Blu_Ray_UK2007

Seems promising; I'll report back next week with the results. The GX460 was a nightmare to drive, and I rarely retain vehicles for more than a few years, so I never had to worry about the GX460 lasting 300,000 miles.

Greetings everyone! I am new to Mazda and recently got receipt of a brand new 26 CX-90 Premium Sport. Three vehicles were on my radar: the Jeep Grand Cherokee, the Audi Q7, and the Honda Trailsport/Pilot. They were completely outclassed by the Mazda in every way: handling, power, features, and appearance. Also, I had the opportunity to borrow this car for a 500-mile drive on my recent holiday and I absolutely loved it. Along with the favourable lease price and conditions, that was the deciding factor. I am really pleased with my purchase of a Machine Grey Prem Sport. So, here's what went down: I felt a lot of vibration and the trip was overall bumpy. Two days after returning it to the dealership, I discovered that three of the tires were faulty! I will be replacing the set of Toyotas next week. Until then, I am borrowing a gorgeous CX-90 Prem Plus in rhodium. My car is in perfect working order and I can't wait to get it back. Although I am aware that these vehicles can be finicky, I would prefer to cope with a few problems rather than spend all my time fiddling with my automobile. Just so you know, I sold my 23 Lexus GX460 since it was a boring SUV. Anticipating feedback from this community. Best regards.

I am a mechanic, so I will just add some general advice regarding repossessed vehicles. Always review the service history carefully. Run a diagnostic scan for stored fault codes. Inspect suspension components and clutch wear. Check for signs of neglected servicing. A 14 day inspection period is actually more generous than what many independent sellers provide. If the funds are genuinely held in a segregated account until approval, that does reduce financial risk significantly. Just make sure you use that inspection time properly!

The longevity of servicing has been exemplary for the makers...

Although my car is now mechanically in optimal condition, the money expenditure was irrational (several thousand pounds). I possess an automobile that is relatively well-maintained (considering its 200,000 kilometres) and appears unlikely to malfunction in the near future. Additionally, being Euro 5, it is significantly easier to maintain than a Euro 6 vehicle. Acquiring a newer vehicle in such excellent technical condition would either necessitate 1) purchasing a new automobile or 2) experiencing extraordinary fortune in the used car market. This amount far exceeds the car's value, and insurance companies will not recognise it as having any worth in the event of a claim. Nonetheless, it operates exceptionally well.

The sump is remarkably clean immediately following its removal, considering it has accumulated over 200,000 kilometres. The upper section appeared pristine, devoid of tarnish or muck.

Upon evaluating other alternatives, I opted for lunacy. I invested money in an engine refurbishment for my 210,000-mile F31 320D, including a new timing chain, oil pump service with sump removal, walnut blasting, cam cover replacement, water system overhaul (pump, thermostat, various hoses, tank, radiator), pulleys, DPF flex pipe and an additional ZF gearbox service. Several discoveries: A regimen of consistent and proactive oil changes has yielded benefits. The oil pump remains in excellent shape and was not replaced; the turbo is in wonderful condition, and the engine inside is exceptionally clean. The garage that has serviced it for me over the last years has evidently performed the task correctly. Nonetheless, the maximum lifespan for the timing chain is 210,000 miles. The previous one was deteriorated, exhibiting greater wear laterally than longitudinally, which poses a greater risk of unexpected snagging and snapping; hence, it was unequivocally time for a replacement. The N47 has performed admirably. The water system required replacement, however the radiator itself was not particularly problematic (it was replaced anyway for assurance). An earlier EGR replacement 100,000 miles ago (to preempt the recall not being conducted on older vehicles), extensive long-distance travel, and the avoidance of low-quality fuel have led to negligible carbon accumulation over the past 100,000 miles (refer to the photographs below). The walnut blast was unnecessary, although I opted to have it performed while I was there. The outcome: it is currently a 215,000-mile vehicle, operating with remarkable smoothness.

Thank you for your response. It is a pre-owned vehicle. I am attempting to ascertain whether others have experienced these issues prior to contacting Kia, as I wish to save an unnecessary fee for diagnostics only to be informed that "they all do that."

