dave783

I fail to comprehend the tuner's peculiar behaviour.

Appointed my E93 I enjoy frittering away money for no good reason.

I also checked out your Facebook profile. What a shame your twin isn't a Chester resident. You seem like the ideal individual to provide me a hand.

Your kind words of guidance are greatly appreciated. Near Liverpool and Chester, I am. The first place I went was to a BMW expert. I was offered the option to purchase a new DPF or have it removed for the pitiful sum of £700.

Greetings, everyone Since I'm new to this website, I apologize in advance if this is posted in the incorrect area. As a result, I am completely distraught and hopeless. My 2016 BMW 318d Touring serves as both my personal vehicle and my mode of transportation when I provide end-of-life care as a practitioner and paramedic. When my car was chilly, it began to hesitate, jerk, and stall around two weeks ago. The automobile exhibited none of the aforementioned issues (only when engine was cold) after it was warmed up, and its pulling power was identical to the day I purchased it new. In any case, I was outside a patient's house when it stalled three times and the alarm for the drivetrain turned red. It was determined by a mechanic to be the DPF and an air plausibility code after I had them investigated. A mechanic I took it to for an inspection found no problems with the DPF, but the air intake breather hose was drenched in oil and broke apart in his hands. Two days after I swapped it out, the red drivetrain light went out and was replaced with a yellow light, which indicates reduced performance. Thankfully, I no longer experienced any symptoms, hesitancy, or uncertainty. After two garages (I appreciate you sticking with me thus far), Halfords diagnosed an air leak and told me it was my turbo, but the repair cost £1650, which is out of my price range. Apologies, but I'm not a mechanic. However, I seem to recall reading that the boost hose could pop out due to excessive boost pressure. So as not to appear to be an absolute moron, I only nodded. They claimed it would be a coin flip as to whether it was the turbo or not. I hate to beg, but after a terrible week of worry, I've been to three different garages and could really use some reassurance. No matter how much I wish I were mechanically inclined, the truth is that I am not. On the other hand, I observed that, similar to the previous pipe, the charge pipe that leads into the air intake had fresh oil surrounding its junction (image attached). Back smoke is nonexistent No odd "whistling" coming from the top Exhaust (before the warning light becomes red) It would be really appreciated if you could lend a hand. Air and DPF plausibility codes are being displayed. In exchange for medical advice, I will gladly trade mechanical advice 😉. Once again, I'm really grateful.

As far as I'm concerned, the tires can be shredded since they aren't my current preferred option (I would love a whole set of similar ones). My goal in scheduling gearbox repair for this coming Friday is to finally have the 'thump' out of lower ratios eliminated, a problem that has plagued me with every high-miler I've ever owned.

I want to thank everyone. I was able to get it for free as a buddy of mine had it sitting on his drive for three years and was about to send it for scrap. This antique diesel-powered vehicle has 148k miles on the odometer and is now a weekly commuting route between Nottinghamshire and West London. It starts up with the first turn of the key. I haven't spent enough money on her to make the experience as "finessed" as I would want it to be just yet, but she drives well and when I press the fun pedal, I get the results I desire. Plus, it's completely free of the features that have irritated me in the last several vehicles—for example, lane keep assist, speed sign alert, weariness monitor, etc.—so I can relax and enjoy the ride. Progress: Replaced battery Equip yourself with discs, pads, callipers, and flexi lines. A few tires Concrete manifold Inclusive service Carrier for new driver door handles The other set of items: A code for a remote fob Rear ARB bushes (MOT notice) Change the gearbox fluid. Vac cylinders and lines, as well as new engine mounts Updated audio system with Apple CarPlay compatibility (the original device only had one functional corner) With any luck, the vacuum cylinder will fix the engine's last wobble, and then everything will be fine. Since Turbo is the first, it may be considered later this year.

The X5 was mys at no cost. I rescued it from the scrapyard, restored a few parts, and am now using it every day.

The back sensor on the right or left side? Also, are xenon headlights standard on this vehicle? The sensors on the driver's side are responsible for auto-leveling the headlights.

The additional oil changes are essential. One of my vehicles has had oil changes every 12 months, although only accumulating 1,700 miles. However, I prioritise the MOT and oil and filter replacement while it is on the ramp, with other filters replaced as needed.

Which module is being referenced? What is the FEM?

