MrGreedy

Do you have any new information to share? I am considering making a purchase, however I would want to read a review before making a decision.

I express my sincere gratitude for the provided replies. After considering observation on the close proximity of Fuchs and Mercedes factories, I have arrived at the conclusion to go for Fuchs. I express my gratitude for your assistance.

reetings, esteemed individuals, I am prepared to undertake the task of doing a "drain and fill" procedure on the automatic gearbox of my W202 C230K vehicle, without including a gearbox control fluid change. Despite receiving guidance from Olly, the complexity of that particular component, including the banjo bolt, remains perplexing. I have already acquired the necessary components for the task at hand, including a dipstick, filter, gasket, drain plug o-ring, electronics bushing, and a thermometer. I am in the process of purchasing a quantity of 5 litres of fluid, and I wanted to get confirmation from you all before proceeding. After careful consideration, I have identified the Fuchs brand as a suitable option for the new gearboxes, since it is certified on the Mercedes-Benz specification sheet. There have been reports of using the recently developed fluid in the previous iteration of the 722.The use of six boxes facilitates enhanced operational efficiency. The automotive product being referred to is the Fuchs ATF 4134, which is compatible with the MB Spec 236.14 and 236.12 as well as the ATF 134. This product is available for purchase on Amazon.com in a one-liter bottle. Is this product of satisfactory quality, or would it be more advisable to continue using products from Shell or Mercedes? I express my gratitude in advance for taking the time to read this message.

It is important to use care. Due to the complete removal of ions, deionized water exhibits a surprisingly caustic nature, rendering it unsuitable for use as a coolant in radiators. Consider this perspective: Tap water often contains a variety of ions, including calcium, magnesium, chloride, fluoride, and others. While these ions are not present in a saturated state, they form a somewhat stable solution. By removing all the existing ions, there is enough space available to acquire more ions, such as aluminium and iron, from a radiator or engine block. The user's text is already academic. The incorporation of a corrosion inhibitor/anti-freeze into a solution offers the additional function of mitigating the potential corrosive effects of deionized (DI) water on metallic surfaces.

I am now located in New York City and have developed a routine of deactivating the air conditioning system and allowing the coils to undergo a drying process prior to the conclusion of each excursion. In the absence of appropriate measures, it is likely that an odour would gradually manifest in all of my automobiles. The approach that was effective for me included obtaining an AC coil cleaning from AutoZone and according to the provided instructions. To maximise airflow, adjust the fan setting to its highest level and apply a spray over the external air conditioning intake of the vehicle. Replacing the evaporator may be considered an extreme measure; nevertheless, if the warranty covers the cost of this replacement without any further charges to you, it may be a viable option. What are the reasons for not doing so?

The 750i xDrive M Sport model was equipped with a 19-inch wheel size and a square tire arrangement measuring 245/45. If the width of the rear wheels is sufficient to accommodate the 275, then this configuration would be considered optimal.

It is advisable to do a first search on the Google platform to see if one's vehicle is really impacted by the Dieselgate scandal. If the situation does not pertain to one's own circumstances, there is no need for concern.

Herein lies an additional perspective on the matter... The Macan serves as a reliable and efficient workhorse, equipped with desirable specifications. It is recommended to use the vehicle accordingly and get satisfaction from its performance. Spyder is an exceptionally unique entity. There is a cessation in production. The GT2RS may be described as an exceptionally unique and remarkable vehicle. Why would one choose to dispose of a rare vehicle that may become very difficult to get again in the future (should one chose to or regret parting with it), just to purchase an upgraded and utilitarian vehicle with perhaps more features or enhancements? It is evident that you possess a strong affinity for automobiles, as your sentiments about the Spyder and GT2RS models reflect a deep connection rooted in emotion and passion. It is reasonable to surmise that these particular models evoke a greater sense of emotional fulfillment and passion compared to the Macan, given its distinct characteristics and performance capabilities. Consequently, it is advisable to maintain your current automobile collection in its present state and allocate more time to engage with the aforementioned specialized vehicles. After each excursion in my Spyder, I consistently express great enthusiasm and admiration for the experience.

