Mistral

Although not the same car or reason, I experienced something similar with my Vito. While thorough cleaning my vehicle, I removed the double front passenger seat set. I disconnected the seat sensor wire to do this. Everything was going well until I turned on the engine without the seat connected, causing the SRS light to come on right away. The device remained active, and no error codes were shown on my code reader. I conducted thorough investigation, since I like to do all car responsibilities myself, and found no suitable choice. I eventually brought my vehicle to a Mercedes independent mechanic, who connected it to their Star computer and used it to deactivate the system. Regrettably, it seems that the requested task of resetting the SRS warning light was not completed, resulting in the "fasten seatbelt" warning no longer functioning on my Vito. Before I paid them to fix the lit SRS warning light, it warned appropriately.

Agreed. They usually work locally, which takes around 20 minutes. During school holidays, they go from the South Coast to Cheltenham, which is about 190 miles each way. Running on diesel would be more efficient, however I am considering using gas for town driving and work due to the factors you mentioned. They want to retain the automobile for an extended period, thus the need for it to be perfect.

That was my first thought, but are the NOx still as volatile? What economic differences may be seen in real-world driving?

I appreciated the response till the last sentence.

No, I am content with my W204. A buddy is considering many possibilities on the market and has shown interest in my vehicle as well. Their budget is around £14,000 or less, and they aim to be compatible with ULEZ regulations. My questions for the community are: Are there any solutions available for the NOx problems experienced by EU6 diesel and petrol vehicles, whether by practical means, warranty coverage, or additives? Has Mercedes-Benz taken any steps to make adjustments or acknowledge the issue? I would be concerned if they were to make changes and then face annual payments of £1000 just for that! Do not recommend deletion, it is not a viable choice. My diesel vehicle achieves roughly 57+ mpg in the summer and 45 mpg in the winter. What mileage are petrol vehicle owners getting? They have a large dog, therefore they are aiming for an estate car. Are there any other problems to consider beyond the usual W205 features and accessories? They need an automobile promptly since their current vehicle is unlikely to be suitable for everyday use much longer. I welcome assistance and insights, particularly about the sensors and adblue tanks concerns. Greetings everyone.

Black smoke often indicates over-fueling, maybe due to a combination of both factors. If the pressure sensor displayed a low value. It would likely attempt to increase the quantity. A broken Turbo intake seal might enable air to enter after the air flow sensors, perhaps causing confusion for the ECU. It's good that you were able to resolve it on your own. And I hope you will not encounter any other problems.

If you prioritise good tread life, it is advisable to use Michelin tyres. However, if tread life is not a major concern, you may choose the Continental Sport Contact 7.

Thank you so much for responding. I will definitely look into it. I find it satisfactory.

Thank you for responding. Your suggestion seems like a commendable idea.

Excellent suggestion, I will definitely follow through with it. Thank you one again.

Thank you for responding. I was searching on eBay, but when I attempted to verify whether the item would be compatible with my vehicle, it always indicated that the part would not be suitable for my car.

The automobile I own is a W218 model from the year 2013.

Thank you for responding. I have previously come across this information, but sadly, it is not compatible with my vehicle. I have seen several options for bearing kits, but I am struggling to locate a whole hub with a bearing. I believe Mercedes may provide such a product, but it is likely to be rather expensive.

I am inquiring if anybody knows where I can get a fully assembled front wheel hub with bearing. This is intended for my Mercedes CLS W218 131 250CDI. I see lost of bearing kits but can't seem to locate the hub complete with bearings. Thanks.

I just purchased a set of components for my first-generation V10 pre-facelift vehicle from AudiUSAParts.com. The price is $62 per unit and includes free delivery.

Using a cloth and White spirit should easily remove the stain without any difficulty.

A few years ago, I installed an aftermarket television in my MGZTCDTI. It provided excellent picture quality on all channels. However, the reception quality depended on the signal source and location. In some places, the reception was great, but it made a significant difference when I turned the car around or changed direction. Nevertheless, the television was merely a novelty, as I rarely watched it. I had it set up to watch while driving, but I never did so because it was not a safe or legal idea.

This particular modification is applicable to the N54 and N55 engines. However, it is uncertain if this modification is present in your specific engine, since the engine type is unknown. The water pump is connected to the thermostat and is susceptible to thermal damage. Please input the last seven digits of the chassis number into the website realoem.com to see whether your engine is associated with it.

It is advisable to concurrently address the thermostat and ensure that the U hose is not overlooked.

In my opinion, the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) component in question is manufactured by Pierburg.

The task at hand involves the use of an M104. I switched to Petronas oil, which resolved the issue I was experiencing with an unbranded oil of the proper specifications.

