Blu_Ray_UK2007

In the end, what really was the problem? This seems like the perfect accompaniment to what I'm eating.

Both of these are sound recommendations. It goes without saying that I won't be handling things on my own, but it is helpful to have an idea of what the issue may be when discussing it with the garage. I am going to guess that "resetting the throttle" is not a task that I am responsible for either!

630i gasoline model with the N52 engine - Does anyone have any ideas about the following intermittent problem? There is a short drop in power output whenever the engine is running, although this only happens very seldom. The issue manifests itself randomly, yet it consistently takes place at the following time. When I reach an intersection after a period of regular driving at a constant or varied pace, I come to a complete stop or slow down. When it is safe to do so, I will attempt to quicken my pace. The automobile first reacts properly (perhaps for less than a second), but then it abruptly stops responding at all. This just continues for a fraction of a second until the power is restored and everything goes back to how it was before. I have no clue if it is an issue with the engine (which is quite likely), or whether it has anything to do with the gearbox (such as a hasty choice to change gears) - Do you have any ideas?

Measuring a pop rivet after it has been set presents challenges. The individual has the ability to determine the dimensions of the aperture by using a cautious approach to extract the preexisting rivet by drilling.

I have had AA coverage from my financial institution, and I have consistently used this service for a diverse range of vintage vehicles over the years. Notably, the AA offers the occasional technician who endeavors to rectify automotive issues before resorting to vehicle retrieval. There are no discernible problems or concerns.

Well done! One of my ideal vacations would be driving the Cabot Trail and exploring the Canadian Maritimes. And what better vehicle to go on the road than a Range Rover. Well, a forum is a fantastic concept overall. I really like the Rover P6 series and want to own one someday. Despite my appreciation for Land Rovers, vintage Toyota Land Cruiser 4x4s have always had a stronger allure for me.

Sorry it wasn't more helpful, but no worries. Where are we at this time?

If only the traffic reports were up-to-date and reliable! It never fails to surprise me how frequently the VMS on the M4 between London and Bristol displays incorrect messages or out-of-date information. The installation of each sign might cost upwards of £100,000, however the data they display is frequently inaccurate. The best illustration of this is a late-night flight returning from London last year. VMS displayed 'SLOW 50mph' (perhaps a dozen signs) from just before Reading to just past Swindon. At first the traffic complied, but as it was clear there was no cause, we all started moving faster again. After I lodged a formal complaint with the Highways Agency, a representative said that a prior incident had necessitated the placement of the warnings until a HATO could drive the whole road and verify that it was clear per 'Health and Safety' policy. For a good long while, no HATOs were scheduled to operate along the route. Having no information at all is better than having bad information.

Here are some broad reflections on the preceding pages of this topic. Audio-20 is far more sluggish than COMAND. Before 2008, E-class vehicles were not equipped with the bigger screen or CarPlay/Android Auto compatibility for the Audio-20 (NTG5*2). Consequently, the digital cockpit was not available. Upgrades from Audio-20 NTG5*2 to COMAND NTG5.5 have been common, however they remove the speed restriction indicator that the Audio-20 had. There are significant differences in DAB operation between NTG5*2 and NTG5.5, which should be taken into account during retrofitting.

Forum sponsoring location: M3 junction 3, 15 minutes from Heathrow; contact [email protected].

That is, in fact, the plan: to disable the unfortunate vehicle in a manner that is only partially permanent so that it can pass the same tests again within a period of six weeks. Then you need to restore everything to its factory settings. This beautiful, low-mileage specimen of a beast is not something I would ever consider changing in any way!

Already having conversations with MSL due to the fact that they are a Weistec dealer in the UK. To my surprise, I discovered a state executive order from California that type-approved the M157 Tune product on the grounds that it would not worsen the emissions levels. In point of fact, for some unexplained reason, those figures seem to be better; but, I am not certain that I am interpreting it right. For those of you who are more technically oriented, here is the document in PDF format!

As a result of the termination of long-standing testing exemptions for personal car imports (as opposed to the commercial import of cars for sale), the current procedure requires that the vehicle first be tested at a recognized testing center in the United Kingdom for emissions and noise against the latest European standards. After that, the vehicle must be submitted, along with some paperwork from the Hong Kong government, to the local equivalent of the Environment Agency. Only after that can the vehicle be loaded onto a ship. When it arrives in Hong Kong, it has to travel to a government facility to undergo the same tests again so that they can authenticate what the UK tester wrote up in the export documentation. If the results don't match, it has to be sent back to Southampton on the next available ship. Because of this, the detune will need to be quite permanent in order to guarantee that it can be performed at regular intervals of six weeks.

