Blu_Ray_UK2007

What do you mean by need a second earth? Where should the secondary earth wire be connected to the bulb holder and the vehicle? Could you provide diagrams or explain the procedure? Thank you for your response!

The previously burnt bulb exhibits blackened or charred pins beneath. I have cleaned it by scraping lightly, and today I will sand it down and re-prime it if the contact remains inadequate. Where is the earth pin for the backlight or tail light located in the trunk, or where is the screw that connects all earth wires to the car body from the trunk? I attempted to locate it online, but only instructions for repairing the cables connecting the car to the trunk are available if the wire is damaged. Thank you for your remark!

Error codes are displayed in the photograph:

Salutations, Two days ago, I had an unusual error: all side markers (front, side, and rear) flash rapidly when I activate the left or right side markers. However, when the hazard lights are engaged, the blinking speed is normal. Bimmerlink indicates various problems, however all bulbs are functioning properly. This morning, I started the car, and all systems functioned normally, including the side markers. However, after driving for over two hours and parking the vehicle at home, the problem reoccurred after one hour of inactivity, and the blinking speed of the markers increased once more. I possess a 2008 BMW E90 Pre-ICI from Germany. I suspect that a grounding connection may be corroded or damaged, as it has been raining for an entire week, perhaps allowing water to into the trunk. The day prior, I encountered issues with the markers; one bulb for the trunk stripes was defective (blackened and burnt). I changed it and observed a single drop of water on the burned bulb. No corrosion was detected in the light bracket, nor was there any visible evidence of water. What should be the next focus? I believe the Footwell module is not defective, as it functioned for over two hours today without any issues. Do you believe the wires beneath the "harmonica" protection attached to the trunk are compromised, or is there corrosion (water damage) affecting the grounding within the boot? Where should I inspect for grounding connections to the vehicle in the boot? Any assistance is appreciated, as I am uncertain where to proceed next, given that all lights are functional.

It is encouraging to hear. Did you also need to detach the DEF DPF hardware and the sensor located in the exhaust catalyst?

I am apprehensive about acquiring music from unfamiliar internet platforms or those lacking endorsements from reputable individuals, mostly due to the elevated costs and associated hazards. Has anyone experienced a favourable outcome purchasing music from these websites? I seek feedback from those who have effectively utilised them, as I am apprehensive of investing a substantial sum in tunes, only to incur additional costs for installation and possible dealer consultations, particularly considering the engine's considerable value. I would like to enquire whether anyone has utilised the ECU Clone service available on eBay or through third parties. I possess an extended warranty until 2027, and I am considering purchasing an ECU and cloning it for convenient interchangeability. This appears to need considerable effort merely to opt out of DEF.

I sincerely want to receive useful guidance and locations where I can completely eliminate DEF.

Greetings to everybody, I am enquiring about cost-effective methods to remove or deactivate the Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) or Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) system on a 2018 Range Rover HSE TD6, while minimising detection risk and ensuring compliance with annual inspections, taking into account potential warranty implications that will expire in approximately two years. I am contemplating registering my vehicle, which has 80,000 miles, in a state that does not mandate annual inspections, as this seems more aligned with American values than those of New York. I aim to prevent incurring several months' worth of income in the future while also avoiding substantial modification fees, primarily related to labour costs. Based on my research, the removal of DEF offers benefits such as enhanced MPG and overall performance, which would be advantageous in my situation. I desire a straightforward OBDII plugin solution similar to those utilised for GM automobiles with AFM DFM disablers. I wish to maintain my Range for as long as possible, as I purchased it at a period of inflation and it does not possess the intrinsic value of gold. I aim to endure with it for as long as I can.

Prudent insights from "Bright'n'Shiny-Robert"

I personally initiated the synchronisation of my vehicle using the infotainment screen.

It is a 25-year-old vehicle, so please take care of it. What is the mileage?

The area around the turbo is quite greasy; strangely, I have a B47 to replace this week after it failed due to blown turbo seals and then operated on its own oil until the sump was depleted, resulting in engine seizure. Ideally, you should remove the intercooler to assess the quantity of oil that is expelled; some oil is expected, but an excessive amount indicates a potential issue. Given the excessive oil consumption over a limited distance, I would suspect a ring or bore problem, since a turbo using that much oil would likely result in engine run-on.

What is the total mileage, and has anybody removed the boost pipes to assess the oil accumulation within?

Do you have a local independent Mercedes specialist? Enquire if they can do a pre-purchase inspection on short notice. The challenge may lie in obtaining the seller's consent for this. The abundance of C63s available for purchase works to your advantage. Identifying a suitable one is really challenging. Best of luck

A fault code scan, in addition to the aforementioned, is the first need.

Thank you. I considered restoring the drained fluid and then replacing the filter and cleaning after the operation. However, I considered it prudent to eliminate the existing sludge from the pan first to prevent its circulation or re-entrance. I must simultaneously replace the filter.

I also considered it, but I fail to see why the sludge would not have settled in the pan after the previous operation. If it were to get stuck, it would have done so anyway.

Greetings everyone, The gearbox filter and related components came today, bringing me closer to cleansing the fluid. Due to the car's inactivity for one to two weeks, the gearbox fluid has depleted to the extent of indicating an excess or overfill condition. Why not drain it now to extract the most of the fluid (I would just replace what is removed) instead of running it to warm it up before to the drain, which would provide a lesser amount? reflections

I fully concur; one must be much more vigilant when operating the CX60, since I often disable several features upon entering the vehicle. My wife has a ten-year-old Mazda 3, which is enjoyable to drive devoid of excessive safety features. Nevertheless, I believe the CX-60 offers a very pleasant experience for extended excursions.

What about thickness ? These are too thick.

Occasionally, it is due to previous owners altering the callipers. Original components from Mercedes will not be compatible.

The brake light switch seems to be functioning well, since the brake lights are operating properly.

The shift lock release is inoperative.

Greetings, everyone. I am experiencing an issue with a locked automatic shifter. The vehicle is immobilised in park, and the shift lock release is inoperative. Captiva 2017. All suggestions are welcome.

Notably, the problem only manifests while the Torque application is active; it does not occur when no applications are running. Therefore, it seems that the issue is not with the adapter itself, but rather with the Torque app causing some disruption.