I purchased a 2019 F31 with 35,000 miles on it. Through the utilisation of Carly, I discerned that fraud was probable. I consulted a BMW specialist who validated my concern: the vehicle had previously been equipped with a mileage blocker and had accumulated 93,000 kilometres. I am not too worried, given that mileage is hardly substantial for a B47. However, because to the inconsistent service history (probably to conceal the mileage blocker), I have undertaken the following actions: Comprehensive service Cera Tec application Archoil DR6900 application Transfer case lubricant replacement The vehicle functions adequately, despite an error signal indicating variable glow plug resistance. I will likely replace all the plugs on the next service. Are any other actions I should contemplate undertaking?

Primary statistic. I purchased one from ECP, and it lasted only 9 miles until the car reached temperature and then became stuck in the open position. While not advocating for the payment of BMW tax, consider acquiring a quality product from MAHLE. MEYLE is my preference.

I had it changed at a BMW dealership, with the cost covered by BMW; nonetheless, this issue predated the EGR repair.

It is a two-wheel drive.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2016 BMW 2 Series Gran Tourer with a 1.4L diesel engine and automatic gearbox, accommodating seven passengers. At low speeds (below 20 mph), particularly in stop-and-go traffic, the gearbox occasionally jerks violently, resembling the sensation of being struck from the front or rear. I have infrequently received a "Transmission too hot" warning, which dissipates within seconds. I had not seen it for six months; nonetheless, I encountered those individuals today when travelling through the town this afternoon. A BMW dealership reported that they conducted an inspection and found no apparent problems or warning codes. Another mechanic recommended a complete gearbox replacement, estimated at between £5,000 to £6,000, which seems like a significant increase. Has anyone encountered a similar situation or possess any insights regarding the potential cause? Your feedback is appreciated - thank you!

I initially proposed that to one of the mechanics working on the vehicle; however, he insisted on cleaning the heater core first, as he prefers not to replace components unnecessarily. Well, it is completed now.

I have resolved the issue. Despite purging both heater matrices of the Vito and refilling the coolant using a vacuum pump system for £120, the issue persists. I changed the water pump, which appeared to resolve the issue. I appreciate everyone's assistance.

It is the 2.1 Merc engine. Automated.

I considered the possibility of an airlock; however, the coolant level has consistently remained adequate, and there have been no recent alterations that would precipitate an airlock, unless it is feasible for one to occur spontaneously. Nonetheless, I will conduct a comprehensive coolant flush to eliminate any airlock; I am uncertain about the complexity of the procedure, so it is prudent to entrust it to professionals. I will thereafter provide a report here.

Greetings, everyone! I am experiencing a perplexing problem with my 2018 Mercedes Vito Minibus W447. I have been experiencing random fluctuations in the temperature gauge. This weekend, I undertook an extensive 15-hour drive, and here are my observations. Temperature decline: When travelling at a constant pace of 70 mph or maintaining a consistent RPM, the temperature gauge will remain at the standard 90 degrees. However, when I attempt to activate the heater, it emits frigid air. Upon momentarily releasing the throttle or shifting into neutral on downhill gradients, the heater resumes heating, while the temperature gauge descends to just over 40 degrees and fluctuates between 40 and 80 degrees for approximately one minute. There will be a little fluctuation before stabilising around 80 degrees and ultimately reaching 90 degrees when I resume normal driving. The heater will remain warm for around 15 minutes, sufficient to provide warmth once more. The temperature rises: When travelling at a steady motorway pace (50-70 mph), the temperature gauge remains normal at 90 degrees; however, upon applying additional power, such as during overtaking or ascending a hill, the gauge exceeds 90 degrees. I would hear the fan activate. The amount of power applied, the incline of the slope, and the duration of power application will influence whether the temperature reaches 120 degrees or above. However, it will descend rapidly when I reduce the throttle. When the temperature exceeded 120 degrees on the freeway, I had a complete loss of throttle response; regardless of my actions with the throttle, the van did not respond and began to decelerate. I had to stop on the hard shoulder for a few seconds, and it was only after the temperature approached 90 degrees that I regained throttle control. I have replaced one thermostat, but it did not yield any improvement. I possess a Xentry device, and no fault codes are displayed. I lack mechanical expertise, hence I am unaware of what to observe. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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I will locate the boost solenoid; with the engine idling, place your hand on it. If it is functioning, you will sense a pulsing sensation, accompanied by a continuous ticking or clicking sound if operating correctly.

Electronic diverter valves, if not sealing correctly, may cause your issue without generating error messages. When utilising ista, you can instruct them to open and close. Should this not be the case, eliminate them and examine the seals.

Upon reviewing the logs and acknowledging your assertion of no hoover or boost leaks, the most probable causes are as follows: Boost control solenoid 2) Damaged diaphragm within diverter valve