In a span of 9 months, I have accumulated a much greater mileage of 6,000 miles in my 718 Spyder compared to your mileage over a period of 2 years. I have a strong affinity for the Spyder vehicle and am uncertain about potential alternatives in the event of its hypothetical sale, a scenario that I do not see occurring within the foreseeable future. I have not had the opportunity to operate a GT2 RS vehicle. That is likely to possess a significant level of uniqueness or distinction. If I had to make a decision, I would choose to retain the Spyder and GT2RS models, while forgoing the acquisition of a new Macan. It is advisable to retain the current possessions and get satisfaction, use, and gratitude from them. It is recommended to use the Spyder software more often. Each drive may be seen as an occurrence.

As inferred, the automatic gearbox has the capability to downshift by two ratios while it is essentially not under stress.

I have had the automobile for a duration of one week, commencing from the previous Friday. Based on the current timeline, it can be inferred that the vehicle in question had been in the possession of the dealer for a certain period of time before the commencement of the second week. The observation has been made on several occasions. I engage in a hybrid work arrangement, spending 2-3 days per week in the office. Currently, my commuting distance is limited to around 20-30 miles per week, since I commute to and from the train station. The power of the vehicle remains unaffected, as it continues to operate smoothly, but with intermittent emissions of black smoke from the exhaust. I fail to comprehend the causal relationship between an intercooler pipe and the observed phenomenon. It is more probable that there would be a decrease in power. It is recommended to replace timing chains and tensioners due to their limited lifespan, often ranging from 100,000 to 150,000 miles. It is always advisable to exercise prudence and complete tasks in advance. The exclusive presence of the black smoke. The vehicle is in need of a B Service. The replacement of air and fuel filters is necessary. The use of new oil may perhaps provide assistance.

Greetings, everyone. I own a total mileage of 93,000 kilometers on my Mercedes-Benz E350 vehicle, which is equipped with the OM642 engine. The vehicle may need a B-service maintenance, which might potentially address the issue. However, during a recent instance of rapid acceleration, the emission of black smoke was seen from the rear of the vehicle. Is it possible that the reason of this issue is just a need for an oil and filters repair, or should I do a more thorough investigation and consider replacing the PCV unit and pipe? Are there any further items that I should verify or examine? The engine seems to be functioning well, exhibiting no irregularities in its performance. However, there is a little occurrence of engine shaking during the first stages of operation, which gradually diminishes as the engine reaches its optimal operating temperature. What is the suggested interval for replacing the cam belt? In my opinion, the cost for these items is $100,000. However, engaging in the task at an earlier stage may not be an unfavorable notion. I am planning to undergo a Terraclean procedure, since I have previously seen positive outcomes from this treatment on other diesel vehicles. I would really appreciate any information that you can provide.

The most effective approach is doing a pressure examination, as previously indicated.

No reconstruction took place; the dealership only conducted an examination.

When I had my 535d serviced at 102,000 miles, the mechanic only changed the fluid and filter pan after I had driven the car for 500 miles. It seems obvious to me that the filter in a vehicle has to be replaced whenever there is a need to change the fluid in the automobile. Tapatalk Message from my SM-G990B

It's not the belt, but rather the pump.

That seems like a very obvious oversight, so here's hoping....

I'm reviving my topic since I never did figure out what was causing the whining while the engine was on. I removed the undercarriage cover to discover that the noise was not coming from the belt but rather the air conditioning pump. We need to know: what might it be?....under intense stress?Is that....? Since it had just been regassed before the noise began, I'm going to think that the pressure is too high. Any thoughts? When it comes to automobiles, air conditioning is not my forte.

The noise is not coming via the vents, and there is no leak. I suspect that my problem is different. Car air conditioning systems naturally lose refrigerant....up to around 10% each year....which is why it gradually becomes warmer over time and why you will need to recharge it every few years to maintain it at 100% efficiency. The low pressure switch should turn off the air conditioner to prevent damage.

