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I agree that the seat heating and cooling functions, in addition to the steering wheel warmer, need to be shown and operable from both the screen and the doors. It would be advantageous if the vehicle retained the driver's settings when powered off. I think the door switches quite cumbersome, and the visibility of the LED indicators when driving is inadequate. The remote temperature feature on the app disrupts all settings, necessitating a reset of the fan speed and air dispersion before to driving—unless I am overlooking something?

Activate it using the app before to entering the vehicle.

I reside in North London. I enquired about the compression test, and all responses indicated that it is unhelpful. Any garage capable of performing the test extensively.

I own a 2016 BMW with a B47 engine that is using excessive quantities of oil. No warning warnings are shown on the dashboard, and the vehicle operates well, save for a few instances of momentary jerking when idling at traffic lights and accelerating. There are no exhaust emissions. The oil usage started a year ago and progressively deteriorated over time. Presently achieving 60 miles per litre. I have observed that when removing the dipstick or oil cap after warming the engine, it emits smoke and a little oil mist. Having engaged with and visited many independent entities. It has been determined that there is no external leak; thus, combustion must be occurring. Some assert it is a turbo/DPF issue, while others contend it need a total engine rebuild. The engine operates normally. Opinions on the smoke from the dipstick vary; some consider it excessive, while others deem it average. Assistance and guidance are welcomed. Is the emission of smoke puffs typical? Are there any tests available in the UK to determine whether the engine pistons are failing?

Prudent choice There will never be a C63 that surpasses the 204!

https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic48346.html

My husband had this on his Range Rover upon its first acquisition. Resonated in a distinctly mechanical manner. He was instructed, on an uphill, to engage the handbrake and release the foot brake to allow the vehicle to stabilise, then shift into Park. Related to a pin. I will enquire with him.

Thank you for the counsel! I acknowledge that OEM BMW sensors exhibit greater reliability, and I will take that into account. Your reference to water concerns is intriguing. My issues manifested immediately after an automated vehicle wash, suggesting a potentially similar situation. I will maintain the thread with my findings.

Thank you for your recommendation! The problem manifested shortly after an automated vehicle wash, rather than directly after the sensor replacement. I seldom use automated vehicle washes, leading me to question if water may have induced a wiring problem or a sensor failure. I will verify the wiring to ensure all connections are secure and that there is no damage or water infiltration.

I appreciate your response! I have not yet reviewed the live data for each sensor, but I will do so at the earliest opportunity. I used the below components: • Wheel Bearing Kit: STARK, front axle, with an integrated ABS sensor and bolts. • ABS Sensor: KAMOKA brand.

Greetings to everybody, I own a BMW 4 Series F32 (420d M Sport) and am now seeing the following fault alerts on the dashboard: 1. Driving stabilisation. Operate the vehicle at a reasonable speed. Failure of the Flat Tyre Monitor (RPA). 3. Parking Assistance. Position yourself. These problems emerged immediately after an automated vehicle wash, an infrequent occurrence for me. I used a BMW OBD tool, which revealed a malfunction in the front right ABS sensor. I have since replaced the front right wheel bearing and the ABS sensor; yet, the faults persist. What I Have Verified: • Substituted the front right ABS sensor. • Examined the wiring and connections of the sensor. Utilised a diagnostic tool to rectify the issues, which persistently reoccur. My enquiries: 1. Is it possible that there exists another underlying reason for these issues notwithstanding the sensor replacement? 2. Is it possible that the automated vehicle wash caused harm to other components associated with the ABS or electrical systems? Should I examine additional sensors or the ABS module? 4. Is recalibration of the sensor required after the replacement of an ABS sensor? I appreciate your assistance and guidance in advance!

I have not encountered that problem. We possessed a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4x4, an amazing vehicle, and the same applies. The mice had consumed the cables. It was stationed externally.

Security. I recall seeing Wayne Carini (CCC) inspecting a 1980s Mercedes-Benz saloon and elucidating to the audience that the absence of the passenger door mirror was not a defect in that specific vehicle, as it was an optional feature in the USA, and the individual who commissioned the car did not choose that option.

I had Fords many years ago and primed the gasoline filter by turning the ignition to a certain position. I first believed that pressing the start button would enough. Additionally, I would fill the fuel filter manually, since the under-bonnet filters were much more accessible.

When you click the start button without your foot on the clutch, does it not initiate the pre-start process?

Is it OK for the device to be connected without any application running? If the issue occurs just during or subsequent to the execution of your application, it is likely related to the data being sent. You assert that you are only reading data; nevertheless, the operation of OBD necessitates a data request, indicating that the device is transmitting data. I am unfamiliar with the functionality of Mercedes Me; nonetheless, using any diagnostic services to address other modules may lead to complications if another device is transmitting concurrent queries.

My Venza has around 9,000 kilometres and an overall fuel efficiency of 39 MPG. Approximately 4,000 of the miles consist of vehicle excursions at interstate speeds over 70 MPH. Other significant factors include your geographical location (flatland vs mountainous terrain), climatic conditions (I reside in Michigan, characterised by frigid winters and sweltering summers), and driving behaviour (aggressive acceleration?). I use precise figures for miles driven (odometer readings) and gallons dispensed at the pump. I see that the reported MPG is around 5% higher than the real figure (i.e., around 41 MPG compared to 39 MPG).

The majority of individuals get the 3-VIN licence, which provides full capability for up to three VAG vehicles. The complimentary VCDS software is licensed via the adaptor. The software operates only on Windows.

Consider using an LED device for the dipped/low beam; however, note that the halogen reflector was not built for an LED apparatus. Additionally, Philips seems to manufacture a road-legal H7 LED substitute. Philips Ultinon Pro6000 LED

The Body Control Module (BCM) located under the instrument panel above the driver's footwell directly powers the headlight bulbs. Any garage servicing VAG vehicles should possess diagnostic instruments capable of interpreting fault and error codes from the many control modules in contemporary VAG automobiles. This is the first point of commencement. The vertical alignment of the dipped or low beam might influence the perceived brightness of the beam pattern in front of the vehicle; thus, ensure it is accurately adjusted. A malfunctioning headlight assembly is less probable, however it remains a possibility, particularly if it is equipped with range control and the motor or mechanism has failed.

The Facelift B8 A5 may be equipped with either halogen (PR-8BD) or HID/xenon (PR-8BP) headlamp assemblies; if the discussion is to changing or upgrading the H7 bulb, then halogen assemblies are applicable. Several aspects to verify prior to attempting to "upgrade" the chosen Osram H7 bulbs: Utilise VCDS, OBDeleven, or a comparable tool to scan the vehicle for fault codes in Address 09 (CECM/BCM) that may pertain to the headlamp output voltage. Examine the extensive coding of the CECM/BCM to verify that the headlamp "dipped beam" is functioning at full voltage/intensity; moreover, check the vertical alignment of the low/dipped headlight.

Alright, I will search for the whole headlamp assembly. I have the option to eventually upgrade it to a yellow drs.

Thank you so much, my friend.We would much appreciate any assistance.