Alex1978

I am truly grateful for the guidance you have given me. My only option, aside from taking it to a garage, is to not have ISTA or know anyone who does. The diagnostics performed by German Auto Center did not reveal any error codes. It can go weeks without occurring, and when it does, it lasts for only approximately thirty seconds due to how intermittent it is. I'm concerned that I might wind up paying a garage an hourly fee to attempt to catch it, and there's no assurance that it will happen during their testing. Equally unsettling is the idea of starting to replace components based on pure speculation. Based on your expertise, what do you think would be the best course of action for me to take next? How can I keep track of the necessary data without paying for expensive road testing? Is there anything in particular you think a BMW expert should look at? In particular if you were unable to obtain fault codes, I would be very curious to hear about your experience in resolving this issue if you have encountered it before. Thank you once more! 😊

We've had the car for five years, and this has never happened before. Do you think it would be noticeable?

Yeah, that's right. Whether it's a coincidence or not, we've never had this happen on dry trips. However, it usually rains right when it does, so they're on. Whether it's weather-related or not, I can say with certainty that it hasn't happened when it's been dry. Are you not aware of the solution? 😁 Much obliged for your prompt reply!

Hello everyone! I was hoping someone could give me some advice based on their experience with a BMW. My BMW 420i Gran Coupe is a 2014–2017 model with 76,806 miles and a manual gearbox. I've been driving steadily at 60-70 mph on the highway when all of a sudden the power goes out for about half a second. Then it comes back on and drives normally, which is a really strange and intermittent problem. There has been no slow dwindling of strength. For that brief instant, it's as if the vehicle becomes unresponsive. At that second, the speed won't increase no matter how firmly I plant my foot on the floor; then, out of nowhere, the power returns. To try and find a pattern or rule anything out, I've experimented with various gears, driving modes (Comfort, Sport, and Eco Pro), and cruise control, but it doesn't make a difference. Up until this point, it has only happened to me on long car rides, and it seems to happen at random. The fact that it happens so randomly is the most annoying aspect. It occurred again on Saturday after the previous occurrence about a month ago. The ECU is not displaying any error codes, warning lights, or discernible pattern. German Auto Center has since performed a comprehensive diagnostic and health check on the vehicle that I had scheduled. There are no error codes to guide them, and they still haven't discovered anything wrong with the vehicle. Even with real-time data, it's very challenging to diagnose events that occur half a second apart, let alone weeks apart. Not knowing what's causing it makes it seem like a needle in a haystack, and I'd rather not start spending money on replacing parts. Is anyone else's BMW 420i or other petrol 4 Series dealing with something similar? Were you ever able to determine the root cause and the method of diagnosis? I would love to hear from anyone who, while driving on the highway, briefly lost power without any lights or codes coming on, and what the solution was. Even though it's brief, the fact that it occurs at high speeds on the highway makes it all the more worrisome because of the danger it could pose. I would be eternally grateful for any help or insight you could provide. I'm crossing my fingers that someone will be able to identify these symptoms and give me some advice. I am grateful.

I appreciate it and will give it a try.

😁

When you step on the ground, the vibrations disappear.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+M+Sport

Hello, the entire cabin of my 2009 325d m sport vibrates from 1500 to 2000 rpm, and it also vibrates while idling. Someone said the engine mounts were the problem, but I don't see any obvious wear and tear on them. Is there something loose that could be causing the problem? Lots of vibration on the plastics under the hood makes it sound like it's coming from the engine's top. Works without a hitch, dropping power, or error messages

the Cooper S four-cylinder turbocharged engine.

Greetings, My offspring is coming to visit. He operates a 2019 Countryman. He observed oil fumes emanating from the engine compartment in recent months. We inspected the engine compartment and I detached the cowling, observing oil accumulation in the channels directly beneath the rocker cover on the front (radiator) side of the engine. The oil loss is minimal. Do you have any hypotheses regarding the likely origin? I am aware that these engines contain numerous plastic components that may be susceptible to malfunction.

Deserving of a spin in one. Impressive performance compared to the 1.8 GR Sport caught me off guard. Understood about the wheels. A size 18 is required.

In general, I am quite pleased by the apparent improvement in quality. Costs £38 per month for three years with one maintenance visit and three services total. I will compare prices at renewal, even though insurance is a bit more.

Amazon.co.uk : Lexus

Amazon.co.uk : GR sport

I see. After driving a Dynamic and the GR Sport for nearly two years, I'm ready for a change. I got a Lexus LBX Vibrant Edition because I didn't like the new CH-R style. I'm really impressed with it so far. 👍

https://www.bmw.co.uk/en/topics/owners/service-workshop/warranties/bmw-phev-warranty-guidelines.html

It seems like there's a stopped relay somewhere. The good news is that the battery's warranty should cover the cost of replacement if this is a major unit in the battery pack. I'll try to find the specific battery warranty details online and provide them to you. When someone else had the same issue a few years ago, I was able to assist them. You can find it here.

A cable or WiFi connection is necessary for AA to function. Bluetooth on its own is insufficient.

Before you start the engine, check the car's seating position. Does it lie flat on every side? When you press the airmatic button to raise or lower the automobile, you should see the rear end move in response. On each side of the valve covers, look for signs of oil leaking. Resolving this issue often takes a couple of hours of manual labor on an M113 engine.

If a CLS2 hasn't had maintenance in 40,000 miles, I'd give it a low price, same as before. However, Jay at Mercland is selling it, and his automobiles are of the highest quality. No one has ever complained about his autos. Having 120k on these engines is irrelevant if they have been maintained on time, and CLS3 sounds realistic. No more than two services per year, or 11,000 miles, should be recorded in the service book. In my opinion, £8,000 is a fair price for a 2008 CLS500. It would be nice if the driver's seat was cleaned, and not everyone likes wood paneling. The bright inside is an improvement above the standard black. Make sure the electrical components are functioning properly, and inspect the pad thickness and disc brakes for signs of lipping if you decide to examine it. Feel free to negotiate any amount of wear. Those round quad pipes are an aftermarket exhaust system accessory as well. I also wouldn't disregard CLS1. I am not really concerned about heated seats. Never did my E55 heated seats function. I wasn't missing them. On this one, the price and mileage are more reasonable.

😍

It sounded like the hose was about to overheat at the same time as the noise, but it seems like it just went up and over the strut and then vanished.

A s211 e320, I believe.