Blu_Ray_UK2007

Based on my experience with my other mini, I know that the pump isn't the problem. After reviewing the scan tool's data, I've narrowed it down to one issue: the fuel rail pressure is only 1.3 mpa, while it's 5.2 mpa on my other mini. My only remaining guess is that the fuel rail pressure sensor is giving a false reading and preventing the engine from starting.

They were all removed from a running vehicle, and the sensors that were in there were likewise tested on the running vehicle and found to be in working order.

Amazon.com

ey there! I just acquired a 2007 R56 Cooper S. The test drive was great, however the seller wanted it gone fast because he was going on a six-month work trip (which I verified). Any advice? We drove out after agreeing on a price—which was ridiculously low—but the vehicle suddenly stopped working on me after just 4.6 miles.I am an old-school mechanic who is familiar with carbs and distributors, so I thought this would be easy. However, it ran out of fuel when I was on a busy road, and I tried to start it until the battery died. Now, two weeks later, I have bought a second-running R56 Chevy to try to fix it. It starts up and runs smoothly, but that's about it. Following is a rundown of everything I've done thus far; I've swapped out all the parts for runners and it still operates, however a quick Google search revealed that the HPFP change was unsuccessful. The reader displays 27ce codes. Revised hpfp Revised lpfp to Vanos solenoid replaced Replaced the camera's sensor Modified maf sensors I used the setting tool to verify the timing, and it was perfect. During priming and cranking, 12v at LPFP Ignite all four spark plugs Has the sensation of exhaust pressure when turning the crank Cold compression test results show 155 to 166 psi. I use the easy start method, however it only moistens the plugs. Both horsepower and torque gages show fuel rail pressures of 1.3 mpa on the reader and 5.1 mpa on the runner. The only sensors I haven't switched out yet are the ones for fuel rail pressure and crank, and now I don't know what to do. Who can provide me a hand?

The executive bonuses are also very good.

Much obliged. I just updated my first bimmercode, which allowed my TV to function while driving. It's really easy to use.

My home is in Wales, yet I'm Scottish. I found this old obe with only 53,000 miles on it, and it's in almost mint condition. I've always owned a volvis, so it was time for a change.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=timing+chain&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X0fefcda91f46e4baa8d44588828dbadf&subId2=15

This is just one more reason why you shouldn't use the start-stop feature on these engines; it could be related to the chain.

Please tell me the signs that prompted you to check the vehicle.

😊

My PCP rifle, which I use when there are rats around, would be perfect for posting if I didn't fear being banned 😂

It seems like there was a temporary canbus problem that prevented the startup checks from reading your turn signal. After that, it correctly read the system the following time you switched it on.

You can see the oil leaking from the engine's sump and central area.

Is it typical for these engines to not produce any visible signs of wear and tear, such as a milky cap, white smoke, etc., unless the engine is run in cold weather? Additionally, I've read that a water pump leak may cause the coolant to become black and cause coolant loss, even if the leak is just a hairline.

Hello, I'm new to this site and I have an e220cdi w212 facelift om651. My vehicle is leaking oil from the bottom and the coolant is a watery brown colour. The coolant also disappears every couple hundred miles. I've run diagnostics, but no errors have shown up. Does anybody have any ideas what may be wrong with my car?

It finally dried out in the past few days, which is a relief because I had a similar issue on one side. According to some online research, the trick was to put the little desiccant bags that come with certain electronics inside the electronics bit (where they wouldn't be seen from the outside). Where did you find R231 ILS headlights that are in good working condition and priced at £350? I couldn't find any sets for less than £1200.

Seems promising; I'll report back next week with the results. The GX460 was a nightmare to drive, and I rarely retain vehicles for more than a few years, so I never had to worry about the GX460 lasting 300,000 miles.

Greetings everyone! I am new to Mazda and recently got receipt of a brand new 26 CX-90 Premium Sport. Three vehicles were on my radar: the Jeep Grand Cherokee, the Audi Q7, and the Honda Trailsport/Pilot. They were completely outclassed by the Mazda in every way: handling, power, features, and appearance. Also, I had the opportunity to borrow this car for a 500-mile drive on my recent holiday and I absolutely loved it. Along with the favourable lease price and conditions, that was the deciding factor. I am really pleased with my purchase of a Machine Grey Prem Sport. So, here's what went down: I felt a lot of vibration and the trip was overall bumpy. Two days after returning it to the dealership, I discovered that three of the tires were faulty! I will be replacing the set of Toyotas next week. Until then, I am borrowing a gorgeous CX-90 Prem Plus in rhodium. My car is in perfect working order and I can't wait to get it back. Although I am aware that these vehicles can be finicky, I would prefer to cope with a few problems rather than spend all my time fiddling with my automobile. Just so you know, I sold my 23 Lexus GX460 since it was a boring SUV. Anticipating feedback from this community. Best regards.

I am a mechanic, so I will just add some general advice regarding repossessed vehicles. Always review the service history carefully. Run a diagnostic scan for stored fault codes. Inspect suspension components and clutch wear. Check for signs of neglected servicing. A 14 day inspection period is actually more generous than what many independent sellers provide. If the funds are genuinely held in a segregated account until approval, that does reduce financial risk significantly. Just make sure you use that inspection time properly!

The longevity of servicing has been exemplary for the makers...

Although my car is now mechanically in optimal condition, the money expenditure was irrational (several thousand pounds). I possess an automobile that is relatively well-maintained (considering its 200,000 kilometres) and appears unlikely to malfunction in the near future. Additionally, being Euro 5, it is significantly easier to maintain than a Euro 6 vehicle. Acquiring a newer vehicle in such excellent technical condition would either necessitate 1) purchasing a new automobile or 2) experiencing extraordinary fortune in the used car market. This amount far exceeds the car's value, and insurance companies will not recognise it as having any worth in the event of a claim. Nonetheless, it operates exceptionally well.

The sump is remarkably clean immediately following its removal, considering it has accumulated over 200,000 kilometres. The upper section appeared pristine, devoid of tarnish or muck.