Which is it, the red or the white?! Anyway, I've lately observed that the subtle engine speed whine that has always been there in my wife's low-mileage A169 A Class (A170 Elegance) has gotten substantially louder. Having crawled under the vehicle (if you've never worked on one of these, the engine is essentially beneath the car; changing the spark plugs requires you to do so!! ), we had a look. The noise is most likely coming from the air conditioning compressor, which is located next to the driver's door on the driver's side of the vehicle. All systems are go, yet the AC is STILL frigid. I'm curious to know whether anybody else has experienced this and, if so, how they resolved it. For the record, my wife had the air conditioner recharged throughout the summer without incident. However, that was many months ago, and the whining has just now become more evident, so it might just be a coincidence. Please let me know if you have any ideas or further information.

To sum up:.TV is out.

I/we possess both The squared-off version is preferable in most cases, while the other comes in handy when working in confined spaces. TV

This response is somewhat extensive. First of all, tell me how the faulty upstream NOx sensor was identified. There have been at least four versions that I am aware of on this side, but the newest and greatest has an NGK sensor tip linked to a Bosch solid state box approximately halfway up the cord, and this setup generates its very own computer page. What is the component number listed on the box's reverse side? Let's say the new part was better than the old one, but it still required SCN coding after installation so that it could communicate with the engine control module (ECM). The upstream NOx sensor must provide NOx information in LIVE DATA., and the automobile must re-generate automatically after around 30 miles of driving once the technology has been implemented. If there is almost any measurable signal, either air is leaking into the "zorst system upstream or the Cat is blocked. The EBP and diff pressure sensor data should then be validated in HPa. So you go back to the store to find out what happened.. When doing a road test, if upstream is confirmed to be functioning, what is the function of the rear NOx sensor? When the system is functioning, the two numbers should be added together, and there should be at least a 50% decrease throughout the SCR cat. More than 75% decrease is possible with new sensors and an SCR cat. So far, we've been able to prove at least that it's functional by touching the scan tool and printing out the numbers as you drive with an aide. According to your description, the system "sees" after a number of drive cycles that the two sensors are not SCN coded and can't "talk" to one another. It's like attempting to go on a date with a stunning foreign beauty if you can't communicate with her in her own language. Exists confusion! Oh my, Mr. Smoothy, you blew a golden chance. Third Proposition and Question Adblue DEF fluid MUST be injected into the system as necessary for NOx reduction to take place. A bidirectional scan tool was also used to verify fluid injection into the SCR cat through the DEF pump.The pump has to be able to produce 5000 HPa, have the pressure backed down by the return system, and have an operating pressure of around 3600 HPa. These are crucial, as is making sure the DEF fluid has the right specific gravity and that the dosing injector hasn't been clogged with crystals. So, here's the useful Certainly, you can use an O2 plug. Use a long knuckle bar and opt for a cranked approach; don't tinker with it. When I'm sure the sensor is bad, I'll occasionally just snip the wires at the end of the harness and use a double-depth 1/2-inch socket to pry the thing out. If the boss is stuck, you may require a penetrant like Plus Gas and a plumber's MAP gas torch to loosen it. About what would a shop charge once installed? About $250, including programming and a road test to verify the system's performance; the client receives and keeps the test printouts on the completed R/O. I'm hoping that clarifies things for you. Best wishes👍

As a general rule, yes. After cleaning and clearing the threads, insert the sensor and turn it in until it is flush with the housing. You may recycle one in thirds. Alternatively consult the NGK O2 sensor experts who MB hired to do it (NOx sensors) "right" as the chassis is identical:-. Adjust the torque according the guidelines below: M18 sensors (threaded sensors of 18mm diameter) - Tighten the O2 sensor socket to 26-33 foot-pounds by hand before giving it a half turn to a full turn with a wrench. M12 sensors (threaded sensors, 18 mm in diameter) Wrench/O2 sensor socket, 13.2–17 ft. lbs., finger tight installation, then 3/4–1 turn. Remember the old nursing adage, "Steady as she goes," and tighten everything just as much as necessary to avoid crushing the sealing washer on the new sensor. Yes, they must be SCN coded in with a Star, but some small businesses pay to have this done by Autologic, which offers remote wifi program assistance. Tuercas viejas Andele pues Amistades

I've tried using plastic-coated curtain wire and, if that doesn't work, welding rod with a copper coating. The drain tube requires special attention since it is easily broken. Is the bulkhead drain not working since it's next to the bonnet hinge? To get this one out of the way, I had to use welding rod to climb up behind the arch liner.