IrvesBMW
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Everything posted by IrvesBMW
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Does your BMW have an AGM or EFB battery?
IrvesBMW replied to IrvesBMW's topic in General Discussions
Affirmative, it is. Please refer to the accompanying photograph. To be frank, I find it quite peculiar. I have discovered an additional x1 available for purchase online that has an identical battery. I am seeking information from those who have an electronic flight bag (EFB) in order to enhance my knowledge before discussing it with BMW. The car I possess is a 2021 BMW X1 M Sport with a 2-liter engine. It was previously used as a demonstration by the BMW dealer, and I am now the first private owner. Is an EFB battery sufficiently potent for the electronics of BMW vehicles? I am receiving battery low notifications. -
Greetings I would want to inquire about the battery in my 2021 BMW X1, which is equipped with a Genuine original BMW EFB battery manufactured by Banner. I have noticed that most X1 models are equipped with AGM batteries. Is the BMW X1 or any other model equipped with a factory-installed EFB battery or an AGM battery? Kindly respond to the poll. Thank you.
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The 2004 320TD compact requires both inner and exterior tie rods.
IrvesBMW replied to WiseSage's topic in General Discussions
During the process of renovating the front suspension, I used Febi components for both the inner and outside parts. They are satisfactory considering their cost. I have also used Lemforder, which is likewise excellent. I engage in aggressive cornering manoeuvres. -
The blower motor only draws air via the coarse foam filter located on the front side of the heater motor box. This foam filter effectively prevents the passage of any particles visible to the human eye.Any dust particles that manage to get through are effectively blocked by the more refined pollen filters. The dashboard outlet vents are the only potential entry point for foreign objects in the system. The motor itself might be the cause, but it is unexpected for it to squeal at all speeds. However, increasing mileage increases the likelihood of this possibility. If you decide to remove the motor for replacement, I recommend taking photographs using your mobile phone and using correction fluid or a marker pen to clearly label the drive wheels and other relevant components. Wishing you success.
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Hello, Removing the blower motor requires great care and precision. To begin, open the bonnet (hood) and locate the two strengthening tubes positioned at the top of the engine bay, extending from under the windscreen plastic scuttle panel to each of the strut tops. Start by removing the plastic trim in the right-hand corner that is adjacent to the windscreen.Subsequently, you will have the capability to detach the right-hand strengthening tube that connects to the strut top. Presented before you is a sizable lid with a flat, box-like structure.The dimensions are about 300mm x 200mm.There is a rough filter foam on the front side, as well as an AUC sensor.Exercise caution while handling the sensor, since its fastener is prone to easy breakage.To access the inside, it is necessary to detach the large lid by unscrewing the four torx screws. It is advisable to clean the coarse filter. Once you remove the large lid, you will be able to locate the fan motor and the recirculating vent flaps. These vent flaps are not secured and just rest in place. Furthermore, at the termination of the vent flaps, there are driving gears that, if detached, must be reinstalled in the correct orientation to ensure the complete opening and closing of the vent. It is advisable to lubricate the bearings of the motor shaft, provided that they are not sealed bearings. This may be done by applying mild oil to the ends of the shaft.Avoid excessive application of oil, as it may result in an unpleasant odour inside the vehicle. Additionally, please note that the end-of-line resistor is located in that area. Inspect the fan blades for any abrasions that might potentially cause it to get entangled. Do not activate the fan without the box cover attached. Another plausible explanation for the noise might be that an object has been accidentally put into an air vent. The low setting of the fan may not have sufficient strength to dislodge it, but the high setting could be more effective. It is advisable to remove the lid of the pollen filters box and take out the pollen filters. Then, increase the fan speed.The pollen filters are changed during maintenance, and if they are not reinstalled properly, they may get disturbed.
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There may be a wide range of radio stations available, however the number of TV channels could be limited based on your region. The aftermarket antenna installed in my 320d could not get any television signals outside my home, so I did not pay much attention to it. However, one day while waiting for my wife at a higher place, I decided to experiment with it and it successfully picked up 60 to 70 television channels. Attempt it once again in an other setting.
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The ride was terrible once we struck a pothole.
IrvesBMW replied to br1anuk's topic in General Discussions
It is now the time of year ... Not just on this platform, but also across several online forums and Facebook groups, there is a prevalent occurrence of individuals engaging in the practise of mindlessly duplicating and sharing the responses of others. -
The ride was terrible once we struck a pothole.
IrvesBMW replied to br1anuk's topic in General Discussions
It is advisable to inspect the condition of the springs for any signs of breakage. Additionally, it is worth noting that wheels are susceptible to cracking. Consequently, it may be necessary to dismount the tyres in order to conduct a thorough examination of the wheels. -
Could you please provide visual representations in the form of images?
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Indeed, I am referring to the use of ISTA+ software at a nearby BMW dealership.
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After a brief period of time, the vehicle starts operation in an optimal manner, exhibiting a seamless performance devoid of any peculiar speculations. However, it experiences a decrease in power output beyond the speed threshold of 40 miles per hour. There is an absence of smoke emissions in the exhaust. Upon using the BimmerLink APK on my smartphone, I saw that the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) exhibits a soot level of 87%. However, it indicates that the regeneration process was completed 235 km prior and does not need further regeneration. This occurrence is peculiar. Today, I will be engaging in the task of changing the engine oil in order to observe the potential outcomes that may arise. I express my gratitude for your assistance.
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The absence of evidence in INPA+ (or maybe ISTA+) does not necessarily imply the absence of either of the two occurrences.
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However, it is important to understand the process by which diesel fuel might get mixed with engine oil. I used the INPA+ software to assess the condition of my injectors, and I can confirm that they are functioning optimally. I express my gratitude for your assistance.
