Alex1978

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I believe I have solved the problem. Even though I haven't been able to completely thread the fish tape through the hole on the driver's side, the water does seem to be escaping. Here is what I did so that you may do it too: I removed the three plastic nuts with built-in washers and two plastic snap bolts at the bottom of the plastic wheel arch liner. I raised the car's suspension and drove it into ramps. With the wheels rotated all the way, I was able to get access to the insides of the wings by removing two metal self-tapping screws and one plastic nut (same to the nuts on the wheel arches). Once I did that, I could see where the water was leaving the operational side. It's a 15mm outside diameter rubber tube that exits within a forward-facing compartment 6 inches from the top of the leading edge of the wing. There didn't seem to be any way to get to the engine bay. The tube is almost

I've tried using a drain cleaner with a wire spring and a drill, but to no avail. It's starting to seem like a drain rod was misplaced in a prior garage. I can't figure out where the upper exit is, so I can't ride it backwards at the moment. I've removed the two plastic pins, pulled down the trim around the front wheel well, and jammed a bunch of fish tape down the functional side, but I still can't find it. I intend to return at night armed with a flashlight. I took the airbag and A-pillar trim off, but the piping must be hidden within the pillar itself. I haven't removed the roof flashing just yet. Here are three fallbacks: 1) Park with the driver's side up a modest incline so that water may flow freely away from the operating hole. 2) Use a method (such as tape) to seal the sunroof that doesn't detract from the aesthetics of the room and can be removed without harming the paint or glass roof edge trim. The third option is to drill a new drain hole and run a pipe through the interior of the A pillar; this pipe may then connect to the windshield drain via a reed valve or go back into the wing hollow.

Water is pooling in the footwell, screen pillar, and other interior areas because the front drain on the driver's side sunroof is clogged. I've twisted, pulled, and pushed rather hard with some nylon fishtape—including with a pointed brass end—and a steel coiled drain cleaner, but thus far, no luck. According to how far the tape extends (it goes twice as far on the passenger side, which is not obstructed), the obstruction is towards the bottom of the screen pillar and refuses to move. Additionally, I have checked the drains in the engine compartment and in the wheel wells and have found nothing clogging them. I've also tried using a vacuum to blow and sucking. I have not yet used my air compressor for fear of rupturing one of the internal hoses. No other options come to mind at the moment. I could use drain cleaner, but I'm concerned about the potential effects on metal, plastic, aluminum, and paint.

I will vote for 200tdi.

It's a good idea to opt for a smaller 16-inch rim if off-roading is in your future. Having more affordable options for R16 tyres is a bonus. I looked on craigslist and found a set of D2 16" wheels from a disco that was being dismantled. I went with the OME system, which included 751s up front and 781s in the back, and gained 2.5 inches all around. I also had the brake lines lengthened with steel braiding. It's possible that the old rubber ones were becoming rather fatigued after 8 years, so I figured I may as well buy additional length for the same money. The 265/75R16 Dick Cepek Mud terrains were what I sported. I was able to get a fair price from Discount Tyre Direct ($206) and then had the nearby Town Fair Tyre match it, saving me an additional 5%. Additionally, mounting, etc. The free rotations and roadside assistance are worth it, however whether or not a punctured sidewall caused by a rock is covered yet to be seen. But if it occurs, I will do my best. These tyres are great off-road and perform well on paved roads as well. If you have any questions concerning my setup, feel free to send me a private message. You may see the finished product in few photos in my album.

It's amusing to hear that. One advantage I see with these trucks is that several failures may occur without major consequences.

I think the Genuine Land Rover t-stat is fantastic. You'll be alright if you adhere to that. D2 is configured differently than D1.

I find five years to be very unrealistic. Where is the scientific proof that a contemporary aramid belt will significantly deteriorate in such a short amount of time? If VAG UK is the only organization in the world offering this advice, it strikes me as a shameful instance of making money off of unneeded labor. The little unenclosed fan belt that also powers the alternator on my TR7 is still functional after 43 years. When the vehicle was dismantled after 21 years and more than 160,000 miles, the original Focus OEM cambelt was also still fully operational. Cheapo cambelt repairs carry the danger of replacing an excellent original belt with a subpar one from who knows where and improper reassembly of the apparatus by a cack-handed technician resulting in misaligned timing difficulties reducing power and increasing fuel consumption...or worse.

I spent money on a helmet for my head, but the air simply seemed to blow right through it. I selected cycle helmets since they are built to withstand the elements (wind and rain) and are quite inexpensive. I've even run races with some of them.

Have you inquired with the cartographers?

Is that really the case? The stages often indicate the hardware needs; for example, a stage one usually doesn't need any further hardware, a stage two could need a stronger induction kit and a more free-flowing exhaust to get the most out of it, etc.