Screwdriver_1

Previous AMG part numbers before the merger start with 'HWA'. Unsure about the more recent content.

The fine print had several restrictions. Specific mechanical parts not included. The warranty did not seem comprehensive. Alternatively, you may consider looking into warranties wise. I worry that if an issue arose that needed MB's assistance, they could be hesitant to help since the vehicle had been serviced elsewhere and was unfamiliar to them. If MB examined and approved it... Previously, I allocated £200 each month for these expenses. I just had to spend £800 on my current automobile in one year. Various choices and ideas.

It's me again. I believe I have discovered one. It originates from a Jaguar dealership. They provide a 12-month warranty. How can I get a warranty on my MB? Do I need to get the automobile examined by Mercedes-Benz before they approve the warranty? Any information would be appreciated.

I have always had a fondness for the W213. My maximum budget is £25,000 in cash. I found a car with 85,000 kilometres (2018) and decent specifications, along with a full-service history. Am I seeking out problems? Research vacuum pumps, rocker arms and the negative effects of short travels. My commute is on the road at night, so small trips won't be an issue. Are these engines reliable and capable of achieving high mileages like those of starships? All ideas are appreciated.

I choose Michelin tyres consistently and exclusively.

There are no inherently poor decisions, just certain compromises. I just had a same decision-making process three months ago and ultimately chose a 2018 Plus model with a mileage of 40,000 km. The car comes with comprehensive service documents, having had a thorough servicing by an authorised dealer. It is in exceptional condition. I chose this option to circumvent the soft limitation, get the sport exhaust, take advantage of the favourable pricing (with the extended warranty), and believe that the performance disparity with subsequent versions is negligible. For what it's worth, there is absolutely no delay upon launching. The optimal recommendation is to evaluate the cars by test-driving them, and choose the alternative that elicits a genuine smile, as it is likely to be the most suitable choice. If all of these bring a smile to your face, you are faced with an issue of high social status. 🙂

Greetings, everyone. If the recall has been done for the strap around the tank, do you know whether they can be changed over to a new tank? I will try to add extra coolant again at some time today and see. The user's text is a single letter "S". Curiously, this issue began occurring as the temperatures decreased in the UK, but it ceases whenever the vehicle reaches its optimal temperature. Apart from the coolant tank (since I cant see any leaks or symptoms of leakage) is there anything else that might cause the coolant warning light to show up on the screen then go away after vehicle is up to temp? Could it be a water pump? I plan to visit a buddy today in order to connect my vehicle to their VCDs/diagnostic equipment.

I have recently examined the engine bay trim and removed it to access the coolant. I am unable to detect any indications of leakage or any regions that are damp or marked with moisture. The appearance suggests extreme aridity. Last week, I completely filled the fuel tank to its maximum capacity. However, after doing so, the warning light indicating low fuel still appeared. In an attempt to resolve this issue, I drove the vehicle for a drive, thinking that it would need a reset. Consequently, the warning sign disappeared. However, after a week, the warning sign has reappeared once again. I have a little suspicion that the coolant level is below the maximum mark after refilling it. However, it is still more than the minimum value. I am certain that I filled the coolant till it reached the maximum level. However, I am unsure whether it is necessary to wait for a few minutes for the liquid to settle and then refill it again. But is clearly below max again (but remaining above min)

Greetings, everyone. Experiencing coolant warning indicators during cold starts, which began occurring this winter at low temperatures. Essentially, the issue occurs when starting the vehicle and disappears after the coolant has reached a warm temperature or when the temperature gauge is at least halfway up while driving. Upon inspection, I saw that the coolant level is over the minimum need but below the maximum limit. There are no visible indications of any leaks below the vehicle. I already added coolant to get it to the maximum level last week, nevertheless the warning light continues to appear. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? If I ultimately replace the coolant tank, are there any considerations to keep in mind while adding fresh coolant? For example, add coolant to the tank and pressurise it to ensure there are no air leaks in the system. Thank you.

Have you organised or arranged this?

😉

You are welcome. Best of luck.

https://fuse-box.info/bmw 😉

Replace the Halfords battery with a high-quality one. Their quality seems to be subpar. Typically, we choose for authentic MB batteries due to their durability, functionality, and proper compatibility. In order to determine the underlying cause of the problem, it will be necessary to connect it to a diagnostic machine, which will assist in identifying the specific defect.

Greetings, everyone. Has anybody discovered a resolution to this problem? I own a 2018 X3 equipped with the TV feature. Previously, it functioned flawlessly. However, I am now experiencing an issue where, when scanning, it detects a total of 84 digital channels. However, at completion of the scan, just Challenge TV is shown, with no other channels appearing. I have attempted in other areas, with same outcomes. I suspect that there is a software glitch, which is preventing me from updating it. Interestingly, my attempts to update the software using the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) provided by BMW have also been unsuccessful. If I am unable to locate the explanation, I will consult BMW when my service is due in October. Regrettably, they are not in close proximity to my location.

Mercedes-Benz does not manufacture various kinds of fluids and/or components such as oil, automatic gearbox fluid (ATF), braking fluid, zero-hydraulic mineral (ZHM) fluid, and others. Any product that fulfils or surpasses the above specifications is acceptable.

Greetings, everyone. I have been in possession of my CX-30 for a duration of around 7 months, and I am really enjoying the experience. One concern that has arisen in recent months is to a creaking or rattling sound emanating from the upper black panel located on the front doors in close proximity to the glass. Has this problem been encountered by any other individuals? I presented my vehicle to the car dealer, who said that the issue in question is a "characteristic inherent to the automobile." However, I hold the belief that this assertion lacks credibility. Over the course of time, the manifestation of uneven road conditions has been more apparent.

The 5L presentation of Bilt Hamber APC offers excellent cost-effectiveness.

I kindly suggest reading the contents of this thread:https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2025556

It is highly recommended that the vehicle be sent to an authorised Mercedes-Benz dealership or a reputable independent Mercedes-Benz expert for further assessment and potential repairs. I inquired about your location with the expectation that someone within this community have knowledge of a reputable establishment in close proximity to your current whereabouts. The term "Ireland" lacks specificity in its reference.

May I inquire about the location of your establishment?

I have had a similar issue with my Range Rover, whereby the installation of a new battery did not resolve the malfunctioning stop-start feature. The dealer suggested that the individual should increase their use of the vehicle. The vehicle was brought to an Auto Electrician who retained possession of it for a duration of two days. During this time, the Auto Electrician made attempts to address the issue by using various strategies and allowing the vehicle to enter a dormant state before repeating the process. Discovered the presence of a parasitic drain. After the issue was resolved, no more complications were encountered. Furthermore, as previously said, it is advisable to get a Ctek charger, since this is a practice I have used for all of my vehicles.

Could you kindly request Braybooks to arrange it?

I have selected a 15mm bore diameter, would this size be considered sufficient?

Thank you for the responses. The intention is to repair the turbo intake seal and boost pipe seals, as well as install a catch can, either temporarily or permanently, in order to visually monitor the amount of oil and condensate that enters the engine. I am contemplating the replacement of the seals subsequent to the resonator, but, I am uncertain of the magnitude of the task. I will thoroughly examine the boost mechanism.