Screwdriver_1

Precisely like Diesel Benz says. It seems that the navigation drive is unable to detect the antenna. This is a prevalent problem that often occurs with antennas that are not original equipment. Additionally, the process of acquiring satellites might take up to fifteen minutes. Perform a full power cycle on the navigation drive. That is, disconnect the power source, wait for 30 seconds, and then reconnect it.

Nowadays, we no longer just wash our automobiles; instead, we meticulously detail them. Frankly, I get great pleasure from spending a Saturday afternoon meticulously cleaning and enhancing the appearance of my just acquired A45S plus. Upon applying all of my selected items on the automobile, it now looks excellent. Excluding the wheels! I own alloy wheels that have been coated black, and they consistently seem lacklustre. I have conducted a thorough search for a product on the shelves at Halfords and other establishments, but regrettably, I have been unable to locate any suitable items to enhance the lustre of my wheels. Do you have any recommendations, individuals?

The appearance is same, but I have conducted more investigation. Initially, multiple car key replacement companies and the main dealer informed me that my 2015 SL400, even with the chassis number provided, is equipped with a new security system. This means that I am required to obtain a replacement key from the main dealer. The cost of this replacement key, excluding the slide-out manual key which I still possess, is £333.00 at the main dealer. If I had an additional £100, I would be more confident. Nevertheless, determined not to be discouraged, I persisted in my inquiry.... I spoke with an individual who had genuine expertise in the local area. They advised me to examine the key and verify if it bore a code consisting of either seven or eight digits. Despite the system being modified in 2015, my automobile still has the previous security system, as shown by an 8-digit number. Since I have already scheduled a vehicle service for when I return from vacation in a few weeks, I have also made arrangements for the locksmith to visit the Mercedes-Benz expert at the same time and fix the issue with the car key. The final cost is uncertain at the moment, since it depends on the extent of the required work. However, even if a complete key replacement is necessary, it will only cost £180.

I am unable to see anything inside the plastic tip. All the components are protruding from the remaining part of the key, which is why I am perplexed as to why it is not functioning.

The square end that inserts into the vehicle dashboard has fractured completely, while it may be reattached, it remains non-functional, leaving me perplexed as to the cause.

Somehow... Yesterday, I accidentally damaged my key for the SL. Fortunately, I was at a nearby gas station, so my wife was able to get a ride home to grab the spare key. This resolved the issue. The price for a newly reprogrammed MB is £333. I have attempted to use one of the firms that claim to provide a lower price, but they are unable to do so for a 2015 model. Has anybody been successful in obtaining a lower price for the same type of vehicle as mine?

I prefer a diesel engine for its higher fuel efficiency, especially considering the age of your vehicle. Diesel engines generally perform well, but as they age, components might deteriorate and malfunction.

In some cases, the leak may be so small that it cannot be detected by the sniff tester. To address this issue, I have employed a method where I remove the plugs and drain the coolant. Then, I introduce smoke directly into the header tank using a smoke machine that also pumps in air. This allows me to simulate the pressure of the coolant. Additionally, I can heat the block using a space heater to replicate the effects of heat on the system. Alternatively, I can rapidly heat the car and quickly drain the coolant to perform the test. If smoke emerges from any of the plug holes, it indicates that there is a leak present. I frequently utilise my smoke machine for various purposes and consider it an essential tool for DIY car repairs, particularly with modern vehicles.

The vehicle is equipped with the Toyota 1.4d engine, so you may find more information about it by referring to similar Toyota diesel engines of the same age. These engines are known to have issues with head gaskets and cracked heads. The EGR cooler can also develop cracks, similar to other Toyota engines I have worked on in the past. It has been a long time since I last had a first-generation Mini diesel in front of me. One possible solution is to replace the coolant cap, as they can sometimes f

The Pug engine will reach perfection after all of those tasks have been completed. The use of WP bolts may have been a challenging experience while encountering the infamous "click" and free wheel. Currently, that is the case.

Was the BMW map sensor authentic? Has the wiring to the MAP sensor been examined? Has the boost sensor on the charge intake pipe been examined?

I have successfully rectified my difficulty and I am now posting again. I am hopeful that my message may be helpful to someone. It is crucial, in my opinion, to have the automobile inspected by a skilled automotive electrician who has a genuine Mercedes STAR diagnostic system. By engaging in this activity, several insights will be revealed. The presence of a problem with the Overhead Control Panel (OCP) on the windscreen, namely in the area where the inside lights are situated, became readily apparent upon inspection of my vehicle. The Star system documented that the N70b1 sensor, which is the temperature sensor found in the automobile, was providing a reading that was deemed "implausible". This implies exceeding the boundaries (I presume it was 65°C). According to reports, the consequence of this event was a significant deceleration in CANBUS communications, resulting in a substantial decrease in their speed. It is evident that this CANBUS problem served as a catalyst for the occurrence of several other faults. According to my expert, the communication in the car becomes extremely congested, causing no communication on the CANBUS system. As a result, error messages are generated and the system eventually malfunctions, with the command system turning off and headlamps flashing in the most severe scenario. The system experiences a state of being overloaded. The resolution of the issue was achieved with the substitution of the OCP. I purchased a pre-owned item from eBay and all problems have been fixed. I previously said that the issue has been repaired; however, I am now experiencing a "light sensor" problem. This error may be attributed to either a broken sensor or a poor connection. The key takeaway I acquired is to seek assistance from an individual proficient in using the STAR system.

