bvlenci

Thank you for all the responses. Here are a few responses: 1. The fronts were colder than the rears. 2. I completed a run without using the hand brake, and I used minimum braking. The brake temperatures were acceptable for all wheels. 3. Engaged the handbrake while stationary to inspect temps. Stopped once again a few kilometres down the road - rear brakes exhibited higher temperature than the front brakes. I am concerned that the wire connecting the handbrake lever to the mechanism in the centre of the chassis may not be releasing correctly, since both brakes are exhibiting signs of overheating. It is time to once again get beneath the vehicle and inspect the motion of the different components of the system

A 2020 316 4x4 MWB camper van conversion with around 20,000 km. Occasional periods of inactivity have caused the rear handbrake linings to get trapped and separate from the brake shoes. Additionally, the rear pads have been caught in their carriers. The handbrake shoes have been replaced with new ones, and the pad/carriers have been thoroughly cleaned and lubricated with copper slip by my reliable local garage. Currently, everything is free and in excellent condition. Now, leave the vehicle parked at home without using the handbrake. When the rear wheels are lifted off the ground, they rotate without any resistance. However, despite this, both rear brakes get much hotter than the front brakes after driving. I do not brake heavily. All hand brake cables seem to be unrestricted, but I see that the situation deteriorates after using the handbrake. Do you have any insightful explanations for why this may be occurring? Additionally, are there any additional examinations I can perform? Thank you.

A voltage output of 13.8V from the alternator indicates that the battery has achieved a charge level of 80% or above.

When the vehicle is in motion, the voltage you see is not from the battery, but rather from the power produced by the alternator. Moreover, a voltage of 14+ Volts produced by the alternator indicates that the battery's current charge level is less than 80%. When the battery reaches 80% capacity, the Battery Management System (BMS) will lower the charging voltage to 13+ Volts. This is done to slow down the charging process and increase the lifespan of the battery.

An amber light often indicates that the automobile may still be driven, but it is necessary to seek help. A red warning light indicates that the automobile is not safe to be used. The starting battery is most prone to causing difficulties while attempting to initiate the engine. While operating the vehicle, the alternator will provide the necessary electrical power, rendering a weak starting battery inconsequential once the engine is in operation.

Were the 18-inch wheels for the MB brand new or previously owned? If the second option is chosen, one can experience a little degree of buckling. Attempt to interchange the wheels from the front to the rear (provided they are not arranged in a staggered pattern) in order to see the effect on the shaking of the steering wheel.

Some kind forum user spent a long time creating this topic detailing the W212's braking options

Indeed, I suggested winter tires since they are inherently more pliable and provide a smoother ride. However, transitioning to 17-inch tires during winter will provide little changes, so one should not anticipate significant differences. Yes, I own 17-inch wheels just for my winter season. The tire dimensions are 245 millimetres in width, 45% of the width in height, and designed to fit a 17-inch wheel. These have a typical fit with my ventilated drilled discs.

It is important to ensure that the smaller wheels have sufficient clearance from the brake callipers. Sports brakes are of greater dimensions compared to conventional brakes.

Begin with a pricing comparison website, Admiral. I discovered that Compare the Market offered a more cost-effective option compared to directly approaching insurance providers.

In my opinion, the voltage provided is really sufficient.👍🏻👍🏻

I understand that a command has to be programmed in order to show the reverse camera. Although it is briefly visible, it is possible that it may be the case.

Does the camera just have two wires? Does the reverse wire at the cam remain energised when a test light is connected to it? What kind of monitor are you using - a dedicated display or the command screen?

Ensure that you insert it into the socket with the right orientation.

There is a 5a wire next to another wire, and a 15a wire located in close proximity to the blade.

I expect a functional roof at a price of 65 units of currency. (and the turbines!)

Is the cold start injector functioning properly? Is the EHA misaligned?

Wishing you success with your automobile.

I made extensive modifications to my (independent) version, and if I recall correctly, it cost me less than 2,000 dollars. However, it required around six trips. The most exasperating aspect was that the majority of the malfunctions do not generate error codes, necessitating a return to fundamental troubleshooting methods to identify the problem. Is your situation still deteriorating? What items or components have you had substituted or exchanged for anything else?

There is a kit available for purchase, however I am unable to recall the specific location where I encountered it. Although I can recall, it was not inexpensive. Undoubtedly, the cost is not sufficiently low to justify replacing the air suspension. Additionally, it is important to consider the financial and desirability implications of removing the air before selling. I had difficulties with the back air system, prompting me to explore the possibility of switching it to conventional springs. However, ultimately, the air conditioning was repaired. The system is not too complex, but it typically has a lifespan of around 10 years. Identifying faults in the system may be challenging. I ultimately replaced all components of mine. Paradoxically, the airbags themselves were functioning well, while the issue was with the leaking lines and compressor.

If such is the situation, it is certainly advisable to replace the distributor cap and rotor arm.

If the issue resolves within a time frame of 1-3 minutes, it is very probable that the cause lies in the cap and rotor arms. However, if it takes 15-20 minutes for the issue to clear up, it is more likely to be attributed to a vacuum leak or a sticky Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Regardless, if they are outdated and not impressive, then it is certainly worth making a change.

As these components age, it is normal for air leaks to occur at the injectors, inlet manifold rubbers, and other related parts. E5E10 is not effective in improving the fuel system on Ke jet. Does the engine exhibit a significantly elevated idle speed when it is cold?

Would you be willing to disclose the name of the firm for those who are interested in engaging in a comparable exchange? Furthermore, I have a positive inclination towards it. Appears far more aesthetically pleasing.

I like the fact that my c63 has a comparable feature.