This is my inaugural electric vehicle, and I am acclimating to the distinctions from my previous Focus, which I cherished immensely. One of the initial shortcomings I observed during the trip home after purchasing it was that while using the cruise control, the car exhibited a shake on the road. Initially, I believed the automobile was being affected by the wind, since I sensed it shifting beneath me and the steering wheel oscillating laterally. Upon braking and disengaging the cruise control, the shimmying ceased. After several excursions, I learnt that it occurred solely when HDA was operational. It appears to be perpetually overcompensating in an effort to maintain its lane position. Do they all engage in this behaviour? A memorable experience with HDA occurred when navigating roadworks on the M3, with the cruise control set to 50, when the vehicle unexpectedly accelerated. I looked at the HUD and observed the speed limit indicator indicating 70, despite the absence of any road signs. During the return journey, the variable speed limit on the M25 indicated 50, although the system saw it as 80 and accelerated accordingly. What the heck! The HDA deactivates each time cruise control is engaged unless I navigate the options to disable it permanently, if that is possible.

I believe I have discerned my issue. It appears that the actuators previously failed to fully elevate the hinges upon activation, instead forcing the hinges into the bonnet, resulting in an indentation that rendered the screws on the hinges uneven. I will remove the bonnet when I have the opportunity to verify.

Greetings, thank you. However, I have disconnected and deleted those components, and it remains elevated.

Hello everyone, I am seeking advise on this matter. I possess a 2019 W177 that was involved in a minor accident, resulting in the malfunction of the bonnet actuators; thus, I am replacing the hinges with fresh new ones from Mercedes. Despite several hours of effort, I still unable to get a flush fit for the bonnet, which sits excessively high at the rear. Has anyone encountered this or a similar situation previously? Assistance would be valued.

During the next service appointment with the dealer, enquire whether they are prepared to update all necessary firmware on the vehicle free of charge, as policies may vary among dealers. If unsuccessful, document the issue as a warranty claim; the dealer would likely upgrade the firmware on the pertinent ECU as an initial measure.

I have heard extensive praise about WordSmith; I eagerly anticipate delivering it to him.

I will be utilising @WordSmith in the near future for a comprehensive engine refresh, and I am eagerly anticipating it. I am attempting to acquire knowledge regarding the engine components of the Mini, as my activities primarily involve reading and seeing films related to my car model.

Greetings. I am a novice in mini ownership and I thoroughly enjoy it. Could somebody provide photos depicting the names and locations of all the sensors on my mini, please? Thank you.

Indeed, I have not engaged with it since its inception.

Upon pressing the button after initially disengaging, the parking brake activates when I halt and deactivates upon accelerating; I possess a 2022 model. Am I overlooking something with the second generation?

I need a replacement for the rear tires on my 600SL. I have Continental tires on the front. I am unable to locate any Continentals for sale in the UK that are of the appropriate size. Is it OK to pair two Michelin or Pirelli tires on the rear, or must I replace the front tires with the same brand as those on the back?

Eliminate Connect from the set and calculate the appropriate fee manually. Utilize the OVO application to recharge the vehicle.

P0101FA - The air mass meter 1 is malfunctioning.

I am experiencing difficulties with P0101FA on a Mercedes Benz W213. I have substituted the mass airflow meter and air filter, and I have calibrated the HFM data using Icarsoft v2.0. The vehicle enters a limp state or has reduced power after reaching 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. The limp mode and check engine light unexpectedly disappeared for around three weeks. I have just returned. I observed that when re-adapting the MAF (Hfm drift values xxxxx), the present correction values are all 0%. Is this the correct form? I recall they were all around 10 years old (when there was no limp/CEL). Should the correction values be set to 0% with a functioning MAF? Is there anybody else who had the same problem?

Thank you. That is really helpful. I believed that the plastic component for the roller bling needed to be removed. However, while examining the rear of the carpet trim where the clips are located, I regrettably found that I cannot use a tool to mitigate the danger of damaging the clips.