Blu_Ray_UK2007

Thank you for your response. It is a pre-owned vehicle. I am attempting to ascertain whether others have experienced these issues prior to contacting Kia, as I wish to save an unnecessary fee for diagnostics only to be informed that "they all do that."

This is my inaugural electric vehicle, and I am acclimating to the distinctions from my previous Focus, which I cherished immensely. One of the initial shortcomings I observed during the trip home after purchasing it was that while using the cruise control, the car exhibited a shake on the road. Initially, I believed the automobile was being affected by the wind, since I sensed it shifting beneath me and the steering wheel oscillating laterally. Upon braking and disengaging the cruise control, the shimmying ceased. After several excursions, I learnt that it occurred solely when HDA was operational. It appears to be perpetually overcompensating in an effort to maintain its lane position. Do they all engage in this behaviour? A memorable experience with HDA occurred when navigating roadworks on the M3, with the cruise control set to 50, when the vehicle unexpectedly accelerated. I looked at the HUD and observed the speed limit indicator indicating 70, despite the absence of any road signs. During the return journey, the variable speed limit on the M25 indicated 50, although the system saw it as 80 and accelerated accordingly. What the heck! The HDA deactivates each time cruise control is engaged unless I navigate the options to disable it permanently, if that is possible.

I believe I have discerned my issue. It appears that the actuators previously failed to fully elevate the hinges upon activation, instead forcing the hinges into the bonnet, resulting in an indentation that rendered the screws on the hinges uneven. I will remove the bonnet when I have the opportunity to verify.

Greetings, thank you. However, I have disconnected and deleted those components, and it remains elevated.

Hello everyone, I am seeking advise on this matter. I possess a 2019 W177 that was involved in a minor accident, resulting in the malfunction of the bonnet actuators; thus, I am replacing the hinges with fresh new ones from Mercedes. Despite several hours of effort, I still unable to get a flush fit for the bonnet, which sits excessively high at the rear. Has anyone encountered this or a similar situation previously? Assistance would be valued.

During the next service appointment with the dealer, enquire whether they are prepared to update all necessary firmware on the vehicle free of charge, as policies may vary among dealers. If unsuccessful, document the issue as a warranty claim; the dealer would likely upgrade the firmware on the pertinent ECU as an initial measure.

I have heard extensive praise about WordSmith; I eagerly anticipate delivering it to him.

I will be utilising @WordSmith in the near future for a comprehensive engine refresh, and I am eagerly anticipating it. I am attempting to acquire knowledge regarding the engine components of the Mini, as my activities primarily involve reading and seeing films related to my car model.

Greetings. I am a novice in mini ownership and I thoroughly enjoy it. Could somebody provide photos depicting the names and locations of all the sensors on my mini, please? Thank you.

Indeed, I have not engaged with it since its inception.

Upon pressing the button after initially disengaging, the parking brake activates when I halt and deactivates upon accelerating; I possess a 2022 model. Am I overlooking something with the second generation?

I need a replacement for the rear tires on my 600SL. I have Continental tires on the front. I am unable to locate any Continentals for sale in the UK that are of the appropriate size. Is it OK to pair two Michelin or Pirelli tires on the rear, or must I replace the front tires with the same brand as those on the back?

Eliminate Connect from the set and calculate the appropriate fee manually. Utilize the OVO application to recharge the vehicle.

P0101FA - The air mass meter 1 is malfunctioning.

I am experiencing difficulties with P0101FA on a Mercedes Benz W213. I have substituted the mass airflow meter and air filter, and I have calibrated the HFM data using Icarsoft v2.0. The vehicle enters a limp state or has reduced power after reaching 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. The limp mode and check engine light unexpectedly disappeared for around three weeks. I have just returned. I observed that when re-adapting the MAF (Hfm drift values xxxxx), the present correction values are all 0%. Is this the correct form? I recall they were all around 10 years old (when there was no limp/CEL). Should the correction values be set to 0% with a functioning MAF? Is there anybody else who had the same problem?

Thank you. That is really helpful. I believed that the plastic component for the roller bling needed to be removed. However, while examining the rear of the carpet trim where the clips are located, I regrettably found that I cannot use a tool to mitigate the danger of damaging the clips.

Thank you! That is really helpful. It seems that the Keyless Go and 360-degree camera systems are present there.

Upon pressing the red region, it emits a squeaking sound, and when I strike it gently, the EPC activates. I am eager to discover what is concealed there and rectify the problem simultaneously.

My 2020 S205 has acquired an annoying squeak, which I have identified as originating from behind the N/S boot trim, located right behind the rear seat beneath the 3/4 panel window (circled in red). Applying pressure on it allows me to reproduce the squeak. Interestingly, when I park the vehicle with the brakes off and strike this place with my fist, the electronic handbrake engages. I assume that electronics or a kind of sensor are concealed inside. I am unable to determine how to detach the carpeted trim, since the clasp for the folding seat back obstructs my ability to remove the panel. I would really appreciate guidance or advice on the contents behind the panel and the procedure for its removal. A components diagram for the region would be beneficial.

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Revisited the site this morning! I meticulously completed all tasks as required. Springs oriented correctly, etc. On the ground, still emitting noises like the top mount bearings. 😩 Considering the purchase of OEM bearings for one more attempt.

Both parties are engaging in this behavior. I suspect that the bearing is not moving as easily as it ought to. Everything operated well prior to reinstallation of the struts; but, once subjected to load, the noise begins. The springs seemed to be properly positioned.

It seems like either the spring is attempting to engage the upper rubber shim or excessive pressure is being applied to the bearing during wheel rotation. Audible inside the vehicle and discernible at the top mount behind the hood. At this pace, I will revert to the conventional springs, but I am also concerned that the issue may persist thereafter.

Has anybody have difficulties putting H&R 35mm springs on their W212? Several months ago, I had them installed on my E350 CDI, and since I retrieved the vehicle, it has been producing a popping noise during certain turning maneuvers at low speeds. Only the gradual rotation speeds, without any additional noise from bumps, etc. The top mounts and bearings were replaced simultaneously. It is driving me to distraction! I have since removed them and substituted the rubber shims at both the bottom and top of the shock, as well as changed the Top Mount/Bearing with a new brand, nevertheless the same noise persists. This weekend, I replaced the shocks with new ones due to a blown shock and installed new 25mm lowering springs; nonetheless, the popping noise persists from the top section of the strut. Do you have any suggestions on the potential cause of this problem or where to begin? I like the aesthetic of the reduced configuration and prefer not to change to the regular height.

Numerous 'Pass through' ratchet sets are available, or one may use a ratchet spanner. However, purchasing an 18mm variant may result in seldom usage. I have been use this publicly accessible product for decades.