Alex1978

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-S5A11-battery-technology-vehicles/dp/B00PUDPLOC

I trust that all are in good health. I seek counsel with the following matters, please. My 2013 W204 C220d Estate retains its original battery (see to the image below), which has exhibited difficulties throughout the recent cold weather. Following my study, I acquired a replacement: a Bosch S5A11. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-S5A11-battery-technology-vehicles/dp/B00PUDPLOC Nonetheless, I have encountered information suggesting that the new battery must be programmed to the vehicle, while other sources assert that this is unnecessary. Can anyone confirm the accurate procedure for battery replacement? Additionally, if coding is unnecessary, are there any precautions I should consider when replacing the battery? I intend to clean the battery compartment before installing the new battery, but I will refrain from doing so if a longer disconnection could lead to complications. Thank you in advance for any responses.

As previously stated by guyskin, it is a cold check that occurs when the vehicle is initially activated, during which it inspects for malfunctioning bulbs. LEDs consume less power, leading the system to erroneously conclude that the bulb has malfunctioned. I deactivated the cold check feature on one of my vehicles using my diagnostic scanner, and there is a setting in the iDrive for the F20 model. Indeed, that is how I organised things in that vehicle.

I do not either, to be honest. It is conceivable that it may be possible.

Is it feasible to submerge the tank?

If you have recently invested that much in it and they are paying you a negligible sum, I would retain the vehicle; I am certain you can get the additional funds required.

What is your location in the UK?

I just seen the classroom scene from "The Wanderers." 😉

I also own front and rear dash cams from NextBase. I use the Dongar adapter and have no difficulties in powering the cameras using it.

The B+ cable problem seems to correspond with all the symptoms. I will investigate further, thank you.

I am doing an investigation in search of a respite. Thank you for the information.

Thank you for your response. What does "should be 2, 1" signify? 3) Jump point under the hood I checked the voltage at the jump terminal, which was capped in red. No voltage present. The vehicle is now off, so I assume there will be no voltage present. I am not a BMW technician, but I am attempting to resolve this issue. I measured the voltage on the wire under the trim on the driver's side, and it registered at 12.5 volts. I want to connect 12 volts from an additional battery to the fuse box and need guidance on the appropriate point for power input into the fuse box. This method allows me to start the vehicle and access the passenger door, since it is somewhat difficult to reach the fusebox and glovebox from the driver's side. The door is not opening from the inside due to a power failure. One would expect them to foresee such an occurrence. 7) Based on the photos of the fuse box, could you help indicate the source of electricity for the fuse box? It is a grid; thus, providing a reference point would be beneficial.I need the input power for the fuse box to see if it registers 12.5 volts. Thank you once again for your reply.

https://ibb.co/p6FYdzWL

Image of a fuse box accompanied with a reference grid: https://ibb.co/BHGhP5s1

Greetings, everyone, Fundamental inquiry. An picture of the fuse box for my BMW 318 D ES Z3SF 4DR E90 SALOON M47 2.0 is attached. This vehicle is configured for right-hand drive. The fuse box is located on the left side. The battery is located in the trunk on the right side. The battery displays a voltage of 12.5 volts and is completely charged. A broad red wire is connected to or from the battery. Uncertain if the issue originates from the alternator or whether it is supplying electricity to the dashboard and fuse box from the battery. I believe it originates from the alternator due to its need to provide a substantial current. The dashboard is nonfunctional; there is no electricity emanating from the back battery. Nothing is effective. I originally suspected a fuse, but that would only disable one instrument; thus, it must be a main fuse or a power supply issue to the dashboard. I successfully elevated the trim on the driver's side and saw the substantial red cable. I measured the voltage, which registered at 12.5 volts, confirming the presence of electricity at this location. The electricity must thereafter go to the fusebox. It seems to extend from the driver's seat region to the fuse box. The thick red wire does not traverse the trunk to the passenger's left side. I verified that the thick red wire runs directly from the driver's side of the trunk to the driver's side interior, where I measured the voltage under the trim. The dashboard is devoid of electricity. I intended to measure the voltage entering the fuse box. I am uncertain where to verify. An picture of the fuse box and the glove compartment is attached. Could someone inform me where to locate the fuse box for voltage inspection? Could someone provide instructions on how to remove the glove compartment, since I am unable to locate the fuse box? This is my first effort at this endeavor. I own photos; but, I am unable to attach them or put links here. Perhaps I may provide the image URLs while replying to replies.

I solely utilise a USB A to Lightning cable.

In 2012, I had Terry from Wayne Gates MB Specialists in Harrow do an inspection of my SL55 upon purchase. The most worthwhile expenditure I have made; I encountered many questionable vehicles and acquired knowledge about the automobiles. The examination was necessitated by my complete lack of knowledge about the autos, which are distinctive and specialist in several aspects. In 2022, after a decade of owning an SL55, I felt enough secure to independently search for an R231 SL63, and I successfully acquired a quality vehicle. While selling the '55, the buyer brought a "expert" who was uninformed about the SL55, ultimately leading me to explain its functionalities to him. The degree of ignorance is remarkable. They identify nonexistent issues to rationalise their charges. The crux of the narrative is 1. Non-MB expert examination - detrimental, 2. MB specialist inspection - beneficial, particularly for those without automotive understanding, as I did in 2012. Ideally, enhance your understanding and examine the situation independently; nonetheless, this is hard to do. Additionally, remember the historical context and documentation; the evaluation encompasses more than just the physical assessment.

https://www.automobilevalet.co.uk/

This is their official webpage.

I cannot suggest Auto Mobile Valet strongly enough, in case you are still searching. I have used their services on my previous vehicle for many years and just had them apply a ceramic coating on my new CLA.

I hope for a favourable outcome for you. BMW would impose an admission fee for the showroom if they believed it would be feasible.

It is uncertain, but is a subscription required to maintain updates?

The outcome is contingent upon the dealer; I have seen postings from years past indicating that some individuals were denied due to alterations in the paint, rendering it non-original, while some received warranty coverage and others did not.Best of luck, and yes, I believed the guarantee period for paint had been modified.

The paint warranty once extended for 12 years, then reduced to 10 years, and may now be much shorter.