Geek2232

I have disassembled the connector within the door and removed the door card. I have examined the wiring from the switch pack plug to the frm, and all the wires appear to be in satisfactory condition. No rusting whatsoever. While it is possible that there may be some damaged wires at some point, I am truly struggling to locate them!

I am contemplating this; but, I prefer not to expend the funds without unequivocally verifying that this is the problem. I purchased an inexpensive imitation on Amazon for approximately £10, and it did not resolve the problem. I may require an additional OEM unit. However, my lord, these demons, gremlins, and magical wizards are indeed resisting vigorously.

I have been contending with challenges lately, and these challenges have manifested as wires. The master window switchpack of my E93 has become inoperative, and I am unable to determine the cause. Here is a comprehensive account of my completed tasks to date. Context The former owner brought it to a repair shop. They identified a "failed switchpack" but did not replace it. I have subsequently replaced and recoded the FRM independently. Only modified the VIN and UIF information. The interior lights are functioning correctly; however, the window issue remains unresolved. What Effectively Functions All four windows function flawlessly from: The button for the convertible roof My scanner and diagnostics The FRM can manoeuvre all the windows effortlessly. Malfunction Codes 9CBA – LIN operator unit disrupted 9CC4 – Disruption in passenger mirror LIN 9CC3 – Disruption in driver mirror LIN These remain unchanged regardless of whether the switchpack is connected or disconnected. Electrical Inspections The power and ground at the switchpack are accurate. 12V on Pin 6 (Red/Green). Ground connection on Pin 5 (Brown). LIN bus is located on Pin 4 (White/Brown). The presence of 12V and ground at their respective locations indicates that the problem does not lie between the FRM and the switchpack for those circuits. LIN also attains the switchpack plug at approximately 9-10 volts. Unusual Ground Behaviour The door is open; the ground measures approximately 40Ω to the metal in the fuse box. Door closed: resistance decreases to approximately 3Ω. With a jumper: 1.5 ohms. Enhancing the grounding did not restore functionality to the switchpack. Additional Remarks All fuses are functioning properly. No apparent damage in the door loom. The mirrors are also inoperative due to the switchpack, which is logical as they utilise the same LIN line. My Current Location The FRM can operate all functions, however the switchpack lacks bidirectional communication. LIN errors persist even when the switchpack is disconnected. All indications suggest either: An inferior switchpack, Or something upstream on the LIN line is impeding communication. I welcome any insights from those who have encountered this specific demon previously. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Greetings 🙂

Upon deactivating the vehicle, certain systems stay operational for a duration. This is typical; but, at times, systems may fail to enter sleep mode, resulting in a parasitic current drain. Did your esteemed auto electrician assess the current draw with the vehicle powered off?

A friend installed a Honda Blackbird engine in a Smart Fortwo, and due to the Honda engine's insufficient vacuum for the brakes, he incorporated an electric vacuum pump from a Jaguar. That was effective, and while one might be inclined to believe that the smart can be quickly halted, it is not the case without a servo.

You have accurately identified the issue. I remotely secured the doors upon receiving a notification indicating they were unlocked. I will monitor this "feature" in the future.

AMG 2024 GLC43 The automatic folding of the mirrors upon closing the doors has inexplicably ceased to function on two occasions. The auto mirror folding option has been disabled in the CAR MENU settings. Is this the outcome of an automated online MBUX update?

I would sincerely recommend acquiring a Mk9 Honda Civic 1.8i manual. I own an N43 for five years, fortunate that it only experienced injector problems, which I was able to rectify independently. Prior to initiating the engine, I would offer a prayer that no more injector has commenced leaking. Some experienced misfortune with plastic chain guides fracturing and obstructing oil flow.

This hose from the opposite side of the engine bay links to the pipe I am indicating, which appears to have a fitting for it to attach behind; however, there is already a hose from this pipe leading to one of the fittings.

This is the initial hose located on the left side of the engine compartment; its connection point is uncertain.

EGR error codes - P0401 and P042F

Thank you, I will examine it after work. Furthermore, it appears that the O2 sensor was either disconnected or removed from the vehicle by an unknown individual. Thank you once more for your comment.

