Screwdriver_1

The difficulties were resolved by my local independent MB expert, who also suspects the battery. I have just installed a high-quality AGM service battery and we will see the results. Thank you for your comments so far.

The vehicle is situated outside on the driveway and is seldom used, occurring around two-thirds of the time every week, mostly for brief excursions.

A new issue has occurred in my 2006 SL350. The dashboard has occasional occurrences of warning messages. Malfunction of the Restraint System The speedometer and fuel indicator of the SRS sometimes deviate from zero and thereafter rebound. The use of spot lighting and head lamps Warning lights for roll over bars, battery, and repair visits. Comand becomes agitated. Heater controls modify There seems to be a significant amount of historical information on these forums on this issue. If I understand correctly, the census suggests that the problem is caused by a defective Electronic Ignition Module (EIS or EIM). Does that continue to be the prevailing viewpoint? Can anybody contribute to this? If the EIS/EIM is swapped, is it necessary to alter the keys or is this identity managed by a different entity? Thank you.

Continuous learning is an ever-present opportunity.

Greetings . I have never seen anything of that kind before. Initially, I considered the possibility of it being a cap, but you have already ruled out that possibility. It will be intriguing to see whether anybody else has knowledge on the matter.

Are there any pre-heat settings or other power-consuming features that need to be disabled? Did the act of unlocking the automobile fail to enable the release of the cable?

Driver's side for left-hand drive vehicles or passenger side for right-hand drive vehicles. Attempting to enter without removing the wheel may not be feasible due to limited space. The harness connection consists of a male and female connector set on a plastic slide located beneath the arch liner. Wheel removed, arch liner screws taken out, a few heat shield screws, and it is placed in the space behind. The connections in my situation were not correctly connected, resulting in the identical difficulty you had.

Oh. Sure. Have him inspect the primary rear harness connection located beneath the wheel arch. Remove the rear left wheel. The primary harness connection may be reached under the wheel arch liner. If the sensors are also malfunctioning, then this is probably the issue. This connection connects the rear bumper wire loom to the car's other components. I speak from firsthand experience.

It seems that the installer neglected to rejoin the connections during the installation of the new exhaust.

Adore it!

I have successfully used the lemon legislation in Washington, including adherence to the norm of more than 30 days. Seek for a proficient attorney that specialises in lemon law and operates on a contingency basis. The dealer may attempt to delay. My situation resulted in legal action, so I promptly got a lawyer who handled everything. Excellent and straightforward. If the attorney works on a contingency basis, he will request all invoices, shop repair tickets with dates, and other relevant documents from you. If the attorney decides to take on the case, there is a high probability of winning since they will not charge you if they do not succeed. The individual might also compel Mazda to reimburse you for all your costs, including legal fees.

Previous AMG part numbers before the merger start with 'HWA'. Unsure about the more recent content.

The fine print had several restrictions. Specific mechanical parts not included. The warranty did not seem comprehensive. Alternatively, you may consider looking into warranties wise. I worry that if an issue arose that needed MB's assistance, they could be hesitant to help since the vehicle had been serviced elsewhere and was unfamiliar to them. If MB examined and approved it... Previously, I allocated £200 each month for these expenses. I just had to spend £800 on my current automobile in one year. Various choices and ideas.

It's me again. I believe I have discovered one. It originates from a Jaguar dealership. They provide a 12-month warranty. How can I get a warranty on my MB? Do I need to get the automobile examined by Mercedes-Benz before they approve the warranty? Any information would be appreciated.

I have always had a fondness for the W213. My maximum budget is £25,000 in cash. I found a car with 85,000 kilometres (2018) and decent specifications, along with a full-service history. Am I seeking out problems? Research vacuum pumps, rocker arms and the negative effects of short travels. My commute is on the road at night, so small trips won't be an issue. Are these engines reliable and capable of achieving high mileages like those of starships? All ideas are appreciated.

I choose Michelin tyres consistently and exclusively.

There are no inherently poor decisions, just certain compromises. I just had a same decision-making process three months ago and ultimately chose a 2018 Plus model with a mileage of 40,000 km. The car comes with comprehensive service documents, having had a thorough servicing by an authorised dealer. It is in exceptional condition. I chose this option to circumvent the soft limitation, get the sport exhaust, take advantage of the favourable pricing (with the extended warranty), and believe that the performance disparity with subsequent versions is negligible. For what it's worth, there is absolutely no delay upon launching. The optimal recommendation is to evaluate the cars by test-driving them, and choose the alternative that elicits a genuine smile, as it is likely to be the most suitable choice. If all of these bring a smile to your face, you are faced with an issue of high social status. 🙂

Greetings, everyone. If the recall has been done for the strap around the tank, do you know whether they can be changed over to a new tank? I will try to add extra coolant again at some time today and see. The user's text is a single letter "S". Curiously, this issue began occurring as the temperatures decreased in the UK, but it ceases whenever the vehicle reaches its optimal temperature. Apart from the coolant tank (since I cant see any leaks or symptoms of leakage) is there anything else that might cause the coolant warning light to show up on the screen then go away after vehicle is up to temp? Could it be a water pump? I plan to visit a buddy today in order to connect my vehicle to their VCDs/diagnostic equipment.

I have recently examined the engine bay trim and removed it to access the coolant. I am unable to detect any indications of leakage or any regions that are damp or marked with moisture. The appearance suggests extreme aridity. Last week, I completely filled the fuel tank to its maximum capacity. However, after doing so, the warning light indicating low fuel still appeared. In an attempt to resolve this issue, I drove the vehicle for a drive, thinking that it would need a reset. Consequently, the warning sign disappeared. However, after a week, the warning sign has reappeared once again. I have a little suspicion that the coolant level is below the maximum mark after refilling it. However, it is still more than the minimum value. I am certain that I filled the coolant till it reached the maximum level. However, I am unsure whether it is necessary to wait for a few minutes for the liquid to settle and then refill it again. But is clearly below max again (but remaining above min)

Greetings, everyone. Experiencing coolant warning indicators during cold starts, which began occurring this winter at low temperatures. Essentially, the issue occurs when starting the vehicle and disappears after the coolant has reached a warm temperature or when the temperature gauge is at least halfway up while driving. Upon inspection, I saw that the coolant level is over the minimum need but below the maximum limit. There are no visible indications of any leaks below the vehicle. I already added coolant to get it to the maximum level last week, nevertheless the warning light continues to appear. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? If I ultimately replace the coolant tank, are there any considerations to keep in mind while adding fresh coolant? For example, add coolant to the tank and pressurise it to ensure there are no air leaks in the system. Thank you.

Have you organised or arranged this?

😉

You are welcome. Best of luck.

https://fuse-box.info/bmw 😉

Replace the Halfords battery with a high-quality one. Their quality seems to be subpar. Typically, we choose for authentic MB batteries due to their durability, functionality, and proper compatibility. In order to determine the underlying cause of the problem, it will be necessary to connect it to a diagnostic machine, which will assist in identifying the specific defect.