Mistral

Hello everyone, I am seeking assistance as I am perplexed and uncertain about the next steps with my vehicle. Replaced turbos, charge cooler with new OEM components, charge pipes and J-pipe; the issue was equally evident with the previous hardware. The vehicle is experiencing underboost in the low RPM range, and smoke tests have revealed no leaks. The vehicle exhibits no fault codes, which exacerbates the frustration. Any alternative perspectives or suggestions would be appreciated. The attached log is a WOT pull in third gear in sport+ mode, with traction control disabled. The vehicle has a 50,000-mile competition history, has never been mapped, and has only had a software upgrade in 2019. The oil pressure is satisfactory; nevertheless, it was not documented in this log.

Upon removal, it had the orange seals, which have subsequently been replaced with the purple ones. The most intriguing discovery was that the EGR flap, which links to the throttle body, was completely obstructed. The aperture intended to measure around 2 inches by 1 inch was entirely obscured by a 10mm thick layer of carbon accumulation. I was astonished that an EGR problem flag did not appear. Everything has been meticulously cleaned, and all seals have been replaced.

Thank you, the vehicle was inexpensive to acquire at the time due to its Euro 5 engine. I have spent more on achieving accuracy than the cost of the car. The oil cooler seals were deteriorated, resulting in significant leakage.

And that is without effort, since I completed all the job!

The genuine expense of owning a Mercedes is substantial, although it is well justified.

All components, including the intake manifolds, throttle body, EGR flap, and EGR valve, were thoroughly cleaned, with all seals changed and a comprehensive service conducted simultaneously. I replaced all front-end suspension arms, shocks, and springs, both front and rear. I am meticulous about the performance of my Mercedes. Although it operates flawlessly, I have yet to repair the rear subframe bushes and arms, indicating more maintenance is required. I am now relishing the ability to operate the automobile proficiently, and it is an incredible powerhouse! I intended to do a gearbox service as well; but, after receiving an estimate from PCS, it is not justifiable due to their very reasonable pricing. Therefore, I will be scheduling an appointment soon. I developed a spreadsheet to monitor my expenses and completed tasks, as well as those remaining; all indicators are green, indicating satisfactory progress.

Greetings, I acquired a 2011 E350 CDI coupe in February of this year. It is equipped with the 265bhp OM642 engine. The vehicle had defects at the time of purchase, which I shall detail. Since I do my own work, this was not a concern, since I intended to perform a comprehensive suspension overhaul and undertake any necessary preemptive maintenance and repairs, consistent with my approach to previous Mercedes vehicles I have had. The EML light illuminated, and the vehicle entered limp mode after five minutes of operation. The engine temperature gauge was not reaching the appropriate temperature. Audible knocking sound emanating from the front end Vibration in the vehicle while navigating gentle curves at highway speed Vibration when braking Ambiguous, imprecise, and unstable sensation while navigating gentle curves at highway velocity. General unease when operating a vehicle Petroleum discharge Substantial oil usage Upon bringing it home and connecting it, the DPF seemed to be the source of the problem, namely, it was obstructed. I changed the thermostat, believing it would be inhibiting the car's regeneration process due to inadequate temperature; however, this did not cure the DPF problem, although the temperature gauge now functions properly. I then examined the DPF sensor data, which seemed to be functioning properly. I replaced the sensor with an authentic one, since the previous component was aftermarket; however, this was not the issue, as the pressure and soot levels remained elevated, preventing regeneration. During the sensor replacement, I applied a cleaner to the DPF and idled the engine for 15 minutes. A subsequent inspection revealed a significant reduction in pressure. However, two minutes into a test drive, I observed an increase in RPM at idle, accompanied by substantial smoke and the odour of burning rubber. Result! The automobile was autonomously regenerating, and concurrently, the engine management light extinguished. The automobile now operated efficiently in terms of the engine, so I began gathering all the components for the further work I had planned. Upon commencing the oil cooler seal repair, it became evident that the turbocharger was compromised upon removal, which, if overlooked, could have resulted in catastrophic engine failure. The vehicle operated normally without discernible smoke; however, it did emit smoke during regeneration intermittently, which I attributed to oil leaking from the oil cooler. In reality, the smoke originated from oil leaking from the rear of the turbocharger onto the diesel particulate filter, and the intake wa I have had many OM642 vehicles, and my current one, with 230,000 miles, continues to perform reliably at 800 miles per week, which has left me perplexed by the reports of frequent failures in the later model engines. Could the DPF be responsible for their demise, given what occurred with mine? The failure of my turbo was attributable to a clogged DPF, which permitted an accumulation of excessive heat and pressure at the rear of the turbo, resulting in seal rupture. All pipes connected to the rear of the turbo exhibited indications of elevated heat via discolouration. All tasks have been completed, and the vehicle operates well; all intakes have been cleaned.