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I conducted a verification process using the application Insta+. There is no issue related to the injector. There are no reported issues with the gasoline pump.
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I have verified that the coolant level is within acceptable parameters. There is no evidence of oil contamination seen on the coolant bottle and oil cap.
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Yes, I have obtained an item that has reached its maximum level. At one point, it had slightly beyond the average level. I did not add anything. One intriguing aspect is to the factors that contribute to the elevation of the level. I express my gratitude for your assistance.
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Greetings, I would like to bring to your attention that an unexpected message has shown on the iDrive system of my BMW E70 4.0d xDrive LCI model. The engine oil level is too elevated, resulting in a decrease in the power output of my vehicle. Do any of you have insights on the causes of this occurrence and any solutions to address it? I express my gratitude for your assistance.
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I purchased the most expansive radiator available, which spans the whole vertical length, although its effectiveness remains suboptimal. Given that the ambient temperatures exceed 86°F, it is unsurprising that the efficiency is compromised. Regarding the head gaskets, the original ones were measured to have a size of 94mm.
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I will proceed to get the measurements from the gaskets that have been removed, and thereafter verify their accuracy. Regarding the charger kit, the specific model I own (VF620) is equipped with a charge cooler. In warm climatic conditions, I have seen that the effectiveness of the system is compromised due to the consistently elevated intake air temperature (IAT) exceeding 60 degrees Celsius. This observation is disheartening. The air cooler is located inside the aluminium intake plenum, which is positioned above the engine. I am curious in the potential temperatures that may be attained in the absence of a charge cooler.
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I have been contemplating the installation of thicker head gaskets. The Mahle PowerPak forged Pistons used in the engine have a diameter of 92mm and a compression ratio of 12.2. Additionally, the cylinder heads will undergo a surface refreshing process. The engine is further fitted with the VF620 supercharger, which provides a boost of 7 psi. What recommendations do you propose? In addition, during my browsing endeavours, I came across a product from Cometic that provides a thicker alternative. However, it is worth noting that these options are available in dimensions of either 93 or 94 mm, while the original product is 92 X 0.027 inches. Is it OK to get a 93 or 94mm component in lieu of a 92mm component? I express my gratitude.
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Thank you once again for your response. Considering my decision to get the Mahle PowerPak forged pistons, which possess a distinctive coating, I am contemplating the possibility of abstaining from piston machining and instead using a thicker head gasket. What is your opinion on the matter at hand? Regarding the rod bearings, would you suggest the Lead-indium bearings from Mahle MotorSports as a suitable option? I kindly want your recommendation on the matter of valve seating. I express my gratitude one again.
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Thank you for providing your feedback. I really like the opportunity to engage with the S65 engine as a novice. Regarding the increase, it will range from 7 to 9 pounds per square inch (psi). I discovered a head gasket with a thickness of 1.3mm, which I am contemplating using in conjunction with Mahle pistons that have a compression ratio of 12.2:1, as opposed to the original ratio of 12.0:1. This adjustment is intended to compensate for the anticipated refreshment of the cylinder heads. Regarding the valves, I want to do a minimum of triple valve angle seating. However, I will consult the engineering company with whom I will be collaborating to inquire about your recommendation. I kindly request that you provide further information, as it would be very appreciated. Regarding the valve spring kit, could you recommend any other manufacturers or configurations? Would you recommend that I pursue an other course of action? I express my gratitude one again.
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Following a year of using the VF620 Supercharger Kit on my 2008 BMW M3 e92, I have made the decision to dismantle the engine and implement enhancements aimed at enhancing its reliability and maybe achieving superior performance. I am composing this essay with the intention of seeking recommendations on the optimal components to include in my engine repair. The vehicle will be used for both street and racing purposes. Please provide me with your sincere evaluation and recommendations. I own a pre-existing collection of Arrow connecting rods. The crankshaft will achieve complete balance with the acquisition of all the necessary components in accordance with the specifications. The further enhancements that I want to install on my S65 engine are as follows: A comprehensive set of valve springs that have been enhanced for improved performance. I have observed the SCHRICK HIGH-PERFORMANCE VALVE SPRING KIT. In your opinion, do you believe them to be the optimal choice? Could you recommend other brands? I am considering the use of a complete piston set manufactured by Mahle. However, I am now uncertain as to whether I should choose for the 4032 or 2618 forged pistons. Additionally, I am also undecided between using the original 12.2:1 compression ratio or the alternative 10.1:1 compression ratio. The bores were meticulously measured and are in excellent condition, with a bore size of 92mm. Could you kindly provide advice, please? I am considering the use of 12.1:1 compression ratio (CR) pistons in conjunction with a 1.3mm thick head gasket sourced from FCP Engineering, with the intention of slightly reducing the compression ratio. Kindly provide guidance or recommendations. The topic of discussion pertains to rod bearings. Presently, I am examining two potential options for bearings: the polymer-coated bearings manufactured by King Racing and the lead-indium racing bearings produced by Mahle Motorsport. Kindly provide guidance or recommendations. Which options would you recommend? Could you kindly provide any other recommendations? The whole gasket set is sourced from either Elring or Victor Reinz. Which option would be selected? I am replacing the original head bolts with ARP head studs. Kindly provide guidance or recommendations. The following enhancements are under consideration for implementation during the engine overhaul process. Could you provide any recommendations for the use of the VF620 supercharger kit from VF Engineering in street/race scenarios? Please do not hesitate to provide me with alternate items to the ones mentioned above. Additionally, if you are aware of any websites that are now giving discounts, I would really appreciate it if you could kindly indicate them. I express my gratitude in advance.
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The BMW M Performance electronic steering wheel does not need any programming, as per my understanding.