-pounds by hand before giving it a half turn to a full turn with a wrench. M12 sensors (threaded sensors, 18 mm in diameter) Wrench/O2 sensor socket, 13.2–17 ft. lbs., finger tight installation, then 3/4–1 turn. Remember the old nursing adage, "Steady as she goes," and tighten everything just as much as necessary to avoid crushing the sealing washer on the new sensor. Yes, they must be SCN coded in with a Star, but some small businesses pay to have this done by Autologic, which offers remote wifi program assistance. Tuercas viejas Andele pues Amistades

I've tried using plastic-coated curtain wire and, if that doesn't work, welding rod with a copper coating. The drain tube requires special attention since it is easily broken. Is the bulkhead drain not working since it's next to the bonnet hinge? To get this one out of the way, I had to use welding rod to climb up behind the arch liner.

In any case, do you have any recommendations for reputable businesses? And in the same vein, are there any to avoid? By the way, I am now located in Surrey.... I would contact MSL performance and GAD and inquire about the many alternatives that are available to you.

When it came to waistbands with elastic, I had the same opinion. A warm welcome awaits you! I'm sorry, but I don't have any information on the issue with the center console.

I would just want to add that in the more than two years that we've had our C Class, we've never received a report that was entirely incorrect. I mentioned the event with the plastic bottle; the only other alarm that we've ever received was when my father-in-law shook the vehicle while it was parked and secured because he felt there could be a loose wheel bolt. I mentioned the incident with the plastic bottle. That sums it up well.

When the wind was really strong, it once triggered mine, and I received an alarm for the whole vehicle.

On October 24th, I bought a white Niro 2 with ADAP with the provision that if delivery is delayed by April 1st, 2017, the order would be cancelled and I will retain my 2015 Venga 3 auto. The dealer asserts that he is unable to get a construction or delivery date.

Bent and rusty where it's been used a lot.It might be possible to fix, but there could be more rust.Replacing seems to be the choice.Steve..

I bought a Master Cylinder from Lucky8 and attempted to install it in my 1998 Honda Accord, but the sub-zero temperatures prevented me from finishing the job. The business that completed the work has a good reputation. The brakes were completely seized when I picked it up the next day. After I went back inside, they took it for a test run outside. Lines were bled again once it came back inside. It was the same for approximately three months. Once again, after a few months, I had to replace the MC. I found MC of a different brand that worked for a whole year. The moral of the story is to fix the original. I really hope so!!

Hello, I'm new here and am looking for the solution to this particular problem. My vehicle is a 1990 SEi, which I assume has a thin body as the 'W' in SEiW is likely an acronym for wide? Could someone just clarify that I'm not being completely stupid? If I'm mistaken, will someone please measure how broad or how narrow their vehicle is so we have something to compare it against? A wide is 2 inches broader than a narrow, which is excellent to know, but how wide is a narrow?

Hi All The oil warning light on a 2009 Land Rover Range Rover illuminates when the engine is stationary. The oil/filter and cleanse have been performed, but the problem persists. Can anyone assist?