https://www.omnicalculator.com/everyday-life/rpm

Edit: This may be useful, RPM Calculator - RPM to MPH

https://astradecarsales.co.uk/kia_picanto_1.0_2_-id8627-.htm

Refer to the bottom of the page for gear ratios.

It suggests a potential internal problem with the ECU, however this is only a conjecture based on your description.

Connecting the wire from the old loom to the new plug lead and inserting it into a Wago will not provide an accurate signal to the SAM. He demonstrated on his multimeter that no voltage was present in the wago. Removing it and appropriately soldering and heat-shrinking is the optimal approach. I planned to do that but erroneously believed that momentarily combining them in a wago would suffice. All is good, and I will be informed for future reference.

Engaged an automotive electrician. He identified the issue immediately. I temporarily used Wago connectors to link the wires from the harness to the new plug. Incorrect. It took the individual 20 minutes to disassemble my connectors and accurately solder and heat-shrink the connections. Completely encased in harness tape and £85 poorer. Returned to the MOT station, where a pass was granted after a brief inspection. Now available for immediate sale.

MOT failure. It seems that the flashing indication at the back of the vehicle is an emergency signal. I have not encountered it before, but I am always eager to acquire knowledge. Seeking to contact an auto electrician suggested by the proprietor of the MOT station. There has been no success so far. He had been on vacation and returned on August 11th.

I will ascertain the information tomorrow.

My S204 (59 plate) was scheduled for a MOT last week, and the day before to the appointment, the near-side rear indicator malfunctioned, accompanied by a notification on the dashboard. Upon inspecting the rear of the light, I saw that the brown earth wire in the connecting connector had completely burned out, accompanied by a charred pin, despite another earth wire being connected to the bodywork and lighting unit. I opted to get an additional n/s/r light unit along with a new plug and harness cables from MB Newcastle and eBay. Upon connecting the new connector to the old wire, the indicator functions; however, the flasher in the cluster operates at double the speed. Inquiry? Is there a relay or rear SAM problem preventing the cluster from flashing in synchrony with the external indicator? Will it still pass the MOT scheduled for tomorrow? The indicator functions correctly; however, the internal flasher operates at an accelerated rate. Desire to resolve this issue prior to listing it for sale.

Best of luck, my friend; please inform us of the outcome. 👍👍

The primary battery requires recharging or replacement. Frequent issues, all associated with diminished battery voltage. Abandoning it for two weeks has significant meaning. To be honest.

Indeed, you may place advertisements here, but only in the part to which I linked in my first post.

I am here to assist all members, from the nasty and irritating to the nice and bothersome. It is a thankless endeavor, but I am compensated with the ability to use the ban button.

Indeed, the Z3 is constructed on a truncated E36 chassis, along with shared engines and several other components. If you like to sell components from this, please use the parts for sale area.

In the past, I would disable the electricity to the fuel pump, anticipating that I would hear them attempting to start the automobile without success.

Apply a UV-protective lacquer. Some lens polishing kits include it.