I just moved to Hong Kong and need to bring my CLS63S AMG Shooting Brake with me since the now-extinct body form and the outstanding 5.5-liter V8 M157 engine are both too uncommon to simply sell and leave behind. Due to the fact that this was my own vehicle in the United Kingdom, up until a month ago, it had the potential to be exempt from complying with the most recent emissions requirements (HK is presently testing to Euro 6C), but the local authorities have since revoked this exemption without providing any prior notice. In order for the M157 to conform to the more stricter Euro 6C NOx regulations, I will need to discover a means to detune the vehicle, despite the fact that it already satisfies the requirements of the original Euro 6 emissions standard. Obviously, I am aware that this will have an effect on both the performance and the drivability of the vehicle, but I am certain that we will be able to get over that obstacle once the vehicle is in this location.

My flat roof is deteriorating. GRP-finished goods. No redress was available since the original constructor fell through. We've had many people examine it in detail (some of whom we know, including a few builders we've employed in the past and the ones who installed the glass), and the general view is that the GRP has likely cracked even if nothing is immediately obvious. If so, it has to be replaced or at the at least, re-covered. I'm curious about the benefits and drawbacks, especially from experts like @Darrell. everything seems that the only option is to tear everything apart, re-board everything, then finish it with either felt or rubber (EPDM?) Alternately, sand down what is already there and paint over it with Triflex. Finish with lead flashing in any scenario.

It would seem that your battery has run out of juice. A depleted battery will eventually fail due to this. And the answer is that it will do so even when disconnected from an external source or battery. Because of the low voltage that is being supplied, the coil will not produce a strong spark, making it difficult to start the vehicle. In the event that it is electronic, there will most likely not be any spark at all. Investing in a new battery after it has been used for six years is a smart idea.

I've gone through the process of buying and replacing many bicycle helmets. Only three simple actions are required. Is it the minimum standard mandated by law? Does it have a good fit? 3. Is it within my budget? Shoei seemed overly rounded and broad for my feet. The Arai's were a good fit, but the cushioning was excessively thick. My preference is for AGVs since I am not one to skimp on quality. I was in a major collision; I don't think I'd be here to express my thoughts if I'd been wearing a cheap helmet at the time.

Hi everyone.My car's engine started to knock about two months ago.The car engine is now being put back together.The road bearing for cylinder 3 is gone.The engine journal has marks on it.a lot of metal rods Took the engine apart.Block is scraped and drilled again.new oil pump, new oil cooler, new timing chain, new seals, etc.People told me to buy a used engine, but I didn't want to take the chance.These guys look like they're doing a good job. A few of them have worked for BMW in the past, so they know what they are doing. I'll let you know when the work is done.Thanks to everyone who replied to the last post.

When I have some uncertainties about a subject, I trust my buddy "Google," and he occasionally protects me from doing something I would regret later. I googled the company's name and discovered some positive comments about Enviosec group, now it's up to you to decide whether or not to continue working with them, perhaps someone on the platform has actually worked with them and can corroborate that everything went smoothly. Cheers

This is becoming a recurring topic among forum posters, so I've written this to avoid having to repeat myself! What should I do if my BMW's dashboard problem light does not turn off? If you are unable to resolve the issue, a diagnostic scan is the solution. The engine light has returned, and I've just recently had the vehicle serviced?! To effectively understand the codes, an OBD2 scan (or OBD 1 for pre-1995 vehicles) is required. My automobile isn't operating properly, and I'm stumped as to what the issue may be. How should I proceed? Request a diagnostic scan from a reputable local garage. Most will have the capability of scanning the great majority of BMWs. The cost should range from £25 to £40, depending on location and other considerations. Get a printout (if possible) or a handwritten note of the precise problem codes sent by the ECU and put them here. It makes remotely assisting you much simpler... I'm not sure...is it worthwhile to have one of these OBD diagnostic scans? My vehicle only runs poorly internally?! Yes, indeed! The ECU saves fault codes when they are reported by different components on the vehicle during operation. Even if your issue is intermittent, there is a significant probability that the ECU recorded an error code throughout the fault period, which may save you a lot of time and money. To summarise, modern BMWs feature more sensors and computerised reporting systems, increasing the chance of a defect being detected. With somewhat older vehicles...it is still a BMW, and as such, it is intelligent by nature! The trouble codes may be an excellent guide to resolving any issues with your vehicle. Examples// A malfunctioning ABS sensor that causes an ABS warning light to illuminate on your dashboard will notify the ECU, with many versions actually notifying the computer which sensor (which wheel) is at fault. Your automobile is guzzling (expensive) petrol like there's no tomorrow. You're quite sure it wasn't always this horrible!! What could it possibly be? There is a strong likelihood that the Lambda sensor(s) (also known as the O2 sensor(s)) are to blame. This will be recorded as a defect in the ECU and will confirm whether that is the issue. This list will be expanded as time allows!