Thank you for the further recommendations. I apologise for any potential violation of forum standards or decorum, however I stumbled discovered this information and it strongly aligns with my own experience. Disregard the technical aspects of the oscilloscope - the intriguing portion spans around 7 pages. I am quite interested in receiving remarks.

Regrettably, the newly developed AGM battery failed to achieve the intended result. I have just acquired a new Consumer/Systems battery and a recently acquired starting battery, both of which are completely charged. Furthermore, I am still able to access the whole dashboard display. As anticipated, I have diligently sought recommendations from several sources. I encountered an unconventional technique where I would apply contact cleaner to the ignition key hole in the evening and use a hair dryer to operate the key slot in the morning. Indeed, I too found it perplexing, particularly the mention of the contact cleaner. However, in my state of desperation, I pondered if the warm air had any logical justification. The following day, I positioned a fan heater on the driver seat and let it to operate in a gentle manner on the bottom section of the dashboard, namely in the vicinity of the ignition key, for a duration of around two hours. It was a frigid and arid day. Subsequently, I operated the vehicle for a duration exceeding thirty minutes without encountering any complications, since the dashboard typically initiates within five minutes of a drive. On the following day, I had to go on a journey that was less severe and rainy. The dashboard reactivated after a mere five minutes of starting the automobile. I have been perplexed by this - was the fan heater trick only an isolated occurrence? If not, what is the significance of this? This morning, I used the fan heater to replicate the experiment, despite the very cold and dry conditions. I have just returned from a 45-minute drive with a flawlessly functioning dashboard. There seems to be a correlation between the presence of warm or hot air being played on the dashboard before to starting the vehicle and the occurrence of the erratic flashing lights. However, what is the underlying cause behind this? Although it may seem absurd, I am certain that I can replicate the process again and get consistent outcomes. Do you have any suggestions?

The difficulties were resolved by my local independent MB expert, who also suspects the battery. I have just installed a high-quality AGM service battery and we will see the results. Thank you for your comments so far.

The vehicle is situated outside on the driveway and is seldom used, occurring around two-thirds of the time every week, mostly for brief excursions.

A new issue has occurred in my 2006 SL350. The dashboard has occasional occurrences of warning messages. Malfunction of the Restraint System The speedometer and fuel indicator of the SRS sometimes deviate from zero and thereafter rebound. The use of spot lighting and head lamps Warning lights for roll over bars, battery, and repair visits. Comand becomes agitated. Heater controls modify There seems to be a significant amount of historical information on these forums on this issue. If I understand correctly, the census suggests that the problem is caused by a defective Electronic Ignition Module (EIS or EIM). Does that continue to be the prevailing viewpoint? Can anybody contribute to this? If the EIS/EIM is swapped, is it necessary to alter the keys or is this identity managed by a different entity? Thank you.

Continuous learning is an ever-present opportunity.

Greetings . I have never seen anything of that kind before. Initially, I considered the possibility of it being a cap, but you have already ruled out that possibility. It will be intriguing to see whether anybody else has knowledge on the matter.

Are there any pre-heat settings or other power-consuming features that need to be disabled? Did the act of unlocking the automobile fail to enable the release of the cable?

Driver's side for left-hand drive vehicles or passenger side for right-hand drive vehicles. Attempting to enter without removing the wheel may not be feasible due to limited space. The harness connection consists of a male and female connector set on a plastic slide located beneath the arch liner. Wheel removed, arch liner screws taken out, a few heat shield screws, and it is placed in the space behind. The connections in my situation were not correctly connected, resulting in the identical difficulty you had.

Oh. Sure. Have him inspect the primary rear harness connection located beneath the wheel arch. Remove the rear left wheel. The primary harness connection may be reached under the wheel arch liner. If the sensors are also malfunctioning, then this is probably the issue. This connection connects the rear bumper wire loom to the car's other components. I speak from firsthand experience.

It seems that the installer neglected to rejoin the connections during the installation of the new exhaust.

Adore it!

I have successfully used the lemon legislation in Washington, including adherence to the norm of more than 30 days. Seek for a proficient attorney that specialises in lemon law and operates on a contingency basis. The dealer may attempt to delay. My situation resulted in legal action, so I promptly got a lawyer who handled everything. Excellent and straightforward. If the attorney works on a contingency basis, he will request all invoices, shop repair tickets with dates, and other relevant documents from you. If the attorney decides to take on the case, there is a high probability of winning since they will not charge you if they do not succeed. The individual might also compel Mazda to reimburse you for all your costs, including legal fees.