Darrellll

I had a similar problem with my Stromberg 175CDTU carburetor, whereby a gasoline leak originated from the vicinity of the automated choke mechanism. The carburetor was disassembled, and the gaskets and diaphragms were replaced, with the exception of the one on the automated choke, due to a stripped screw. What is the procedure for doing a vacuum test or inspection on a carburetor while it is detached from the engine? Additionally, is there a method to verify the functionality of the automated choke? I conducted three rounds of verification on the floats, which were adjusted to a measurement of 16/17mm. Additionally, I replaced the float needle with a new one. Do you have any suggestions or ideas to contribute? I have observed that the startek handbook seems to lack a certain PDF file, namely 072-136. If somebody had this, it would be advantageous. The included image depicts the location of the leak.

I appreciate your advice and will have my husband check the pipes, but I will definitely schedule another appointment for my vehicle, this time with a Mercedes service center. The situation has worsened since some kind soul drove into my parked vehicle, but I have faith that things will eventually improve. Again, I appreciate your assistance.

One technician suggested that I try replacing the maf sensor, and when it didn't work, I went to a second mechanic who told me the same thing. Then you must have been instructed to use turbo. So, we've had the arms examined, and everything seems OK there; the next step, courtesy to the guy on this site, is to check the pipes, but then we'll have to pay for yet another diagnostic to retrieve the codes and (we assume) reset the vehicle. Thanks

Many thanks

Thank you so much for your help; I plan to have them inspected today. I'll need to get the relevant codes; are the hoses or whatever else needs fixing easily accessible? Thanks

After replacing the maf air sensor, the engine control unit, and still having the engine management light on and the vehicle in limp mode, I have been advised that the problem lies with the turbo.

When using detailing products, have you waited for them to dry? possible chemical etching based on appearance.

I would think, just dust it, I wouldn't use any chemicals or cleaners on that.👍

I assume you're referring about RTJ Autos on Gorsey Brow. They are experts in the Saab brand.

Yes, I like the weather band. Last night was really entertaining in these parts. I suppose I'll put the leds on the "list" for later. Another query is whether or not this ROVER LANDROVER 99-05 Auxiliary 3.5mm Car Adapter will work with the factory radio. It doesn't have a factory CD changer, and I'm not sure what the rear looks like. I'm not sure whether LR utilised a single head unit and simply added the CD changer.

Is there a method to repair or replace the bulb or led that serves as the display for the stock radio?

That is exactly my present position. (I'm the cack-handed mechanic, and the new belt is made of Chinesium, whilst the original is made of...er...Japanesium.) Timing belts, unlike tyres, do not carry date tags, and in an old automobile with little demand for components, they might have been sitting on the shelf for a long period. Finally, Daihatsu emphasizes in the handbook the need of notfolding belts at severe angles, which is how the replacement belt was kept. All of this makes me skeptical that I'll be better off post replacement (if I achieve it), but it also makes me much more certain that rubber band autodestructing engines are a bad idea.

This question has come up a few times lately, and I know it is often asked here. A search would likely provide the answer, but it seems like a good subject for the FAQ. How can you distinguish between the following automobiles and bodies: the pre-lit Narrow Low-line (ii) iii) Limited iv) Broad Do I have any missing standard bodies? Please provide information on any places that are clearly different, measuring points, etc.

I'm including a few images here. The body was undamaged, and the tyre was in its proper location. As can be seen in the image, the rod tyre had been deformed. He suggested I go to BMW since they would have the component in stock, but once I got there, they examined it and gave me a quotation for £9000.