This will be my last piece on the matter at hand. The SPS was successfully implemented, but, it did not resolve the issue at hand. Currently, the automobile in question lacks power steering functionality, exhibits no abnormal auditory indications, and is equipped with a relatively recent power-assisted steering (PAS) pump and steering position sensor (SPS) valve/solenoid. Upon observing the reservoir, I am unable to see any discernible motion of the fluid, leading me to speculate that the pump has malfunctioned. I purchased a replacement pump from the online marketplace eBay subsequent to initiating the return process for the previous pump, which was accompanied by a warranty that ensured a hassle-free return. The individual inadvertently left the malfunctioning pump operational with the intention of using the packing from a subsequent pump to facilitate its return. There exists a predicament that requires attention. Undeterred by the circumstances, and with the intention of validating my suspicions, I proceeded to dismantle the interior components of the old pumps. During this process, I discovered several metallic fragments, which were not mere flakes but rather fragments of the pump's vanes. Additionally, I saw a cracked rubber seal inside the apparatus. Upon careful consideration, it became apparent to me that the reservoir on the new pump must be removed due to its incompatible dimensions. Upon removal, I discovered that there was no spigot present, just a hole of moderate size. Is it possible for the spigot to be screwed into this hole? The old pump was placed into the vice, resulting in fragments of the pump being left on the workbench. Through the use of an adjustable spanner, an attempt was made to disengage the spigot, resulting in its successful detachment. The object was inserted into the new pump using a twisting motion, facilitated by the use of a hammer. However, a complication arose when the mounting bracket of the new pump did not align with the mounting holes, despite the reservoir being positioned correctly. Furthermore, the pulley attached to the newly installed pump lacked apertures through which one might access the screws securing it. It seems that acquiring a pulley puller may be necessary in this situation. I will proceed to create a perforation in the pulley of sufficient size to facilitate the removal of the Allen head bolt. However, I had a little setback when I mistakenly believed that the hole was enough sized. Consequently, when I attempted to extract the bolt, it became lodged behind the pulley. In response to this predicament, I expressed my frustration via the use of profanity. Subsequently, I enlarged the aperture using a step drill and proceeded to interchange the bracket. Proceed to the vehicle immediately. Most aspects seemed to align, with the exception of the absence of fasteners on the rear of the pump, hence lacking a suitable location to insert the previously challenging-to-remove bolt. In addition to the aforementioned observations, I had a query regarding the purpose of the electrical connector on the pump. Upon initial removal of the pump, I discovered an unused plug attached to a wire. Subsequently, I ascertained that this plug does not connect to the aforementioned solenoid-like component, which was later identified as a proportioning valve resembling the SPS. Everything seems to be in order, with the exception of the matter of the establishment of a ground connection. Regrettably, there is a lack of conveniently located threaded holes on the rear side of the pump. There exists a thread that is being inserted into the side of the pump. If I were to shorten one of the available 6mm Allen-headed bolts, it is likely that it would be compatible and fit accordingly. It was a rather straightforward task until the Allen bolt encountered an obstruction with the high pressure output banjo, preventing it from completely tightening. Consequently, I proceeded to modify the bolt and banjo by using a bench grinder to taper and reduce the thickness of the components. Similarly, I used the same modification technique to the eyelet on the ground wire. I thoroughly cleaned all components and tested their functionality, exhibiting a sense of self-assurance in my proficiency with hydraulic systems, but experiencing a heightened state of anxiety. Nonetheless, the system operated well. This is the account of how I achieved the prestigious Nobel Prize in the field of mechanical bodgery.

The recommendation to utilise eye protection during usage was initially met with scepticism. However, this scepticism was swiftly dispelled when a violent explosion occurred. This incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of eye protection. It is worth noting that my personal adherence to health and safety practises may be lacking, as evidenced by two recent instances of self-inflicted injuries while operating an angle grinder without a protective guard. The absence of a guard is attributed to the incompatibility of the blades with the grinder. While it is conceivable to fabricate a suitable guard, there exists a concern that such an endeavour may inadvertently result in the ignition of the shed.

No, I had successfully removed one of them before and had an enjoyable experience with a wheel bearing nut on a Mini vehicle, although on a singular occasion. The process of acquiring the trackrod ball joint proved to be an enjoyable endeavour. Despite initial attempts using a 5lb club hammer, the desired outcome could not be achieved. Consequently, other methods such as using an air chisel and utilising MAPP gas were explored. It is evident that acquiring the necessary tools for this task is a worthwhile investment. The ball joint splitters that are operated by winding, often known as pickle forks, proved to be ineffective in my recent experience. Specifically, my previous tool failed while attempting to separate a top hub knuckle joint on an MX5, resulting in its fracture into two distinct halves.

Thank you for your participation. The torx fastener in question was secured using 'RED' loctite adhesive, and it was tightened with an exceptionally strong force.