Blu_Ray_UK2007

I sincerely want to receive useful guidance and locations where I can completely eliminate DEF.

Greetings to everybody, I am enquiring about cost-effective methods to remove or deactivate the Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) or Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) system on a 2018 Range Rover HSE TD6, while minimising detection risk and ensuring compliance with annual inspections, taking into account potential warranty implications that will expire in approximately two years. I am contemplating registering my vehicle, which has 80,000 miles, in a state that does not mandate annual inspections, as this seems more aligned with American values than those of New York. I aim to prevent incurring several months' worth of income in the future while also avoiding substantial modification fees, primarily related to labour costs. Based on my research, the removal of DEF offers benefits such as enhanced MPG and overall performance, which would be advantageous in my situation. I desire a straightforward OBDII plugin solution similar to those utilised for GM automobiles with AFM DFM disablers. I wish to maintain my Range for as long as possible, as I purchased it at a period of inflation and it does not possess the intrinsic value of gold. I aim to endure with it for as long as I can.

Prudent insights from "Bright'n'Shiny-Robert"

I personally initiated the synchronisation of my vehicle using the infotainment screen.

It is a 25-year-old vehicle, so please take care of it. What is the mileage?

The area around the turbo is quite greasy; strangely, I have a B47 to replace this week after it failed due to blown turbo seals and then operated on its own oil until the sump was depleted, resulting in engine seizure. Ideally, you should remove the intercooler to assess the quantity of oil that is expelled; some oil is expected, but an excessive amount indicates a potential issue. Given the excessive oil consumption over a limited distance, I would suspect a ring or bore problem, since a turbo using that much oil would likely result in engine run-on.

What is the total mileage, and has anybody removed the boost pipes to assess the oil accumulation within?

Do you have a local independent Mercedes specialist? Enquire if they can do a pre-purchase inspection on short notice. The challenge may lie in obtaining the seller's consent for this. The abundance of C63s available for purchase works to your advantage. Identifying a suitable one is really challenging. Best of luck

A fault code scan, in addition to the aforementioned, is the first need.

Thank you. I considered restoring the drained fluid and then replacing the filter and cleaning after the operation. However, I considered it prudent to eliminate the existing sludge from the pan first to prevent its circulation or re-entrance. I must simultaneously replace the filter.

I also considered it, but I fail to see why the sludge would not have settled in the pan after the previous operation. If it were to get stuck, it would have done so anyway.

Greetings everyone, The gearbox filter and related components came today, bringing me closer to cleansing the fluid. Due to the car's inactivity for one to two weeks, the gearbox fluid has depleted to the extent of indicating an excess or overfill condition. Why not drain it now to extract the most of the fluid (I would just replace what is removed) instead of running it to warm it up before to the drain, which would provide a lesser amount? reflections

I fully concur; one must be much more vigilant when operating the CX60, since I often disable several features upon entering the vehicle. My wife has a ten-year-old Mazda 3, which is enjoyable to drive devoid of excessive safety features. Nevertheless, I believe the CX-60 offers a very pleasant experience for extended excursions.

What about thickness ? These are too thick.

Occasionally, it is due to previous owners altering the callipers. Original components from Mercedes will not be compatible.

The brake light switch seems to be functioning well, since the brake lights are operating properly.

The shift lock release is inoperative.

Greetings, everyone. I am experiencing an issue with a locked automatic shifter. The vehicle is immobilised in park, and the shift lock release is inoperative. Captiva 2017. All suggestions are welcome.

Notably, the problem only manifests while the Torque application is active; it does not occur when no applications are running. Therefore, it seems that the issue is not with the adapter itself, but rather with the Torque app causing some disruption.

I have purchased an alternative from Amazon and will observe whether it performs differently.

Greetings everyone, Connecting or leaving my ODB2 reader (generic Bluetooth adapter) results in an error/warning on the dashboard stating "Mercedes Me services limited." It seems to create no more problems; nonetheless, I am curious about the reason for this occurrence, since I want to maintain the connection to an application I own (the application just reads, without writing). In previous vehicles, I have been able to maintain a connection without any consequences. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.

Organised. I may have first added an excessive amount of oil, causing the sensor to register a high reading. Consequently, I removed what may have been an excessive quantity, resulting in a low level on the dipstick; nonetheless, the iDrive system still displayed an excess amount. There is a delay in the iDrive synchronisation. I used the dipstick measurement and added additional fluid till it indicated an appropriate level. After driving for thirty minutes, the iDrive system is functioning properly presently.

Thank you, friend.

I added a minimum of 6 litres and additional quantity. The dipstick indicated a near-full level. Upon driving, the iDrive system showed an excess of oil; thus, I extracted some oil, bringing the level to normal. However, after a brief drive, the level returned to maximum, but the dipstick displayed no oil. I parked and checked the dipstick this morning; it was at the minimum mark. I added around 0.75 litres, and it is now above the minimum line, about one-third of the way between the minimum and maximum levels on the dipstick. In this circumstance, I rely on the dipstick; should I add a little extra fluid? the dipstick is firmly and securely pressed down

Affirmative. Adjacent to the rear passenger door of the vehicle, there exists an aperture. I opened the flap, unscrewed the cap, and poured the oil in, which entered without any complications.