Greetings, I recently purchased a BMW 316d with an N47D20C engine, which was displaying error signals for the O2 sensor. I was unable to locate it, then I realised it was absent. I saw an additional connector that is unoccupied, and I can not see a corresponding wire for connection. I attempted to research this on Google but could not identify its purpose; I am enquiring if anyone might provide guidance. The EGR warning light has illuminated, and I discovered several disconnected vacuum hoses in the engine. I would appreciate assistance with this matter as well, if possible. Postscript: I will include photographs tomorrow.

That is valuable information; thank you.

I spoke with the dealer today, and he informed me that it is an additional cost option; there is no spare wheel, so I presume there is no need for paying more for one.

Thank you for your response; I was only enquiring since it was referenced in the guidebook.

The guidebook states that the vehicle is fitted with a car jack and wheel nut spanner; are these tools included?

If it is not malfunctioning, do not attempt to repair it. If, after two years, you have seen no problems with the DPF being obstructed, it indicates that it is reaching sufficient temperatures and doing enough passive regeneration to remain unobstructed. An economical BMW-specific code reader will provide back pressure readings and indicate the last active regeneration, making it a valuable addition to any BMW glove compartment. The EGR may ultimately obstruct the intake manifold, but it will just need cleaning in another 50,000 miles. A clogged DPF and a blocked intake are only cleaning tasks that will not damage the engine. Disregard the computer's recommendations for service and do an intermediate oil change annually or every 10,000 miles at most. The expenditure on oil and a filter is a prudent investment.

Greetings, I own a 2022 registration Sportage Launch Edition. I have equipped my current Orskey dashcam with both front and back cameras. I followed the forum's recommendation and installed a Dongar adapter on the rearview mirror; but, the USB output lacks sufficient energy to power the back camera. Any suggestions? I like to avoid addressing the fuse box issue.

Thank you for the wisdom so far. I will reassess as time permits. I was upset, since this process should not need such an approach - or so it seemed to me. This example may not be the most effective, but it resembles receiving a replacement cambelt by mail after a warranty failure, accompanied by instructions to search online for guidance on installation. The 'time is running out' notice, coupled with ambiguous instructions and the need to purchase new IT storage equipment, is unhelpful given that the vehicle remains under warranty.

That is really generous; nevertheless, we are not, sadly.

I do not like to seem irate, but I have had my Sportage for over one year. It has undergone servicing at the authorized dealership. A week or two ago, I received a notification indicating that a map update was required and that the deadline for completion was approaching. No information on the deadline for completion. I contacted the main dealer, who informed me that I needed to download KIA Connect, which was previously unknown to me. I executed it on my mobile device. I had to repeatedly return to my automobile to input codes and do related tasks. I was unaware that this was mandatory. Clearly, this did not affect the notification on the map update. I contacted them again via phone. I was instructed to visit the official Kia website and adhere to the provided guidelines. I need to determine the software version of my automobile. I adhered to the exact directions provided on the Kia website. The information on my automobile does not align with what the internet said would be present. Thus, there is a lack of any information on my vehicle. I inferred the necessary version based on my possession of the 2021 model, therefore selecting the variant labeled with 21. The numerals may pertain to years. I downloaded that version on my PC. I am then obligated to transfer it onto a USB or comparable device. Consequently, I discover the required USB size, which I do not own. I am completely uninformed and unable to locate any information on the Kia website on the procedure for transferring maps to my vehicle. At the risk of seeming irate, this significantly deviates from my expectations of a respected automobile manufacturer. I consider myself reasonably competent and proficient in information technology. Perhaps not; yet, this seems to be quite intricate. Perhaps I, along with several other Sportage owners, are aware of the software version operating in our vehicles and the procedure for uploading fresh maps. It is sufficient to state that I will not commence using these ambiguous and convoluted 'instructions' that may perhaps compromise my automobile navigation system. I would really appreciate assistance in navigating what seems to be an exceedingly complex configuration. I am perplexed as to why the task was not completed during the auto servicing.