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Screwdriver_1

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Everything posted by Screwdriver_1

  1. I have no idea what you're looking at that costs $380 per, but many people, myself included, agree that the Vredestein Sprint Classics at 185/15 cannot be beaten. Tires like that can be found just about everywhere, and in my opinion, the best brand is Coker. Spend $173 to reach the top. https://www.summitracing.com/search...dMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=vredestein I got mine from Euro-Tire (their website is https://www.eurotire.com/); they can get you an updated pricing quote through email. It is possible to use bigger tires on certain vehicles, but this requires thorough research because of potential rear clearance difficulties.
  2. The locals really know very little about your vehicle. With thanks, snapchat
  3. The sensor I replaced was the stock one that came with the new brakes in 2012; do you think upgrading to a different sensor will help?
  4. Tell me about the sensor brand you installed. What year is the automobile, too?
  5. Find out what's wrong by having it scanned using diagnostic equipment.
  6. To Everyone, I have recently purchased a 2014 SL400 (W231) model vehicle, and I would want to get it modified. I haven't had my vehicle tuned in a long time, so I'm simply curious to see what kinds of alternatives are out there at this point in history. I have seen that several different firms, such Superchips, TDI tuning, Rhino remaps, and others, all claim that they can provide my vehicle with strong stage 1 improvements; however, I am unsure which of these companies is superior to the others. The majority of them seem to provide a box that can flash the ECU, which is an acceptable strategy. On my motorcycles, I have them each individually dyno tuned by an experienced tuning mechanic, but it does not seem that this is a possibility here, or if it is, I have not yet located anybody who can do this service for me. If it's at all feasible, I'd much rather have a bespoke map than a "canned" map, but if it isn't, then a canned map will suffice. In any case, do you have any recommendations for reputable businesses? And in the same vein, are there any to avoid? By the way, I am now located in Surrey.... Thank you so much in advance, Al
  7. I believe here is where you must exercise caution, since I'm sure some plans will cover the accident body damage but not the accompanying repairs, such as a faulty engine; but, if the engine failed and caused the collision, the situation may be different.
  8. I think it's one of those things you have to word very carefully if you want to get back at the insurance company. Also, keep in mind that the adjusters are trained to ask the right questions.
  9. The end that went into the radio remained the same; however, since CD players changed between 1993/1994 and 1995 (and all DIs, for that matter), the plugs at the CD changer were different. The end that went into the radio remained the same. In addition, if it's any indication, the first radio that came with the '93/'94 RRC had a different part number, which was RTC7713.
  10. In point of fact, the United States only received one radio, model number AMR2772, for both the DI and the 1995 RRC. It was the most luxury product that Land Rover had to offer and was compatible with the CD changer.
  11. At the very least. The engine is at high risk of being ruined.
  12. I purchased mine from Playskool, which comes highly recommended since not only is it incredibly light, but it also never fogs up.
  13. The OP was, in my opinion, fortunate. If the map had caused the engine to underfuel rather than overfuel, the explosion would have obliterated the engine in seconds. If I didn't want to do it myself, I would have lost faith in the map and remapper and looked elsewhere.
  14. Recover your money by doing it yourself using the MHD phone app and files. They provide map updates on a regular basis, and you can simply switch from stage 1 to 2, 2 to 1, or back to standard at any moment, as well as have numerous settings like exhaust burble, always open exhaust flap, and so on. My 116i performs well with a stage 1 - 136 before reaching 200bhp. The flasher software costs £350, the stage 1 or 2 map costs £98, and the wireless obd interface costs £85 (it also works with diag tools like Bimmer-tool and Bimmercode).
  15. Check your reg number on the.gov mot website. https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk I'm curious whether there's one and what it's for.
  16. Ignore the recall; it is not mandatory. It's a 9-year-old automobile, so whatever the recall is for, it's a little late in my opinion. The majority of them are because manufacturers' corporate backsides have been kicked since the VW emissionsgate for lax compliance. My in-law owns a pair of VWs and was pestered by the local dealer to get them serviced, but he refused. If it's a safety recall, disregard the preceding.
  17. You may compare performance characteristics on fastestlaps.com and determine the horsepower by inputting the registration number into parts sites like autodoc.co.uk.
  18. Test the Oil Pressure to the utmost. Possibly the sensor, at best. faulty sensors can provide inaccurate readings at idle and fail under stress. If it's a sensor, it's worth attempting a simple, inexpensive repair. Also ensure the correct oil filter is installed; even inexpensive filters can serve this purpose. Put on a Good one so it flows properly if it is an inexpensive one. Mann are attractive on them.
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