Mistral

Hi, I've noticed Zolee Logistics getting mentioned more often recently. I think people get confused because of the company name, when you hear "Logistics" you automatically assume transport, freight, shipping containers and that sort of thing. Didn't occur to me they'd also be handling repossessed vehicle sales until I stumbled across one of their listings.

I checked and they seem to be in order.

Their enthusiasm has been contagious. There is a lot of available torque; yet, this 42 kWh battery is slightly more powerful than the larger battery variant.

After a 40-mile round drive to the Eden project, I thought it would be a good idea to share my (positive) feelings today. I was curious to see how the Hankook tires fared in dry and wet weather as I've never had a vehicle with those tires before. These tires were straight out of the factory; they had the low grip of new tires and made the steering seem too light. It's something I've seen before when tires are brand new, so I wasn't worried. The novelty has worn off, and the right amount of grip has finally arrived. From what I can tell, they are up to the task of handling the EV2's (42kWh) nimble acceleration with ease. The return trip on the A30 over Bodmin Moor today was accompanied by heavy rain and a lot of standing water due to the weather. Even with 400 miles on the tyres, they handled the road with ease, and I noticed no slipping or swaying of the heavy steering. I will add a couple of spots where I can tighten the grip when I return home, so I will do that eventually.

If you plan on retaining it, you should investigate mb service plans.

Yes, unless something changes, MB will not release any cloning software after 2016 ISH. 2. It's service-specific; some demand additional stuff. To keep up with the mb ess, you'll need things like brake fluid, air filters, fuel filters, and fuel. 3. You Name It.

Alright, I see now. Your assistance is much appreciated.

Apologies for the omission, however the back tires on mine are stock 255/30R19 because they are running on 19s.

Greetings to everybody I am going to go out and get new tires for my W204 C63. Currently, the rear tires are 255/30, and I am aware that my wheels have spacers; however, the width of these spacers is unknown to me as the prior vendor failed to tell me of this fact. Even if it turns out to be simply the tire, I was thinking about purchasing new wheels because I believed they were damaged. The wheels still give me the willies since potholes are so bad where I live in London. What would happen if I put 255/35 tires on (those with a larger sidewall)? Are the arches going to be rubbed by the tyre? Feel free to share your thoughts and experiences with me; I'd really appreciate it if someone could enlighten me. Much obliged.

Is the 12V AGM battery something you changed out on your own?

I agree with you. After much Googling, I've come to the conclusion that it is recommended to change the Auxiliary Capacitor (voltage converter) together with the 12V battery anytime it is replaced. I had the car since it was 8 months old, therefore I assume both parts are original. They are now approximately 7 years old.

Even though I use my C63S occasionally, it often sits unused in the garage for weeks at a time. It's probably because the car is over seven years old and still uses the original battery, but I'm well-acquainted with the "Starter Battery" alerts that come up from inactivity. I fix it by slowly charging it, and then it works for a time. It wasn't the Starter Battery, but rather the "12V Battery" that prompted a fresh warning yesterday. It's likely that I haven't received this notification previously. At the moment, it's charging. It's due for a big repair next month, but I'm afraid they'll charge me a fortune to replace the battery, even though I've done it previously on other cars—my Jaguar XKR being the most recent—so I'm considering doing it myself. Given that it mentions a Starter Battery and a 12V battery, I'm unsure about the total number of batteries in this vehicle. According to my research, there is a single 12V battery located under the hood (or bonnet, in American English) on the passenger side; I attach the positive connector of the charger to this battery. It appears like there's an auxiliary device in the footwell that's not easy to access, but it's definitely an electrical gadget and not a battery. So, I'm hoping you can shed some light on the following questions: 1. What's the deal with the two separate warning messages for the 12V battery and the starter battery? The "Starter Battery" alerts are resolved by charging the "main" battery, so why is there a difference? 2. When it comes to a 2019 C63S, which battery do you think would be the best replacement? Thirdly, is it really essential to reset codes after changing the battery? A quick Google search reveals that many individuals have successfully swapped the batteries without needing to reset the passcode. They could refuse to reset the codes during next month's servicing because they didn't supply or install the replacement batteries, but I was wondering whether it was possible. Much obliged.

