WordSmith

You still haven't mentioned the model. Your 'garage' in your profile will be visible below all posts, so there's no need to update it.

Have a look at Partsouq; they typically have fairly detailed exploded views. No longer can you skip entering your VIN.

From what I can recall, you can try stepping out of the vehicle, shutting the door, pressing down on the brake pedal with a piece of wood or similar object, shifting into neutral, and finally pushing the car into the garage. Unlock the door. Repeat the process to remove it once more.

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There is no record of prior fluid changes that I am aware of. Before I shell out €4,000 for a clutch, I'll check if the problem persists after changing the fluid and filter and running a ForScan relearn procedure.

Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Powershift, 2010 model year The gearbox fluid was changed at 117,000 kilometres, and the current mileage is 125,000 kilometres. Every time I shift from second to first gear or during an upshift, I hear clunking and jerking sounds. Light acceleration is accompanied by a metallic noise, resembling vibrating springs, between 1,500 and 2,500 rpm. With the exception of a few slips, the car is reasonably stable on the highway; on the 500 km return from Spain, I had six 2-second slips. The vehicle stutters between 1,000 and 2,500 rpm, as if the computer is desperately trying to find traction in every gear (even manual mode). Are any suggestions out there?

I am grateful. There must be a conclusive test before it is shredded.

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Most likely the final one equipped with the N14 engine. The car is using a lot of oil, around 92,000. Half of the dipstick in 150 miles. The oil has gotten into the spark plugs. All cylinders undergo compression testing at 150 psi. No oil is present in the turbo's intake or boost pipes. Victor Reinz has changed the seals on the valve stems. The intake manifold contains some oil. The PCV valve is an integral part of the rocker top, so I swapped it out. The BGA one, I must admit. Nothing else was available when I needed it. Right now, oil consumption is at an all-time high. I always stay away from BGA components because of the horror stories I've heard. Could it be that it's burning oil from somewhere else, like oil control rings? I want to make sure I get a high-quality cover. Even though it has decent compression. Let me show you my leak down tester. I need conclusive tests with instructions on how to interpret the results before I dismantle the engine.

Consider utilising an injector cleaner additive and executing a smooth running calibration with Xentry prior to substituting the injectors.

It is reassuring to receive that information. It's wonderful that you secured an excellent deal. How is the new family vehicle performing?

According to Martin Brundle, you are: 'a day tardy and a dollar deficient.'

A Kia dealer should look into it, in my opinion.

If you still have trouble, try briefly disconnecting the 12V battery or performing a pin hole reset on the infotainment system.

The car will display your phone's network signal; if the signal is weak, it could be because Kia uses Vodafone to connect to their server and back. Does it operate faster if you drive it to a more open area?

precisely this. sales objectives. In my tenure at dealerships, vehicles were frequently pre-registered and sold at that time. A discount ranging from £2000 to £3000, inclusive of delivery and pre-delivery inspection mileage. Certain vehicles were also registered as loan cars or demonstrators. Why enrolll and incur the expense? Engaging in such actions (once more at that time) would yield the dealership a 'bonus' from the manufacturer, thus incurring a loss of £2-3k per vehicle could result in a £5k per vehicle 'bonus' for that month. Fail to achieve the targets, and all you receive is the profit margin from the sales. In the instance of the Orion you referenced, it is possible for vehicles to arrive directly at the dealership from the factory with varying bumpers during transitional years; for instance, production of the mk4 Escort/Orion 'pre-facelift' models (known as the 88 spec bumper cars in XR3 and RS Turbo communities) might cease on a Wednesday, only for the '90 spec' models to commence on the following Thursday, indicating that the production year alone does not ensure consistency. We acquired a pristine, factory-ordered Escort GTi, which was delivered to the dealership for registration in August 1997. Vehicles from September were equipped with a high-level brake light situated in the rear window. Vehicles from August did not.

One can purchase pristine pre-registered electric vehicles that are two years old and have fewer than 10 miles on the odometer, despite the advertisement potentially indicating several hundred or thousands of miles. Select the appropriate vehicle, and they will have an array of colour options. What is the rationale behind pre-registering a multitude of vehicles on the 29th of the month and subsequently offering substantial discounts just two days later?

😝

petrol or diesel fuel Three-cylinder or four-cylinder engine

I appreciate it once more. A Tongou RCCB has been ordered (and I have already substituted the 32A MCB with a 40A variant) thus everything is satisfactory 🙂

I presently incur charges of 28.952p during daytime hours and 6.993p from 23:00 to 06:00 (SC 62.873p daily). We possess diesel and PHEV petrol vehicles in addition to the EV, resulting in a modest (yet growing) EV mileage. The supplementary "bonus" slots from 05:30 to 11:00 could be advantageous; however, during the essential overnight timeframe, transitioning to "intelligent" charging would result in a loss of one hour and a mere savings of 0.09p/kWh, which is insufficient to warrant ceding control or to validate the expense of a "intelligent" charging unit. If I possessed solar panels and home batteries, the circumstances would change.

I appreciate the responses. Currently, I utilise the car's timer to charge during off-peak hours and am reluctant to relinquish complete charging control to "them" (whoever "them" may be) unless there is a significant cost advantage in kWh, which appears to be lacking at present, or if it becomes compulsory (which is likely in the future). I lack solar panels, yet the idea occasionally crosses my mind due to our unusually expansive south-facing roof, despite having relatively low electric vehicle mileage. The provision is TN-C-S through two aerial conductors. N is likely grounded at the location of the transformer and is certainly grounded at the final pole. Due to the aforementioned reasons, a PEN fault is improbable; however, I have installed an earth rod "just to be certain" as I am uneasy with the concept of a breaker on the earth connection to the vehicle. Upon consideration, I believe it is advisable to substitute the sporadic Type A RCBO with a Type B while maintaining the remainder unchanged. Should I opt to incorporate solar energy, or if a governmental directive (or incentive) arises, I will reconsider. I have just realised that I can install an RCCB instead of an RCBO, as the MCB in the consumer unit offers over-current protection, simplifying the search for a compatible option. One potential option is this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003095164494.html. Are there any additional suggestions? A concluding observation: I noticed that the MCB in the CU is rated at 32A, which sufficed for charging a PHEV, but I now require a replacement of 40A. I have just observed these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009842040152.html, which appear to be a conventional Tongou RCCB featuring a reset mechanism for specific situations. Has anyone present engaged in experimentation with them or comparable items? Revised a second time to indicate that I have discovered this discourse: I'm unable to access external links. Please provide the text you'd like me to paraphrase. My inquiry has been resolved, and it appears that I will be transferring some traditional British currency to AliExpress.

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