Alternatively, you may enter it privately in the next Nurburgring 24h, where another EVO II has already raced.

https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/mc26/lots/r0045-1990-mercedesbenz-190-e-2516-evolution-ii/#/smallgallery_1435378

One for twenty-four thousand dollars?

Not sure because I'm not into mapping (I bought one without mapping), but I believe they also make a map for the box. I'm quite sure I've seen it mentioned in some of the posts here. From what I've observed in the posts here, it seems like the generic maps are causing problems, thus it's best to acquire a custom one.

A plaque will be located beneath the hood or on your weight plate, displaying the maximum figure in the corner, typically less than 1.5; this is the maximum for earlier vehicles lacking the plate. My 2009 ALFA featured the number on the plate; therefore, your 2014 model will probably certainly have it as well.

I ponder whether debris from the damaged gauze filter is obstructing the central valve, preventing the actuator from depressing it, hence causing the actuator housing to be displaced outward. I cannot get the reason for its oscillation when idle.

Here is a link demonstrating the motion of the vanos actuator.

I am receiving error codes 130F11, indicating an exhaust camshaft plausibility fault, and 120408, which pertains to boost pressure control, specifically a blocked cut-off pressure rise. Research indicates that the boost error arises from the camshaft error rather than the actual defect. While the engine is idling, I observe the plastic vanos actuator housing oscillating in and out, away from the cam cover. The spring clips are insufficiently robust to secure the housing firmly against the cam cover, resulting in the actuator displacing it instead of actuating the central vanos valve. It has been recommended that I substitute the huge O-ring (seal) encasing the actuator within the cam cover, as well as the spring clips securing the actuator, due to their tendency to weaken and become more malleable with time. Has anyone encountered this previously and can confirm if the clips, among other components, serve as the solution?

🫠

Thank you for your response. I have removed the antenna (bag) situated near the ignition switch, as well as the chip and the DAS module located behind the dashboard of the W140. Initially, I saw a "FAULT DAS" message; but, upon locating the precise DAS diagram, the issue vanished, enabling me to access and interpret engine trouble codes such as P0431.

Greetings to all, I am undertaking an engine replacement project on my 1988 W124. I have added a 3.2L M104 petrol engine from a 1997 S-Class, which was originally equipped with an automatic gearbox. I installed the engine together with its ECU, the original wire harness (engine harness connected to connectors E and F of the ME2.0 ECU), and incorporated the DAS, baggage compartment, and key utilising this wiring diagram: Explanation of Pin Functions A2 +12V subsequent to ignition (KL15) Power supply for the ECU through the ignition relay B4 +12V battery (KL30) Permanent electrical supply (fuse) Grounding of A3, A7, and A8 oecus C40 BEGIN Signal initiation input D14 Park/Neutral Validation of automatic gearbox (must be energised to permit ignition) C29 Fuel Pump Relay ECU output regulates the fuel pump with a relay. F6 Coils Cylinder 3/4 Ignition Control for Cylinders 3 and 4 F13 Coils Cyl 2/5 Ignition control for cylinders two and five F20 Coils Cylinder 1/6 Ignition regulation for cylinders 1 and 6 E1, E2, E13, E14, E12n5je, and E12e6urs ECU provide grounding for the injectors, which share a common +12V supply. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) for E37/E38 Crankshaft Camshaft Position Sensor (CAM) for E39/E40 Camshaft Position Signal E47 Mass Air Flow Meter E45 IAT - Intake Air Temperature E29 CLT Coolant Temperature Formula 1/Formula 2 Electronic Throttle Body (ETB) Electronic Throttle Regulation Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) for E31/E32/E33/E34 Throttle Position Sensors D7/D8 O2 Bank A Oxygen Sensor Signal and Ground C31/C32 O2 Bank B Oxygen Sensor Signal and Ground A5/B1 O2 Heater Supply for Lambda Sensors I successfully created the OBD port, enabling me to read error codes. I substituted the automated flywheel with a manual variant (60-2). However, I have been unable to initiate the engine thus far. I am encountering trouble code P0341. Upon further investigation, I discovered multiple discussions referencing a grounding issue. I have re-established all the ground connections; yet, the issue continues to remain. I have chosen to compose this message to solicit assistance. Does anyone possess any thoughts or recommendations for addressing this issue? Thank you in advance.

😍